Liai 


">.!VA\i^,ff 


!•  /A       -',/  .A 


Q 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive-, 

in  2008  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


m 


Z^'-^'*'^' 


http://www.archive.org/details/constantinopleOOwate 


JVAYNE  S.  VUCINICH 


'^, 


GEISEL  LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA,  SAN  DffGO 

LA  JOLLA.  CALIFORNIA 


i 


j<f<  ^\>^ 


\ai 


pq 


> 


C5 


JBfAYNE  S.  VUCINICH 


Copyright,  i8gj 
By  Estes  and  Lauriat 

All  rights  resi'7-vefl 


Constantinople 

l-v 

Clara  Erskine  Clement 


CONTENTS. 


Chapter  ^^°^ 

I.    Introductory 3 

n.     Constantinople   and    Constantine   the    Great. 

324-337 10 

III.  Valens,  Theodosius  the  Great,  Arcadius,  and 

Theodosius  II.     364-527 26 

IV.  Justinian,     Heraclius,     Constantine    IV.,    Leo 

the  Iconoclast,   and   the  Isaurian  Dynasty. 

527-867 39 

V.     Macedonian  and  Comnenan  Dynasties  —  Decad- 
ence of  Constantinople.     867-1203     ....      56 
VI.     The   Latin   Conquest,   Last    Emperors    of   Con- 
stantinople, AND  ITS  Subjection  by  the  Otto- 
man Turks.     1204-1453 73 

VII.     Mohammed  II.,  Bayezid  II.,  Selim  I.,  and  Sulei- 
man the  Magnificent.     1453-1566 97 

VIII.     Selim   II.   to    Abdul    Mejid  —  Three    Centuries 

OF  Decline.     1566-1861 123 

IX.     Sultans    Abdul    Aziz,    Murad   V.,    and    Abdul 

Hamid  IL     1861-1895 148 

X.     The   Castle  of  the  Seven  Towers  —  The  Old 

Seraglio  and  Other  Palaces 171 

XI.     S.  Sophia  and  the  Ahmkdyeh 197 

XII.     Antiquities  of  Constantinople 216 


iv  CONTENTS. 

Chapter  IPa&e 

XIII.  Shops  and  Bazaars 236 

XIV.  Thk  Valley  of  the  Sweet  Waters.  —  Habits  and 

Customs  of  Turkish  Ladies 246 

XV.     Cemeteries  and  Funeral  Customs 256 

XVI.     Birth,  Circumcision,  and  Marriage  Ceremonies  265 
XVII.     Superstitions,  Dervishes,   Ramadan,  and  Fatal- 
ism         280 

XVIII.    Education  in  Constantinople 294 

Index 303 


©art  f  ir^t* 


CONSTANTINOPLE  BEFORE  THE   CONQUEST 
OF   THE   OTTOMAN   TURKS. 


Behold  Coustantinople  !  sublime,  superb 
Constantinople,  glory  to  creatiou  and  man  ! 
I  had  never  dreamed  of  such  beauty ! 

Edmondo  de  Amicis. 


CONSTANTINOPLK 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCTOEY. 


THE  history  of  no  city  exceeds  that  of  Constantinople 
in  dramatic  interest,  and  no  other  can  boast  of  so 
commanding  a  position,  or  one  so  well  suited  to  the 
splendid  capital  of  a  proud  and  powerful  empire. 

As  Byzantium,  —  its  name  through  more  than  nine  cen- 
turies, —  it  was  one  of  the  most  remote  Greek  colonies, 
surrounded  by  a  barbarous  country,  and  but  narrowly 
separated  from  a  sea  dangerous  to  mariners,  and  fatal  to 
those  who  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  inhabitants  of  its 
coasts,  —  a  sea  which  was  both  a  dread  and  a  temptation 
to  Greek  and  Roman  seamen.  When  Greek  colonists  first 
established  themselves  on  the  borders  of  the  Propontis,  — 
now  Marmora,  —  this  dreaded  sea  was  called  the  "  Axine," 
or  "  Inhospitable  ;  "  and  its  associations  with  the  perilous 
voyage  of  the  Argonautic  fleet,  with  Jason,  Medea,  and 
the  Golden  Fleece,  inspired  a  terror  of  it  which  yielded 
l)ut  slowly  before  the  experiences  of  those  who  ventured 
upon  its  waters  and  returned  in  safety.  But  at  length 
it  so  far  vindicated  itself  as  to  be  rechristened ;  and 
the  "Euxine,"  or  "Hospitable,"  lost  its  deadly  terrors, 
while  retaining  enough  of  its  peculiar  characteristics  to 
justify  the  words  of  Lord  Byron,  so  frequently  recalled 


4  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

by  those  who  experience  the  discomforts  of  its  chopping 
currents.  * 

Then,  as  now,  the  waters  of  this  sea  flowed  rapidly 
through  the  narrow  Bosphorns,  and  rushing  on  through 
the  Sea  of  Marmora,  the  Dardanelles,  and  the  yEgcan  Sea, 
were  mingled  with  those  of  the  greater  Mediterranean. 
The  steep  and  wooded  banks  of  the  Bosphorus,  from  the 
Cyanean  rocks  which  guarded  the  entrance  to  the  Euxine, 
even  to  the  port  of  Byzantium  itself,  were  studded  with 
temples  and  altars,  where  prayers  and  sacrifices  were 
offered  to  the  gods,  in  the  hope  of  securing  their  pro- 
tection from  the  dangers  of  these  untoward  waters. 

Along  the  sixteen  winding  miles  of  these  lonely  straits, 
tradition  has  located  the  scenes  once  haunted  by  the 
mythical  beings  who  can  no  longer  be  discerned,  and  the 
present  castles  of  Europe  and  Asia  stand  upon  the  founda- 
tions of  the  temples  of  Scrapis  and  Jupiter  Urius,  at  the 
narrowest  part  of  the  channel,  where  Darius  connected 
the  continents  by  a  bridge  of  boats,  about  500  b.  c. 

The  wonderful  beauty  of  the  site  of  Byzantium  was  fully 
equalled,  perhaps  even  surpassed,  by  its  political  and 
commercial  advantages.  Easily  defended  on  its  land 
borders,  its  position  on  the  sea  afforded  the  assurance  of 
vast  wealth  and  prosperity.  The  duties  levied  on  corn 
ships  brought  a  large  revenue  to  the  Byzantines,  and  the 
fisheries  were  a  prolific  source  of  wealth ;  for  the  fish, 
which,  coming  from  the  Euxine,  filled  the  waters  of  the 
Bosphorus,  inclined  to  the  European  shore,  and  furnished 
a  living  to  a  multitude  of  fishermen,  as  well  as  food  to 
rich  and  poor  alike. 

The  splendid  harbour,  almost  tideless,  and  so  deep  that 
merchandise  could  be  landed  without  small  boats,  was 
called  the  Golden   Horn,   at  a  very  early  date.     Gibbon 

1  "  Tliere  's  not  a  sea  the  passenger  e'er  pukes  in 

Turns  up  more  dangerous  breakers  than  the  Euxine." 


INTRODUCTORY.  5 

says  that  the  largest  vessels  may  rest  their  prows  against 
the  houses  while  their  sterns  are  floating  in  the  water. 
The  word  "golden  "  was  scarcely  adequate  to  indicate  the 
endless  tide  of  riches  which,  flowing  from  the  distant 
countries  of  the  world,  were  gathered  in  the  capacious 
Byzantine  port,  the  peculiar  position  of  which  afforded 
security  to  enormous  merchant  fleets. 

About  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  southwest, 
the  Hellespont,  or  Straits  of  the  Dardanelles,  separated 
the  Sea  of  Marmora  from  the  ^gean,  and  formed  the 
southern  gate  to  Byzantium,  as  the  Bosphorus  made  the 
northern.  By  means  of  enormous  chains,  these  avenues 
were  easily  closed  to  enemies  or  opened  to  friends ;  and  so 
advantageous  was  the  position  of  this  capital,  that  when 
both  these  gates  were  shut,  every  necessity  and  many 
luxuries  were  produced  within  the  enclosure,  in  a  supply 
so  generous  as  to  satisfy  its  vast  population.  The  neigh- 
bouring country,  which  still,  even  under  the  taxes  and 
oppression  of  the  present  rule,  is  I'ich  in  the  plentiful 
harvests  of  its  vineyards  and  gardens,  afforded  in  the 
ancient  days  many  table  luxuries,  and  even  wines  so 
exquisite  as  to  be  world-famous,  — wines  of  which  Ulysses 
spoke  with  rapture. 

In  short,  Byzantium,  on  her  seven  hills,  overlooking 
the  coasts  of  Europe  and  Asia,  with  a  temperate  climate, 
a  productive  soil,  and  vast  commercial  resources,  was  a 
city  to  be  envied  and  coveted  by  all  the  rulers  of  the 
earth. 

Little  is  known  of  its  earliest  history,  but  in  the  fifth 
century  b.  c.  it  was  a  powerful  city,  to  which  many 
neighbouring  peoples  were  subject.  Continued  peace  and 
prosperity,  however,  were  not  to  be  enjoyed  in  those  days 
of  endless  warfare;  and  Byzantium  was,  during  the  suc- 
ceeding centuries,  the  scene  of  sieges,  conflagrations,  and 
all  the  horrors  of  a  barbarous  age.       Persians,  Macedo- 


6  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

nians,  Athenians,  Thracians,  Gauls,  and  Romans  contended 
for  its  possession;  and  even  when  no  pronounced  war  was 
in  progress,  this  capital  suffered  severely  from  the  depre- 
dations of  the  surrounding  barbarians.  Its  crops  were 
stolen  on  the  eve  of  the  harvest,  and  all  possible  injuries 
and  insults  to  its  people  and  their  rulers  were  perpetrated 
again  and  again. 

Byzantium  was  necessarily  more  or  less  involved  in  the 
great  Roman  wars  which  preceded  the  Christian  era;  and 
in  148  B.  c.  she  became  an  ally  of  Rome,  as  a  confederate 
state,  retaining  its  liberty.  The  history  of  Rome,  and 
especially  some  speeches  of  its  greatest  generals  and 
orators,  prove  that  Byzantium  was  faithful  to  this  alliance, 
and  under  these  conditions  enjoyed  great  prosperity. 

At  this  time  it  was  especially  rich  in  works  of  art, 
and  in  spite  of  the  sieges  and  attacks  it  had  sustained, 
had  shown  a  marvellous  power  of  recuperation,  and 
had  succeeded  in  religiously  guarding  its  statues  and 
other  artistic  treasures  from  injury.  It  was  attractive 
to  all  travellers,  and  retained  the  characteristics  of  a 
Greek  city,  affording  great  advantages  to  the  student  of 
archaeology,  while  its  luxurious  life  was  fascinating  to  the 
mere  pleasure-seeker. 

In  70  A.  D.  Byzantium  was  a  Roman  province ;  but  this 
change  had  made  no  essential  difference  in  its  condi- 
tion, and  little  is  known  of  it  until  more  than  a  cen- 
tury later,  when  Septimius  Severus  was  contending  with 
Pescennius  Niger  for  his  position  as  Roman  emperor  in 
the  East.  Byzantium  declared  herself  in  favor  of  the 
Syrian  general,  and  doubtless  had  the  ambition  to  become 
the  capital  of  a  vast  Eastern  Empire.  Its  fortifications 
were  famous  throughout  the  world.  All  the  scientific 
means  of  defence  then  known  were  at  its  command.  Its 
engines  were  said  to  be  sufficient  to  lift  ships  from  the 
water;  and  its  soldiers  may  well  have  been  inspired  with 


INTRODUCTORY.  7 

imdoubting  courage  by  the  presence  of  their  engineer, 
Priscus,  who  proved  liimself  so  great  a  master  of  his  pro- 
fession as  to  command  the  respect  of  Severus,  into  whose 
service  he  later  entered. 

Great  as  was  the  reliance  to  be  placed  on  their  splendid 
fortifications  and  engineering  skill,  the  Byzantines  had 
a  second  invaluable  support  in  their  numerous  vessels, 
manned  by  skilful,  brave,  and  loyal  seamen. 

Their  large  ships,  with  dangerous  beaks,  were  greatly 
dreaded  by  the  navies  of  other  countries,  especially  when 
in  their  own  waters,  where  their  pilots  knew  every  advan- 
tage that  could  be  taken,  and  where  the  narrow  straits, 
through  which  an  enemy  must  pass,  were  easily  guarded 
against  fleets  that  would  be  difficult  to  overcome  when  in 
more  open  seas.  They  also  had  divers  so  skilful  that  they 
even  attached  ropes  to  the  Roman  vessels  under  water, 
and  hauled  them  into  the  Byzantine  harbor  as  prizes  of 
war. 

The  siege  was  sustained  three  years,  which  proves  that 
however  pleasure-loving  the  Byzantines  were  in  times  of 
peace,  their  courage  and  loyalty  were  marvellous  when 
their  city  was  in  danger.  Their  vessels  were  repaired 
with  timbers  from  their  houses,  and  the  women  gave  their 
hair  to  be  worked  into  ropes.  Stones  wrenched  from 
splendid  edifices,  and  statues  of  bronze,  were  hurled  from 
the  walls  on  the  heads  of  the  besiegers.  So  great  were 
the  stores  within  the  capital  at  the  beginning  of  the  siege 
that  no  need  of  food  was  felt  for  a  long  time ;  but  when 
it  came,  there  were  no  possible  means  of  relief.  Severus 
liad  conquered  the  neighl)ouring  tribes,  and  could  easily 
feed  his  troops.  If  he  could  overcome  the  Byzantines  on 
the  sea,  their  city  would  be  his,  and  without  it  he  could 
not  establish  his  power  in  the  East. 

At  length,  after  enduring  the  sufferings  of  famine  to 
such  an  extent  that  the  weaker  became  food  for  the  strong, 


8  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

a  company  of  Byzantines  took  advantage  of  a  frightful 
storm  to  take  to  their  vessels,  hoping,  in  the  terrible  con- 
dition of  the  sea,  to  be  able  to  pass  the  Roman  galleys. 
But  they  miscalculated  their  chances,  and  in  the  over- 
crowded condition  of  their  boats  were  at  an  immense  dis- 
advantage. The  Romans  attacked  them  furiously,  and 
instead  of  fighting  a  fair  battle,  they  simply  pushed  the 
Byzantines  into  the  sea  to  drown.  Many  of  the  horrors 
of  this  engagement  were  witnessed  from  the  walls  of  the 
city.  The  people  beheld  the  corpses  of  their  friends  and 
neighbours  floating  back  to  their  home ;  and  the  failure  of 
this  bold  attempt  to  escape  from  the  famine  within,  and 
the  enemy  without  their  walls,  proved  to  the  survivors 
that  the  time  for  surrender  had  come. 

Severus  proved  a  cruel  conqueror,  and  permitted  the 
common  people  alone  to  live.  The  soldiers  and  the  higher 
classes  were  put  to  death.  The  wealth  of  Byzantium  was 
confiscated ;  the  city  and  the  territory  it  controlled  were 
given  to  the  city  of  Perinthus.  In  the  destruction  of 
the  walls,  the  Romans  displayed  a  foolish  love  of  revenge 
and  great  lack  of  wisdom;  for  not  only  was  this  the  sever- 
est trial  to  the  Byzantines,  but  it  permitted  the  Asiatic 
barbarians  to  rush  in  and  plunder,  where  the  magnifi- 
cent fortifications  had  before  rendered  their  attacks 
fruitless. 

The  struggles  of  Byzantium  during  a  long  period  after 
this  conquest  by  Severus,  a.  d.  196,  are  too  involved  for 
description  here.  They  make  a  harrowing  story  of  the 
alternate  successes  and  cruelties  of  the  Romans  and  bar- 
barians. Although  the  walls  were  rebuilt,  there  were 
times  when  the  Byzantines  trembled  lest  they  should 
become  the  slaves  of  the  Goths,  and  they  willingly  aided 
the  Emperor  Claudius  11.  in  his  great  battle  at  Naissus, 
A.  D.  269.  Not  until  a.  d.  324,  when  Constantino,  the 
sole  ruler  of  the  Roman  Empire,  besieged  the  city,  was 


INTRODUCTORY.  9 

there  a  strong  and  enduring  government  at  Byzantium. 
It  was  then  made  the  capital  of  the  civilized  world,  and 
the  chief  seat  of  the  Christian  religion,  which  was  hence- 
forth to  be  the  cult  of  the  multitudes  subject  to  Rome. 
The  name  of  the  capital  was  changed  to  Constantinople; 
and  the  portion  of  its  history  which  belongs  to  that  of  the 
Christian  world  now  began. 


CHAPTER  II. 

CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT. 
324-337. 

NO  city  of  the  world  is  entered  by  so  ideal  a  portal  aa 
that  through  which  one  reaches  Constantinople 
from  the  Mediterranean.  Traversing  the  vEgean  Sea, 
and  passing  through  the  Hellespont  into  the  Sea  of 
Marmora,  this  glorious  capital  at  length  is  seen  rising 
from  the  waters,  —  an  entrancing  vision,  with  its  rich 
colouring,  its  seven  hills  crowned  with  glistening  minarets 
and  domes,  its  cypresses,  firs,  and  pines,  uniting  with  its 
shattered  walls  and  buttresses  to  present  a  panorama 
which  is  unequalled  in  beauty  and  interest. 

Constantinople  sits  "at  the  meeting  of  two  seas  and 
two  continents,  like  a  diamond  between  sapphires  and 
emeralds."  ^  From  its  heights  one  looks  upon  the  storied 
shores  that  almost  meet  at  its  feet,  and  wonders  that  the 
air  is  not  filled  with  the  ghosts  of  heroes  who  here 
achieved  the  fame  of  which  poets  in  all  time  delight  to 
sing. 

Coming  hither,  we  have  passed  the  plains  of  Troy,  and 
sailed  above  the  watery  grave  of  that  fair  Theban  maid 
whose  enduring  memorial  is  in  the  name  these  straits 
still  bear;  and  Abydos  recalls  that  other  youth,  struggling 

"  on  Helle's  wave 
When  Love,  who  sent,  forgot  to  save 
The  young,  the  beautiful,  the  brave." 

1  Von  Hammer. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT.   11 

The  Mysian  Olympus,  "  parliamental  seat  of  heavenly 
powers,"  still  towers  aloft,  wearing  its  veil  of  clouds  as  if 
in  mourning  for  the  millions  that  have  died  within  its 
sight;  while  the  numberless  exquisite  islands  scattered 
over  these  historic  seas  are  all  associated  with  the  classic 
past,  and  so  recall  its  history,  its  legends,  and  its  poetry 
that  for  the  time  we  quite  forget  that  we  are  at  the  end  of 
the  nineteenth  century,  and  almost  look  for  the  fleet  of 
the  Argonauts  to  sail  along  beside  us. 

Gray  walls,  in  triple  ranks,  come  into  view.  Among 
their  stones  are  there  not  relics  of  the  walls  of  Constan- 
tine  and  Theodosius  ?  Their  towers  and  battlements  are 
draped  with  vines  and  overgrown  by  friendly  shrubs, 
which  partly  hide  the  ghastly  rents  made  by  enemies 
and  widened  by  Time,  and  their  luxurious  growth  con- 
tributes the  single  element  of  life  and  beauty  in  this  scene 
of  desolation. 

Aj)proaching  the  Castle  of  the  Seven  Towers,  we  have 
Stamboul  on  our  left ;  the  city  of  Constantine,  stretching 
four  miles  along  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  and  rising  to  the 
crest  of  its  lofty  hills  on  the  west,  where  hundreds  of 
minarets,  domes,  and  towers  vie  with  each  other  in  lift- 
ing themselves  to  the  blue  heavens  above.  It  is  our  first 
sight  of  a  part  of  that  whole  which,  by  common  consent, 
is  granted  to  be  the  most  beautiful  spot  in  the  Avorld,  —  a 
sight  which  makes  an  epoch  in  one's  existence,  and 
affords  a  standard  for  natural  beauty  that  must  ever 
remain  unchanged. 

The  eye  follows  the  line  of  quaint  old  structures  close 
to  the  sea  until,  rounding  Seraglio  Point,  the  entrance  to 
the  Bosphorus  spreads  out  before  us,  and  the  Golden  Horn 
discloses  a  surprising  vista.  It  is  full  of  life.  Hundreds 
of  caiques  flit  like  insects  here  and  there,  —  out  and  in 
among  the  huge  war-ships  which  carry  the  red  flag  with 
the    crescent;   darting  swiftly   between   the   freight   and 


12  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

passenger  steamers  of  all  nations,  the  corn  ships  of 
Russia,  the  picturesque  feluccas  of  the  Greek,  and  scores 
of  curiously  rigged  boats,  for  which  I  know  no  names. 

On  each  side  rises  a  city, —  Stamboul  to  the  south,  Ga- 
lata  to  the  north,  with  Pera  still  higher  as  its  background. 
On  the  one  hand,  above  the  forest  of  masts,  sails,  and 
flags,  rise  mosques  and  towers,  pinnacles  and  minarets, 
with  plume-like  trees  and  shrubs  thrusting  themselves  out 
in  every  possible  space ;  while  on  the  other,  Galata  and 
Tophane  extend  along  the  shore,  with  the  bustle  of  com- 
merce and  trade  pervading  the  very  air;  above  these  is 
Pera,  with  its  mansions,  gardens,  cemeteries,  and  cypress 
groves;  and  still  beyond  are  the  suburban  villas  and 
gardens  which  overlook  the  Bosphorus. 

Upon  the  heights  of  Stamboul  stand  gigantic  mosques, 
with  their  ivory-like  minarets,  which  catch  the  colours 
from  the  setting  sun,  and  glow  with  gold  and  scarlet,  in 
vivid  contrast  to  the  groves  of  cypress-trees  which  are 
frequently  in  long  processional  lines  from  the  summits  to 
the  feet  of  these  broad  hills.  Saint  Sophia,  with  four 
white  minarets,  and  her  famous  dome  above  her  white 
and  rose-coloured  walls ;  Sultan  Ahmed,  from  which  rise 
six  lance-like  towers;  the  ten-domed  Soliman  the  Great; 
Mohammed  11. ,  built  above  the  ruins  of  the  church  of  the 
Holy  Apostles,  the  burial-place  of  the  Christian  Emperors; 
the  mosque  of  Selim;  the  Seraglio  of  Tekyr,  and  above 
all,  the  Tower  of  the  Seraskiarate,  —  are  the  more  promi- 
nent features  of  Stamboul.  Surrounding  these  is  a  multi- 
tude of  smaller  mosques,  tombs,  seraglios,  kiosks,  and 
edifices  of  many  kinds,  in  a  variety  of  colours ;  and  every- 
where, from  the  heights  to  the  sea,  where  a  space  ex- 
ists, some  growing  vine  or  shrub  or  tree  pushes  itself 
out,  and  by  its  beauty  and  vigorous  growth  conceals  the 
glaring  defects  which  would  otherwise  mar  this  fasci- 
nating panorama. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT-   13 

On  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Bosphorus,  Scutari  and 
Kadi-Kioi  are  seen,  with  their  thousands  of  gayly  tinted 
houses  amidst  the  most  verdant  gardens;  and  these  are 
overtopped  by  scores  of  mosques  of  dazzling  whiteness, 
while  the  cypress  groves  of  the  extensive  Turkish  and 
British  cemeteries  afford  a  rich  contrast  to  the  white 
barracks,  the  gay  villages,  and  the  domes  and  minarets 
which  climb  the  mountain  at  the  back,  and  are  doubled  in 
the  blue  waters  of  the  straits. 

The  Bosphorus  winds  northward  to  the  Black  Sea 
between  rows  of  palaces,  cafes,  gardens,  and  villages. 
Nature  has  here  showered  her  beauties  in  a  profusion  that 
cannot  be  surpassed.  The  exquisitely  softened  azure  sky 
is  reflected  in  the  clearest  and  bluest  of  seas.  The  beauti- 
ful contour  of  the  shores ;  the  grace  with  which  the 
Golden  Horn  curves  into  the  Sweet  Waters;  the  broad 
sweep  of  the  Bosphorus;  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  with  the 
bold,  rocky  islands  on  its  bosom;  the  gently  receding 
heights  beyond  Scutari ;  and  the  grand  Olympus,  which 
at  times  reveals  its  blushing  snows  beneath  the  rising  sun, 
—  unite  to  make  a  picture  unrivalled  in  its  loveliness. 

Each  time  that  I  have  visited  these  scenes,  the  Bosphorus 
has  cast  a  spell  on  me.  Its  varying  aspects  beneath  the 
brilliancy  of  a  sunny  morning,  or  the  softer  illumination 
of  a  moonlit  night,  impart  to  it  a  beauty  and  witchery 
that  cannot  be  described.  Its  keynote  is  curiously  sad, 
with  a  sadness  that  is  a  pleasure,  — a  strange,  weird  sen- 
sation, of  which  one  docs  not  seek  to  know  the  cause,  lest 
understanding  it  should  do  its  matter-of-fact  work  and 
dispel  the  charm.  In  it  are  mingled,  together  with  other 
emotions,  an  unalloyed  delight  in  the  exquisite  scene, 
and  a  keen  regret  that  the  heroism,  romance,  and  poetry 
that  have  existed  here  are  now  foimd  but  in  the  printed 
page;  a  blending  of  sorrow  and  disgust  at  the  present 
degradation  and  decay,   with   the  hope  that   these  must 


14  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

pass  away,  and  civilization  and  art  resume  their  sw 
in  this 

"  land  of  tlie  cedar  and  vine 
Where  the  flowers  ever  blossom,  the  beams  ever  shine  ; 
Where  the  light  wings  of  Zephyr,  oppressed  with  perfume, 
Wax  faint  in  the  gardens  of  Gul  in  her  bloom ; 
Where  tlie  citron  and  olive  are  fairest  of  fruit, 
And  the  voice  of  the  nightingale  never  is  mute  ; 
Where  the  tints  of  the  earth  and  the  hues  of  the  sky, 
In  colour  thougii  varied,  in  beauty  may  vie, 
And  the  purple  of  ocean  is  deepest  in  dye  ; 
Where  the  virgins  are  soft  as  tiie  roses  they  twine, 
And  all  save  the  spirit  of  man  is  divine."  ^ 

Two  characteristics  of  Constantinople  are  most  impre 
sive  to  the  stranger,  and  doubtless  have  an  unconscio 
effect,  even  when  no  longer  novel.  The  first  is  the  fe( 
ing  that  the  sea  is  everywhere.  It  borders  Stamboul 
two  sides,  and  separates  it  from  Galata  and  Pera,  whi 
it  again  parts  from  Scutari ;  and  yet  these  three  esse 
tially  make  one  city,  —  Constantinople. 

The  second  is  the  shrill  call  to  prayer  by  the  muezzi 
which  peals  out  five  times  each  day  from  the  galleries 
the  minarets,  piercing  the  busy  hum  of  the  crowd  belc 
and  making  itself  heard   above  all  else.     It  is  a  mc 
impressive  thought  that  from  every  Mohammedan  minar 
in  Asia,  Africa,  and  Europe,  at  these  stated  hours,  tli 
cry  goes  forth.     The  muezzin  steps  out  upon  the  terrac 
and  after  a  moment  of  silence  covers  his  ears  with  h 
hands,  raises  his  eyes  to  the  sky  above  him,  and  slow 
chants  his  call,  which  may  be  thus  translated:  "God 
great!     There  is  but  one  God!     Mahomet  is  the  proph 
of   God  !    Come  to  prayer !   Come  and  be  saved  !    God 
great !     God  is  one  alone !     Come  to  prayer !  "     This 
repeated  to  each  point  of  the  compass ;  and  as  the  voi' 
dies  away  from  one  minaret,  others  are  heard,  who  ha^ 

1  Lord  Byron. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT.   15 

not  yet  completed  the  call,  and  one  by  one,  gradually, 
these  voices  of  the  air  are  stilled.  Thus  the  name  of 
"Allah  "  rings  ever  in  one's  ears,  and  the  Mohammedan 
god  cannot  be  forgotten,  as  the  Christian  Deity  too  often  is. 

It  is  a  matter  for  congratulation  to  Europeans  that  their 
quarter  is  in  Pera,  with  its  commonplace  aspect,  since 
liere  they  have  the  exquisite  view  of  the  Golden  Horn  and 
the  Bosphorus,  the  bridge,  the  Tower  of  Galata,  and  the 
heights  of  Stamboul  ever  spread  out  before  them.  But 
when  the  remembrance  of  the  great  events  that  have  here 
had  place  rushes  over  one,  he  longs  to  get  away  from  this 
uninspiring  Pera,  and  from  the  hum  and  stir  of  that 
busiest  of  marts,  Stamboul,  into  some  stilly  spot  where 
the  atmosphere  of  Byzantium  faintly  lingers,  and  the 
present  poison  in  the  air  has  not  utterly  dispelled  the 
3pirit  of  the  old,  old  days,  — a  spot  to  which  the  ghosts  of 
those  who  here  lived  from  the  fourth  to  the  fifteenth 
century  might  willingly  come  to  recall  the  scenes  in  which 
IS  men  they  acted  their  parts. 

Perhaps  no  more  difficult  task  could  l)e  presented  to  the 
imagination  than  that  of  reconstructing  Byzantium  as 
it  existed  at  the  height  of  its  glory,  before  the  Latin 
conquest.  For  while  we  have  a  vast  store  of  material 
with  which  to  build  our  imaginary  city,  and  voluminous 
word  pictures  of  its  appearance  and  its  life,  they  present 
1  world  so  different  from  any  that  wc  know,  and  above 
\\\,  so  unlike  the  Istamboul  of  the  Turk,  that  the  attempt 
is  most  unpromising. 

No  single  spot  in  this  great  city  is  so  associated  with 
its  entire  history  as  is  Seraglio  Point.  Here  for  cen- 
turies has  been  a  palace,  the  home  of  its  rulers,  beside 
the  Temple  of  the  Divine  Wisdom,  Saint  Sophia,  in  which 
30  many  of  the  wonderful  pageants,  tragedies,  and  come- 
dies (!)  of  Constantinople  have  had  place.  This  promontory 
is  not  snrpnssf'd  in  b'';iiity  by  nny  spot  on  the  entire  coast 


16  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

of  Europe.  It  was  the  Acropolis  of  Byzantium,  and  the 
centre  of  the  commerce  of  its  time;  while  from  it  the  great 
highways  of  Eastern  Europe  took  their  course,  distribut- 
ing the  treasures  of  all  lands,  brought  hither  on  the  seas 
which  mingle  their  waters  at  its  feet. 

We  shall  not  here  recount  its  earliest  history,  and  the 
events  with  which  the  names  of  Pausanias,  Cimon, 
Alcibiades,  Lysander,  Thrasybulus,  Epaminondas,  Philip, 
and  many  others  are  associated.  We  will  but  note  that 
while  the  latter  general  was  besieging  Byzantium,  and  on 
a  murky  night  was  about  to  seize  the  town,  a  dazzling 
light,  appearing  in  the  heavens,  revealed  their  danger  to 
its  inhabitants.  The  miracle  was  doubly  commemorated, 
—  by  a  statue  to  torch-bearing  Hecate,  and  by  the  crescent 
found  on  ancient  Byzantine  coins,  which  is  to  this  day 
the  device  of  Constantinople,  and  of  its  Mohammedan 
conquerors,  wherever  their  symbol  is  seen. 

As  we  have  said,  the  story  of  Byzantium  is  one  of  con- 
stant warfare ;  and  yet,  so  prosperous  were  its  people  that 
in  its  rare  seasons  of  peace  the  life  of  its  higher  classes 
was  most  luxurious.  Its  baths  and  other  public  buildings 
were  magnificent,  and  its  Hippodrome  was  surrounded  by 
beautiful  porticoes  and  various  edifices,  in  which  the 
people  passed  their  days,  eating  and  drinking,  and  fitting 
themselves  to  become  the  prey  of  a  vigorous  and  ambitious 
soldier,  like  Constantino  the  Great. 

Remembering  the  great  strategic  and  commercial  advan- 
tages of  this  site,  we  at  once  perceive  the  reasons  that  led 
Constantine  to  found  his  Eastern  seat  of  empire  here;  for 
before  his  time  the  riches  of  North  and  South  —  the  timber 
and  grains  from  the  Euxine,  the  gems  of  Ceylon,  the 
treasures  of  India,  and  the  maize  of  Egypt  —  all  met  in 
the  capacious  port  of  Byzantium  by  a  system  of  commer- 
cial circulation,  as  naturally  as  the  blood  of  the  human 
system  passes  through  the  heart. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT.   17 

Constantine  desired  to  be  regarded  as  the  founder  rather 
than  the  conqueror  of  the  city,  and,  following  the  example 
of  other  founders,  he  declared  himself  directed  bv  a 
heavenly  vision  which  revealed  to  him  the  will  of  God, 
which  he  promptly  and  gladly  fulfilled. 

Although  some  customary  Pagan  rites  were  omitted,  the 
emperor  made  the  ceremony  of  the  founding  of  the  city 
sufficiently  impressive.  He  is  said  to  have  borne  a  golden 
image  of  the  goddess  of  Fortune  in  his  hand,  when,  with 
uplifted  lance,  and  followed  by  a  solemn  procession,  he 
walked  over  the  boundaries  of  his  New  Rome.  When  the 
astonishing  circumference  which  he  thus  indicated  was 
remarked,  he  replied,  "I  shall  still  advance  until  He,  the 
invisible  guide  who  marches  before  me,  thinks  it  proper 
to  stop." 

Thus  the  new  city  was  much  larger  than  the  old,  and 
included  five  of  the  Seven  Hills,  which  seem  a  part  of  an 
harmonious  whole,  and  were  all  taken  into  the  limits  of 
the  capital  a  little  more  than  a  century  after  the  death  of 
Constantine;  and  in  the  time  of  Justinian,  at  the  end 
of  the  scvinitli  century,  the  circumference  of  the  city  was 
about  fourteen  Roman  miles. 

The  vast  numbers  of  men  employed  to  carry  out  the 
dosigns  of  the  emperor,  and  the  marvellous  sums  expended 
on  his  projects,  are  almost  ])eyond  comprehension.  That 
his  work  was  well  done  may  be  seen  by  the  existing 
remnants  of  his  walls  between  the  Seven  Towers  and  the 
Golden  Horn.  Near  at  hand  were  the  splendid  forests  of 
the  Euxine  and  the  rich  quarries  of  Proconnesus.  The 
famous  cities  of  Greece  and  Asia  were  robbed  of  their 
treasures  to  satisfy  the  greed  of  Constantine.  The  works 
of  the  immortal  Greeks,  of  Phidias  and  Lysippus,  were 
torn  from  tlie  places  for  which  they  were  designed ;  and 
neither  the  national  pride  of  the  Greeks  in  the  trophies  of 
tlieir    victories,    nor   their   profound    veneration   for   the 

2 


18  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

statues  of  their  deities,  sages,  and  heroes,  deterred  the 
l)roud  Roman  from  adding  them  to  the  splendours  of  the 
city  which  he  had  called  by  his  own  name.  The  historian 
Cedrenus  called  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  souls 
(spirit)  of  the  men  whose  statues  were  thus  transplanted 
were  utterly  wanting  in  their  new  surroundings. 

On  the  second  hill,  where  during  the  siege  the  tent  of 
Constantine  had  been  placed,  the  chief  Forum  was  con- 
structed, in  the  form  of  an  enormous  ellipse,  which  may 
still  be  traced.  On  opposite  sides  were  entrances  beneath 
triumphal  arches,  and  it  was  enclosed  by  porticoes,  filled 
with  statues  of  gods  and  heroes,  carved  in  marbles  and 
moulded  in  brass.  The  number  of  these  statues  was 
constantly  increased  until,  in  the  twelfth  century,  Nicetas 
assures  us  that  they  were  more  numerous  than  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  modern  city. 

In  the  centre  stood  a  magnificent  column,  the  remnant 
of  which  is  now  known  as  the  "burnt  pillar."  It  was 
originally  composed  of  ten  pieces  of  porphyry,  bound 
together  by  bands  of  copper.  Each  block  of  porphyry  was 
ten  feet  high  and  eleven  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  column 
thus  composed  was  mounted  on  a  pedestal  of  white  marble, 
twenty  feet  high,  beneath  which  it  was  said  that  the 
Palladium  was  buried.  On  the  top  of  this  column  was  a 
colossal  bronze  statue  of  Apollo,  believed  to  have  been 
the  work  of  Phidias.  The  god,  crowned  with  glittering 
rays,  held  a  globe  in  one  hand  and  a  sceptre  in  the  other. 
This  statue  w^as  called  by  the  name  of  the  emperor;  but 
Von  Hammer  speaks  of  the  shamelessness  of  Constantine, 
and  says  that  he  placed  his  own  statue  on  the  column, 
with  the  symbols  of  both  Apollo  and  Christ,  substituting 
the  nails  of  the  cross  for  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Julian  and 
Theodosius,  following  the  example  of  Constantine,  each 
placed  his  statue  on  this  famous  column.  In  1012  the 
statue    was    injured   by  an   earthquake,   and   fell   in  the 


liiKM   Ciii.i.MN  oi'  Constant  INK 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINR  THE  GREAT.   19 

reign  of  Alexius  Comuenus,  when  it  was  replaced  by 
the  cross. 

The  Hippodrome,  or  Circus,  of  this  Forum  was  richly 
ornamented  with  statues  and  obelisks.  A  curious  frag- 
ment still  remains.  It  is  a  pillar  of  brass  formed  of  the 
twisted  bodies  of  three  serpents,  with  the  tails  down- 
wards. The  heads  originally  upheld  the  golden  tripod 
which  the  victorious  Greeks  had  consecrated  in  the 
Temple  of  Delphi,  after  the  defeat  of  Xerxes.  A  picture 
made  in  1675  shows  the  three  heads,  which  are  now  gone. 
One  of  them  was  struck  off  with  the  iron  mace  or  battle- 
axe  of  Mohammed  the  Conqueror,  in  order  to  display  his 
unusual  strength.  Few  antiquities  can  be  so  clearly  iden- 
tified as  is  this  column  of  the  serpents,  now  more  than 
fourteen  centuries  old. 

From  the  throne  of  the  Hippodrome  the  emperor  de- 
scended a  winding  staircase  to  his  palace,  situated  on 
the  Propontis  between  the  Hippodrome  and  the  church  of 
S.  Sophia.  The  palace  was  surrounded  by  gardens,  por- 
ticoes, and  courts,  one  of  which,  the  Augusteum,  was 
between  the  principal  front  of  the  palace  and  the  church 
of  the  Divine  Wisdom. 

A  great  variety  of  edifices,  such  as  would  add  to  the 
splendour  of  the  new  capital,  were  rapidly  constructed, 
and  the  magnificence  of  its  baths,  with  their  marbles, 
statues,  and  columns  was  unequalled;  while  theatres, 
palaces,  porticoes,  aqueducts,  fountains,  senate  halls, 
churches,  and  splendid  private  houses,  as  well  as  the 
homes  of  the  poorer  people,  arose  as  if  by  magic. 

In  order  to  populate  his  New  Rome,  the  emperor  invited 
liither  the  prominent  men  of  the  older  capital  and  of  the 
Eastern  provinces  of  the  empire.  Those  who  deserted 
Rome  for  the  new  capital  were  not  men  of  the  best  fibre ; 
and  Constantine  paid  a  premium  on  their  coming  l)y  con- 
ferring country  estates  on  them,  with  the  condition  that 


20  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

they  should  also  maintain  city  houses.  The  lower  classes 
were  led  by  the  emperor's  bounty,  according  to  tradition; 
and  the  whole  tendency  of  life  under  the  new  order  of 
things  was  to  produce  a  population  of  idle  pleasure- 
seekers,  void  of  patriotism  or  any  noble  sentiment;  and 
soon  it  was  not  unusual  for  men  to  maim  themselves 
rather  than  fight  the  battles  of  their  country,  which  office 
was  left  to  hired  Goths  and  Germans.  The  indolent  and 
luxurious  life  of  Constantinople  proved  most  attractive; 
and  in  less  than  a  century  its  riches,  splendour,  and  popu- 
lation rivalled  those  of  Rome  itself,  and  although  the 
Western  capital  was  nominally  supreme,  the  new  city  was 
independent  of  all  dictation  or  restraint. 

The  absolute  date  of  the  dedication  of  Constantinople  is 
a  matter  of  doubt,  as  the  best  authorities  disagree ;  but  all 
represent  the  occasion  as  of  great  interest  and  splendour, 
and  one  of  its  ceremonies  was  annually  repeated  on  the 
birthday  of  the  city.  The  gilded  statue  of  Constantine, 
bearing  in  its  right  hand  an  image  of  the  genius  of  the 
capital,  was  mounted  on  a  triumphal  car,  and  drawn 
around  the  Hippodrome  in  the  midst  of  a  procession  of 
richly  dressed  guards,  carrying  white  tapers  in  their 
hands.  When  opposite  the  throne,  the  reigning  monarch 
arose,  and  reverently  adored  this  representation  of  the 
founder  of  the  city. 

Although  this  ceremony  was  long  since  abandoned,  the 
fame  of  Constantine  the  Great  survives  in  the  name  of 
his  city;  for  though  its  conquerors  call  it  Istamboul, 
the  European  peoples,  the  Greeks  of  to-day,  the  Arabic 
writings,  and  indeed  many  scholarly  Turks,  perpet- 
uate the  memory  of  its  founder  in  the  use  of  the  name 
Constantinople. 

Although  an  edict  published  at  the  dedication  of  the 
city  called  it  the  Second  or  New  Rome,  the  spirit  of  the 
government,  and  the  methods  by  which  it  was  conducted, 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT.   21 

differed  essentially  from  those  of  the  Eternal  City.  No 
Roman  simplicity  obtained  in  the  city  on  the  Bosphoriis. 
On  the  contrary,  no  circumstance  was  too  insignificant  to 
be  made  a  matter  of  official  importance,  any  ne<i;lect  of 
which  was  seriously  reprimanded  or  punished.  In  fact, 
the  life  of  the  court  and  the  officers  of  the  empire  re- 
sembled a  theatrical  spectacle,  magnificently  mounted 
and  brought  out  with  the  most  careful  attention  to  the 
minutest  details. 

The  impressive  New  Year  ceremony  of  the  old  capital 
was  imitated  in  the  new.  The  consuls,  in  the  splendour 
of  purple,  gold,  and  gems,  moved  in  procession  to  a  public 
srpiare,  and,  seated  in  their  chairs  of  office,  freed  a 
slave,  as  the  elder  Brutus  had  done.  The  festival  thus 
inaugurated  continued  some  days.  The  games  that  were 
celebrated,  the  circus,  theatre,  and  amphitheatre,  were 
conducted  at  an  expense  and  on  a  scale  of  magnificence 
that  surpassed  the  marvellous  splendours  of  "The  Thou- 
sand and  one  Nights." 

These  ceremonials  indicate  a  mingling  of  Paganism  and 
Christianity  in  tbc  mind  of  Constantine;  and  though  he 
Ijuilt  churches  and  called  his  capital  a  Christian  city,  we 
cannot  overlook  what  S.  Jerome  pointed  out,  —  that  the 
decoration  of  Constantinople  involved  the  spoliation  of 
nearly  all  other  cities  of  the  world,  and  these  Pagan 
trophies  failed  to  impart  to  it  an  aspect  which  ac- 
corded with  the  teaching  or  spirit  of  the  founder  of 
Christianity. 

While  the  emperor  conferred  honours  and  wealth  upon 
the  clergy,  he  kept  so  strict  a  watch  over  their  acts  as 
made  him  essentially  the  head  of  the  Church,  as  of  the 
State,  and  in  virtue  of  his  authority  he  summoned  the 
first  general  council  at  Nice,  a.  d.  325.  But  the  Christian- 
ity of  Constantine  was  of  a  half-hearted  and  feebly  com- 
prehended   sort,    that    could   never  equal    in    power   the 


22  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Christianity  of  the  West,  where  its  force  was  spent  in  the 
propagation  of  progress  and  virtue  rather  than  in  such 
discussions  of  dogmas  and  metaphysics  as  prevailed  in 
the  Eastern  Churcli. 

The  liope  of  making  the  New  Rome  the  centre  of  govern- 
ment for  the  world  depended  upon  the  establishment  of 
a  sincere  concord  between  the  people  and  their  rulers; 
upon  the  welding  together  of  provinces  that  were  totally 
different  in  their  characteristics,  and  separated  by 
great  distances,  over  which  there  were  no  organized  and 
safe  methods  of  communication ;  but  as  we  study  its 
history,  we  find  that  the  people  had  no  sense  of  their 
responsibility. 

Constantinc,  who  had  been  a  great  disciplinarian  of 
armies,  now  became  a  legislator,  and  justice  was  more 
systematically  administered  than  heretofore.  Slavery 
was  greatly  restricted,  and  Christians  could  not  be  the 
bondsmen  of  Jews  and  Pagans.  Parents  could  no  longer 
sell  their  children,  and  were  aided  to  support  them 
by  the  government.  Cruel  punishments,  especially  that 
of  crucifixion,  were  abolished,  and  in  a  variety  of 
minor  ways  the  safety  and  happiness  of  the  people  were 
increased. 

As  opposed  to  these  benevolent  measures,  was  the  heavy 
taxation  which  was  necessitated  by  the  vast  undertakings 
of  the  government  and  the  magnificence  of  the  court.  The 
burden  was  especially-  heavy  on  the  cultivators  of  the  soil, 
who  were  reduced  to  the  condition  of  serfs,  since  they 
could  not  become  soldiers,  but  must  continue  to  follow 
the  occupation  of  their  fathers.  They  were  disarmed  to 
prevent  rebellions,  and  the  class  which  had  made  the 
backbone  of  the  Roman  army  had  no  part  in  political  or 
military  affairs,  while  their  lives  were  far  more  com- 
fortable than  under  the  former  system.  The  profession 
of  arms  thus  became  almost  a  matter  of  inheritance,  and 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT.   23 

the  masses  were  entirely  out  of  touch  with  the  ruling- 
classes.  Under  these  conditions  patriotism  and  political 
virtue  were  unknown  to  the  majority  of  the  subjects  of  the 
Emperor  Constantine.  But  however  faulty  his  policy 
now  appears,  this  ruler  inaugurated  an  order  of  things 
which  had  a  great  influence  on  the  world  for  centuries; 
perhaps  we  may  say  that  some  of  its  results  still  survive. 

The  character  of  Constantine  has  been  pictured  from 
the  extremes  of  praise  and  censure,  but  the  truth  presents 
an  unusual  blending  of  virtues  and  vices.  Handsome, 
majestic,  and  graceful  in  person,  he  preserved  these 
natural  gifts  to  his  latest  years,  by  a  life  of  temperance 
and  chastity.  His  mind  was  vigorous  and  alert;  and  the 
disadvantages  of  a  meagre  education  did  not  prevent  him 
from  appreciating  the  value  of  learning,  art,  and  science, 
all  of  which  he  munificently  encouraged.  His  industry 
and  patience  were  phenomenal,  and  commanded  the 
admiration  of  those  who  disapproved  his  measures.  His 
ambition  was  boundless.  He  loved  glory,  and  was  of  the 
most  intrej)id  spirit,  by  aid  of  which  he  inspired  his 
soldiers  with  confidence  in  himself  and  courage  to  execute 
his  plans,  which  were  those  of  a  consummate  general,  as 
has  been  acknowledged  by  his  severest  critics.  Gibbon 
ascribes  his  successes  to  his  abilities  rather  than  to 
his  fortune.  His  courtesy  of  manner  attracted  all  who 
approached  him;  and  though  his  sincerity  in  friend- 
ship has  been  denied,  he  proved  himself,  in  some  in- 
stances, a  devoted  and  faithful  adherent  to  those  whom 
he  loved. 

In  contrast  to  these  virtues  stand  the  rapaciousness  and 
prodigality  of  his  later  life.  The  vast  sums  which  he  spent 
were  partly  lavished  on  unworthy  favourites,  who  were  also 
permitted  such  practices  as  gradually  undermined  the 
administration,  and  lessened  the  esteem  of  his  people  for 
their  cin[)eror. 


24  .  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

'•  The  dress  and  manners  which,  towards  the  decline  of  life, 
he  chose  to  affect,  served  only  to  degrade  him  in  the  eyes  of 
mankind.  The  Asiatic  pomp  which  had  been  adopted  by  the 
pride  of  Diocletian,  assumed  an  air  of  softness  and  effeminacy 
in  the  person  of  Constantine.  He  is  represented  with  false  hair 
of  various  colours,  laboriously  arranged  by  the  skilful  artists  of 
the  times  ;  a  diadem  of  a  new  and  more  expensive  fashion  ;  a 
profusion  of  gems  and  pearls,  of  collars  and  bracelets  ;  and  a 
variegated  flowing  robe  of  silk,  most  curiously  embroidered  with 
flowers  of  gold.  In  such  apparel,  scarcely  to  be  excused  by  the 
youth  and  folly  of  Elagabalus,  we  are  at  a  loss  to  discover  the 
wisdom  of  an  aged  monarch  and  the  simplicity  of  a  Roman 
veteran.  A  mind  thus  relaxed  by  prosperity  and  indulgence 
was  incapable  of  rising  to  that  magnanimity  which  disdains 
suspicion  and  dares  to  forgive.  The  deaths  of  Maximian  and 
Licinius  may  perhaps  be  justified  by  the  maxims  of  policy  as 
they  are  taught  in  the  school  of  tyrants  ;  but  an  impartial  narra- 
tive of  the  executions,  or  rather  murders,  which  sullied  the  de- 
clining age  of  Constantine,  will  suggest  to  our  most  candid 
thoughts  the  idea  of  a  prince  wlio  could  sacrifice,  without  reluc- 
tance, the  laws  of  justice  and  the  feelings  of  nature  to  the 
dictates  either  of  his  passions  or  of  his  interest."  ^ 

Quite  in  accord  with  this  picture  of  the  later  years  of 
the  emperor  is  the  fact  that  while  he  beautified  the  Baths 
of  Zeuxippus,  and  lavished  such  riches  on  them  that  they 
were  soon  famous  as  the  most  splendid  and  luxurious  in 
':he  world,  and  while  all  kinds  of  edifices  for  convenience 
and  amusement  were  erected  with  surprising  celerity,  few 
churches  were  provided  for  the  worship  of  his  subjects. 
He  deprived  the  Pagan  temples  of  their  revenues,  and 
permitted  some  of  them  to  remain  undisturbed,  while  he 
converted  others  to  the  uses  of  the  Christians.  The 
Temple  of  Peace  made  a  part  of  the  church  of  S. 
Sophia,  and  the  churcli  of  the  Twelve  Apostles  was  fin- 

^  Gibbon,  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  CONSTANTINE  THE  GREAT.   25 

ished  but  a  few  days  before  the  death  of  Constantino,  in 
337.  This  church  Avas  the  burial-place  of  the  Christian 
emperors;  its  site  is  now  occupied  by  the  Mosque  of 
Mohammed  II. 

Here  the  bodies  of  the  early  rulers  of  the  empire  were 
enshrined  in  sarcophagi  of  porphyry  and  a  variety  of  rich 
and  beautiful  marbles.  But  these  tombs  of  the  im})erial 
dead  were  not  secure  from  spoliation,  and  the  deed  was 
not  left  to  be  done  by  the  Turk.  The  Latins,  in  1204, 
shamelessly  rifled  the  church  of  the  Twelve  Apostles, 
stole  its  treasures,  and  scattered  the  bones  of  the  emperors 
to  destruction,  with  blaspheming  and  mockery;  and  it  is 
not  to  be  regretted  that  the  scene  of  such  Christian  dese- 
cration is  covered  by  a  temple  in  which  thousands  of  men 
have  humbly  prayed  to  their  God,  according  to  the  teach- 
ing of  his  Prophet. 


CHAPTER   III. 

VALENS,    THEODOSIUS   THE   GREAT,    ARCADIUS,    AND 
THEODOSIUS   II. 

364-527. 

THE  three  sons  of  Constantine  proved  singularly 
unworthy  of  the  empire  which  he  divided  between 
them;  and  the  same  is  also  true  of  their  successors,  Julian 
and  Jovian.  The  most  important  result  of  the  quarter  of 
a  century  which  succeeded  the  death  of  the  emperor  was 
the  loss  of  five  provinces  east  of  the  Tigris,  and  the  city 
of  Nisibis,  with  fortifications  which  had  been  an  impor- 
tant buhvark  of  the  Roman  strength  in  the  East. 

Valens  succeeded  to  the  throne  of  Constantinople  in 
364 ;  and  early  in  his  reign  the  Huns  began  their  ravages 
in  Europe,  and  even  the  much  dreaded  Goths  were  driven 
before  them  to  the  banks  of  the  Danube.  These  last  had 
become  a  half  civilized  and  Christianized  people;  and 
when  they  begged  to  be  permitted  to  settle  in  Thrace  as 
Roman  subjects,  their  prayer  was  granted  on  the  condi- 
tions that  they  should  surrender  their  arms  and  allow 
their  children  to  be  dispersed  in  the  Asiatic  provinces,  as 
pledges  of  their  good  conduct.  Fear  of  the  Huns  drove 
the  Goths  to  consent  to  these  extreme  demands ;  but  lat  cr 
they  succeeded  in  bribing  the  imperial  ministers  to  permit 
them  to  retain  their  weapons,  and  the  plains  of  Bulgaria 
were  soon  occupied  by  a  wealthy,  powerful,  and  dangerous 
multitude. 

For  a  time  all  went  well ;  but  when  the  Romans  de- 
manded exorbitant  prices  of  the  Goths  for  the  necessities 


VALENS  —  THEODOSIUS.  27 

of  life,  the  latter  rebelled,  put  the  Roman  legions  to 
ilight,  ravaged  the  fruitful  regions  north  of  Constanti- 
nople, and  massed  two  hundred  thousand  warriors  under 
the  walls  of  Adrianople. 

Valens,  who  was  at  Antioch,  rapidly  brought  his  legions 
to  the  defence  of  his  capital,  and  called  on  his  nephew 
Gratian,  who  ruled  at  Rome,  to  aid  him.  But  so  impa- 
tient was  Valens,  and  so  desirous  of  defeating  the  Goths 
by  his  prowess  alone,  that  he  did  not  await  assistance, 
but  attacked  his  enemy  under  great  disadvantages.  He 
sutfered  a  terrible  defeat,  and  lost  his  life;  two  thirds  of 
his  soldiers  perished,  and  the  Goths  were  masters  of  the 
territory  south  of  the  Danube.  Happily  the  strongholds 
of  Adrianople  and  Constantinople  were  able  to  repulse  the 
attacks  of  these  semi-barbarians,  who  were  swept  off  in 
great  numbers  by  the  missiles  hurled  from  the  fortified 
walls;  and  the  survivors  were  dispersed  throughout  the 
wilds  of  Thrace. 

Valens  was  succeeded  by  Theodosius,  who  was  called 
from  the  cultivation  of  his  farm  in  Spain  to  the  throne  of 
Constantinople.  Gibbon  says:  "The  whole  period  of  the 
history  of  the  world  will  not  perhaps  afford  a  similar 
example  of  an  elevation  at  the  same  time  so  pure  and  so 
honorable."  Theodosius  was  thirty-two  years  old  when 
he  became  emi)eror,  and  was  as  handsome  and  command- 
ing in  person  as  he  was  superior  in  character.  His  reign 
is  notable  for  the  settlement  of  the  Goths  Avithin  his 
em{)ire  and  the  overthrow  of  Paganism. 

Although  he  had  been  reared  a  soldier,  Theodosius  \)ve- 
fcrred  negotiations  before  wars;  and  by  his  skilful  ircat- 
mcjnt  of  the  Guths,  within  four  years  these  formidaI)le 
enemies  were  peacefully  settled  in  Roumelia  and  other 
provinces,  and  were  no  longer  the  avowed  enemies  of  the 
Romans. 

Theodosius  was  a  Christian  of  a  very  pronounced  type, 


28  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

and  made  it  one  of  his  first  and  most  important  cares  to 
establish  orthodoxy,  and  exterminate  the  Ariauism  which 
prevailed  at  Constantinople.  He  was  not  baptized,  how- 
ever, until  after  he  came  to  the  throne,  and  was  the  first 
emperor  who  received  that  sacrament  in  the  full  faith  of 
the  Trinity. 

In  381  Theodosius  called  a  general  council  of  the  Church 
at  Constantinople,  in  order  to  establish  the  faith  as 
declared  in  the  Nicene  creed.  This  council  ended  in  a 
scandalous  turbulence ;  but  as  it  had  confirmed  the 
emperor's  views  of  the  Catholic  faith  in  the  most  positive 
manner,  he  proceeded  to  enforce  its  decisions.  The  most 
rigorous  punishments  were  decreed  for  all  heretics,  which 
were  not  often  executed;  for  though  Theodosius  was  mer- 
cilessly cruel  at  times,  he  by  no  means  embraced  all  his 
opportunities  for  persecutions.  His  whole  heart,  how- 
ever, was  fixed  on  the  extinction  of  Paganism  in  his 
cm]ure ;  and  this  he  accomplished  as  far  as  its  outward 
manifestations  were  concerned,  even  if  he  could  not  root 
it  from  the  hearts  of  men. 

Theodosius  committed  one  crime  which  stands  out  in 
lurid  colours,  even  from  his  blood-stained  age.  His  gen- 
eral, Botheric,  and  several  other  officers,  were  brutally 
murdered  by  the  people  of  Thessalonica,  where  Theodosius 
had  himself  spent  much  time.  The  news  of  these  murders, 
and  of  many  indecent  circumstances  attending  them,  was 
carried  to  the  emperor  at  Milan.  His  fiery  temper  was 
fully  aroused,  and  in  spite  of  the  counsels  of  the  bishops, 
he  despatched  messengers  with  orders  for  a  cowardly  and 
terrible  vengeance  to  be  taken,  not  only  on  those  who  had 
murdered  his  officers,  but  on  all  the  city  and  the  strangers 
w^ithin  its  gates.  After  his  commands  had  been  given,  he 
endeavoured  to  prevent  their  execution ;  but  it  was  too  late. 
The  people  of  Thessalonica  were  invited,  in  the  name  of 
the  emperor,  to  witness  the  games  in  the  circus,  and  there 


THEODOSIUS.  29 

they  were  butchered  by  thousands.  The  carnage  lasted 
three  hours.  The  victims  were  of  all  ages  and  both  sexes, 
and  their  numbers  are  estimated  from  seven  to  fifteen 
thousand,   by  good  authorities. 

When  Ambrose,  the  great  Archbishop  of  Milan,  learned 
of  this  massacre,  he  at  first  avoided  the  emiteror;  but 
believing  that  silence  before  such  a  crime  would  be  a  sin 
for  one  in  his  office,  he  both  publicly  and  privately 
admonished  Theodosius,  declaring  that  no  secret  con- 
trition or  penance  could  atone  for  such  sin  as  he  had 
committed.  At  the  porch  of  the  church  the  arch- 
bishop denied  the  emperor  admission  to  the  house  of 
God. 

The  remnant  of  the  emperor's  life  could  not  suffice  for 
any  proper  penance,  and  at  length  he  was  permitted  to 
appear  in  the  midst  of  the  cathedral,  with  no  insignia  of 
his  rank,  and  with  all  possible  humility,  and  there  con- 
fess his  crime  and  implore  pardon.  Eight  months  after 
this  dramatic  act  the  suppliant  was  permitted  to  receive 
the  sacrament,  and  it  is  l)clieved  that  the  edict  which 
fixed  a  period  of  thirty  days  between  the  sentence  for  a 
crime  and  its  execution  resulted  from  the  over-haste  of 
Theodosius  in  taking  his  revenge. 

On  the  death  of  Gratian,  who  had  ruled  the  Western 
Empire,  Theodosius  became  the  Em})eror  of  the  Woild, 
as  the  Eastern  and  Western  Roman  empires  were  then 
called.  Valentinian,  the  brother  and  heir  of  Gratian, 
was  a  mere  child,  and  his  mother,  Justiun,  fled  with 
liim  and  her  dnuglitor  Galla,  to  ask  the  protection  of 
Theodosius.  Tliis  w:is  readily  granted,  and  with  the 
greatest  good-will,  ns  the  emperor  fell  madly  in  love  with 
the  ])eautiful  yrmug  ))riufess,  and  married  her.  For  the 
I(.ve  of  G;ill;i,  Theodosius  fought  the  battles  of  Valen- 
tinian, and  seated  him  on  liis  (lirone;  bul  lie  was  soon 
al'toi'  miiidcred,   an<l   (jue  Eiigcuius  reigned   in  his  jilace, 


30  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

until   he   was   in   turn   overthrown  ])y  Theodosius,   who 
again  governed  "the  World." 

He  did  not  long  enjoy  this  distinction,  however,  as  he 
lived  but  four  months  after  his  great  victories. 

"  Notwithstanding  the  recent  animosities  of  a  civil  war,  his 
death  was  universally  lamented.  The  barbarians  whom  he  had 
vanquished,  and  the  churchmen  by  whom  he  had  been  subdued, 
celebrated  with  loud  and  sincere  applause  the  qualities  of  the 
deceased  which  appeared  the  most  valuable  in  their  eyes."  ^ 

The  author  just  quoted  says  that  with  Theodosius  "  the 
genius  of  Rome  expired."  At  least,  it  did  not  survive 
in  his  sons,  Arcadius  and  Honorius,  on  whom  he  had  con- 
ferred the  title  of  Augusti.  To  the  eldest,  Arcadius,  the 
throne  of  Constantinople  was  assigned,  while  the  child 
Honorius,  but  eleven  years  old,  was  sent  to  be  the  Emperor 
of  the  West,  under  the  guardianship  of  the  great  soldier 
Stilicho. 

From  tltis  time  the  history  of  Constantinople  is  essen- 
tially divorced  from  that  of  Rome.  Indeed,  the  two 
empires  soon  lost  all  sympathy  with  each  other.  The 
Western  people  looked  with  scorn  upon  the  Eastern  capi- 
tal, and  prided  themselves  upon  their  inheritance  of  the 
"Old  Rome;"  while  the  more  civilized  and  luxurious 
inhabitants  of  the  city  of  Constantine  despised  the  rude 
and  uncultured  Romans.  This  separation  occurred  just 
when  harmony  between  these  powers  would  have  been 
of  great  value  in  repelling  the  barbarians;  but  the  two 
Romes  soon  became  as  essentially  antagonistic  as  they 
could  have  been  had  they  been  bound  by  no  ties  of  blood, 
and  had  not  claimed  to  be  the  exponents  and  supporters 
of  Cbristianity. 

Constantinople  was  now  in  a  position  to  be  made  the 
great  power  of  the  world,  and  to  be  firmly  established  in 

1  Gibbon. 


ARCADIUS.  31 

that  position.  Her  splendid  fortifications  had  defied  the 
great  Alaric.  She  had  abundant  supplies  of  gold  in 
Thrace  and  Pontus,  and  the  largest  commerce  in  the 
world,   while  her  provinces  were  populous  and  rich. 

Had  Arcadius  equalled  his  father,  he  could  have  attained 
to  one  glory  after  another,  and  reached  the  loftiest  pin- 
nacle of  power  and  fame.  But  although  he  was  called 
Ciesar  and  Augustus,  he  was  as  contemptible  in  character 
and  acquirements  as  in  personal  appearance,  and  was 
easily  ruled  by  the  eunuchs  and  women  who  flattered  his 
vanity  and  ministered  to  his  vicious  inclinations.  His 
minister,  Eutropius,  incited  him  to  great  cruelties  ;  and 
so  infamous  did  this  favourite  eunuch  become,  that  a 
powerful  Gothic  enemy  declined  to  negotiate  with  Arcadius 
unless  Eutropius  were  first  delivered  into  his  hands.  The 
empress  Eudoxia  easily  persuaded  Arcadius  to  profit  hy 
the  sacrifice  of  his  favourite ;  and  after  four  years  of  almost 
imperial  power,  he  was  exiled,  then  recalled,  and  finally 
executed. 

The  luxury  and  splendour  of  the  court  of  Arcadius  can 
scarcely  be  exaggerated.  It  was  equalled  only  by  its  cor- 
ruption and  the  depravity  of  its  life.  The  emperor's 
throne  was  of  massive  gold,  as  well  as  his  chariot,  which 
was  decked  with  jewels  of  great  size,  curtained  with  a 
rich  purple  stuff,  carpeted  with  snowy  white,  and  drawn 
by  mules  of  the  same  spotless  colour.  The  silken  robes  of 
the  emperor  were  embroidered  with  golden  dragons,  and 
everything  that  could  1)C  invented  to  add  to  his  luxury  and 
splendour  was  put  under  tribute  to  this  contemptible  and 
almost  deformed  ruler. 

This  magnificence  in  Constantinople  is  all  the  more 
striking  hy  its  contrast  to  the  condition  of  other  countries 
at  this  ])ori()d.  Alaric  was  plundering  the  chief  cities  of 
Greece,  and  inflicting  on  that  country  the  ruin  from  whicli 
it  never  recovered.      Its  great  jiublic  works,  aqueducts  and 


32  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

roads,  as  well  as  its  splendid  edifices  and  numberless  works 
of  art,  were  ruthlessly  destroyed  ;  and  from  this  inroad  of 
the  Goths  the  decline  of  the  Greeks  may  be  dated. 

The  greatest  interest  for  us  in  the  Constantinople  of 
this  inglorious  period  centres  around  S.  John  Chrysostom. 
It  has  been  said  that  under  the  reign  of  Arcadius  there 
were  many  converts  to  Christianity.  So  far  as  the  emperor 
had  a  religion,  he  was  orthodox ;  but  the  life  and  increase 
of  the  church  was  due  to  the  Archbishop  Chrysostom. 
The  people  relied  on  him,  and  deemed  him  a  prophet, 
while  they  loved  him  for  his  devotion  to  them  and  to  his 
religion.  That  eloquence  which  won  for  him  the  title  of 
"Golden-mouthed,"  held  his  listeners  by  a  spell,  and  we 
can  easily  believe  that  his  preaching  converted  many 
Pagans  to  the  Christian  religion. 

But  Chrysostom  denounced  the  life  of  the  court  with 
such  boldness  and  clearness  as  made  him  many  enemies, 
among  whom  was  the  empress,  —  a  woman  whose  ability 
and  determination  of  character,  together  with  her  influ- 
ence over  her  husband,  made  her  a  dangerous  and  power- 
ful enemy.  She  feared  the  people  too  much,  however,  to 
show  an  open  hostility  to  Chrysostom. 

This  wily  woman  profited  by  the  instrumentality  of 
Theophilus,  the  Patriarch  of  Alexandria,  whose  jealousy 
and  hatred  of  Chrysostom  were  known  to  her.  In  404  a 
synod  was  called,  to  meet  in  a  suburb  of  Chalcedon,  and 
Chrysostom  was  summoned  before  it  on  a  charge  of  con- 
tumacy. As  was  easily  to  be  foreseen,  when  the  position 
and  power  of  his  accusers  were  considered,  he  was  deposed 
from  his  office.  The  people  were  so  excited  and  enraged 
by  this  act  that  a  riot  ensued,  and  the  mob  threatened  the 
palace  and  the  empress.  Finally  an  earthquake  occurred, 
which  was  believed  to  be  a  witness  to  the  wrath  of  God. 
Even  Eudoxia  was  terrified,  and  desired  that  Chrysostom 
should  be  restored  to  his  arclihishopric. 


THEODOSIUS  IL  33 

But  the  terrific  boldness  with  which  he  now  denounced 
the  empress  and  .the  honours  which  were  paid  to  her  and 
to  her  statues,  was  certainly  exasperating  to  any  vain 
woman  in  her  position.  Such  words  as  these,  with  which 
he  is  said  to  have  begun  a  sermon,  "Herodias  again  rages; 
once  more  she  dances ;  once  again  she  requires  the  head 
of  John,"  proved  too  much  for  Eudoxia  to  bear,  and  in 
spite  of  her  fears  of  the  populace  and  of  the  judgments 
of  God,  she  boldly  instigated  the  second  deposition  of 
Chrysostom;  and  she  did  not  again  relent,  although  the 
day  on  which  the  bold  preacher  left  the  capital  was  marked 
by  a  serious  disturbance  of  the  people,  and  a  contiagra- 
tion,  which  destroyed  the  church  of  the  Divine  Wisdom 
and  the  Senate -house. 

The  calamities  at  Constantinople  —  the  famines,  fires, 
earthquakes,  and  flights  of  locusts,  which  rapidly  followed 
each  other  —  were  believed  to  be  divine  punishments  for 
the  persecution  of  Chrysostom ;  and  even  tlie  incursions  of 
barbarous  tribes,  who  spoiled  the  provinces  of  Asia  Minor, 
and  ravaged  Syria  and  Palestine,  were  regarded  as  con- 
sequences of  the  same  dreadful  sin  of  the  feeble  emperor, 
of  whom  no  single  worthy  or  memorable  deed  has  been 
recorded. 

In  408  Arcadius  died,  leaving  his  kingdom  to  his  son 
of  eight  years,  who  is  known  as  Theodosius  II.,  or  the 
Younger,  to  distinguish  him  from  his  grandfather.  His 
ruign  during  the  first  half  of  the  fifth  century  might  better 
be  called  the  reign  of  Pulcheria,  his  sister,  whose  influ- 
ence was  so  complete  over  her  weak  and  amiable  brother 
that  she  was  really  responsible  for  whatever  was  done  in 
his  name. 

The  most  masculine  taste  of  this  emperor  was  his  love 

of  hunting.      lie  also  spent  much  time  in  ])ainting  and 

carving,    although  liis   Avork    showed    no   artistic   tnlont. 

His  one   acconijolishment  was  his  penmanshii)  ;  and    he 

3 


34  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

illuminated  manuscripts,  which  gained  him  the  title  of 
Kalligraphcs,  the  fair  writer.  He  so  disliked  all  matters 
of  business  that  he  did  not  read  the  documents  which  he 
signed,  and  bj  this  means  enacted  some  cruel  and  unjust 
measures.  The  so-called  Theodosian  Code  sheds  lustre 
on  this  emperor's  name;  but  we  may  well  doubt  if  he 
knew  of  its  existence.  It  was  the  inevitable  result  of  the 
growing  intelligence  of  his  age  in  matters  of  government, 
and  of  the  wisdom  of  his  councillors. 

The  marriage  of  Thcodosius,  when  about  twenty  years 
old,  to  Athenais,  one  of  the  most  famous  empresses  of 
Constantinople,  was  arranged  by  Pulcheria,  although  the 
emperor  was  by  no  means  averse  to  the  beautiful  Greek 
maiden,  who  was  slightly  his  senior.  When  baptized, 
she  took  the  name  of  Eudocia ;  but  Pulcheria  did  not  per- 
mit her  the  title  of  Augusta  until  after  the  birth  of  a 
child.  Before  her  marriage  Eudocia  had  been  the  inti- 
mate friend  of,  and  probably  a  maid  of  honour  to,  Pulcheria 
for  seven  years  ;  and  so  long  as  the  empress  was  submis- 
sive to  the  will  of  her  sister-in-law,  all  went  well.  Eudocia 
was  a  most  accomplished  scholar,  and  occupied  herself  in 
making  a  poetical  paraphrase  of  a  large  portion  of  the  Old 
Testament.  She  also  wrote  out  the  legend  of  S.  Cyprian, 
and  applied  a  portion  of  Homer's  verses  to  the  life  and 
miracles  of  Christ.  Naturally  the  work  of  an  empress 
would  be  praised  by  her  contemporaries,  but  that  of 
Eudocia  has  been  commended  by  critics  of  a  later  age. 
Unfortunately  she  wrote  some  most  fulsome  praises  of  her 
husband,  in  which  she  attributed  to  him  qualities  which 
he  neither  possessed  nor  desired,  even  calling  him  a  brave 
warrior;  but  as  this  custom  of  flattering  falsehood  pre- 
vailed at  the  court  of  Theodosius,  it  should  be  offered  as 
an  excuse  for  the  panegyrics  of  the  empress,  all  the  more 
as  the  emperor's  affection  for  her  was  increased  with  the 
passage  of  years. 


THEODOSIUS  IL  85 

After  her  daughter  was  married  to  the  emperor  of  the 
Western  Empire,  Eudocia  made  a  royal  progress  to  Jeru- 
salem, which  was  called  a  pilgrimage  for  the  discharge 
of  grateful  vows;  but  the  splendour  which  attended  the 
empress  is  better  described  by  the  first  term  we  have  used. 
For  example,  at  Antioch,  she  pronounced  an  oration  to 
the  Senate  from  a  throne  of  gold  studded  with  gems,  and 
declared  her  intention  of  enlarging  the  walls  of  the  city. 
She  donated  two  hundred  pounds  of  gold  to  restore  the 
baths,  and  accepted  statues  which  were  decreed  to  her. 
Her  pious  gifts  in  the  Holy  Land  exceeded  the  munificence 
of  S.  Helena ;  ^  and  although  she  secured  aud  carried  to 
Constantinople  such  treasures  as  the  right  arm  of  S. 
Stephen,  the  chains  of  S.  Peter,  and  a  picture  of  the 
Virgin  painted  by  S.  Luke,  she  might  well  have  feared 
that  she  had  incurred  the  anger  of  Pulcheria. 

Having  thus  tasted  the  pleasure  of  power  and  pomp, 
she  attempted,  after  her  return,  to  assume  the  government 
of  her  husband's  empire  ;  and  a  genuine  woman's  war 
ensued  in  the  palace,  from  which  the  pious  virgin, 
Pulcheria,  came  out  victorious.  There  was  a  great  scan- 
dal of  some  sort,  by  which  the  affections  of  Tlieodosius 
were  turned  from  Eudocia.  The  accounts  of  the  nuittcr 
are  too  involved  to  be  clearly  understood,  but  Eudocia 
revenged  herself  for  the  murder  of  some  of  her  favoui'ites 
by  Pulcheria.  by  assassinating  the  agent  who  had  been 
employed  against  her.  Theodosius  was  induced  to  punish 
her  with  the  greatest  severity,  and,  stripped  of  her  honoui's 
and  disgraced  before  all  the  world,  she  passed  the  last 
sixteen  years  of  her  life  in  exile  and  prayer.  The  death 
of  Theodosius  and  the  eujjtivity  of  her  daughter  added  to 
the  miseries  of  her  condition,  and  she  died  at  Jerusalem, 
when  sixty-seven  years  old,    protesting  with  her   dying 

'  It  is  said  that  lier  gifts  exceeded  forty  millions  of  dollars. 


36  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

l)reath  that  she  was  innocent  of  any  sin  against  her  mar- 
riage vows  or  the  authority  of  her  husband. 

The  hist  years  of  the  reign  of  Theodosius  were  occupied 
in  a  war  with  the  Huns  under  the  leadership  of  AttiLa. 
A  terrible  earthquake  threw  down  a  large  part  of  the  im- 
pregnable walls  of  Constantinople,  and  destroyed  fifty- 
eight  towers.  At  length  a  treaty  was  made,  which  deprived 
the  emperor  of  a  large  proportion  of  his  former  territory, 
and  he  was  personally  subjected  to  the  most  humiliating 
conditions.  Attila  also  exacted  a  large  indemnity  ;  and 
as  the  extravagances  of  the  court  had  greatly  reduced  the 
vast  wealth  of  the  empire,  the  people  who  had  anything 
remaining  were  forced  to  make  immense  sacrifices.  The 
wealthy  classes  had  indulged  in  marvellous  expenditures. 
It  was  not  unusual  for  them  to  be  served  from  a  large 
table  of  solid  silver  with  a  service  of  gold,  while  the 
women  wore  jewels  of  inestimable  value.  All  these  were 
sacrificed  to  satisfy  the  demands  of  "the  Scourge  of 
God." 

Theodosius  did  not  long  survive  his  humiliation,  and 
was  killed  in  the  forty-third  year  of  his  reign  by  an  acci- 
dent when  hunting.  There  are  some  redeeming  features 
connected  with  the  rule  of  Theodosius.  While  no  great 
or  brilliant  deeds  were  achieved,  and  while  the  attacks  of 
foes  and  the  effects  of  desolating  natural  forces  combined 
to  reduce  the  empire  in  extent  and  importance,  so  well 
was  the  municipal  system  administered  as  to  render  the 
city  perfectly  safe  at  all  hours.  Legal,  religious,  and 
literary  standards  were  set  up,  which  exercised  a  potent 
influence  in  the  progress  of  civilization,  in  spite  of  the 
enervating  luxury  of  the  rich,  and  the  misery  and  poverty 
of  the  masses  of  the  people.  The  legal  rights  of  the 
lower  classes  received  an  unusual  recognition  in  the  Code 
of  Theodosius  II.  The  clergy  were  scholarly  men,  and 
held  such  relations  with  the  people  as  made  their  teach- 


OTHER  EMPERORS.  37 

ing  and  speculations  interesting  to  all,  and  the  discussions 
of  theology  and  metaphysics  occupied  much  of  the  time 
that  in  Rome  was  devoted  to  the  debasing  horrors  of  the 
gladiatorial  arena. 

The  writers  and  artists  of  Constantinople  during  this 
period  were  not  distinguished  by  genius,  and  indeed  the 
circle  that  could  be  calle^d  literary  was  small;  but^a  uni- 
versity was  founded  and  maintained  by  the  government. 
The  professors  were  learned  men,  and  after  twenty  years 
of  service  they  were  ennobled  and  received  the  title  of 
"Count,"  while  the  officers  of  the  civil  service  were  all 
men  who  had  held  high  rank  at  the  university. 

The  period  which  elapsed  between  the  death  of 
Theodosius  II.  and  the  reign  of  the  great  Justinian  was 
a  time  of  much  confusion  in  the  Eastern  Empire.  Its 
history  is  obscure,  and  affords  but  little  reliable  informa- 
tion. There  were  five  emperors,  —  Marcian,  a  soldier, 
whom  Pulcheria  associated  with  herself  in  the  govern- 
ment, and  for  political  purposes  made  nominally  her 
husband,  and  invested  with  the  purple.  Marcian  was 
at  least  a  soldier ;  and  when  Attila  demanded  the  tribute 
which  Theodosius  had  promised,  his  successor  replied, 
"I  have  iron  for  Attila,   l)ut  no  gold." 

After  seven  years  ]\Iarcian  was  succeeded  by  Leo,  called 
"The  Great,"  for  no  apparent  reason.  He  met  with  sad 
reverses  in  his  campaigns  against  the  Vandals,  and  was 
followed  by  Zcno,  a  barl)arian  and  heretic,  who  contended 
against  Tlieodoric,  the  Goth,  with  some  success.  The 
widow  of  Zeno  married  Anastasius,  who  has  been  called 
the  "prudent  emperor."  He  Avas  not  only  a  skilful  finan- 
cier, but  also  a  reformer ;  and  Finlay,  in  his  history, 
suggests  that  Anastasius  prepared  the  way  for  some  of  the 
triumphs  of  Justinian.  Pie  built  the  great  wall  which 
extended  from  the  Sea  of  Marmora  to  the  Black  Sea. 
Gibbon  speaks  of  this  defence  as  an  acknowledgment  of 


38  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  weakness  of  his  army ;  but  whatever  was  the  motive 
in  building  it,  it  was  an  important  faetor  in  the  preserva- 
tion of  civilization  in  Constantinople,  and  indeed  for  the 
world.  Anastasius  reigned  twenty-seven  years,  and  be- 
queathed his  throne  to  a  soldier,  Justin,  who,  a  Bulgarian 
peasant  by  birth,  was  a  discreet,  ignorant  man,  who  by 
patient  and  prudent  exercise  of  his  native  good  judgment 
was  able  to  secure  the  succession  to  his  nephew,  the 
famous  Justinian. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

JUSTINIAN,    HERACLIUS,  •  CONSTANTINE   IV.,    LEO   THE   ICONO- 
CLAST,   AND   THE   ISAURIAN   DYNASTY. 

527-867. 

ONE  can  but  wonder  at  the  world-wide  and  enduring 
fame  of  the  Emperor  Justinian,  when  his  life  is 
regarded  dispassionately ;  and  yet  one  pays  an  involuntary 
triljute  of  respect  to  every  human  being  who  has  secured 
his  remembrance  through  more  than  thirteen  centuries  as 
a  factor  in  that  which  makes  the  history  of  the  world. 

Justinian  was  fortunate  in  being  served  by  men  of 
unusual  talent  in  various  departments  of  his  empire,  and 
frankness  must  admit  that  this  sovereign  is  distinguished 
by  a  reflected  glory  from  the  achievements  of  these  ser- 
vants rather  than  by  any  brilliancy  of  thought  or  deed  on 
his  own  part.  He  owed  his  success  in  warfare  and  the 
increase  of  his  territory  to  Belisarius  and  Narses,  and  the 
compilation  of  the  Justinian  Code  to  Tribonian  and  his 
collaborators, —  the  signature  of  his  name  to  the  completed 
whole  being  the  chief  part  of  the  emperor  in  this  great 
work ;  and  he  was  even  indebted  to  his  infamous  empress 
for  courage  under  circumstances  of  personal  danger, 

Justinian,  like  his  uncle  Justin,  was  the  son  of  a  ])ca*s- 
ant,  and  was  distinguished  by  no  unusual  personal  quali- 
ties. Four  months  before  Justin  died,  when  he  found  the 
burden  of  the  empire  too  great  for  his  failing  strength, 
he  assembled  the  Patriarch  and  senators,  and  in  their 
presence  jjlaccd  his  diadem  on  tlu;  liead  of  Justinian,  who 
was  at  once  joyfully  received  by  the  people  as  their  future 


40  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

emperor.  His  chief  care  at  this  moment  of  his  elevation 
was  to  have  an  edict  published  by  the  dying  emperor, 
which  should  make  it  possible  for  a  woman  of  servile 
origin,  or  who  had  been  dishonoured  by  a  theatrical  pro- 
fession, to  be  raised  to  the  throne.  This  edict  was  imme- 
diately followed  by  the  marriage  of  Justinian  and  the 
atrocious  Theodora;  and  Justin  having  invested  his  nephew 
with  the  insignia  of  his  power,  the  Patriarch  of  Constan- 
tinople placed  a  diadem  on  the  head  of  Theodora  at  the 
same  time  that  he  crowned  her  husband. 

This  empress  was  the  daughter  of  a  bear-tamer  at  Con- 
stantinople, and  after  his  death  she  had  made  a  great 
success  as  a  pantomimist.  She  was  possessed  of  a  rare  and 
delicate  beauty  of  person,  strongly  inconsistent  with  her 
vileness  of  character.  Her  beauty  made  her  vulgarity  of 
tone  and  gesture  singularly  attractive  at  the  theatre, 
where  she  exposed  her  charms  with  a  freedom  which  can- 
not be  described.  Her  life  soon  became  the  most  licen- 
tious and  abandoned  that  can  be  imagined,  and  she  at 
length  accompanied  one  of  her  lovers  to  Africa.  She  was 
deserted  in  Alexandria,  where  she  suffered  the  bitterest 
poverty ;  but  having  a  vision  which  prophesied  her  future 
greatness,  she  painfully  made  her  way  back  to  Constanti- 
nople, and  there  earned  her  living  at  some  humble  but 
honest  occupation,  in  a  small  house,  which  she  later 
converted  into  a  splendid  temple. 

Upon  her  arrival  in  Constantinople,  finding  that  the 
nephew  of  the  emperor  was  already  very  powerful,  and 
the  prospective  heir  to  the  throne,  she  contrived  to  make 
his  acquaintance,  and  soon  held  him  under  a  spell  of 
absolute  fascination.  Moreover,  she  succeeded  in  retain- 
ing his  devoted  affection,  and  cleverly  excelled  those  of 
her  class  best  known  in  history  when  she  was  raised  to  his 
throne.  He  delighted  in  doing  her  honour,  so  long  as  she 
lived,  and  lavished  on  her  all  the  treasures  of  the  Orient. 


JUSTINIAN.  41 

This  empress  passed  much  of  her  time  in  the  palaces 
on  the  sea-coast,  where  she  lived  -in  a  manner  calculated 
to  preserve  her  beauty.  She  surrounded  herself  with  her 
favourites,  and  treated  the  patricians  who  sought  her  pres- 
ence with  arrogance  or  levity,  as  her  mood  might  dictate. 
The  two  passions  which  she  especially  indulged  Averc 
avarice  and  cruelty.  She  piled  up  wealth,  which  she 
secured  principally  through  the  fears  of  her  subjects,  for 
her  cruelties  were  so  dreaded  as  to  compel  assent  to  her 
most  exorbitant  demands.  She  employed  spies,  who 
reported  everything  that  could  possibly  be  considered  an 
offence  to  her ;  and  those  who  were  thus  accused  were 
thrown  into  dungeons,  of  which  she  was  sole  mistress. 
Some  of  these  unfortunates  never  saw  the  light  again, 
while  others  were  permitted  to  return  to  their  friends 
void  of  reason,  or  maimed  and  disfigured  for  life.  It  is 
recorded  that  she  did  not  hesitate  to  witness  the  most 
frightful  tortures  and  scourgings,  and  guarded  against 
any  neglect  of  her  orders  by  threatening  her  minions  with 
the  same  punishments  which  she  administered  to  others, 
if  they  dared  disobey  her  mandates. 

One  worthy  deed  may  be  ascribed  to  her.  She  founded, 
on  the  Asiatic  side  of  the  Bosphorus,  an  extensive  monas- 
tery, where  five  hundred  women  who  were  leading  the 
life  from  which  she  had  escaped,  were  comfortably,  even 
liberally,  maintained. 

From  the  time  of  her  marriage  she  was  a  virtuous  wife, 
and  held  her  dominion  over  her  husband's  affections  to 
the  moment  of  their  final  separation.  At  length  her  fail- 
ing health  compelled  her  to  seek  relief  from  suffering, 
and  she  journeyed  to  the  Pythian  baths.  Her  train  num- 
bered four  thousand  attendants,  and  she  was  accompanied 
])y  a  goodly  number  of  patricians.  She  travelled  in  great 
luxury,  and  distributed  large  sums  to  churches,  monas- 
teries, and  hospitals,  imphjring  prayers  for  her  recovery; 


42  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

but  she  died  of  an  incurable  cancer  twenty-four  years  after 
her  marriage. 

In  the  fifth  year  of  Justinian's  reign  a  sedition  arose 
which  terrified  the  emperor,  and  but  for  the  influence  of 
Tlieodora,  he  would  have  succumbed  to  his  fear  of  the 
mob.  The  trouble  arose  in  the  serious  differences  between 
tlie  charioteers  in  the  Circus,  which  so  extended  to  the 
whole  peo})lc  as  to  involve  religious  and  political  ques- 
tions, as  well  as  those  of  the  games.  The  opposing 
parties  were  known  as  the  "Blues"  and  the  "Greens," 
from  the  colours  worn  by  the  charioteers.  Justinian  be- 
longed to  the  Blues,  —  the  orthodox  party,  and  the 
stronger,  who  made  such  serious  attacks  upon  the  Greens 
that  they  were  in  danger  of  extermination. 

At  the  celebration  of  the  games  on  the  Ides  of  January, 
both  parties  being  in  presence  of  the  emperor,  the  Greens 
took  occasion  to  appeal  to  him,  to  complain  of  their 
abuses,  and  demand  justice.  Justinian  answered  them 
with  severity,  calling  them  "Jews,  Samaritans,  and 
Manichosans. "  Excited  to  the  last  degree  by  these  in- 
sults, the  Greens  cursed  the  emperor  and  the  hour  of  his 
birth,  renounced  their  allegiance  to  him,  and  fled  from 
the  Circus  through  the  streets,  to  the  alarm  of  the  whole 
people.  The  Blues  pursued  them,  and  but  for  an  acci- 
dental meeting  with  seven  criminals,  who  were  being 
taken  to  execution,  a  frightful  massacre  would  have 
ensued. 

It  chanced  that  five  of  these  criminals  were  executed 
immediately,  and  the  remaining  two  were  hanged;  but 
the  rope  broke,  and  they  were  saved  from  again  falling 
into  the  hands  of  the  executioner  by  some  monks,  who 
conveyed  them  to  the  sanctuary  of  the  church.  One  of 
these  assassins  wore  blue,  the  other  green  livery;  and  this 
happening  was  sufficient  to  unite  the  two  bitter  factions 
in  the  work  of  opening  the  prisons,  burning  the  house  of 


JUSTINIAN.  43 

the  prefect,  and  killing  his  officers.  The  troops  sent  to 
quell  the  riot  were  overpowered.  Stones  were  hurled  on 
them  by  women  on  the  roofs.  Fires  were  set,  and  the 
church  of  S.  Sophia  and  many  other  splendid  edifices 
were  destroyed,  and  an  immense  treasure  in  precious 
metals  melted  or  stolen.  The  watchword  Nilca  (con- 
quer) gave  a  name  to  this  sedition,  which  endured  five 
days.  Justinian  endeavoured,  by  temporizing,  to  allay 
the  trouble  which  he  had  imprudently  caused.  He  went  to 
the  Hippodrome  to  address  the  people ;  but  they  distrusted 
his  sincerity,  and  their  clamour  so  alarmed  him  that  he 
fled  to  his  palace,   having  accomplished  nothing. 

The  Greens  then  seized  Hypatius,  a  nephew  of  the 
^jmperor  Anastasius,  carried  him  to  the  Forum  of  Con- 
stantine,  and  crowned  him  with  a  richly  jewelled  collar. 
The  cowardly  emperor  proposed  to  fly  with  the  imperial 
treasures;  but  Theodora,  in  the  midst  of  the  council, 
exclaimed,  — 

"  If  flight  were  the  only  means  of  safety,  yet  I  should  disdain 
to  fly.  Death  is  the  condition  of  our  birtli,  but  they  who  have 
reigned  should  never  survive  the  loss  of  dignity  and  dominion. 
I  implore  Heaven  that  I  may  never  be  seen,  uot  a  day,  without 
my  diadem  and  purple  ;  that  I  may  no  longer  behold  the  bght 
when  I  cease  to  be  saluted  with  the  name  of  queen.  If  you 
resolve,  O  Caesar !  to  fly,  yon  have  treasures  ;  behold  the  soa, 
you  have  ships  ;  but  tremble  lest  the  desire  of  life  sliould  ex- 
pose 3'ou  to  wretched  exile  and  ignominious  death.  For  my 
own  part,  I  adhere  to  the  maxim  of  antiquity,  that  the  throne 
is  a  glorious  sepulchre." 

The  jealousy  of  the  Blues  was  easily  revived,  and  the 
Oreens  were  left  to  support  Hypatius  alone.  This  afforded 
Justinian  an  opportunity  for  a  terrible  revenge.  Two 
divisions  of  soldiers  were  sent  to  the  Hippodrome.  The 
opposite  gates  were  burst  open  at  the  same  moment,  and 


44  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

a  merciless  carnage  ensued,  in  which  the  Blues  partici- 
pated to  emphasize  their  repentance.  Thirty  thousand 
Greens  were  murdered,  and  the  Hippodrome  was  closed 
for  years.  When  again  opened,  the  same  quarrels  were 
revived,  and  the  empire  was  long  disturbed  by  the  Blue 
and  Green  factions. 

Any  proper  relation  of  the  story  of  the  wars  which 
occurred  in  the  reign  of  Justinian  would  require  more 
space  than  we  can  give.  It  includes  many  notable  adven- 
tures and  deeds  of  both  men  and  women,  and  is  a  most 
interesting  portion  of  Gibbon's  fascinating  history;  but 
we  can  merely  say  that  the  great  general,  Belisarius,  was 
successful  in  destroying  the  Vandals.  He  added  Africa 
to  the  empire,  saved  Constantinoide  from  the  Bulgarians, 
overcame  Italy,  and  raised  the  siege  of  Rome.  And 
another  most  illustrious  soldier,  Narses,  the  eunuch, 
defeated  the  Goths,  Franks,  and  Alemanni,  and  governed 
Italy  as  exarch. 

During  this  reign,  too,  the  capital  was  adorned  by 
splendid  edifices,  and  the  long  wall  of  Anastasius  was 
rel)uilt.  The  old  Byzantine  palace  was  repaired,  and  the 
exquisite  summer  palace  of  Herjeum  was  erected,  and 
surrounded  with  its  delicious  gardens,  on  the  Asiatic 
shore,  near  Chalcedon.  It  was  the  delight  of  poets  to 
praise  this  palace,  but  Gibbon  tells  us  a  strange  tale  of  it. 
He  says  that  the  "  nymphs  "  there  were  constantly  alarmed 
by  a  whale,  "the  famous  Porphyrio,"  of  enormous  size, 
who  was  stranded  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  Sangaris,  hav- 
ing infested  the  neighbouring  seas  for  more  than  fifty 
years. 

But  of  greater  interest  to  all  men  for  all  time  is  the 
Corpus  of  Jurisprudence,  which  boars  the  name  of  Jus- 
tinian. This  work  was  done,  at  the  command  of  the 
emperor,  by  Tribonian  and  nine  other  learned  men. 
When  completed  and  signed  by  the  emperor,  it  was  dili- 


JUSTINIAN.  45 

gently  copied  by  scribes,  and  distributed  all  over  the 
empire,  while  other  learned  scribes  were  employed  in 
making  the  Pandects  or  Digest  of  the  Code,  to  which  the 
Institutes  were  added,  and  these  three  made  the  system  of 
civil  jurisprudence  for  the  empire.  These  were  the  only 
text-books  for  the  study  of  law,  and  the  only  authority  for 
the  decisions  of  the  tribunals.  Justinian  claimed  that  he 
had  been  inspired  by  the  Deity  to  undertake  this  great 
work,  and  by  the  aid  of  the  Deity  alone  was  enabled  to 
accomplish  it. 

The  solitary  copy  of  the  Pandects,  which  is  the  pride  of 
the  Laurentian  Library  in  Florence,  is  said  to  have  been 
found  at  Amalfi  in  1187.  It  had  long  been  supposed  to 
be  lost,  and  was  considered  by  the  Pisans  as  one  of  the 
greatest  treasures  of  their  conquest.  In  140G,  when  Pisa 
was  taken  by  the  Florentines,  this  wonderful  manuscript 
was  placed  under  a  jealous  guard  in  the  Palazzo  Vecchio. 
At  Florence  the  Pandects  were  bound  in  purple,  and 
enclosed  in  a  rich  casket,  which  was  sometimes  opened 
for  distinguished  travellers,  when  this  precious  possession 
was  shown  by  monks  or  magistrates  with  bared  heads, 
holding  tapers  in  their  hands. 

Pope  Leo  X.  bestowed  the  Pandects  on  his  nephew,  the 
Duke  of  Urbino;  but  in  1786  it  was  returned  to  Florence, 
and  consigned  to  the  library  above  the  cloisters  of  Snn 
Lorenzo.  For  a  long  time  it  was  thought  to  be  one  of 
two  copies  which  were  sent  to  Italy  by  Justinian  himself; 
but  it  is  more  probably  a  copy  made  by  Greek  scribes  not 
later  than  the  beginning  of  the  seventh  century,  and  many 
authorities  believe  it  to  have  been  the  only  authentic 
source  from  which  all  existing  written  and  printed  copies 
have  been  made. 

Justinian  died  at  eighty-three,  having  reigned  thirty- 
nine  years;  and  no  estimate  of  the  character  of  this 
renowned  man  can  equal  that  of  Gibbon:  — 


46  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

"  The  resemblance  of  Justiuian  to  llie  bust  of  Domitian  is 
maliciously  urged,  with  the  acknowledgment,  however,  of  a 
well-proportioned  figure,  a  ruddy  complexion,  and  a  pleasing 
countenance.  The  emperor  was  easy  of  access,  patient  of  hear- 
ing, courteous  and  affable  in  discourse,  and  a  master  of  the 
angry  passions  which  rage  with  such  destructive  violence  in 
the  breast  of  a  despot.  Procopius  praises  his  temper,  to  re- 
proach him  with  calm  and  deliberate  cruelty  ;  but  in  the  con- 
spiracies which  attacked  his  authority  and  person,  a  more  candid 
judge  will  approve  the  justice,  or  admire  the  clemency,  of  Jus- 
tinian. He  excelled  in  the  private  virtues  of  chastity  and  tem- 
perance ;  but  the  impartial  love  of  beauty  would  have  been  less 
mischievous  than  his  conjugal  tenderness  for  Theodora ;  and 
his  abstemious  diet  was  regulated,  not  by  the  prudence  of  a 
philosopher,  but  the  superstition  of  a  monk.  His  repasts  were 
short  and  frugal:  on  solemn  feasts  he  contented  himself  with 
water  and  vegetables ;  and  such  was  his  strength  as  well  as 
fervour,  that  he  frequently  passed  two  days,  and  as  many  nights, 
without  tasting  food.  The  measure  of  his  sleep  was  not  less 
rigorous:  after  the  repose  of  a  single  hour,  the  body  was 
awakened  by  the  soul,  and,  to  the  astonishment  of  his  chamber- 
lains, Justinian  walked  or  studied  till  the  morning  light.  .  .  . 
The  emperor  professed  himself  a  musician  and  architect,  a  poet 
and  philosopher,  a  lawyer  and  theologian  ;  and  if  he  failed  in  the 
enterprise  of  reconciling  the  Christian  sects,  the  review  of  the 
Roman  jurisprudence  is  a  noble  monument  of  his  spirit  and  in- 
dustry. In  the  government  of  the  empire  he  was  less  wise,  or 
,ess  successful :  the  age  was  unfortunate  ;  the  people  was  op- 
pressed and  discontented  ;  Theodora  abused  her  power ;  a  suc- 
cession of  bad  ministers  disgraced  his  judgment ;  and  Justinian 
was  neither  beloved  in  his  life  nor  regretted  at  his  death.  The 
love  of  fame  was  deeply  implanted  in  his  breast,  but  he  conde- 
scended to  the  poor  ambition  of  titles,  honours,  and  contemporary 
praise  ;  and  while  he  laboured  to  fix  the  admiration,  he  forfeited 
the  esteem  and  affection  of  the  Romans.  The  design  of  the 
African  and  Italian  wars  was  l)oldly  conceived  and  executed  ; 
and  his  penetration  discovered  the  talents  of  Belisarius  in  the 


JUSTINPAN.  47 

camp,  of  Narses  in  the  palace.  .  .  .  The  characters  of  Philip 
the  Second  and  Justinian  are  distinguished  by  the  cold  ambition 
which  dehghts  in  war  and  de«lines  the  danger  of  the  lield. 
Yet  a  colossal  statue  of  bronze  represented  the  emperor  on 
horseback,  preparhig  to  march  against  the  Persians  in  the  habit 
and  armour  of  Achilles.  In  the  great  square  before  the  church 
of  S.  Sophia,  this  monument  was  raised  on  a  brass  column  and 
a  stone  pedestal  of  seven  steps  ;  and  the  pillar  of  Theodosius, 
which  weighed  seven  thousand  four  hundred  pounds  of  silver, 
was  removed  from  the  same  place  by  the  avarice  and  vanity  of 
Justinian.  Future  princes  were  more  just  or  indulgent  to  his 
memory  ;  the  elder  Androuicus,  in  the  beginning  of  the  four- 
teenth century,  repaired  and  beautified  his  equestrian  statue  : 
since  the  fall  of  the  empire  it  has  been  melted  into  cannon  by 
the  victorious  Turks." 

It  is  said  that  during  the  sacrilegious  ravages  which 
followed  the  Latin  conquest  of  Constantinople,  when  the 
tombs  of  the  emperors  in  the  church  of  the  Ajjostlcs  were 
rifled,  the  corjjsc  of  Justinian  was  found,  and  the  six 
centuries  that  had  elapsed  since  his  burial  had  produced 
no  signs  of  decay. 

The  iui'oads  of  enemies  during  the  reign  of  Justinian  — 
of  Bulgarians,  Goths,  Vandals,  and  Persians  —  were  un- 
important, beside  tlio  ruin  which  was  wrought  by  carth- 
(piakes,  famine,  and  pestilence.  In  the  fifth  year  of  his 
reign,  a  comet  blazed  in  the  sky,  striking  terror  to  the 
hearts  of  the  people ;  and  each  succeeding  year  was  marked 
l)y  earthquakes,  and  Constantinople,  on  one  occasion, 
trembled  for  forty  successive  days,  while  cities  not  far 
away  were  swallowed  up,  and  millions  of  lives  were  lost; 
but  these  catastrophes  paled  before  the  horrors  of  the 
])lague.  By  this  curse  whole  districts  were  depopulated, 
the  harvests  were  not  made,  and  the  fruits  not  gathered 
from  trees  and  vines.  Even  Defoe's  descri])tions  of  tlu; 
Lond<jn  plague  are  scarcely   suflicient    in  their    fi'ightfiil 


48  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

details  to  picture  the  results  of  this  Oriental  spotted 
typhus.  During  three  months  five,  and  sometimes  ten, 
thousand  victims,  died  daily,  and  more  than  a  half- 
century  passed  before  it  could  be  said  to  be  entirely 
extinguished. 

The  immediate  followers  of  Justinian  upon  the  throne 
of  Constantinople  —  Justin  II.,  Tiberius  IL,  Maurice, 
and  Phocas  —  only  plunged  the  capital  and  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  empire  into  hopeless  weakness  and  misery; 
and  Heraclius,  on  his  accession  in  610,  assumed  the 
government  of  a  country  overwhelmed  with  debt.  The 
agricultural  classes  were  in  a  condition  of  disheartening 
poverty  and  misery.  From  high  to  low  a  hopeless  discon- 
tent prevailed.  Enemies  were  threatening  on  every  side; 
and  yet  the  people  would  take  any  possible  means  to  avoid 
entering  the  army,  from  which  the  soldiers  were  con- 
stantly deserting  to  become  monks,  or  to  follow  any 
calling  that  would  save  them  from  fighting  for  their 
country. 

Africa  alone,  of  all  the  Byzantine  possessions,  was  pros- 
perous ;  and  Heraclius  even  proposed  to  desert  the  city  of 
the  Bosphorus,  and  establish  a  new  capital  at  Carthage, 
This  proposal,  however,  awakened  the  remnants  of  patriot- 
ism in  the  hearts  of  his  subjects,  and  the  Patriarch,  at 
the  head  of  the  people,  called  the  emperor  to  meet  him  in 
S.  Sophia,  when  an  oath  that  he  would  abandon  this  idea 
was  exacted  from  him. 

The  history  of  the  reign  of  Heraclius  cannot  be  given 
here  in  detail,  although  his  wars  against  the  Persian 
Chosroes  are  full  of  interest  not  unmingled  with  romance. 

After  long  and  severe  struggles,  in  which  he  displayed 
almost  miraculous  determination  and  perseverance,  as 
well  as  great  personal  endurance  and  bravery,  Heraclius 
was  victorious  over  the  Persians,  and  on  his  return  to 
Constantinople  —  his  journey  being  a  perpetual  triumph 


HEKACLIUS  —  CONSTANTINE   IV.  49 

—  he  was  received  with  acclamations  of  joy,  and  entered 
the  capital  in  a  chariot  drawn  by  elephants.  He  had 
rescued  the  wood  of  the  True  Cross  from  the  keeping  of 
Chosroes,  and  made  a  pilgrimage  to  Jerusalem,  to  restore 
the  sacred  object  to  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  On  his  return, 
he  devoted  his  remaining  years  to  the  attempt  to  establish 
a  religious  and  a  patriotic  sentiment  among  his  subjects. 
But  the  innumerable  discussions  which  arose,  and  thei 
emperor's  Ecthesis  failed  of  their  object,  and  he  died, 
leaving  new  disputes  to  his  family  and  his  people. 

During  the  thirty  years  that  succeeded  the  death  of 
Heraclius,  there  is  little  to  interest  us  in  the  story  of 
Constantinople,  and  we  pass  to  the  first  siege  of  the  capital 
by  the  Saracens,  which  occurred  during  the  reign  of  Con- 
stantino lY.  about  the  year  673.  It  was  known  that  the 
Arabs  had  contemplated  this  attack  for  some  years,  and 
the  superstitious  fears  of  the  people  were  aroused  by  cer- 
tain signs,  which  they  regarded  as  precursors  of  serious 
evils;  and  had  the  Saracens  acted  promptly,  the  mental 
condition  of  the  people  of  Constantinople  would  have  been 
to  their  advantage. 

But  their  delay  afforded  the  opportunity  for  Callinicus, 
a  Syrian,  to  make  his  way  to  the  capital,  and  offer  to  the 
emperor  a  discovery  which  he  had  made,  that  would  surely 
enable  Constantino  to  defeat  his  foes,  and  drive  them 
from  his  kingdom.  This  proved  to  be  the  terrible  Greek 
Fire.  It  could  be  projected  on  objects  near  at  hand  or  at 
a  distance,  and  would  burn  on  water  as  readily  as  on 
land,  or  on  stone  or  iron  ns  disastrously  as  on  a  substance 
wliich  could  1)0  ignited.  In  short,  it  was  the  most  terrific 
and  destructive  agent  then  known  to  man. 
.  The  fleet  of  the  Saracens  passed  the  Dardanelles  without 
opposition,  and  invested  the  city,  and  so  numerous  were 
tlio  ships  that  it  was  surrounded  on  three  sides.  With 
them  were  three  of  the  special  friends  of  the  Prophet,  and 


50  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  commanders  and  soldiers  alike  believed  that  the  pres- 
ence of  these  holy  men  assured  the  success  of  their  under- 
taking. Moreover,  it  liad  been  i)romised  that  any  who 
fell  in  taking  Constantinople  should  be  forgiven  all  their 
sins  and  at  once  enter  Paradise. 

The  proof  that  death  in  this  war  opened  an  easy  path  to 
Moslem  sainthood  may  be  seen  to-day  in  Constantinople, 
in  the  tomb  of  Abu  Ayoob,  or  Job,  who  fell  in  tliis  siege. 
The  place  of  his  burial  was  revealed  to  Mohammed  II.  in 
a  vision.  It  has  been  surrounded  by  gardens  and  ceme- 
teries, in  which  are  many  dark  cypresses.  Above  the 
tomb  now  rises  a  mosque  of  white  marble,  where  the 
Sultans  are  installed  in  their  high  office.  It  is  a  place 
much  desired  for  burial  by  the  Moslems,  and  the  tombs  in 
its  cemeteries  are  remarkable  for  their  richness  of  decora- 
tion. No  Christian  is  permitted  to  reside  in  this  suburb 
nor  to  enter  this  mosque. 

The  Greek  fire  proved  so  effectual  in  preventing  the  near 
approach  of  the  vessels,  and  in  blinding  the  men  Avho 
attempted  to  scale  the  walls,  that  after  five  months  the 
Saracens  retired.  They  seized  Cyzicus,  where  they  re- 
mained until  the  next  spring,  when  a  second  ineffectual 
attack  was  made.  This  experience  was  repeated  each 
year  for  seven  years,  and  meantime  they  lost  many  ships. 
Their  engines  were  so  disabled  that  they  had  to  be  rebuilt 
annually,  and  yet  their  determination  held  out;  but  in 
the  seventh  year  they  were  attacked  by  a  pestilence,  which 
utterly  disheartened  them. 

So  many  of  their  vessels  were  lost  or  rendered  useless, 
that  in  order  to  retreat,  those  that  remained  were  much 
overcrowded,  and  still  great  numbers  were  left  to  make 
their  way  on  foot.  The  vessels,  with  all  on  board,  were 
lost  in  a  great  storm,  while  the  land  army,  footsore, 
wounded,  and  starving,  were  pursued  by  the  emperor's 
forces  and  mercilessly  slaughtered. 


LEO   THE   ICONOCLAST.  51 

Passing  over  years  of  troublous  confusion,  in  which  six 
emperors  were  dethroned  and  five  executed  or  blinded, 
one  only  being  allowed  to  exist  in  a  monastery,  we  come 
to  the  reign  of  Leo  the  Iconoclast,  and  founder  of  the 
Isaurian  dynasty.  He  was  of  humble  origin,  and  held  his 
first  prominent  position  as  commander  of  the  Anatolian 
Province.  During  his  rise  from  obscurity,  the  Eastern 
Empire  was  in  a  desperate  condition.  It  was  to  be 
expected  that  when  rulers  followed  each  other  in  quick 
succession,  disorder  should  prevail  in  all  departments. 
The  army  was  constantly  in  revolt.  The  Saracens  had 
extended  their  rule  from  Spain  to  Scinde  and  Cashgar,  and 
being  in  possession  of  the  city  opposite  Constantinople, 
on  the  Bosphorus,  they  anticipated  but  little  difficulty  in 
overthrowing  the  last  stronghold  of  the  empire,  under 
the  very  walls  of  which  the  Bulgarians  had  already  com- 
mitted depredations. 

When  Moslemah,  the  brother  of  the  Caliph  Suleiman, 
besieged  Amorium,  preparatory  to  approaching  Constanti- 
nople, Leo  had  his  first  opportunity  to  show  his  bravery 
and  military  prowess.  It  was  vastly  important  that  he 
should  gain  time  for  the  defence  of  the  city,  and  taking 
but  five  hundred  horsemen  with  him,  he  rode  to  the 
enemy's  camp,  and  i)ersuaded  the  general  in  charge  to 
suspend  the  attack  until  he  (Leo)  could  consult  Moslemah 
on  important  matters.  He  also  contrived  to  meet  secretly 
the  Bishop  of  Amorium,  and  command  him  to  maintain 
sturdily  the  defence  of  his  town.  Leo  then  begged  the 
Saracen  general  to  conduct  him  to  Moslemah,  and  the 
general,  thinking  that  he  should  thus  be  able  to  make  Leo 
a  prisoner,  consented  to  his  re(iuest;  but  when  a  narrow 
defile  was  reached,  from  which  a  road  led  to  the  camp  of 
the  Greek  army,  Leo  and  his  men  suddenly  drew  their 
swords,  cut  their  way  through  the  Saracens,  and  escaped 
in  safety. 


52  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

According  to  a  frequent  usage  of  the  age,  the  siege  of 
Amorium  having  been  raised,  Leo  was  made  emperor,  as 
a  reward  for  his  personal  bravery.  To  obtain  possession 
of  his  throne,  he  was  obliged  to  defeat  Theodosius  III., 
whom  he  consigned  to  a  monastery.  Then  entering  the 
city  triumphantly  by  the  Golden  Gate,  he  was  crowned  by 
the  Patriarch  in  the  church  of  S.  Sophia  in  March,  717. 

The  Saracens  now  knew  that  in  the  ruler  at  Constanti- 
nople they  had  a  foe  worthy  of  their  steel,  and  they  deter- 
mined to  make  another  attempt  to  conquer  the  capital 
before  Leo  should  have  time  to  strengthen  his  fortifica- 
tions and  increase  his  army.  Their  preparations  were 
made  on  an  enormous  scale.  Eighteen  hundred  ships  were 
sent  out  to  prevent  succour  or  food  from  reaching  Constan- 
tinople by  sea,  while  180,000  soldiers  were  ordered  to 
invest  the  city  by  land.  The  accounts  of  this  siege  are  so 
fragmentary  that  no  form  can  be  confidently  given  it;  but 
the  result  was  an  utter  defeat  of  the  Moslems,  greatly  to 
the  glory  of  Leo. 

The  ships  of  the  Saracens  were  burned;  the  Caliph 
died.  As  winter  came  on,  the  Moslems  succumbed  to  the 
cold  in  great  numljers,  and  they,  rather  than  their  enemies, 
were  in  want  of  food.  The  ships  sent  to  their  aid  were 
principally  manned  l)y  Christians,  who  thought  it  best  to 
join  the  winning  side,  and  thus  strengthened  Leo,  and 
disclosed  to  him  the  desperate  condition  of  his  besiegers. 
After  the  siege  had  continued  eighteen  months,  the 
Saracens  withdrew.  But  five  of  their  ships  ever  returned 
to  Syria,  and  only  the  barest  remnant  of  their  army  saw 
Damascus  again. 

Our  knowledge  of  this  memoral)le  siege  seems  to  indi- 
cate that  Leo  was  "  lucky  "  rather  than  great.  He  was  an 
adventurer  who  had  seized  a  throne.  He  did  little  but  sit 
still  within  his  well-supplied  capital,  and  permit  the  cold 
of  an  unaccustomed  climate  to  work  its  fatal  effect  on  the 


LEO   THE   ICONOCLAST.  63 

poorly  fed  Moslems.  However,  the  result  was  a  tremen- 
dous fact  ill  the  history  of  the  world,  for  after  this  defeat 
centuries  elapsed  before  the  Saracens  were  again  a  terror 
to  Constantinople. 

Leo  also  checked  the  ravages  of  other  enemies  who  had 
raided  his  territory,  even  to  his  very  gates,  and  having 
quieted  his  foes,  he  so  wisely  administered  his  fiiiaiiccs 
and  reformed  his  army,  as  to  secure  the  independence  of 
his  empire,  and  win  the  approval  and  admiration  of  all 
classes  save  one. 

The  priests  hated  him  because  he  opposed  the  idolatry 
which  had  cre})t  into  the  Church.  The  people  knew  noth- 
ing of  God  or  Christ,  or  of  anything  that  merited  the 
name  of  religion,  which  was  alone  represented  by  the 
kissing  of  pictures,  by  reliance  on  the  images  of  saints, 
and  other  idolatrous  practices.  Against  all  this  Leo 
waged  a  bold  crusade.  He  first  ordered  all  religious 
])ictures  to  be  hung  so  high  that  they  could  not  be  kissed, 
wliich  aroused  such  resentment,  not  only  in  the  capital, 
!)ut  also  among  the  islands  of  the  archipelago,  that  a 
fleet  was  sent  to  attack  Constantinople,  which  was  soon 
completely  defeated. 

Leo  convoked  an  assembly  of  the  highest  officials  of 
both  Church  and  State;  and  a  decree  was  solemnly  made, 
ordering  all  images  to  be  removed  from  the  chuiches  of 
the  empire.  Pope  Gregory  11.  then  issued  a  bull  excoui- 
municating  all  iconoclasts;  but  Leo  gave  no  heed  to  proc- 
lamations from  Rome,  and  thus  was  the  schism  originated 
which  steadily  widened  the  breach  between  the  Eastei'ii  and 
Western  churches;  and  after  the  election  of  Gregory  HI., 
(Jonstantinople  was  never  again  included  among  the  powers 
who  were  asked  for  a  confirmation  of  the  election  of  a  pope. 

Both  Leo  and  his  son,  Constantino  V.,  have  been  called 
everything  but  good  by  Chur(;h  historians,  on  accomit  of 
their  attempts  to  abolish  idolatry;  but  historical  truth,  so 


54  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

far  as  it  is  known,  affords  a  widely  differing  estimate  of 
tliese  J  saurian  emperors. 

During  the  continuance  of  the  Isnurian  dj'nasty  —  until 
867  —  history  constantly  repeats  itself,  alternating  between 
iconoelasm  and  religious  liberalism,  or  between  indiffer- 
ence and  the  most  abject  image  worship  and  idolatry. 
Horrible  cruelties  and  frightful  crimes  were  constantly 
{lorpetrated  in  the  name  of  religion. 

Historians  differ  widely  in  their  estimate  of  the  govern- 
ment of  the  empire  at  this  period.     Finlay  says:  — 

"  The  regularity  of  its  civil,  financial,  and  judicial  adminis- 
tration, the  defensive  power  of  its  military  and  naval  establish- 
ments, are  remarkable  in  an  age  of  temporary  measures  and 
universal  aggression.  The  state  of  education  and  the  moral 
position  of  the  clergy  certainly  offer  favourable  points  of  com- 
parison, even  with  the  brilliant  empires  of  Haroun  Al  Raschid 
and  Charlemagne.  .  .  .  The  hrst  step  towards  the  constitution 
of  modern  society,  wliich  renders  all  equal  in  the  eye  of  the 
law,  was  made  at  Constantinople  about  the  commencement  of 
the  eighth  century." 

The  attacks  of  the  Bulgarians  were  repelled,  and  the 
sieges  of  the  Saracens  were  fruitless.  Almost  without 
exception  the  Isaurian  emperors  were  soldiers,  and  most 
of  them  experienced  generals.  During  the  eighth  and 
ninth  centuries  Constantinople  was  the  centre  of  the  com- 
merce of  Europe,  and  the  wealth  of  the  capital  was  almost 
fabulous.  At  one  time  there  was  a  sum  in  the  imperial 
treasury  which  cannot  be  estimated  at  less  than  twenty- 
six  millions  of  dollars,  which  at  that  age  of  the  world  was 
far  more  valuable  than  in  our  own  day,  and  the  enormous 
expenditures  of  the  wcallliy  classes,  and  the  magnificence 
in  which  they  lived,  as  it  is  recounted  by  creditable  histo- 
rians, proves  that  their  wealth  was  evon  "beyond  the 
dreams  of  avarice." 


THE   ISAURIAN   DYNASTY.  55 

The  moral  condition  of  the  Byzantine  Empire  under  the 
Isaurians  cannot  be  judged  by  the  standards  of  a  more 
general  and  progressive  civilization;  but  it  was  superior 
to  that  of  any  preceding  age  when  applied  to  the  same 
number  of  people,  and  its  moral  tone  was  undoubtedly  a 
great  factor  in  its  preservation.  At  this  period,  too, 
slavery  was  much  less  than  it  had  formerly  been.  Hos- 
pitals and  other  philanthropic  institutions  were  founded, 
and,  in  short,  at  this  time  the  foundations  were  being  laid 
for  the  greatness  of  the  succeeding  dynasty. 

Science,  literature,  and  art  were  cultivated.  Grammar, 
poetry,  rhetoric,  philoso|)hy,  and  the  pure  sciences  were 
all  studied  by  Leo  the  Archbishop.  The  wonderfully 
beautiful  jewelry  and  the  exquisitely  illuminated  parch- 
ments of  the  ninth  century  excite  our  wonder  and  admira- 
tion, and  we  cannot  doubt  that  the  larger  works  of  the 
painter  and  statuary  equalled  these  in  excellence. 

Such  subjects  as  these,  at  which  we  have  but  hinted, 
are  too  great,  and  require  too  much  space  for  any  pro})er 
consideration  here;  but  when  one  reads  of  the  frightful 
crimes,  the  jealousies  and  the  horrors  on  one  side  of  the 
picture  of  ancient  Constantinople,  it  is  a  pleasure  to  look 
for  a  moment  on  the  more  cheerful  view,  as  presented  by 
some  of  the  most  reliable  authorities. 


CHAPTER   V. 

MACEDONIAN    AND   COMNENAN   DYNASTIES  —  DECADENCE   OF 
CONSTANTINOPLE. 

867-1203. 

WHILE  Michael  the  Drunkard  amused  himself  in  his 
dissolute  fashion,  a  boy  was  growing  up  in  his 
army,  w^ho  was  destined  to  be  the  murderer  and  successor 
of  this  last  of  the  Iconoclasts,  as  well  as  the  founder  of  a 
new  dynasty. 

This  boy,  Basil,  was  the  son  of  a  Macedonian  herdsman. 
He  was  stolen  by  Bulgarians,  and  carried  to  their  country, 
where,  on  hard  fare  and  in  a  wild  life,  he  developed  into 
a  handsome,  fearless  youth,  skilful  in  all  the  sports  and 
arts  of  half-barbaric  nations.  How  he  reached  Constan- 
tinople is  a  mystery;  but  there  he  entered  the  military 
service,  and  went  to  the  Peloponnesus  under  the  command 
of  a  cousin  of  the  emperor.  At  Patras  he  fell  sick  with 
1  fever.  His  beauty  and  grace  attracted  the  attention  of 
in  old  lady  of  immense  wealth,  who  so  lavished  her  gifts 
on  this  young  soldier  of  fortune  that  he  was  able  to  main- 
tain a  creditable  appearance  at  the  luxurious  court  of 
Constantinople. 

After  this  access  of  riches,  Basil  announced  that  he  was 
descended  from  the  ancient  Parthian  kings.  Whether  he 
believed  this  or  not,  it  added  to  his  consideration,  and  on 
his  return  to  Constantinople  he  made  himself  so  accep- 
table to  the  emperor  as  a  companion  in  his  revels  and  a 
dexterous  tamer  of  horses,  as  well  as  a  successful  wrestler, 


MACEDONIAN   AND   COMNENAN  DYNASTIES.  57 

that  Michael  demanded  his  constant  attendance  on  hira, 
and  soon  bestowed  some  of  the  highest  offices  in  his  court 
on  this  young  favourite. 

There  was  a  second  courtier  who  was  also  high  in  the 
emperor's  favour,  Symbatios;  and  at  first  Basil  found  it  to 
his  advantage  to  be  friendly  with  him,  and  the  two  soon 
joined  in  accusing  Bardas,  the  uncle  of  the  emperor,  of 
unfaithfulness.  At  first  Michael  gave  no  heed  to  these 
accusations ;  but  when  Bardas,  in  the  emperor's  tent,  ad- 
vised his  nephew  to  undertake  a  war  to  which  he  was 
not  inclined,  the  two  favourites  murdered  the  old  man  in 
the  presence  of  the  emperor.  When  Michael  returned  to 
his  palace,  a  monk  greeted  him  thus:  "All  hail,  emperor! 
all  hail  from  your  glorious  campaign !  You  return  covered 
with  blood,  and  it  is  your  own !  " 

Shortly  after  this,  Michael  made  Basil  his  colleague  on 
the  throne,  completely  overlooking  Symbatios,  who  had 
hoped  for  some  reward  for  assisting  in  the  murder  of  his 
father-in-law,  Bardas.  In  revenge  Symbatios  persuaded 
a  general,  Peganus,  to  a  revolt.  It  was  unsuccessful,  and 
both  Peganus  and  Symbatios  were  maimed  and  blinded, 
and  placed  as  beggars  before  one  of  the  imperial  palaces. 
As  it  is  impossible  to  verify  the  story,  so  often  told,  of 
this  fate  having  fallen  on  Belisarius,  it  has  been  sus- 
pected that  it  arose  from  the  punishment  of  these  two 
unfortunate  rebels. 

Michael  was  soon  seized  with  fear  lest  Basil  should 
dethrone  him,  and  took  a  second  colleague,  one  Basiliskios. 
Such  a  trinity  could  not  long  exist;  and  Basil,  Itoing  the 
coolest  and  most  cunning,  awaited  his  opportunity  to 
murder  the  other  two,  and  while  they  were  sunk  in  the 
deep  sleep  of  drunkenness,  he  despatched  them  ])oth,  and 
thus,  in  a  most  ungrateful  murder,  founded  the  Mace- 
donian dyuiisty.  There  could  be  little  hojic  of  a  wise  and 
successful  reign  under  a  sovereign  who  had  dishonoured 


58  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  sister,  and  married  the  mistress,  of  his  patron,  before 
brutally  murdering  him,  when  he  was  unable  to  make  the 
least  resistance. 

To  these  crimes  Basil  added  sacrilege  by  pretending  to 
deep  piety.  At  his  coronation,  kneeling  before  the  altar, 
he  proclaimed  that  he  dedicated  his  own  life  and  his 
empire  to  God's  service,  and  followed  this  by  calling  a 
general  council  of  the  Church,  at  which  no  reconciliation 
with  Rome  was  accomplished. 

Basil  found  an  empty  treasury  ;  but  desiring  to  be  popu- 
lar, and  having  a  certain  sympathy  for  the  lower  classes, 
from  which  he  had  risen,  he  determined  not  to  increase 
the  taxes.  By  resuming  the  enormous  grants  which 
Michael  had  lavished  on  his  favourites,  the  imperial 
purse  w-as  filled ;  and  this  policy  proved  so  popular  that 
it  was  followed  by  each  new  emperor  for  more  than  a 
century. 

Basil  energetically  pushed  the  revision  of  the  law,  and 
devoted  himself  to  the  proper  maintenance  and  discipline 
of  his  army,  and  so  insured  the  power  and  popularity  of 
his  government  that  he  was  able  to  found  the  dynasty 
which  held  the  throne  of  Constantinople  longer  than  any 
other. 

As  a  general,  he  was  energetic  and  eflficient,  but  not 
always  successful..  He  re-conquered  Cyprus,  but  lost  it 
again ;  and  though  he  acquired  new  power  in  Italy,  he  lost 
Syracuse,  His  ])rincipal  w^ars  were  against  the  Saracens 
and  Paulicians ;  and  if  he  was  not  a  great  conqueror,  he 
did  not  suffer  signal  defeats. 

Naturally  this  emperor  was  not  fitted  to  take  any  active 
part  in  the  legislation  of  his  empire ;  but  through  a  dis- 
creet employment  of  jurisconsults,  he  at  length  was  able 
to  publish  the  Basilika,  wdiicli  continued  in  use  among 
the  Greeks  until  their  conquest  by  the  Ottomans.  Finlay 
says : — 


MACEDONIAN   AND   COMNENAN   DYNASTIES.  59 

"  The  promulgation  of  the  Basilika  may  be  considered  as 
marking  the  complete  union  of  all  legislative,  executive,  judi- 
cial, financial,  and  administrative  power  in  the  person  of  the 
emperor.  The  Church  had  already  been  reduced  to  complete 
submission  to  the  imperial  authority.  Basil  may  therefore  claim 
to  be  the  emperor  who  established  arbitrary  despotism  as  the 
constitution  of  the  Roman  Empire.  The  divine  right  of  the 
sovereign  to  rule  as  God  might  be  pleased  to  enlighten  his 
understanding  and  soften  his  heart,  was  henceforth  the  recog- 
nized organic  law  of  the  B3'zautine  Empire." 

The  friendship  of  the  old  lady  of  Patras  —  Dauiclis  by 
name  —  for  Basil  is  the  most  interesting  circumstance  of 
his  private  life.  It  was  natural  that  she  should  wish  to 
see  her  protege  after  he  became  emperor.  He  had  sent 
for  her  son,  and  given  him  an  official  position  at  the  capi- 
tal; and  when  he  invited  the  old  lady  to  visit  his  court, 
she  set  off  in  a  luxurious  litter  borne  on  the  shoulders  of 
ten  slaves,  and  followed  by  three  hundred  other  attend- 
ants. Arrived  at  Constantinople,  she  was  lodged  in  the 
princely  palace,  Magnaura,  where  royal  guests  were  enter- 
tained, and  astonished  the  inhabitants  by  the  magnificence 
of  the  presents  she  had  brought  to  Basil,  which  far 
excelled  those  that  had  been  bestowed  by  foreign  sov- 
ereigns on  any  emperor. 

The  slaves  that  bore  the  gifts  were  of  great  beauty  and 
accomplishments,  and  were  a  portion  of  the  present.  They 
numbered  four  hundred  young  men,  one  hundred  maidens, 
and  one  hundred  eunuchs.  Daniclis  also  brought  a  ser- 
vice of  plates,  cups,  and  dishes  of  gold  and  silver;  a  hun- 
dred pieces  of  the  richest  coloured  draperies,  and  the  same 
amount  of  soft  woollen  cloth,  of  linen,  and  of  a  cambric  so 
fine  that  each  piece  could  be  enclosed  in  the  joint  of  a  reed. 

Basil  had  Ijuilt  a  s|)lendid  churcli,  as  an  atonomcut  for 
the  murder  of  the  I*]mperor  Micliacl,  which  so  touched  the 
lieart  of  Danielis  that  she  sent  to  the  Peloponnesus  for 


60  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

rich  carpets  of  enormous  size  to  protect  the  magnificent 
mosaic  of  the  pavement.  A  peacock  with  outspread  tail, 
which  decorated  one  of  these  rugs,  was  the  admiration  of 
all  who  saw  its  brilliant  colouring. 

Before  leaving  Constantinople,  Danielis  settled  a  large 
property  in  Greece  upon  Basil  and  her  son  jointly;  and 
after  Basil's  death,  her  son  having  also  died,  she  again 
visited  the  capital,  and  made  Leo,  the  son  of  her  favourite, 
her  sole  heir.  At  her  death  the  officers  of  the  empire 
were  amazed  at  her  wealth.  "  The  quantity  of  gold  coin, 
gold  and  silver  plate,  works  of  art  in  bronze,  furniture, 
rich  stuffs  in  linen,  cotton,  wool,  and  silk,  cattle  and 
slaves,  palaces  and  farms,  formed  an  inheritance  that 
enriched  even  an  emperor  of  Constantinople."^  The 
slaves  were  so  numerous  that  Leo  ordered  three  thousand 
to  be  freed,  and  settled  on  land  which  they  cultivated  as 
serfs ;  and  when  all  legacies  were  paid,  and  the  estate 
settled  according  to  the  testament  of  the  old  lady,  the 
emperor  had  received  eighty  villages. 

An  accident  in  the  hunting-field  brought  on  a  fever, 
from  which  Basil  died ;  and  consistently  with  his  cowardly 
nature,  he  ended  his  life  as  he  had  begun  it,  with  the 
murder  of  one  who  had  conferred  a  benefit  on  him.  His 
victim  was  the  servant  who  had  saved  his  life  by  cutting 
his  girdle  free  from  the  stag  that  had  thrust  his  antler 
into  it,  and  dragged  Basil  from  his  horse. 

Leo  VL,  known  as  the  Philosopher,  succeeded  to  the 
throne  of  his  father,  and  reigned  during  twenty-five  years, 
which  brought  great  misfortunes  to  the  empire.  The 
Saracens  took  the  city  of  Thessalonica,  and  carried 
twenty-two  thousand  of  its  people  into  hopeless  slavery. 
The  Bulgarians  also  defeated  Leo's  army,  and  perpetrated 
terrible  cruelties  on  his  soldiers,  while  his  Asiatic  fron- 
tiers were  constantly  besieged. 

1  Finlay. 


MACEDONIAN  AND   COMNENAN  DYNASTIES.  61 

Leo  VL  was  succeeded  by  bis  son,  Constantine  VIL, 
who  was  so  young  that  his  mother,  the  Empress  Zoe,  became 
regent.  After  many  disturbances,  the  boy  emperor  was 
married  to  the  daughter  of  the  Admiral  Romanus,  who 
then  became  the  real  head  of  the  government,  and  made 
Constantine  the  fifth  wheel  of  the  chariot  of  state.  But 
the  interest  of  the  emperor  was  centred  in  books,  music, 
and  art,  and  he  made  no  attempt  to  govern  his  empire, 
and  was  more  popular  than  any  other  Byzantine  ruler. 
His  writings  afford  the  best  history  of  his  time,  and  he 
caused  an  encyclopedia  of  historical  knowledge  to  be  com- 
piled under  his  oversight. 

Constantine  VII.  was  succeeded  by  his  son  Romanus  II.  ; 
and  he,  dying  at  twenty-five,  — after  having  recovered  the 
island  of  Crete  from  the  Saracens,  and  being  full  of  plans 
for  the  glory  of  his  country,  — was  followed  by  Nicephorus 
Phocas.  This  emperor  was  of  irreproachable  morals,  of 
cold  disposition,  and  miserly  habits.  He  was  most  un- 
l)0))ular,  and  after  six  years  was  murdered  by  his  nephew, 
John  Zimiskes,  who  became  emperor,  and  is  remembered 
for  the  single  important  circumstance  of  his  reign,  —  a 
successful  war  against  Russia. 

Zimiskes  was  succeeded  on  the  throne  of  the  Eastern 
Empire  by  men  and  women  who  claimed  to  be  its  rulers, 
on  grounds  of  greater  or  less  reason ;  but  their  dissolute 
lives  and  sliameless  disregard  of  religion  and  virtue  make 
a  story  more  honoured  in  the  omission  than  in  the  telling. 
In  1057  the  Macedonian  dynasty  came  to  an  end,  and  was 
succeeded  by  tliat  of  the  Comnenans. 

During  centuries  of  misgovernment  the  central  strength 
of  the  Eastern  Em])ire  had  grown  lens  and  less,  and  the 
capital  was  no  longer  regarded  with  |)ride  or  affection  l>y 
the  better  part  of  its  people.  Every  department  of  the 
government  had  fallen  into  incompetent  hands.  No 
council  of   state  existed,   and  many  ancient  usages  were 


62  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

abandoned,  —  such,  for  example,  as  the  census-making, 
which  had  formerly  occurred  every  fifth  year.  Even  the 
possibility  of  this  was  doubtful,  as  the  once  excellent 
roads  to  the  distant  provinces  were  now  impassable. 
Money  that  had  been  devoted  to  the  maintenance  of  har- 
bours and  the  outposts  of  the  empire,  was  now  lavished  on 
the  palace  and  its  pageants.  The  TIi})podrumc  had  become 
luxurious  and  magnificent  in  the  extreme,  and  the  Church 
excited  the  pride  and  admiration  of  the  people  by  its 
splendours,  while  no  attempt  was  made  to  arouse  religious 
emotions.  In  short,  both  in  the  capital  and  in  the  outly- 
ing country,  where  agriculture  was  at  its  lowest  ebb,  the 
conditions  were  equally  ruinous. 

During  this  period  of  decadence  had  arisen  a  class  of 
citizens  who  earnestly  desired  a  stronger  and  more  repu- 
table government.  They  were  men  of  great  wealth,  who, 
disgusted  by  the  conditions  that  they  could  not  remedy, 
had  withdrawn  from  the  court,  and  lived  on  their  estates  in 
lordly  independence.  These  aristocrats  now  endeavoured 
to  establish  a  better  government,  with  a  fixed  order  of 
succession;  and  so  well  did  they  make  their  plans,  that  a 
single  battle  placed  them  in  power,  and  the  first  Com- 
ncnan  ruler  was  raised  to  the  throne,  while  his  subjects 
hoped  for  an  improvement  in  the  empire  which  was  never 
realized. 

The  great  Byzantine  families  claimed  descent  from 
Roman  ancestors.  The  Comnenans  were  of  this  class, 
and  had  large  possessions  on  the  Asiatic  shore  of  the 
Bosphorus.  They  had  been  little  known  in  public  life. 
Manuel  Comnenus  had  been  a  favourite  at  the  court  of  Basil 
II.,  and  the  aristocrats  had  chosen  his  son,  Isaac,  as  their 
emperor.  His  reign  began  in  1057,  and  in  the  two  short 
years  of  its  continuance  he  made  a  brave  attempt  to  reform 
the  abuses  which  had  preceded  him;  but  with  his  suc- 
cessors, the  old  conditions  returned,  and  during  the  cen- 


DECADENCE   OF   CONSTANTINOPLE.  63 

tury  and  a  half  which  fuUowed  the  iuU  of  the  Macedonian 
dynasty,  the  story  of  Constantinople  was  one  of  increas- 
ing weakness  and  decay,  which  can  best  be  told,  for  our 
jiurpose,  by  the  mention  of  a  few  important  facts,  rather 
tlian  by  a  detailed  account  of  its  disintegration. 

During  the  last  half  of  the  eleventh  century  the  great 
movement  of  the  Crusades  was  inaugurated,  and  exercised 
a  world-wide  influence.  Pilgrims  to  the  Holy  Land  had 
traversed  Constantinople  or  its  provinces  in  great  num- 
bers before  the  actual  organization  of  crusades.  One 
band  of  seven  thousand,  led  by  the  Archbishop  of  Mentz, 
passed  through  the  capital  in  1064.  It  will  readily  be 
seen  that  such  armies  must  have  been  a  heavy  tax  on  the 
inhabitants  along  their  line  of  travel.  An  itinerary  still 
exists,  showing  the  route  from  Bordeaux  to  Jerusalem  by 
way  of  Constantinople,  which  was  made  as  a  guide  to  pil- 
grims as  early  as  the  fourth  century,  and  was  used  by  vast 
numbers  during  the  succeeding  age  of  pilgrimages  and 
crusades. 

For  a  time  the  leaders  of  these  movements  showed  some 
respect  to  the  Byzantine  Empire  because  it  was  a  Christian 
state;  "but  when  ambition  and  fashion,  rather  than  re- 
ligious feeling,  led  men  to  the  holy  wars,  the  Eastern 
Christians  suffered  more  from  the  Crusaders  than  the 
Mohammedans."  ^ 

The  increasing  power  of  the  Saracens  in  the  eleventh 
century,  and  their  persecutions  of  the  pilgrims  to  Jerusa- 
lem, aroused  the  indignation  of  all  Europe,  and  even  Pope 
Gregory  VII.  contemplated  leading  a  crusade  in  person. 
At  length,  one  army  after  another  was  gathered  under 
princely  leaders,  and  marched  through  Byzantine  territory, 
prepared  to  seize  what  they  wished,  if  not  granted  them. 
The  em])erors  speeded  tliem  on  their  way  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble, promising  stipplics  iuk]  jH-otection,  and  rejoicing  wlien 

1  Finlay. 


64  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

these  hordes  had  crossed  the  narrow  sea  to  the  Asiatic 
shore,  where  weary  deserts  and  summer  heats,  as  well  as 
Saracen  enemies,  worked  their  fatal  effects  on  the  men  of 
northern  climes.  Wars  arose  between  the  later  Crusaders 
and  the  Eastern  Christians,  from  which  endless  confusion 
and  difficulties  resulted.  A  most  important  measure  of 
the  Comnenan  dynasty  was  the  making  of  commercial 
treaties  with  the  Venetians,  Genoese,  and  Pisans,  by 
which  they  were  granted  extensive  privileges.  The  Vene- 
tians were  especially  favoured,  and  were  permitted  free 
trade  in  all  kinds  of  merchandise  in  all  parts  of  the 
empire  south  of  the  Black  Sea.  In  fact,  this  people  soon 
had  a  monopoly  of  trade,  which  was  resented,  not  only  by 
the  merchants  of  Constantinople,  but  by  those  of  other 
Italian  cities  as  well.  Another  remarkable  privilege 
which  was  bestowed  on  the  Venetians  was  the  right  to 
levy  a  tribute  on  the  Amalphians  who  had  settled  at  Con- 
stantinople. The  best  wharves,  too,  were  devoted  to  the 
Venetians ;  and  being  thus  favoured,  they  became  so  over- 
bearing that  it  was  soon  necessary  to  limit  their  ever- 
encroaching  power. 

To  do  this,  treaties  were  made  with  other  commercial 
cities,  thus  playing  one  against  another.  The  Pisans 
were  granted  privileges  far  less  important  than  those  of 
the  Venetians,  but  still  such  as  enabled  them  to  build 
up  a  trade  which  partially  neutralized  the  Venetian 
monopoly. 

Finally,  the  Genoese  were  more  liberally  treated,  though 
obliged  to  pay  a  duty  of  four  per  cent  on  both  exports  and 
imports.  They  were  allowed  a  khan  on  the  Stamboul 
side  of  the  Golden  Horn,  and  a  quarter  on  the  opposite 
shore,  which  gradually  developed  into  the  important 
suburb  of  Galata. 

As  might  have  been  foreseen,  there  were  constant  rival- 
•  ries  and  disturbances  amonc;  these  Italian  traders.     The 


DECADENCE   OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  65 

Pisans  were  especially  troublesome.  At  times  these 
colonists  combined  in  order  to  inflict  some  injury  upon 
the  Eastern  Erapiie«  Again,  they  quarrelled  with  each 
other,  and  not  infrequently  they  were  expelled  from  the 
country,  although  new  treaties  were  soon  made,  and  they 
were  permitted  to  return. 

The  outcome  of  all  this  was  mutual  distrust  between  all 
parties  concerned ;  and  as  the  Byzantine  government  was 
constantly  declining,  the  Italians  grew  bolder,  and  re- 
venged themselves  for  any  real  or  alleged  wrongs,  by 
ravaging  the  coasts  and  islands  of  the  empire,  which  were 
sadly  unprotected  by  the  inefficient  Byzantine  marine. 
Pisan  and  Genoese  pirates  boldly  committed  their  depre- 
dations on  the  iEgean  Sea,  and  even  seized  Venetian 
vessels,  which  caused  great  trouble  for  the  emperors,  who 
were  utterly  unable  to  prevent  these  outrages.  Curiously 
enough,  all  differences  were  forgotten  at  times,  and  the 
three  Italian  powers  united  to  commit  piracies  on  the 
coasts  of  the  empire,  meantime  maintaining  a  strict 
neutrality  at  the  capital. 

The  state  of  Constantinople  and  of  the  whole  empire 
grew  more  and  more  hopeless,  and  the  way  was  fully  i)re- 
pared  for  its  conquest  by  any  powerful  nation.  All  offi- 
cials, and  even  members  of  the  imperial  family,  were 
easily  briljcd.  The  stores  of  the  fleet  were  boldly  sold  by 
the  admiral.  Pirates  flourished  on  all  the  surrounding 
seas,  and  even  the  Emperor  Alexius  III.  sent  out  priva- 
teers on  his  own  account.  Wealthy  citizens  were  kid- 
napped, and  large  ransoms  demanded  for  their  freedom. 
Venetians  and  Pisans  fought  in  the  streets  of  the  capital, 
which  was  threatened  by  Bulgarians  and  other  enemies 
without,  and  the  whole  emi)ire  was  rapidly  falling  to 
pieces. 

To  all  these  depressing  conditions  the  splendour,  luxury, 
and  gaiety  of  the  court  afforded  a  striking  contrast.     The 

6 


66  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Empress  Euphrosyne  was  the  moving  spirit  in  the  affairs 
of  the  empire,  as  well  as  in  the  pleasures  of  the  nobles, 
over  whom  her  beauty  and  her  talents  obtained  a  powerful 
influence. 

"  Her  political  energy,  ber  superstitious  follies,  and  her  uiag- 
nificent  hunting-parties  excited  the  wonder  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Constantinople  ;  and  as  she  rode  along  with  a  falcon  perched 
on  her  gold-embroidered  glove,  and  encouraged  the  dogs  with 
her  voice,  and  the  curvetiugs  of  her  horse,  the  crowd  eujoyed 
the  splendid  spectacle,  and  only  grave  men  like  Nicetas  thought 
that  she  was  wasting  the  revenues  which  were  required  to  de- 
fend the  empire."  ^ 

It  is  difficult  to  believe  the  authoritative  accounts  that 
have  come  down  to  us  of  the  Constantinople  of  the  tenth, 
eleventh,  and  twelfth  centuries.  Its  splendours  seem  to 
belong  to  the  capital  of  a  magician,  and  to  the  home  of 
fairies  and  the  poetic  creatures  of  a  dreamland,  rather 
than  to  the  men  and  women  who  actually  built,  inhabited, 
and  destroyed  this  wonder  of  the  world.  The  amount  of 
its  revenues  is  as  astonishing  and  inconceivable  as  the 
wonders  wrought  by  Aladdin's  lamp,  and  all  revenues 
from  far  and  near  passed  directly  into  the  imperial 
treasury.  Its  customs  duties  alone  amounted  to  20,000 
pieces  of  gold  daily ;  and  in  spite  of  the  maintenance  of 
armies  and  the  cost  of  wars,  the  building  of  this  splendid 
city,  the  constant  provision  of  games  and  amusements  for 
the  people,  the  luxury  of  a  court  that  cannot  be  exag- 
gerated, and  a  church  that  exceeded  all  else  in  magnifi- 
cence and  cost,  the  sovereigns  accumulated  personal 
fortunes  of  tons  of  pure  gold.  The  Empress  Theodora 
laid  by  for  her  son  109,000  pounds'  weight  of  gold  and 
300,000  pounds  of  silver.  Basil  11.  had  the  tidy  little 
sum  of  200,000  pounds  of  gold,  and  other  rulers  and  high 

^  Fin  lay. 


DECADENCE  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.         67 

officials  followed  these  eminent  examples  with  so  good  a 
will  that  their  accumulations  were  beyond  computation. 

During  eleven  centuries  the  imperial  palace  became 
more  and  more  magnificent  under  a  succession  of  sov- 
ereigns, each  one  of  whom  strove  to  add  something  to  its 
splendours. 

"A  mass  of  buildings  between  S.  Sophia  and  the  Marmora, 
and  occupying  a  site  whicli,  from  its  choice  by  Constantine 
down  to  the  present  day,  has  been  renowned  at  once  for 
wonderful  beauty  and  for  the  many  and  great  events  with 
which  its  history  is  crowded."  ^ 

Its  gardens  descended  by  many  terraces  to  the  shore  of  the 
sea;  its  three  domes  were  stately  and  commanding;  its 
roof  of  gilded  brass  glittering  beneath  the  clear  blue  skies, 
under  such  sunshine  as  is  only  experienced  in  the  Orient, 
impressed  men  of  the  colder,  grayer  Western  World,  as 
if  the  supreme  power  had  ordained  an  especial  illumina- 
tion for  this  favoured  capital.  This  resplendent  roof  was 
su))ported  by  pillars  of  Italian  marble,  the  walls  between 
1  icing  incrusted  with  the  same  material  in  beautiful 
colours,  and  mingled  with  the  exquisite  Oriental  alabaster. 
The  extent  of  this  palace  may  be  imagined  when  it  is 
remembered  that  it  contained  five  churches,  while  its 
endless  courts,  corridors,  and  apartments,  finished  in 
mosaics  composed  of  precious  stones  and  marbles  from  all 
(piarters  of  the  globe,  were  spacious  enough  to  contain  the 
multitude  of  splendid  paintings,  statues,  vases,  and  mag- 
nificent trophies,  of  an  inconceivable  variety,  which  had 
been  gathered  from  all  the  known  countries  of  the  globe. 

Imagination  fails  to  conceive  what  this  must  have  been 
when  crowded  by  the  aristocrats  and  court  officials  in  their 
gorgeous  costumes.  Cloth  of  gold  abounded,  as  well  as 
embroidery  and    stuffs  of  the  richest  silk;  and  the  best 

'  Pears,  Fall  of  Constantinople. 


68  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

authorities  state  that  no  other  court  of  the  world,  at  any 
period,  luis  equalled  that  of  Constantinople  in  splendour. 
The  dress  of  all  who  frequented  the  palace  was  carefully 
regulated  according  to  rank  and  official  position;  but  the 
members  of  each  class  vied  with  one  another  in  the  mag- 
nificence of  the  material  and  the  value  of  the  jewels  they 
were  permitted  to  wear.  Even  the  weapons  they  cait-ried 
were  covered  with  gold  and  silver.  Their  helmets  were 
of  precious  metals,  and  their  horses  were  adorned  as 
richly  as  themselves.  Every  possible  device  was  used  to 
display  the  wealth  of  the  emperor  in  his  personal  sur- 
roundings. There  were  canopies  of  the  richest  purple, 
thrones  of  solid  gold,  and  a  variety  of  furniture  made  of 
precious  metals  and  covered  with  priceless  tapestries. 
Artificial  plants  and  trees  with  golden  leaves,  and  auto- 
matic birds  incrusted  with  rich  jewels  made  a  part  of  the 
costly  bric-a-brac  of  this  imperial  palace  in  the  city  of 
the  Golden  Horn ;  and  there  were  also  two  lions  of  natu- 
ral size,  of  massy  gold,  which  roared  like  beasts  of  the 
forests,  while  the  birds  warbled  their  mechanical  notes. 

The  ceremonials  of  the  court  were  rigid  and  burden- 
some. The  monarch  wore  a  high  cap  of  some  rich  mate- 
rial, covered  with  jewels.  This  cap  was  surrounded  by  a 
horizontal  circle  of  gold,  from  which  rose  two  arches  sur- 
mounted by  a  cross  or  globe  of  gold,  while  costly  pearl 
lappets  hung  on  each  side.  His  purple  buskins  were 
a  special  symbol  of  his  rank:  and  other  portions  of  his 
dress,  varied  for  different  ceremonies,  were  carefully 
made  more  costly  than  any  subject  was  permitted  to 
wear. 

So  tedious  was  the  etiquette  of  dress  and  customs  in  the 
Byzantine  court  that  apparently  neither  pleasure  nor  com- 
fort could  have  resulted  from  it  to  any  one  connected  with 
it.  A  long  procession  of  officials  were  interposed  between 
the  emperor  and  the  people,  which  made  access  to  his 


DECADENCE  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.         69 

person  almost  impossible,  even  for  those  who  had  impor- 
tant and  sometimes  vital  information  for  his  ear  alone. 
This  seclusion  in  the  midst  of  a  circle  of  high  officials 
gave  the  appearance  of  godlike  importance  to  the  sov- 
ereign, and  all  possible  methods  were  used  to  deepen  this 
impression.  Even  the  chief  men  of  the  government  and 
court  approached  him  with  abject  humility,  fell  prostrate 
before  him,  and  kissed  his  feet. 

Outside  the  palace,  opposite  S.  Sophia,  there  was  a 
square  decorated  with  a  fountain,  its  basin  being  lined 
with  silver.  At  stated  seasons  this  basin  was  filled  with 
exquisite  fruits,  which  the  populace  were  permitted 
to  take.  This  afforded  a  tumultuous  spectacle;  and 
the  emperor  viewed  it  from  a  resplendent  throne,  which 
was  elevated  to  a  lofty  height,  reached  by  a  marble 
staircase. 

"  Below  the  throne  were  seated  the  officers  of  his  guards,  the 
magistrates,  the  chiefs  of  the  factions  of  the  circus  ;  the  inferior 
steps  were  occupied  by  the  people,  and  the  place  below  was 
covered  with  troops  of  dancers,  singers,  and  pantomimists. 
The  square  was  surrounded  by  the  hall  of  justice,  the  arsenal, 
and  the  various  offices  of  business  and  pleasure  ;  and  the  pitrple 
chamber  was  named  from  tlie  annual  distribution  of  robes  of 
scarlet  and  purple  by  the  hand  of  the  empress  herself."  ^ 

Whenever  the  emperor  left  the  palace,  it  was  made  the 
occasion  of  an  impressive  demonstration.  The  streets 
through  which  he  rode  were  cleared  and  cleaned.  Flowers 
were  strewn  along  his  route,  and  the  houses  bordering  it 
were  hung  with  rich  draperies.  Chants  in  his  praise  were 
sung  antiphonally  by  singers  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
street;  and  if  he  went  to  a  church,  he  was  received  by 
the  Patriarch  and  clergy  with  imposing  ceremonies 
and  a  magnificent  display  of  sacerdotal  costumes  and 
symbols. 

1  Gibbon. 


70  CONSTANTINOrLE. 

As  early  as  the  tcntli  century  the  city  was  broken  up 
and  made  light  and  cheerful  by  open  squares  and  places, 
which  afforded  a  charming  contrast  to  the  narrow,  gloomy 
lanes  and  streets  of  European  cities.  Its  churches  were 
imposing  in  their  exterior  architecture,  and  oppressively 
grand  in  their  services.  The  houses  of  the  wealthy  were 
in  keeping  with  the  imperial  palace ;  while  the  extent  of 
the  quays,  warehouses,  and  factories,  together  with  the 
enormous  number  of  merchant  vessels  lying  in  the  midst 
of  the  city,  on  the  Golden  Horn,  afforded  the  most  aston- 
ishing mercantile  panorama  in  the  world. 

This  immense  commercial  element  brought  men  of 
affairs  to  Constantinople  from  all  nations,  and,  as  we 
have  said,  the  factories  of  the  Italians  necessitated  the 
setting  apart  of  whole  quarters  of  the  town  for  their  use, 
which  gave  the  appearance  of  there  being  other  cities 
enclosed  within  the  grand  whole  of  the  capital.  The 
faithful,  stolid  Varangians,  the  British  guard  of  the 
imperial  person  and  his  palace,  and  the  strange,  half- 
barbarous  soldiers  recruited  from  the  surrounding  coun- 
tries, together  with  Greek  sailors,  Russians,  Copts, 
Persians,  Armenians,  Moslems,  and  Latins,  who  were 
visiting  Constantinople,  continually  afforded  a  scenic 
effect  such  as  would  shame  the  most  elaborate  spectacles 
of  our  day. 

In  various  parts  of  the  city  were  thousands  of  human 
beings  who  virtually  had  no  homes.  Their  lives  began 
and  ended  in  the  streets;  and  the  imperial  dole  which  fed 
them  and  lengthened  their  wretched  days,  might  well  be 
considered  an  al)Solute  curse.  They  made  a  show  of 
reverence,  kneeling  before  shrines  and  kissing  images; 
but  they  also  bawled  and  cheered  at  the  circus,  and  fur- 
nished spectators  wherever  criminals  were  hanged,  be- 
headed, blinded,  or  mutilated  by  having  noses,  tongues, 
ears,  hands,  and  feet  cut  off. 


TECADENCE  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  71 

In  its  early  days  there  existed,  in  this  capital,  a  middle 
class,  which  quite  disappeared.  The  most  potent  factor 
in  producing  this  result  was  the  utter  abandonment  of  a 
government  service,  all  places  of  any  worth  being  bestowed 
on  the  tools  and  favourites  of  the  emperor  and  the  officials. 
Another  influence  to  this  end  was  the  increasing  contempt 
for  the  profession  of  arms,  on  account  of  the  attitude  of 
the  Patriarch  and  clergy  towards  it,  soldiers  being  ex- 
cluded from  the  sacrament  for  three  years. 

Again,  trade  and  commerce  were  so  abandoned  to  for- 
eigners as  to  discourage  the  native  merchants,  who  grad- 
ually sank  into  poverty;  and  although  Constantinople, 
even  in  its  decay,  was  superior  to  any  Western  centre  in 
its  artistic  and  mechanical  productions,  and  while  there 
were  always  superior  engineers  and  skilful  artificers  to  be 
found  there,  their  numbers  so  decreased  as  to  limit  their 
production  to  the  wants  of  the  aristocratic  and  wealthy 
classes  which  had  grown  up  while  their  humbler  neighbours 
had  almost  disappeared.  Through  court  favour,  these  had 
acquired  enormous  wealth  and  power,  and  were  as  venial 
in  character  as  time-servers  and  sycophants  must  be  in 
all  ages  and  nations. 

Naturally,  in  the  midst  of  such  conditions,  the  Church 
had  not  retained  its  purity  and  power.  Costly  churches 
and  luxuriant  monasteries  were  almost  num])erless.  Fasts, 
feasts,  ceremonies,  and  the  idolatry  of  saints  and  relics 
were  so  continually  en  evidence  as  to  simulate  a  devoted 
fiiety,  and  the  simple-hearted  among  this  people  l)elieved 
that  a  conscientious  observance  of  these  forms  would 
assure  them  a  place  in  heaven. 

The  splendid  ritual  of  the  Church  was  accompanied  by 
the  most  magnificent  music,  which  exercised  a  marvellous 
and  enduring  influence  over  the  sensitive  Greek  nature; 
but  of  the  power  and  meaning  of  anything  worthy  the 
name  of  Christianity,  there  was  not  a  shadow  remaining 


72  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

in  Constantinoi)le  at  the  beginning  of  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury. -The  spirit,  the  aspiration,  the  glory  of  this  capital 
had  departed ;  and  it  remained,  with  all  its  natural  and 
artistic  beauty  and  grandeur,  a  hollow,  heartless,  ruined 
city,  ready  to  become  the  prey  of  men  stronger  and  more 
earnest  than  its  debased  and  incompetent  emperors  and 
generals. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

THE    LATIN    CONQUEST,    LAST    EMPERORS     OF     CONSTANTINOPLE, 
AND    ITS   SUBJECTION    BY    THE    OTTOMAN    TURKS. 

1204-1453. 

THE  story  of  the  Foui-th  Crusade,  from  its  preaching 
by  Fulk  of  Neuilly  to  its  end,  is  as  full  of  romantic 
incident  and  interest  as  the  most  exciting  story  of  adven- 
ture that  has  been  written.  But  its  adoption  by  Thibaut 
ni.,  Count  of  Champagne,  Simon  de  Montfort,  Baldwin, 
Count  of  Flanders,  the  Counts  of  Blois  and  Saint  Pol, 
Boniface,  Marquis  of  Montferrat,  Geoffrey  of  Villehar- 
douin,  —  who  wrote  its  history  from  da^^  to  day,  —  their 
bargain  with  Dandolo,  the  wonderful  old  Doge  of  Venice, 
for  their  conveyance  in  the  ships  of  the  republic,  their 
embarking,  the  taking  of  Zara,  and  many  other  circum- 
stances,  do  not  concern  the  history  of  Constantinople. 

The  association  of  this  Crusade  and  this  capital  began 
when  all  its  leaders  and  warriors,  being  still  in  Zara, 
were  joined  by  Alexius  IV.,  son  of  the  Comncnan 
Emperor,  Isaac  Angelus.  Alexius  had  escaped  from 
Constantinople  when  his  father  was  deposed  and  blinded, 
and  had  sought  help  from  the  sovereigns  of  Europe,  by 
which  he  might  regain  his  empire. 

When  Alexius  related  all  the  story  of  his  father's  suffer- 
ings, and  pictured  the  condition  of  the  JJyzantine  empire; 
when  he  implored  the  Crusaders  —  before  going  to  Pales- 
tine—  to  restore  Constantinople  to  its  legitimate  rulers; 
abijve  all,  when  he  promised  to  pay  them  three  and  a  half 
millions  sterling,  and  to  send  an  army  with  them  to  the 


74  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Holy  Land  at  his  own  expense,  —  these  soldiers  of  the 
Cross  and  above  all  the  Venetians,  favoured  an  assent  to 
his  request. 

To  reinstate  the  Comnenans,  to  restore  the  Church,  to 
Avin  endless  glory,  and  be  richly  paid  for  this,  and  then 
to  recover  the  Holy  City,  was  a  dazzling  programme  to 
the  leaders  of  the  Crusade.  To  the  soldiers  it  was  less 
attractive.  They  were  hoping  to  secure  everlasting  bliss 
by  their  service  to  God,  in  rescuing  His  holy  places  from 
infidels;  and  when,  having  already  been  much  delayed, 
this  new  plan  was  adopted,  they  deserted  in  large  num- 
bers, and  found  their  way  back  to  their  homes  or  directly 
to  the  Holy  Land.  The  Doge  favoured  the  scheme.  He 
knew,  better  than  his  companions,  the  enormous  commer- 
cial advantages  which  would  be  gained  by  the  conqueror 
of  Constantinople,  —  the  command  of  the  entire  trade  of 
the  Orient. 

Thus,  when  ift  the  spring  of  1203,  four  hundred  and 
forty  vessels,  carrying  40,000  soldiers,  sailed  up  the  Sea 
of  Marmora  to  the  very  walls  of  Constantinople,  there  was 
a  great  variety  of  aims  and  opinions  in  the  minds  of  the 
Crusaders. 

The  Greeks,  remembering  that  they  had  previously 
repulsed  their  enemies,  and  believing  their  fortifications 
to  be  impregnable,  flocked  to  the  walls  to  gaze  upon  this 
unusual  fleet  with  curiosity  and  confidence,  trusting  to 
their  walls  and  towers,  their  Varangians  and  numberless 
soldiers,  to  repulse  the  attacks  of  the  strangers,  although 
their  navy  was  ruined  and  reduced  to  twenty  galleys, 
little  better  than  useless,  which  lay  in  the  Golden  Horn. 

The  Crusaders  landed  near  Scutari,  and  the  emperor 
sent  at  once  to  demand  their  purpose  in  coming  hither. 
When  he  was  told  that  they  had  come  to  restore  the  right- 
ful ruler  to  his  throne,  and  invited  him  to  resign  his 
crown  at  once,  he  and  his  court  were  thrown  into  dire 


THE   LATIN   CONQUEST.  75 

confusion.  The  Crusaders  hastened  to  transport  cavalry 
across  the  Bosphorus,  and  easily  routed  the  Greeks  who 
were  sent  to  attack  them. 

The  occupation  of  the  Golden  Horn  was  most  desirable 
to  the  Crusaders.  It  was  closed  by  an  enormous  chain 
attached  to  towers  on  either  side ;  but  the  Venetians,  by 
means  of  their  heaviest  transport,  armed  with  gigantic 
shears,  broke  through  this  barrier,  and  the  port  was  soon 
filled  with  their  vessels.  It  was  then  agreed  that  Dandolo, 
with  his  •fleet,  should  assail  the  capital  from  the  water, 
while  the  Flemings  and  French,  under  their  noble  com- 
manders, essayed  an  attack  by  land.  This  last  was  made 
and  fought  with  desperate  courage,  but  was  repulsed, 
while  the  Venetians  were  most  successful.  After  wonder- 
fully brave  and  skilful  devices  and  most  resolute  fighting, 
bridges  were  lowered,  Venetians  crowded  to  the  walls, 
and  soon  twenty-five  towers,  with  the  intervening  battle- 
ments, were-  held  by  the  Crusaders.  The  streets  were 
more  easily  defended;  but  fires  were  kindled,  and  the 
Greeks  hastily  fled  before  them. 

When  Dandolo  learned  of  the  repulse  of  the  land  forces, 
he  ordered  his  ships  to  proceed  to  their  sui)port;  but  the 
cowardly  emperor  had  recalled  his  soldiers,  and  thrown 
away  his  opportunity  of  defeating  his  enemies.  That  very 
night  this  wretched  creature  deserted  his  people,  and, 
securing  as  much  money  and  jewels  as  his  haste  pc/- 
mitted,  fled  with  a  few  friends. 

When  at  dayljrcak  the  flight  of  the  emperor  was  dis- 
covered, a  certain  Constantino,  a  eunuch,  ])ersuaded  the 
Varangians  to  l)ring  the  blind  old  Isaac  II.  from  liis 
prison,  and  replace  liim  on  his  throne.  They  also  pro- 
claimed his  son  Alexius  as  his  colleague. 

The  Ci'usiidcrs  were  inuch  distui-hcd  at  finding  the 
object  for  which  they  were  fighting  so  |)cacefully  accom- 
plished without  afl'ording  any  reason  for  the  sack  of  this 


76  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

vast  treasure-house.  The  Venetians  sent  at  once  to 
acquaint  the  old  emperor  with  the  promises  which  Alexius 
had  made,  and  declared  their  purpose  of  retaining  him  in 
their  care  until  his  father  consented  to  redeem  these 
})romises.  Isaac  at  once  assented  to  this,  and  a  triumphal 
entiy  into  the  city  followed,  Alexius  riding  between 
Dandolo  and  Count  Baldwin.  There  was  no  enthusiasm 
among  the  populace.  One  cm))eror  had  been  as  bad  as 
another  for  so  long  a  time  that  the  people  were  indifferent 
to  all  alike;  and  when  they  learned  of  the  enormous  sum 
which  Alexius  had  promised  his  Western  friends,  there 
was  little  hopefulness  in  the  outlook.  To  satisfy  this 
claim,  the  palace  was  stripped  of  its  treasures.  Even  the 
vessels  from  the  altars  and  the  silver  frames  of  the  sacred 
pictures,  as  well  as  the  precious  objects  which  had  been 
given  to  the  monasteries,  were  sacrificed;  and  yet  all  these 
were  insufficient. 

Meanwhile  the  old  emperor  was  closeted  with  astrolo- 
gers and  monks,  Avho  gave  him  the  hope  that  he  would 
recover  his  sight  and  live  to  be  very  old.  The  young 
Alexius  was  feasting  and  gambling  with  the  knightly 
Crusaders ;  while  the  enormous  army  that  he  had  brought 
with  him  had  to  be  fed,  and  had  made  their  camps  in  the 
most  fertile  suburbs,  demanding  provision  for  themselves 
and  their  horses. 

The  only  encouragement  for  the  Greeks  was  in  the 
thought  that  the  strangers  had  decided  to  depart  at  the 
end  of  September;  but  in  August  a  great  misfortune  befell 
them.  Some  Flemish  soldiers  were  supping  at  the  house 
of  a  Flemi^i  merchant,  and,  being  drunk,  they  proceeded 
to  loot  a  church  and  some  warehouses  near  at  hand.  The 
people  rose  against  them,  and  in  the  struggle  a  fire  was 
set,  and  a  terrible  conflagration  ensued,  which  lasted  two 
nights  and  a  day.  A  district  a  mile  and  a  half  long, 
from   the  Golden  Horn  to  Marmora,    was  reduced  to  a 


THE  LATIN  CONQUEST.  77 

charred  and  smouldering  waste.  The  fire  lapped  up 
palaces  and  warehouses  alike;  and  many  precious  works 
of  ancient  art  and  classic  manuscripts  were  burned,  as 
well  as  the  immense  wealth  of  the  merchants  which  was 
stored  here.  So  great  was  the  wrath  of  the  people  that 
fifteen  thousand  Latins  \vlio  had  long  dwelt  at  Constanti- 
nople in  safety,  were  forced  to  flee  to  the  Crusaders  for 
protection. 

The  destruction  of  so  much  wealth  made  it  impossible 
to  fulfil  the  promises  of  Alexius,  and  he  was  foi'ced  to  con- 
fess that  he  could  not  pay  the  money.  Dandolo  heard  this 
without  anger,  and  replied  that  he  would  give  more  time; 
he  would  remain  six  months  longer.  As  this  would  neces- 
sitate feeding  his  soldiers  and  sailors,  it  afforded  a  cheer- 
less prospect  to  the  Greeks.  What  should  they  do  ?  They 
must  submit  or  fight,  and  they  could  not  be  expected  to 
do  the  latter.  In  January  the  Venetians  precipitated 
matters  by  announcing  that  unless  they  were  paid  at  once 
they  should  attack  the  city.  At  this  the  people  revolted ; 
and  on  January  25,  1204,  at  evening,  they  assembled  the 
nobles  and  clergy,  and  commanded  them  to  elect  a  new 
emperor.  Days  of  confusion  followed,  as  no  one  could  be 
found  who  would  accept  the  office.  Just  then  Isaac  II. 
died,  and  a  young  man  was  proclaimed  against  his  will. 

Alexius  was  in  despair,  and  arranged  to  admit  the 
Crusaders  into  the  city;  but  while  he  awaited  them,  the 
chaml)erlain  Marzoufle  —  thus  named  from  his  beetling 
eyebrows  —  rushed  in  to  warn  Alexius  to  flee  from  an 
approaching  mob,  and  pretended  to  conduct  him  to  safety. 
Leading  him  to  a  dungeon,  he  left  him;  and  he  was  soon 
after  strangled,  while  Marzoufle  became  emperor,  and 
called  himself  Alexius  V.  He  was  of  the  aristocratic 
family  of  Ducas,  which  had  already  furnished  two 
emperors.  lie  was  the  bravest  soldier  of  Constantinople, 
and  made  untiring  efforts  to  repair  its  fortifi(;ations. 


78  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

He  patrolled  the  streets  by  night  and  day  with  a  mace- 
of-arms  in  his  hand,  endeavouring  to  restore  order,  and  to 
discipline  the  troops  by  attending  their  exercises.  He 
was  the  only  man  who  could  influence  the  people  for  good; 
but  when  he  insisted  that  all  must  fight,  and  undertook  to 
recruit  and  train  an  army,  he  was  hated ;  and  when  he  led 
these  compulsory  soldiers  to  face  the  Crusaders,  they 
turned  and  fled  as  one  man. 

Three  months  after  Marzoufle  had  usurped  the  throne, 
the  Crusaders  determined  to  attack  the  city  from  the 
Golden  Horn.  The  first  attempt  was  unsuccessful;  but 
when  renewed  on  April  12,  they  accomplished  much,  and 
fought  one  of  the  most  memorable  battles  of  history. 
However,  when  evening  fell,  they  feared  that  months 
would  be  required  to  complete  the  conquest  of  so  strong  a 
city.  Another  fire  destroyed  the  eastern  part  of  the  capi- 
tal, and  Villehardouin  wrote  that  the  three  fires  caused 
by  the  Crusaders  destroyed  more  buildings  than  existed 
in  the  three  largest  cities  of  France. 

Marzoufle  fled  that  night,  and  the  people  flocked  to 
S,  Sophia  to  elect  another  emperor.  Their  choice  fell  on 
Theodore  Lascaris,  the  son-in-law  of  Alexius  IH.  He  en- 
deavoured to  persuade  the  Varangians  to  fight  and  to  organ- 
ize an  army ;  but  failing  in  this,  he  too  fled,  and  before 
dawn  three  emperors  of  Constantinople  were  refugees. 

In  the  morning  a  procession  of  the  populace,  bearing 
crosses  and  images,  supplicated  the  forbearance  of  their 
conquerors.  The  Count  of  Flanders  established  himself 
in  the  palace  of  Blachernae,  the  Marquis  of  Montferrat 
occupied  the  Bucoleon,  and  the  Byzantine  Empire  was  now 
under  the  rule  of  the  Latins. 

"  Guards  were  then  placed  over  the  imperial  treasury  and  the 
arsenal,  but  the  troops  and  sailors  were  allowed  to  plunder  the 
city  without   restraint.     The   insolence  of   victory  was  never 


THE   LATIN   CONQUEST.  79 

more  haughtily  displayed  ;  every  crime  was  perpetrated  with- 
out shame.  The  houses  of  the  peaceful  citizeus  were  plundered, 
their  wives  dishonoured,  and  their  children  enslaved.  Churches 
and  monasteries  were  rifled  ;  monuments  of  religious  zeal  were 
defaced;  horses  and  mules  were  stabled  in  temples  whose  archi- 
tectural magnificence  was  unequalled  in  tlie  rest  of  Europe.  The 
ceremonies  of  the  Greeks  were  ridiculed  ;  the  priests  were  in- 
sulted ;  the  sacred  plate,  the  precious  shrines  in  which  the  relics 
of  mart^'rs  and  saints  were  preserved,  the  rich  altar-cloths,  and 
the  jewelled  ornaments  were  carried  off.  The  soldiers  and  their 
female  companions  made  the  church  of  S.  Sophia  the  scene  of 
licentious  orgies ;  and  Nicetas  relates  that  '  one  of  the  priest- 
esses of  Satan,'  who  accompanied  the  Crusaders,  seated  herself 
on  the  Patriarch's  throne,  sang  ribald  songs  before  the  high 
altar,  and  danced  in  the  sacred  edifice  to  the  delight  of  the  in- 
furiated soldiery.  .  .  .  The  age  was  one  of  fierce  wars  and 
dreadful  calamities  ;  but  the  sack  of  Constantinople  so  far  ex- 
ceeded everything  else  that  happened,  both  in  its  glory  and  its 
shame,  as  to  become  the  favourite  theme  of  popular  song  and 
dramatic  representation  throughout  the  known  world.  Ville- 
hardouin  says  that  every  Crusader  occupied  the  house  that 
pleased  his  fancy ;  and  men  who  the  day  before  were  in  abso- 
lute poverty,  suddenly  found  themselves  possessed  of  wealth 
and  living  in  luxury."  ^ 

We  have  noted  how  from  the  foundation  of  the  city  it 
was  adorned  wKli  beautiful  works  of  ancient  art,  brought 
from  Greece;  and  the  number  of  these  had  been  constantly 
increased,  while  other  splendid  and  costly  objects  had 
been  acquired  by  tRe  Byzantines  or  made  especially  to 
decorate  their  capital.  Lists  of  magnificent  statues  that 
were  now  ruthlessly  destroyed  or  carried  away  arc  given 
i)y  historians,  but  are  too  long  to  be  repeated  here.  Tlic 
four  bronze  horses  that  adorn  the  Basilica  of  H.  Marco  in 
Venice  are  mementos  of  this  sack  of  Constantinople, 
they  having  been  brought  from  Chios  to  adorn  tlie  Ilijipo- 

'  Fiiilay. 


80  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

drome.  But  few  of  the  inagiiificent  bronzes,  however, 
escaped,  for  they  were  broken  up  and  cast  into  the  melt- 
ing-pot by  the  tons'  weight,  with  as  little  regard  for  their 
exquisite  beauty  and  art  as  if  these  Venetians,  Flemings, 
and  Frenchmen  had  been  the  most  barbarous  barbarians 
who  had  ever  existed. 

As  we  have  said,  the  tombs  of  the  emperors  in  the  church 
of  the  Holy  A])0stlcs  from  the  time  of  Juslinian  were 
broken  open  and  plundered  of  all  valuables.  The  splendid 
robes  of  the  priests  were  put  on  the  horses  of  the  crusad- 
ing Christians  ;  the  icons  were  torn  down  ;  relics  were 
stri{)ped  from  their  beautiful  caskets  and  scattered  on 
the  ground,  or  carried  away  whole  to  be  sold  in  other 
lands;  chalices  were  robbed  of  their  jewels  and  used  as 
drinking-cups;  and  these  pious  thieves  continued  to  plun- 
der and  destroy  until  even  their  spirit  of  vandalism  was 
glutted. 

The  Latin  leaders  at  length  took  thought  for  establish- 
ing order  in  this  capital  which  they  had  overcome.  They 
executed  a  few  of  their  own  people  as  examples,  hoping 
thus  to  arrest  the  frightful  license  which  prevailed.  A 
solemn,  public  thanksgiving  was  ordered  in  S.  Sophia, 
where  God  was  praised  that  by  his  aid  twenty  thousand 
men  had  overpowered  this  mighty  city;  and  "God  wills 
it  "  was  fervently  shouted  again  and  again. 

A  proclamation  was  issued  promising  protection  to  the 
inhal)itants,  and  many  left  the  capital.  Another  order 
commanded  that  all  the  booty  should  be  deposited  in  three 
of  the  principal  churches,  where  it  was  divided  according 
to  an  agreement  between  the  chiefs  of  the  Crusade.  The 
booty  consisted  of  — 

"  sacred  plate,  golden  crowns,  images  of  saints,  shrines  of 
relics,  candelabra  of  precious  metals,  statues  of  ancient  gods, 
precious  ornaments  of  Hellenic  art  and  of  Byzantine  jewellery, 
which  were  heaped  up  with  coined  money  from   the  imperial 


THE  LATIN  CONQUEST.  81 

treasury,  aud  with  silk,  velvet,  embroidered  tissues,  and  jewels 
collected  from  the  warehouses  of  merchants,  from  the  shops  of 
goldsmiths,  and  by  domestic  spoliation."  ^ 

Naturally  a  vast  amount  had  been  stolen  by  the  soldiers 
or  concealed  by  the  inhabitants,  while  an  equal  portion 
of  the  splendid  riches  of  the  capital  had  perished  by  fire ; 
but  even  so,  that  which  was  gathered  in  these  three 
depositories  was  valued  at  300,000  marks,  each  one  of 
which  was  equal  to  a  pound  weight  of  silver,  or  about 
eighty-seven  dollars  of  our  money,  the  whole  sum  being 
worth  a  little  more  than  twenty-three  million  dollars. 
Besides  all  this  there  were  ten  thousand  horses  and 
mules.  The  Count  of  Flanders,  in  a  letter  to  the  Pope, 
declared  that  the  wealth  of  Constantinople  was  equal  to 
that  of  all  the  cities  of  Western  Europe  combined. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  for  placing  a  Latin  emperor 
on  the  Byzantine  throne,  and  after  much  consideration 
the  choice  fell  on  Baldwin,  whose  Flemish  soldiers  far 
outnumbered  those  of  the  French.  The  Venetians  did 
not  desire  this  honour.  With  their  usual  clearness  they 
reflected  that  he  who  ruled  must  protect  his  empire ;  and 
Dandolo  could  be  jjlaced  in  no  position  superior  to  that 
which  he  licld  as  Doge  of  the  Republic  of  Venice. 

"  The  personal  character  of  Baldwin,  his  military  accomplish- 
ments, his  youth,  power,  and  virtue,  all  pointed  him  out  as  the 
leader  most  likely  to  enjoy  a  long  and  prosperous  reign.  His 
piety  and  tlie  purity  of  his  private  life  commanded  the  respect 
of  the  Greeks,  who  vainly  hoped  to  enjoy  peace  under  his  gov- 
ernment. He  was  one  of  the  few  Crusaders  who  paid  strict 
attention  to  his  vows  of  abstinence  ;  and  a  singular  proclama- 
tion, which  he  thought  it  necessary  to  repeat  twice  a  week,  for- 
bidding all  who  were  guilty  of  iucontinency  to  sleep  within  the 
walls  of  his  palace,  shows  that  he  knew  that  the  majority  of  his 
countrymen  easily  forgot  their  vows.'"'^ 

1  Finlay.  -  Ibid. 

0 


82  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Of  the  exiled  emperors,  Theodore  Lascaris  was  estab- 
lished as  ruler  of  Nictea.  Alexius  III.  and  Marzoufic 
united  their  forces  in  the  hope  of  preventing  the  Latins 
from  adding  to  the  territory  they  had  already  conquered, 
which  was  nearly  the  same  as  the  present  Roumelia.  Mis- 
fortune had  not  made  these  men  better.  Alexius  seized 
and  blinded  Marzoufle,  and  gave  him  over  to  the  Latins, 
who  sentenced  him  to  be  hurled  from  the  top  of  the 
Theodosian  column  one  hundred  and  forty-seven  feet  high, 
—  the  base  is  still  to  be  seen  about  a  mile  west  of  the 
Hippodrome,  —  and  dashed  to  pieces,  to  the  satisfaction 
of  thousands  of  spectators,  who  saw  in  this  punishment 
the  fulfilment  of  an  old  ppophecy  that  a  perfidious  emperor 
should  thus  die. 

Baldwin  began  his  reign  by  conciliating  the  Pope  and 
the  King  of  France.  He  sent  promises  of  aid  to  Pales- 
tine, together  with  the  gates  of  Constantinople  and  the 
chain  which  once  barred  his  way  into  the  Golden  Horn, 
as  proofs  of  his  power;  but  he  treated  his  neighbours 
haughtily,  and  when  the  King  of  the  Bulgarians,  who 
was  of  the  Latin  Church,  sent  ambassadors  to  congratu- 
late the  new  emperor  upon  his  conquest  of  the  Greeks, 
Baldwin  committed  the  folly  of  assaulting  the  ambassa- 
dors, and  replied  that  King  John  must  himself  touch  the 
imperial  footstool  with  his  forehead  before  he  could  be 
treated  as  a  friend,  • 

When  the  Greeks  saw  that  many  of  the  Latin  troops 
were  sent  to  protect  other  portions  of  the  empire,  they 
began  to  plot  revolts,  in  which  they  were  joined  by  the 
Bulgarians,  and  they  in  turn  by  the  savage  Comans,  who 
brought  14,000  men  into  the  contest,  who  were  more  mad 
and  hungry  for  murder  and  pillage  than  the  Greeks  and 
Bulgarians  themselves. 

Baldwin,  in  his  fearless  confidence  in  himself  and  his 
followers,    and    l^elicving  his    enemies   to    be    cowards, 


LAST   EMPERORS.  83 

despised  the  cautious  counsels  of  Dandolo,  and  through 
his  folly  permitted  himself  and  many  of  his  troops  to  be 
entrapped  in  a  place  from  which  there  was  no  escape,  as 
his  enemies  completely  surrounded  him.  Dandolo  and  a 
remnant  of  the  Latins  heroically  gained  the  capital,  but 
the  fate  of  Baldwin  was  never  known.  The  wildest  stories 
were  circulated- concerning  his  sufferings;  but  the  only 
known  fact  is  that  a  year  later  the  King  of  the  Bulgarians 
wrote  to  the  Pope  that  Baldwin  was  no  longer  alive. 

In  August,  1206,  more  than  a  year  after  the  defeat  of 
Baldwin,  his  brother  Henry  consented  to  become  the 
Emperor  of  Constantinople.  His  reign  of  ten  years  was 
characterized  by  a  moderation  which  ruled  wisely  over 
Church  and  State.  His  chief  military  success  wns  an 
attack  on  the  Bulgarian  force  of  40,000,  when  his  own 
numbered  less  than  a  quarter  as  many.  Henry  undertook 
this  action  to  succour  the  Greeks,  who  had  chosen  the 
Bulgarian  rule,  and,  being  abused  beyond  endurance, 
sought  the  help  of  the  Latins  they  had  deserted. 

This  emperor  devoted  his  whole  thought  to  the  reforma- 
tion of  the  government,  and  instituted  many  admirable 
measures,  which  made  the  imperial  power  equal  to  that 
of  the  Church.  Having  no  children,  he  left  his  author- 
ity and  place  to  his  sister,  Yolandc,  wife  of  Peter  de 
Courtenay. 

This  noble  was  crowned  Emperor  of  the  East  by  Pope 
Honorius  HL,  and  in  order  to  present  himself  to  his  sub- 
jects in  state  suita]>le  to  a  sovereign,  he  sold  and  mort- 
gaged his  estates,  and  succeeded  in  inducing  one  hundi-ed 
and  forty  knights  and  more  than  live  thousand  soldiers  to 
attend  him  to  his  capital  on  the  Bosphorus.  He  then 
applied  to  the  Venetians  for  conveyance  to  Constanti- 
nople, and  they,  as  a  part  of  the  price  for  this  service, 
demanded  that  he  sliould  reduce  Durazzo  for  them.  Not 
succeeding  in  this,  the  transport  was  refused  l)y  the  Vcne- 


84  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

tians.  He  then  ao-rccd  with  Theodore,  the  ruler  of 
Durazzo,  that  his  forces  should  be  conducted  overland  to 
Constantinople.  As  might  easily  have  been  foreseen,  the 
Greeks  did  not  neglect  so  excellent  an  opportunity  for 
treachery.  In  the  mountains  Peter  de  Courtenay  was 
attacked  by  the  soldiers  of  Theodore,  who  killed  the 
Europeans  or  led  them  captive,  while  their  leader  was  a 
prisoner  two  years  before  he  was  put  to  death. 

A  period  of  confusion  that  we  will  not  try  to  make  clear 
now  ensued  in  Constantinople;  and  nothing  of  interest 
to  us  occurred  until,  in  1228,  John  of  Brienne,  already 
titular  King  of  Jerusalem,  consented  to  share  the  throne 
of  Constantinople  with  the  young  Baldwin  II.,  son  of 
Peter  de  Courtenay. 

The  Eastern  Empire,  reduced  to  a  tithe  of  its  former 
extent,  no  longer  held  any  revenue-producing  territory, 
and  from  its  few  remaining  dukedoms  and  small  fiefs 
there  was  little  or  nothing  received  in  tribute.  The 
army  and  navy  had  diminished  proportionately  with  the 
territory;  and  he  who  would  attempt  the  restoration  of 
any  important  part  of  the  former  wealth  and  grandeur  of 
Constantinople  had  a  herculean  task  in  prospect. 

John  of  Brienne,  during  the  first  two  years  of  his  reign, 
was  singularly  inactive,  for  a  soldier  of  his  acknowledged 
bravery  and  prowess.  But  when  he  learned  that  the 
Emperor  Vataces,  the  successor  of  Theodore  Lascaris, 
was  making  an  alliance  with  Agau,  King  of  the  Bulga- 
rians, he  knew  that  this  union  could  have  but  one  end  in 
view,  —  the  destruction  of  his  power ;  and  although  he 
probably  knew  that  the  extinction  of  the  Latin  power  in 
the  East  could  not  be  long  delayed,  John  of  Brienne  was 
not  a  man  to  be  defeated  without  a  contest;  and  in  this 
struggle  he  proved  to  be  like  Samson  when  he  slew  his 
thousand  with  the  jawbone  of  an  ass,  —  for,  having  but 
a  hundred  and   sixty   knights,    and    about  two  thousand 


LAST   EMPERORS.  85 

soldiers,  he  sallied  boldly  forth,  routed  and  put  to  flight 
the  army  of  the  allies,  numbering  100,000  men;  and  of 
their  three  hundred  ships  he  captured  twenty-five,  and 
brought  them  safel}'  to  port. 

That  bold  historian,  Gibbon,  who  was  familiar  with 
large  figures  and  tales  of  astounding  heroism,  declares 
that  he  trembled  as  he  wrote  the  above  story.  Various 
writers  have  compared  the  old  soldier  to  Ajax,  Hector, 
Judas  Maccabasus,  and  other  heroes,  real  and  mythologi- 
cal;  but  if  this  be  an  "ower  true  tale,"  it  would  seem 
that  a  favourable  comparison  with  John  de  Brienne  would 
be  a  compliment  to  one  and  all  of  them.  The  following 
year  he  again  defeated  his  united  enemies,  and  his  sub- 
jects began  to  regret  deeply  his  advanced  age,  as  well 
they  might,  could  they  have  foreseen  the  weakness  of  the 
coming  emperor. 

Baldwin  II.  might  well  be  called  the  Imperial  Beggar. 
He  travelled  over  Europe  asking  for  money,  and  received 
a  small  sum  from  England  alone.  Louis  IX.  was  devot- 
ing his  life  and  money  to  delivering  Jerusalem.  Frederick 
II.,  Baldwin's  brother-in-law,  could  scarcely  be  expected 
to  aid  a  sovereign  who  was  loyal  to  the  church  which 
had  excommunicated  him;  and  the  Pope  could  give  the 
emperor  no  coin  save  that  of  indulgences,  of  which  few 
people  of  that  day  felt  the  need.  At  length,  by  the  sale 
of  his  French  estates,  Baldwin  gathered  an  army  of  30,000 
men,  with  which  he  reconquered  about  sixty  miles  of  the 
coimtry  immediately  surrounding  his  capital.  But  to 
what  purpose  can  a  monarch  conquer  territory  which  he 
can  neither  occupy  nor  defend  ? 

Very  soon  he  could  not  pay  his  soldiers,  and  so  great 
was  the  poverty  of  his  palace  that  its  fires  were  fed  from 
the  sale  of  lead  sti'i))i)ed  from  the  churches.  His  son  was 
in  Venice,  a  hostage  for  his  debts;  and  finally,  under  such 
stress  of  want  ns  this,  Ilaldwin  resolved  to  sell  the  holy 
relics  whir-h  hnd  boon  spared  in  the  sack  of  1204. 


86  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

The  most  important  of  these,  tlio  Crown  of  Thorns,  was 
already  mortgaged  to  the  Venetians  for  a  large  sum, 
which  Baldwin  was  unable  to  pay;  and  as  the  Venetians 
could  riglitfully  claim  this  crown,  ho  cleverly  decided  to 
present  it  to  the  King  of  France.  Precious  relics  could 
be  pawned  or  given  away,  btit  not  sold,  as  it  was  not 
allowable  to  fix  a  price  for  them.  Frederick  11.  com- 
plaisantly  permitted  the  Crown  of  Thorns  to  pass  through 
his  kingdom,  and  Louis  IX.  made  a  present  to  Baldwin  of 
about  900,000  dollars!  besides  which  Baldwin  had  the 
satisfaction  of  having  outwitted  the  Venetians. 

A  large  and  authentic  piece  of  the  True  Cross  was  a 
second  gift  from  the  emperor  to  the  French  King,  who 
placed  it  in  La  Sainte  Chapelle,  where  it  proved  its  genu- 
ineness by  working  miracles  until  the  time  of  the  League, 
when  it  disappeared,  and  has  not  since  been  heard  of. 
Baldwin  now  promptly  received  a  second  present  from 
Louis  of  about  180,000  dollars.  So  encouraging  had  these 
transactions  proved  that  the  Swaddling  Clothes  of  the 
Divine  Child,  the  Lance  which  pierced  His  Side  when  on 
the  Cross,  the  Chain  which  bound  His  Hands,  the  Sponge 
from  which  He  drank,  the  Rod  of  Moses,  and  a  portion  of 
the  Skull  of  John  the  Bai)tist  were  all,  one  after  the 
other,  freely  given  to  the  pious  Louis.  What  suitable 
return  could  be  made  for  such  treasures  except  in  pure 
gold  ?     And  this  was  given  Baldwin  in  generous  sums. 

And  unless  these  relics,  so  sacred  in  the  eyes  of  mil- 
lions, were  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks,  it  was 
time  that  they  were  in  the  keeping  of  a  Christian  power 
strong  enough  to  guard  them.  It  has  been  said  that  the 
only  result  of  the  Latin  Conquest  of  Constantinople  was 
the  transference  of  relics  from  the  East  to  the  West.  To 
those  who  believe  in  the  efficacy  of  relics,  —  and  in  the 
Middle  Ages  all  Christians  did,  —  it  must  be  a  matter  of 
profound  thankfulness  that  these  sacred  objects  were  not 
left  to  fall  into  the  liands  of  iMoliammedans. 


LAST  EMPERORS.  87 

But  was  this  the  only  result  ?  If  so,  the  wily  policy  of 
Dandolo  was  far  less  important  than  my  history  teaches 
me.  To  this  conquest  I  should  attribute  not  only  the 
frightful  material  losses  from  the  terrific  conflagrations, 
the  destruction  of  vast  stores  of  wealth,  and  the  theft  of 
splendid  objects  passing  computation,  but  also  the  destruc- 
tion of  commerce  and  its  deflection  to  the  Italian  Repub- 
lics, ft  caused  the  disappearance,  even  the  extinction, 
of  the  ancient  nobility ;  it  added  to  the  abasement  of  the 
already  pitiable  lower  classes;  it  sounded  the  death-knell 
of  scholarship  and  learning,  and  imposed  upon  the  empire 
a  ritual  and  religion  so  strange  and  unwelcome  to  the 
Greeks  that  it  extinguished  the  little  religious  sentiment 
or  superstition  that  remained  to  comfort  this  demoralized 
nation  which  the  fiery  old  Doge  had  placed  under  Frankish 
rule.  -lie  had  taken  away  all  that  they  had  of  material, 
moral,  intellectual,  and  s))iritual  worth,  and  gave  them 
nothing  with  which  to  solace  themselves  or  to  replace 
what  they  had  lost. 

The  money  which  Baldwin  received  from  France  was 
soon  exhausted,  and  he  was  as  unable  to  pay  his  soldiers 
as  before.  The  throne  rested  solely  on  the  fame  of  the 
l)a8t  grandeur  of  the  enijure.  Had  the  weakness  of  the 
Latins  l)ccn  suspected,  the  end  would  have  come  much 
earlier  than  it  did. 

When  Michael  Paleologus  came  to  the  throne  of  Nicsea, 
in  1259,  he  determined  to  overthrow  the  Latins.  lie 
fortified  Thrace,  and  expelled  all  Latins  from  that  portion 
of  his  realm.  Having  in  mind  its  former  reputation,  and 
being  ignorant  of  its  hopeless  condition,  he  proceeded 
against  the  ca[)ital  as  cautiously  as  he  could  have  done 
against  John  of  Briennc  himself. 

The  Latins  having  received  aid  from  Venice  resolved 
to  attack  the  Greeks,  and  sent  out  soldiers  and  galleys  to 
take  the  port  of  Daphnusia,   leaving  the  capital  almost 


88  CONSTANTINOPLEo 

defenceless.  This  afforded  an  opportunity  to  certain 
traitors  within  the  walls;  and  before  the  Latins  were 
awake  on  a  fine  summer  morning,  the  Greeks  were  in 
possession  of  the  fortifications  and  ready  to  storm  the 
imperial  palace.  Baldwin  made  no  attempt  to  fight  or 
capitulate.  Leaving  behind  his  sceptre,  crown,  and 
sword,  he  fled  to  the  port  and  embarked  for  Euboea.  He 
lived  twelve  years  more  in  absolute  obscurity.  His  son 
Philip,  however,  assumed  the  title  of  Emperor  of  Constan- 
tinople, which  empty  and  questionable  honour  was  claimed 
by  his  descendants  through  two  and  a  half  centuries. 
The  good  King  Rene  of  Anjou  was  one  of  the  last  to  add 
this  to  his  other  titles. 

When  the  Greeks  found  that  they  had  taken  an  empty 
palace,  they  bore  the  royal  insignia  in  mock  solemnity 
through  the  streets.  As  the  citizens  opened  their  houses, 
and  learned  that  in  their  sleep  they  had  been  peacefully 
restored  to  a  Greek  sovereign,  their  joy  and  enthusiasm 
made  the  city  ring  with  shouts  of  "Long  live  Michael, 
long  live  the  Emperor  of  the  Romans !  " 

The  Venetians  were  permitted  to  remove  their  families 
and  their  goods  to  their  own  vessels,  and  then  the  houses 
of  their  quarter  were  burned.  When  the  troops  returned 
from  Daphnusia,  a  truce  was  made;  and  soon  after  the 
entire  Latin  fleet  sailed  away  and  bore  to  the  world  the 
news  that  the  Latin  empire  had  ceased  to  exist,  in  which 
fact  little  interest  was  manifested. 

The  Italian  powers,  with  their  instinct  for  trade,  made 
an  alliance  with  the  Greeks,  and  were  assigned  the  quarter 
of  Pera  in  consideration  of  their  promise  of  naval  aid, 
should  the  capital  be  assailed.  These  mcrcha.nts  were 
soon  the  only  vital  power  in  the  midst  of  the  ever-increas- 
ing weakness  of  the  empire. 

The  fate  which  was  surely  advancing  upon  Constanti- 
nople—its conquest  by  the   Ottoman  Turks  —  was   still 


SUBJECTION  BY  THE  OTTOMAN  TURKS.       89 

deferred  through  nearly  two  centuries.  Every  possible 
means  was  used  to  induce  the  Christian  sovereigns  of 
Europe,  and  especially  the  Pope,  to  protect  their  vantage- 
ground  in  the  East,  and  preserve  it  from  falling  into  the 
hands  of  the  Mohammedans.  But  the  Western  rulers 
were  occupied  with  affairs  nearer  home,  and  the  time  had 
passed  when  pope  or  priest  could  organize  a  crusade  for 
the  protection  of  the  Church. 

One  ruler  of  Constantinople  after  another  retired  to  a 
monastery,  while  a  more  sanguine  man  filled  his  place, 
but  to  follow  his  example  in  the  end.  Now  and  then  a 
sedition  ai-ose,  and  the  capital,  threatened  by  Turks  with- 
out, was  torn  by  factions  within.  The  Turks  gradually 
encroached  upon  the  neighbouring  islands  and  shores,  and 
skilfully  surrounded  the  coveted  possession  with  such  a 
net  as  must  insure  their  final  success.  In  their  advance 
the  Moslems  neither  admired  nor  protected  the  relics  of 
civilization.  The  splendid  city  of  Ephesus  was  razed  to 
the  ground,  and  the  once  powerful  and  splendid  Byzantine 
Empire  was  completely  desolated. 

The  reign  of  Michael  Paleologus  ended  in  1282;  and 
after  a  dreary  succession  of  incompetent  rulers,  John 
Cantacuzene  came  to  the  throne  in  1347.  He  shamelessly 
made  an  alliance  with  the  Moslems,  and  gave  his  daughter 
in  marriage  with  Orchan,  the  son  of  the  great  Othman, 
the  founder  of  the  dynasty  which  bears  his  name,  and  has 
furnished  thirty-four  rulers,  in  direct  descent,  to  the 
Ottoman  Empire  in  six  hundred  years, — a  unicpic  expe- 
rience, —  no  other  family  having  thus  flourished  in  any 
other  nation. 

One  condition  of  the  alliance  between  Orchan  and  his 
fatlier-in-law  permitted  the  Turk  to  sell  his  prisoners  of 
war  as  slaves  in  Constantinople.  A  crowd  of  naked 
Christians  of  both  sexes  and  all  ages  —  virgins  and 
matrons,  monks  and  priests,  the  humble  and  the  noble  — 


90  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

were  thus  exposed  for  public  sale  in  the  market  of  the 
capital,  where  the  whip  was  freely  used  to  excite  the  pity 
of  those  who  still  had  sufficient  means  to  redeem  such 
sufferers;  but  these  were  few  in  number,  and  most  of  the 
unfortunates  were  led  away  to  a  terrible  bondage. 

Amurath  I.,  the  son  and  successor,  of  Orchan,  and  the 
founder  of  the  order  of  the  Janissaries,  had  such  control 
over  John  Paleologus,  the  so-called  emperor,  and  of  his 
sons,  that  one  can  but  wonder  why  the  absolute  reign  of 
the  Turk  in  Constantinople,  in  his  own  name,  was  so  long 
deferred.  Manuel,  a  son  of  the  above-named  John,  was 
a  hostage  in  the  hands  of  the  Moslems  at  the  time  of  his 
father's  death,  and  seems  to  have  been  possessed  of  a 
spirit  and  temper  such  as  had  not  been  shown  by  his  race 
for  generations. 

He  escaped,  and  seated  himself  on  what  was  by  courtesy 
called  the  throne  of  Constantinople ;  and  although  he  was 
commanded  to  resign  his  power  to  Bayezid,  the  Ottoman 
ruler,  Manuel  succeeded  in  arousing  the  zeal  of  the  West 
in  his  behalf,  and  France,  Germany,  Hungary,  and  Bur- 
gundy sent  soldiers  who  fought  bravely  for  him.  At 
the  l)attle  of  Nicopolis,  however,  Bayezid  repulsed  these 
combined  forces,  and  made  the  Count  of  Nevers  and  a 
goodly  number  of  French  nolilcs  prisoners.  Had  Bayezid 
not  been  in  danger  from  the  great  Tamerlane,  he  would 
undoubtedly  have  completed  the  overthrow  of  the  Greek 
power  immediately  after  this  engagement,  when  he  had 
defeated  an  army  of  100,000  Christians,  who  had  proudly 
boasted  that  should  the  sky  fall  they  could  uphold  it  with 
their  lances. 

While  Manuel  traversed  Europe,  and  even  visited  Eng- 
land seeking  friends  and  aid,  Tamerlane  rendered  him 
great  assistance  by  overthrowing  Bayezid  and  holding  him 
a  prisoner  in  an  iron  cage,  as  the  story  is  told.  Constan- 
tinople was  not  again  besieged  by  the  Moslems  until  twenty 


SUBJECTION  BY  THE   OTTOMAN   TURKS.  91 

years  had  passed.  Then  Murad  II.  led  against  it  an 
army  said  to  number  200,000  men.  The  capital  had  been 
put  in  a  better  state  for  defence ;  and  the  clumsy  cannon, 
now  first  used  by  the  Turks,  did  no  harm  to  the  besieged. 
A  celebrated  dervish  led  an  assault,  which  was  most  dis- 
astrous to  the  Janissaries,  of  whom  a  thousand  were  slain, 
while  the  Greeks  suffered  little  loss. 

Fortunately  Murad  was  recalled  to  his  own  territory, 
and  shortly  after  a  truce  was  concluded  between  the 
emperor  and  the  Sultan,  which  enabled  Manuel,  by  the 
payment  of  tribute,  to  pass  his  remaining  years  with  no 
fear  of  the  Turks.  This  was  continued  during  the  next 
reign,  until  1448. 

In  1453  Mohammed  II.  began  the  world-renowned  siege 
which  gained  for  him  the  title  of  "the  Conqueror," 
although  Gibbon  calls  him  "the  great  Destroyer. "  The 
conquest  of  the  Byzantine  capital  was  the  realization  of 
the  dream  of  Othman,  — that  the  Crescent  should  dash  the 
crown  of  Constantino  to  the  ground,  and  rule  over  its 
splendid  capital  and  goodly  territory. 

Mohammed  I.  had  already  built  the  Anadoln  Hisar  — 
castle  of  Anatolia  —  on  the  Asiatic  shore  where  the 
Bosphorus  is  narrowest,  as  a  threat  to  the  safety  of  Con- 
stantinople. Mohammed  II.  now  erected  the  Ruraelia 
Hisar  —  castle  of  Roumclia  —  on  the  Eurofjcan  shore  just 
opposite  the  first.  It  wns  constructed  in  three  months. 
Two  thousand  masons  and  labourers  were  employed,  and 
into  its  walls  —  tliirty  f(>et  in  thickness  —  were  built  altars 
and  pillars  of  Cbristian  churches.  The  ordnance  i)laced 
on  its  chief  tower  was  powerful  enough  to  throw  stone 
balls  weighing  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  ton;  and  when 
all  was  completed,  a  garrison  of  four  hundred  men  were 
placed  in  this  castle,  and  toll  was  demanded  from  every 
passing  vessel. 

This   action  was   a   breach    of  the  truce  between  the 


92  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Powers ;  but  to  the  emperor's  remonstrances  Mohammed 
replied:  "Have  you  the  power  or  right  to  question  what 
I  do  in  my  own  country  ?  The  Asiatic  shore  of  the 
Bosphorus  is  mine,  and  my  people  dwell  there.  The 
European  shore  I  can  take  with  right,  since  the  Europeans 
have  deserted  it."  He  revealed  his  whole  purpose  when 
he  added,  "My  resolutions  surpass  the  ambitions  of  my 
predecessors." 

Naturally  the  people  of  Constantinople  were  terrified  at 
the  prospect  before  them.  Had  their  fortifications  been 
impregnable,  there  were  not  men  enough  to  defend  them. 
The  half  million  of  inhabitants  of  the  time  of  the  Latin 
conquest  had  dwindled  to  a  meagre  one  hundred  thousand, 
all  told,  and  of  these  not  more  than  eight  thousand  were 
efficient  soldiers.  The  small  outlying  territory  which 
still  belonged  to  the  Greeks  was  sparsely  inhabited  by 
poor  men,  who  were  no  reliance  in  time  of  war;  and 
neither  within  the  city  nor  without  did  any  public  spirit 
exist. 

The  streets  of  the  capital  were  now  bordered  with  half- 
ruined  edifices.  The  exquisite  marbles  and  mosaics 
with  which  they  were  formerly  incrusted,  had  been  torn 
away,  and  sold  to  Venetians  and  Genoese.  Some  of  them 
may  still  be  seen  in  distant  cities,  sad  relics  of  the 
splendour  of  Byzantine  glory.  Famine  and  pestilence  had 
repeatedly  done  their  deadly  work  on  the  people ;  and  after 
all  the  misfortunes  they  had  suffered  through  their  own 
rulers,  from  the  barbarous  Northern  nations  and  the 
Turks,  as  well  as  from  the  natural  causes  which  they 
considered  the  curse  of  God,  it  would  have  been  miracu- 
lous had  they  shown  resolution  in  repulsing  a  foe  to  whom 
they  must  finally  succumb,  as  they  knew  all  too  well. 

The  moral  tone  of  the  Greeks,,  too,  was  inferior  to  that 
of  the  Turks ;  and  although  they  claimed  to  be  the  only 
Orthodox  Christians,  the  Greeks  had  neither  honour  nor 


SUBJECTION  BY  THE  OTTOMAN  TURKS.  93 

courage.  Their  Christianity  was  made  up  of  processions 
and  ceremonials,  of  pharisaical  exclusiveness  and  hatred 
of  the  Latin  Church,  as  was  well  expressed  by  the  Grand 
Duke  Notanas,  when  he  said,  "  I  should  welcome  the 
turban  of  the  Sultan  to  Constantinople  more  gladly  than 
the  tiara  of  the  Pope."  The  historian  Ducas,  speaking  of 
their  blind  bigotry,  declares  that  ''they  would  not  have 
listened  to  an  angel  from  heaven  if  he  bade  them  make 
their  peace  with  Rome." 

In  spite  of  the  general  poverty,  there  were  men  of  great 
wealth  among  the  Greeks,  who  would  perjure  themselves 
as  to  their  riches  rather  than  pay  mercenary  troops  for 
protection.  Many  citizens,  too,  of  all  classes  Hed  from 
the  city  that  they  believed  to  be  doomed  to  conquest;  and 
the  emperor  could  not  have  gathered  more  than  seven 
thousand  soldiers  had  not  the  Venetians  come  to  his  aid, 
while  John  Giustiniani,  the  Genoese,  and  John  Grant, 
the  German,  brought  a  few  ships  and  some  well-disciplined 
soldiers  to  protect  their  own  interests  in  Constantinople, 
as  well  as  to  aid  in  its  defence ;  and  thus  the  whole  num- 
ber of  the  force  within  the  walls  was  about  nine  thousand. 
When  we  remember  that  the  wall  which  must  be  manned 
extended  more  than  five  miles  on  the  land  side,  and  that 
the  port  and  several  miles  on  the  sea  required  special 
defence,  we  at  once  perceive  that  the  emj)eror  was  ho])e- 
lessly  weak,  and  that  only  a  miracle  could  avail  for  his 
safety  against  an  army  of  258,000  men,  well  provided 
with  the  munitions  of  war,  and  sui)[)lied  with  powerful 
cannon. 

Base  and  cowardly  as  the  Greeks  were,  their  emperor, 
Constantine  Palcologus,  merits  the  fame  of  a  hero.  We 
are  amazed  that  the  fate  of  the  city  was  averted  fifty-three 
days,  during  which  many  thousands  of  its  besiegers  were 
slain,  and  attack  after  attack  successfully  repulsed;  and,  in 
short,  the  heroism  of  the  emperor  and  his  advisers  may 


94  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

well  have  inspired  Gibbon  to  say,  "The  distress  and  fall 
of  this  last  Constantino  are  more  glorious  than  the  long 
prosperity  of  the  Byzantine  Csesars. " 

No  proper  account  of  this  memorable  siege  can  be  given 
in  the  space  at  our  command ;  and  to  one  who  has  read  the 
magnificent  description  by  Gibbon,  it  seems  a  literary 
crime  to  attempt  an  original  treatment  of  it,  above  all, 
since,  in  the  light  of  all  research  made  to  the  present  day, 
the  narrative  of  the  great  English  historian  is  found  to  be 
unusually  correct. 

The  Turk,  Sa'd-ud-din  —  translated  by  Mr.  Gibb  — 
employed  prose  in  rhyme;  and  while  his  facts  accord  with 
those  of  Gibbon,  his  point  of  view  gives  them  a  different 
colouring,  as  in  the  following:  — 

"  And  so  that  spacious  laud,  that  city  strong  and  grand,  from 
being  the  seat  of  hostility,  became  the  seat  of  the  currency ; 
and  from  being  the  nest  of  the  owl  of  shame,  became  the 
threshold  of  glory  and  of  fame.  Through  the  fair  efforts  of  the 
Moslem  King,  in  the  place  of  the  ill-toned  voice  of  the  paynim's 
bell,  were  heard  the  Mohammedan  screed,  and  the  five-fold 
chant  of  the  Ahmed!  creed,  no})le  of  rite  ;  and  the  harmony 
fair  of  the  call  to  prayer  on  the  ears  of  all  men  fell.  .  .  .  And 
the  mandate,  strong  as  fate,  of  the  Sultan  fortunate,  was 
supreme  in  the  ordnance  of  that  new  estate." 

Thus  did  Constantinople  become  the  capital  of  the 
Ottoman  Empire,  and  was  christened,  in  the  tongue  of  its 
new  rulers,  Istamboul. 


5^art  ^econti. 


CONSTANTINOPLE  UNDER   THE   OTTOMAN 
TURKS. 


In  the  lands  where  European  civilization  first  had  its  birth,  the  Euro- 
pean has  been  ruled  by  the  barbarian.  There  have  been  other  phe- 
nomena in  European  history  which  have  approached  to  this  ;  but  there 
is  none  that  supplies  an  exact  parallel. 

Edward  A.  Freeman,  D.C.L.,  LL.D. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

MOHAMMED  II.,    BAYEZID   II.,    SELIM    I.,    AND   SULEIMAN   THE 
MAGNIFICENT. 

1453-1566. 

ABOUT  mid-day,  on  April  29,  1453,  Mohammed  H. 
entered  Constantinople  as  its  conqueror.  His 
soldiers  were  already  scattered  throughout  the  city,  and, 
not  realizing  the  small  number  and  weakness  of  the  sur- 
viving inhabitants,  they  at  first  slew  all  whom  they  met ; 
but  soon  perceiving  that  they  need  fear  no  resistance, 
they  began  to  make  prisoners  of  their  conquered  foes. 

Meantime  a  large  detachment  of  the  troops  proceeded 
to  the  church  of  S.  Sophia,  where  men,  women,  and 
children  had  assembled  in  great  numbers,  —  it  is  said  to 
have  held  twenty  thousand,  —  and  these  the  Moslems 
apportioned  among  the  soldiers  as  slaves,  irrespective  of 
age  or  rank,  and  hurried  them  off  to  the  camp. 

"  In  the  space  of  an  hour  the  male  captives  were  bound  with 
cords,  the  females  with  thin  veils  and  girdles.  The  senators 
were  linked  with  their  slaves ;  the  prelates  with  the  porters  of 
the  church  ;  and  young  men  of  a  plebeian  class  with  noble  maids 
whose  faces  had  been  invisible  to  the  sun  and  their  nearest 
kindred.  In  tliis  common  captivity  the  ranks  of  society  were 
confounded ;  the  ties  of  nature  were  cut  asunder ;  and  the  in- 
exorable soldier  was  careless  of  the  father's  groans,  the  tears 
of  the  mother,  and  the  lamentations  of  the  children.  The 
loudest  in  their  vvailings  were  tlie  nuns,  who  were  torn  from 
the  altar  with  naked  bosoms,  outstretched  hands,  and  di- 
shevelled hair  ;  and  we  should  piously  l)elieve  that  few  could  be 

7 


98  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

tempted  to  prefer  the  vigils  of  the  harem  to  those  of  the  mon- 
astery. Of  these  uufortuiiate  Greeks,  of  these  domestic  animals, 
whole  strings  were  rudely  driven  through  the  streets  ;  and  as 
the  conquerors  were  eager  to  return  for  more  prey,  their  trem- 
bling pace  was  quickened  with  menaces  and  blows.  .  .  .  Above 
sixty  thousand  of  this  devoted  people  were  transported  from  tiie 
city  to  the  camp  and  tleet ;  exchanged  or  sold  accordiug  to  the 
caprice  or  interest  of  their  masters,  and  dispersed  in  remote  servi- 
tude through  the  provinces  of  the  Ottoman  Empire."  ^ 

The  Moslem  conquerors  now  emulated  the  Latins  in 
their  deeds  two  centuries  earlier.  Seizing  on  all  that 
was  valuable,  they  divided  it  among  the  soldiers  so 
quickly  that  all  traces  of  the  Christian  religion  soon  dis- 
appeared from  the  churches  of  the  capital.  Other  bands  of 
Turks  seized  the  warehouses,  and  stripped  them  of  their 
riches;  and  thus  the  plunder  of  the  city  proceeded  rapidly. 

Mohammed  II.,  surrounded  by  his  viziers,  pashas,  and 
guards,  rode  directly  from  the  Adrianople  Gate  towards 
S.  Sophia.  He  beheld  with  wonder  and  admiration  the 
city  which  he  now  ruled.  In  the  Hippodrome  the  Column 
of  the  Serpents  attracted  his  eye.  The  Turks  believed 
these  monsters  to  be  the  idols  or  talismans  of  the  city; 
and  the  Sultan,  with  a  single  blow  of  his  battle-axe, 
shattered  the  head  of  one  of  the  three. 

When  he  reached  the  sacred  temple,  he  ordered  the 
public  edifices  to  be  preserved,  and  struck  with  his 
scimitar  a  Moslem  who  was  destroying  a  mosaic ;  and  no 
desolating  conflagrations,  such  as  the  Latins  had  caused, 
were  permitted. 

Mohammed  immediately  ascended  the  high  altar,  and 
offered  both  prayers  and  thanksgivings.  He  then  announced 
that  this  splendid  temple  was  now  a  mosque,  where  all 
Moslems  could  pray,  and  commanded  that  from  that  time 
the   muezzin  should   summon  believers  in   the   name   of 

1  Gibbon. 


MOHAMMED  IL  ^       99 

God  and  his  Prophet,  according  to  the  customs  of  their 
religion. 

The  Sultan  then  commanded  search  to  be  made  for  the 
body  of  the  Emperor  Constantine.  As  he  had  fallen  in 
the  midst  of  great  numbers<bf  the  slain,  and  had  cautiously 
thrown  off  the  purple,  his  corpse  was  recognized  with 
difficulty;  but  was  at  length  identified  by  the  golden 
eagles  embroidered  on  his  buskins.  The  emperor's  head 
was  cut  off,  and  left  for  a  time  between  the  feet  of  the 
bronze  horse  of  the  equestrian  statue  of  Justinian  in  the 
Augusteum.  It  was  then  embalmed,  and  sent  to  the  chief 
cities  of  Asia  in  turn,  to  testify  to  the  overthrow  of 
Constantine,   and  the  prowess  of  Mohammed  II. 

When  the  Sultan  proceeded  to  the  palace,  he  witnessed 
desolation  and  decay,  not  only  along  the  route  by  which 
he  passed,  but  in  the  palace  itself,  the  largest  portion  of 
which  had  evidently  been  long  since  abandoned.  The 
mounds  of  the  slain,  which  were  seen  in  many  portions  of 
the  capital,  had  apparently  no  effect  on  the  mind  of  the 
young  conqueror ;  but  the  crumbling  city  and  the  deserted 
palace  impressed  him  deeply,  and  he  quoted  from  a  Persian 
poet  a  couplet  of  kindred  nature  with  that  prophecy  of 
II(»mcr's  which  Scipio  repeated  at  the  fall  of  Carthage: 
"The  spider's  wob  is  the  royal  curtain  in  the  palace  of 
Cresar;  the  owl  is  the  sentinel  on  the  watch-tower  of 
Afrasiab. " 

A  century  and  a  half  had  passed  since  Othman  —  the 
Bone-breaker  —  had  dreamed  his  prophetic  dream,  but 
now  fulfilled,  and  Constantinople  had  become  the  central 
jewel  in  the  ring  of  the  Turkish  Empire.  Its  conqueror 
was  but  twenty-three  years  old,  one  year  older  than 
Alexander  when  he  fought  at  the  Granicus,  and  three 
years  younger  than  Napoleon  at  Lodi,  The  fame  which 
Mohammed  later  gained  as  a  victorious  warrior  entitles 
him  to  be  ranked  with  these  imperial  conquerors. 


100     ..  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

In  the  first  intoxication  of  conquest,  power,  and  wine, 
Mohammed  committed  most  brutal  acts,  and  indulged  his 
lust  and  wrath  by  methods  that  wc  may  not  rehearse. 
On  the  occasion  of  his  first  banquet  in  Constantinople, 
a  row  of  bloody  heads  was  on  the  talile  before  him,  and 
great  numbers  of  Christians  were  executed  while  he  was 
in  his  most  savage  mood. 

But  his  instincts  as  a  sovereign  soon  asserted  them- 
selves. Ho  did  not  wish  to  rule  over  a  deserted  capital, 
and  he  realized  that  wisdom  would  suggest  the  retention 
of  the  Greeks  among  his  subjects.  Thus,  ten  days  after 
his  conquest,  he  proclaimed  himself  the  protector  of  the 
Greek  Church,  over  which  he  established  a  new  Patriarch, 
He  also  guaranteed  the  safety  of  the  Greeks,  who  returned 
to  their  homes  and  occupations,  and  soon  after  granted  a 
charter,  by  which  he  gave  many  privileges  to  the  Patriarch, 
his  Church,  and  his  people. 

We  have  seen  how  much  the  population  of  Constanti- 
nople had  decreased  before  the  siege,  and  after  it  there 
was  but  a  small  number  remaining.  With  each  new 
conquest  Mohammed  II.  sent  many  thousands  of  colonists 
to  his  capital ;  and  at  the  close  of  his  reign  —  about  a 
quarter  of  a  century  after  its  conquest  —  it  was  densely 
populated,  and  the  scene  of  such  activity  and  prosperity 
as  had  not  been  known  for  centuries  under  Greek  rule. 
In  place  of  Greeks  and  Latins  there  were  now  kServians, 
Bulgarians,  Albanians,  Turkomans,  and  other  Oriental 
peoples;  and  this  motley  multitude  so  changed  the  aspect 
of  the  city  that  it  bore  little  resemldancc  cither  to  tlie 
ancient  Byzantine  capital  or  to  the  New  Rome. 

Among  the  pronounced  traits  of  the  repulsive  character 
of  Mohammed  II.  was  his  secrecy  regarding  his  plans  and 
his  swiftness  in  executing  them.  To  an  officer  who  once 
asked  the  main  objects  of  his  campaign,  he  replied :  "  If 
a  hair  of  my  beard  knew  them,  I  would  pluck  it  out  and 


MOHAMMED   II.  101 

cast  it  into  the  fire."  Thus  no  one  knew  his  objective 
point,  when,  in  May,  1481,  he  was  mustering  his  forces, 
and  suddenly  expired  in  their  midst. 

One  wonders  how  tyrants  retain  their  power;  and  it  is 
incomprehensible  that  a  Sultan  who  murdered  as  many 
subjects  as  he  chose,  to  gratify  his  bad  temper,  should  not 
have  been  murdered  many  times  a  day  himself !  But  the 
followers  of  the  Prophet  place  small  value  on  life,  and 
believe  that  death  by  the  Sultan's  hand  or  command,  if 
suffered  without  resistance,  brings  all  the  joys  of  the 
Mussulman's  heaven,  for  which  they  long  as  for  no  earthly 
good.  This  carelessness  of  life  gives  an  appearance  of 
great  courage  to  the  Mohammedan  soldiers,  whose  real 
sentiments  are  those  of  pure  fatalism,  of  men  who  place 
no  value  on  life. 

The  wonderful  corps  of  Janissaries,  which  made  so 
important  a  part  of  the  Turkish  army,  was  a  peculiar 
institution,  and  exemplified  not  only  the  devotion  of  its 
followers  to  the  religion  of  Mohammed,  but  also  the  usual 
zeal  of  proselytes,  and  their  customary  hatred  of  those 
who  adhere  to  the  faith  which  they  have  forsaken.  They 
were  sons  of  Christians  educated  as  Mohammedans  from 
their  childhood.  This  order  was  established  in  the  middle 
of  the  fourteenth  century,  and  called  "  Yeni  askari,"  or 
"New  soldiers,"  which  name  was  changed  by  Europeans 
into  that  which  we  know.  At  first  this  corps  was  made  up 
of  the  sons  of  Christian  prisoners  alone;  but  was  later 
enlarged  by  tribute  children,  a  tax  of  this  sort  being- 
levied  on  the  Christian  subjects  of  the  Sultan.  This 
inhuman  tax  aroused  little  opposition  on  the  part  of  the 
CJ reeks,  who  suffered  so  keenly  from  famine  and  other 
liar(lshi])s,  that  to  see  their  children  well  cared  for,  well 
educated  and  fiaid  as  soldiers,  seemed  a  less  hard  fate 
than  frc()uently  Ijofell  the  boys  wlio  were  \c[t  at  homo. 
The  tritjute  of  children  was  not  abolished  until  1085. 


102  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

The  boys  were  taken  at  about  eight  years.  Their  edu- 
cation was  precisely  like  that  of  the  Ottoman  princes. 
"When  older,  they  were  divided  into  soldiers  and  men  of 
the  i)en,  the  latter  becoming  civil  officials  of  all  ranks, 
even  ministers  of  state.  Their  physical  culture  was  care- 
fully conducted,  and  they  were  all  instructed  in  the 
Turkish  language  until  they  were  sufficiently  developed, 
and  their  characteristics  were  so  pronounced  that  they 
could  be  properly  assigned  to  military,  civil,  or  even 
ecclesiastical  professions. 

"  In  the  slow  and  i)aiuful  steps  of  education,  their  characters 
and  talents  were  unfolded  to  adiscernhig  eye.  The  7iian,  naked 
and  alone,  was  reduced  to  the  standard  of  his  personal  merit. 
.  .  .  The  Ottoman  candidates  were  trained  by  the  virtues  of 
abstinence  to  those  of  action,  by  the  habits  of  submission  to 
those  of  command.  A  similar  spuit  was  diffused  among  the 
troops ;  and  their  silence  and  sobriety,  their  patience  and 
modesty,  have  extorted  the  reluctant  praise  of  their  Christian 
enemies.  Nor  can  the  victory  appear  doubtful  if  we  compare 
the  discipline  and  exercise  of  the  Janissaries  with  the  pride  of 
birth,  the  independence  of  chivalry,  the  ignorance  of  the  new 
levies,  the  mutinous  temper  of  the  veterans,  and  the  vices  of 
intemperance  and  disorder  which  so  long  contaminated  the 
armies  of  Europe."  ^ 

Mohammed  II.  had  twelve  thousand  Janissaries.  He 
increased  their  pay  and  enlarged  their  privileges;  and  as 
the  Turks  added  to  their  European  conquests,  they  re- 
cruited this  corps  from  the  children  of  the  conquered 
European  Christians  rather  than  from  those  of  Asia. 

To  return  to  Mohammed  IT.,  he  is  infamously  famous 
as  the  originator  of  the  legislation  which  established  the 
custom  of  imperial  fratricide.  These  were  the  words  of 
his  institutes:  "The  majority  of  my  jurists  have  pro- 
nounced  that   those    of   my   illustrious  descendants  who 

1  Gihbon, 


MOHAMMED  II.  103 

ascend  the  throne  may  put  their  brothers  to  death,  in 
order  to  secure  the  repose  of  the  world.  It  will  be  their 
duty  to  act  accordingly. " 

When  Mohammed  II.  gave  his  attention  to  the  improve- 
ment of  the  desolated  capital  that  he  had  conquered, 
he  chose  the  same  site  for  his  palace  that  had  best 
pleased  Constantino  the  Great.  He  extended  the  grounds 
considcral)ly  beyond  their  original  limits,  and  it  was 
henceforth  called  Seraglio  Point. 

The  Sultan  destroyed  the  strongholds  of  Galata,  lest 
they  should  be  of  advantage  to  his  Latin  subjects,  and 
proceeded  with  great  energy  to  repair  his  walls  and  forti- 
fications. He  surrounded  S.  Sophia  with  groves  and 
fountains,  and  crowned  it  with  minarets.  This  served 
as  a  model  for  all  royal  mosques,  the  first  of  which  was 
erected  by  Mohammed  II.,  and  bears  his  name.  For  this 
he  chose  the  site  on  which  the  church  of  the  Twelve 
Apostles  had  been  erected  by  S.  Helena,  and  rebuilt  by 
the  Empress  Theodora. 

Five  years  were  consumed  in  building  this  mosque;  and 
the  architect,  the  Greek  Christodoulos,  was  remunerated 
with  an  entire  adjoining  street.  Its  original  beauty  can 
scarcely  be  imagined  now,  since  it  has  suffered  from 
earthquake,  and  l)ecn  repaired  in  a  style  quite  out  of 
keeping  with  that  in  which  it  was  built;  but  there  are 
many  beautiful  marbles  remaining.  Its  fore-court,  with 
its  portico  and  foiintaiu,  is  attractive ;  and  much  historic 
interest  centres  here.  The  toml)s  of  ]\Iohammcd  11.  and 
liis  family  arc  in  the  grounds  of  the  mosque.  At  the 
right  of  the  great  gate  is  a  marble  tahle  on  which  —  in 
golden  characters  on  a  field  of  laph  lazuli  —  are  inscribed 
Ihe  Prophet's  prophetic  words :  "They  will  capture  Con- 
stantinople; and  happy  the  prince,  happy  the  army,  which 
accomplishes  this." 

A    legend   connected    with    this    mos(pie    relates   that 


104  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Mohammed  was  so  enraged  at  some  mistakes  made  by 
Cliristodoulos  that  he  ordered  the  architect's  hands  to  be 
cut  off.  The  next  day  in  the  court,  before  the  Judge  of 
Constantinople,  the  architect  sued  the  Sultan  for  damages. 
Mohammed  was  summoned,  and  appeared  in  order  to 
respect  the  law.  When  he  was  about  to  sit  down,  the 
judge  reminded  him  of  the  law  by  which  the  parties  to  a 
suit  remained  standing.  The  judge  —  after  hearing  the 
complaint  of  the  architect,  and  the  justification  of  his 
cruelty  by  the  Sultan  —  decreed  that  Mohammed  must 
maintain  the  architect  and  his  family  or  have  his  own 
hand  cut  off.  The  Sultan  settled  a  proper  sum  upon 
Christodoulos ;  and  when  all  was  done,  the  judge  excused 
himself  to  Mohammed  for  the  course  he  had  taken.  To 
this  the  Sultan  replied  that  had  the  judge  done  otherwise, 
or  given  a  verdict  against  the  architect,  he  would  have 
slain  him  with  the  battle-axe  he  carried.  "And  I,"  said 
the  judge,  "if  my  Sultan  had  refused  to  abide  by  my 
decision,  should  have  profited  by  the  aid  of  this  servant 
of  justice !  "  and,  throwing  back  the  rug,  the  judge  exposed 
a  poisonous  snake,  which  extended  its  forked  tongue,  and 
was  hurriedly  re-covered.  The  Sultan  kissed  the  hand  of 
the  judge,  and  returned  to  the  Seraglio. 

Mohammed  II.  surrounded  his  mosque  with  eight  acade- 
mies, a  home  for  students,  a  bath,  a  hospital,  a  diet-house 
for  the  poor,  and  a  caravansary. 

The  turheh  of  Mohammed  II.,  in  which  he  lies  alone,  is 
near  his  mosque.  Not  far  away  is  that  of  his  mother, 
Aselyma,  said  to  have  been  the  daughter  of  Charles  VII. 
of  France.  She  was  celebrated  for  her  learning,  and 
greatly  beloved  by  her  famous  son.  In  the  sumptuous 
tomb  of  Mohammed,  a  tooth  of  the  Prophet  is  preserved, 
which  is  shown  to  the  faithful  once  each  year.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  struck  from  his  mouth  by  a  severe  blow  from 
a  battle  axe  in  the  famous  battle  of  Bedr. 


MOHAMMED  II.  105 

On  the  third  day  after  his  conquest  the  Sultan  had  a 
vision,  which  revealed  to  him  the  grave  of  Abu  Ayoob, 
or  Job,  who  had  fallen  in  a.  d.  668,  during  the  first 
siege  of  Constantinople  by  the  Moslems.  The  pictur- 
esque village  called  by  the  name  of  this  saint  is  situated 
beyond  the  walls  of  Stamboul,  at  the  end  of  the  Golden 
Horn. 

The  mosque  built  here  by  the  conqueror  of  the  fifteenth 
century,  almost  nine  hundred  years  after  the  death  of 
Ayoob,  is  a  most  holy  place ;  and  here  each  new  ruler  of 
Istamboul  comes,  to  be  girded  with  the  sword  of  Otliman 
by  a  distinguished  dervish. 

No  Christian  is  permitted  to  reside  in  the  suburl:)  of 
Ayoob,  neither  are  they  supposed  to  enter  the  mosque; 
but  this  rule  is  not  strictly  observed.  In  1868  I  saw  its 
interior  and  its  surroundings. 

Many  relatives  of  the  Sultans  are  buried  in  this  much- 
venerated  place;  and  their  turbehs,  or  tombs,  are  richly 
decorated  with  precious  metals,  mother-of-pearl,  costly 
shawls,  gold-embroidered  velvets,  and  other  rare  Oriental 
stufTs. 

Here,  too,  are  the  tombs  of  four  children  who  were 
murdered  according  to  the  decree  of  Mohammed  H.,  which 
barbarous  law  still  exists.  One  of  these  tombs  is  thus 
inscribed : — 

"A  flower  that  had  scarcely  bloomed  was  prematurely  torn 
from  its  stem.  It  has  been  removed  to  those  bowers  where 
roses  never  languish.  Its  parent's  tears  will  supply  refreshing 
moisture.     Say  afatcJia  for  its  beatitude." 

This  child  was  the  nephew  of  Sultan  Abdul  Aziz.  It 
was  murdered  in  1843,  and  its  mother  survived  this 
terrible  tragedy  but  a  few  weeks. 

Near  the  mosque  is  a  temple,  with  an  octagonal  dome, 
in  which  the  Muftis  arc  buried.     The  huge  black  cata^ 


106  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

falqnes  raised  over  them  are  decorated  with  muslin  turbans 
of  an  enormous  height. 

Ayoob  is  very  impressive,  especially  towards  evening. 
Its  light  minarets  are  seen  from  Pera,  and  are  an  attrac- 
tive feature  in  the  view  across  the  Golden  Horn.  If  from 
Pera  one  goes  by  caique,  and  climbs  the  steep  path  between 
the  toml)s,  the  peaccfulness  and  silence  of  the  place,  the 
deep  shadows  of  its  plane  and  cypress  trees,  its  oaks  and 
acacias,  are  such  as  should  be  found  in  a  city  of  the  dead  ;  but 
here  there  seems  to  be  an  element  of  haughtiness  and  pride 
as  well,  which  perfectly  accords  with  the  spirit  of  the  Sul- 
tans and  other  dignitaries  who  here  sleep  their  long  sleep. 

The  chief  importance  of  Ayoob,  however,  is  not  con- 
cerned with  the  end,  but  with  the  beginning,  of  a  Sultan's 
reign.  Here  he  comes  to  be  consecrated  on  the  same 
plateau  where  the  Greek  rulers  were  presented  to  the 
army  and  proclaimed  emperors. 

It  is  said  that  any  foreigner  found  here  on  such  an 
occasion  would  be  murdered;  but  we  have  some  knowledge 
of  the  ceremony  as  originally  conducted,  and  the  descrip- 
tion of  it  in  1774  would  be  essentially  applicable  to  all, 
as  the  Moslems  endeavour  to  adhere  to  the  ancient  forms 
of  these  important  functions. 

The  procession  was  led  by  the  Grand  Vizier  and  Chief 
Mufti  on  horseback.  Next  followed  thirty-two  richly 
caparisoned  horses,  twelve  of  which  bore  shields,  which 
glittered  with  precious  gems.  Next  rode  the  Sultan, 
surrounded  by  guards,  and  so  blazing  with  diamonds  that 
he  might  well  be  called  the  "Brother  of  the  Sun."  On 
his  right  side  walked  the  master  of  the  horse,  and  on  the 
left  the  grand  chaml)erlain,  wdiile  two  aids  managed  the 
reins  and  carried  the  standard  of  the  Prophet.  Follow- 
ing these  superior  ofhcials  came  the  officers  of  the  stirrup, 
the  cup-bearer,  the  chief  huntsman,  and  numerous  other 
minor  officials. 


2 
^ 


MOHAMMED   II.  107 

The  ceremony  of  dismounting  was  most  important. 
The  above-mentioned  officials  retired,  while  the  Agha  of 
the  Janissaries,  the  Grand  Vizier,  and  the  Chief  Eunuch 
alone  touched  the  person  of  the  Sultan,  Behind  him  two 
turbans  were  borne  on  embroidered  cushions.  These  were 
symbols  of  his  rule  over  two  worlds;  and  in  order  that  he 
should  not  be  fatigued,  these  turbans  were  nodded  from 
right  to  left,  thus  saluting  the  multitude.  Other  pages 
bore  the  stool  on  which  the  Sultan  placed  his  foot  in 
dismounting,  and  the  spoon  for  his  use  in  his  ablutions 
in  the  mosque. 

Lines  of  Janissaries  were  drawn  up  before  the  mosque ; 
and  as  he  rode  between  them,  a  Greek  custom  was  followed 
of  scattering  coins  among  the  crowds  of  spectators.  The 
Sultan  actually  bowed  to  the  Janissaries,  and  they  re- 
turned his  salute  with  their  faces  turned  to  the  left, 
thus  signifying  their  willingness  to  lay  their  heads  on  the 
block  if  he  should  so  will.  This  seeming  humiliation  of 
these  soldiers  was  well  remunerated,  as  the  Sultan  halted 
before  the  barracks  that  he  passed,  and  at  each  one  drank 
a  cup  of  sherbet,  the  cup  being  returned  full  of  gold  coin. 

Within  the  mosque  the  sword  of  Othman  is  girded  on 
the  Sultan  before  the  tomb  of  S.  Ayoob.  Only  Mussulmans 
can  witness  this  most  solemn  ceremony,  which  remains 
unchanged  to  this  day. 

But  the  Janissaries  no  longer  exist,  and,  indeed,  many 
features  of  the  consecration  are  much  modified.  When 
the  present  Sultan,  Aljdul  Hamid,  was  "sabred  "  in  1870, 
he  approached  the  pier  in  a  caique  lined  with  crimson, 
rowed  by  twelve  Albanians  dressed  in  white.  He  was 
seated  beneath  a  golden  canopy,  wearing  a  plain  fez  and 
a  cloth  cloak,  which  concealed  his  dress  and  jewelled 
orders. 

From  the  pier  he  rode  alone  on  a  sidendid  milk-white 
Arab  horse,  that  stepjjed  proudly,   as   if  hunored   by   his 


108  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

burden.  The  young  Sultan  made  no  acknowledgment  of 
the  cheers  which  greeted  him.  Perhaps  he  knew  that 
those  who  cheered  performed  a  part  which  had  been 
assigned  them.  He  did  not  raise  his  eyes ;  and  his  gloomy, 
melancholy  face  was  utterly  devoid  of  any  expression  of 
pleasure,  while  he  nervously  stroked  his  beardless  chin,  as 
is  his  constant  habit.  While  on  the  way  to  Ayoob,  Hamid 
visited  the  tomb  of  his  father,  Abdul  Medjid,  at  the 
mosque  of  Mohammed  II. 

If  the  Sultan  avoided  the  appearance  of  splendour,  not 
so  his  cortege.  He  was  preceded  by  pashas,  ministers, 
beys,  and  other  officials  in  pairs,  wearing  splendidly 
laced  uniforms,  decorated  with  glittering  orders,  and 
mounted  on  richly  caparisoned  steeds.  Following  him 
were  companies  of  soldiers  of  various  ranks,  in  brilliantly 
coloured  uniforms,  and  full  turbans  with  gold  bands.  Next 
came  the  holy  man,  the  Sheikh-ul-Islam,  making  a  pictur- 
esque feature  of  the  spectacle  in  his  pure  white  garb.  It 
was  his  high  official  duty  and  privilege  to  confer  the 
sacred  sword  upon  the  Sultan.  Closing  the  procession 
were  the  religious  dignitaries,  guarded  on  the  rear  by 
squadrons  of  horse,  all  followed  by  many  closed  carriages 
filled  by  Turkish  ladies  of  high  degree. 

To  return  once  more  to  Mohammed  II.,  whose  learning 
was  phenomenal,  and  who  pretended  to  a  devotion  to  his 
religion  which  should  have  inspired  some  love  for  God's 
creatures,  we  find  that  neither  religion  nor  learning  pre- 
vented his  being  almost  or  quite  a  fiend  in  cruelty.  Per- 
haps the  deeds  of  a  savage  on  a  battle-field,  when  his 
v/orst  passions  are  aroused,  can  be  palliated ;  but  for  the 
brutality  of  Mohammed,  whoso  sobriety  is  fully  attested 
in  the  annals  of  his  country,  no  excuse  can  be  found.  If 
we  refuse  to  believe  the  curious  tales  concerning  his  rip- 
ping up  of  fourteen  pages  to  find  a  stolen  melon,  or  his 
striking  off  the  head  of  a  beautiful  slave  to  prove  that  he 


MOHAMMED  U.  109 

was  not  ruled  by  love,  or  his  beheading  a  slave  to  show 
Gentile  Bellini  the  proper  action  of  the  muscles,  we 
must  still  acknowledge  that  he  shed  torrents  of  blood  in 
his  rage  at  the  slightest  provocation,  and  indulged  his 
abnormal  passions  in  the  most  revolting  manner. 

"  He  was  doubtless  a  soldier,  and  possibly  a  general.  Con- 
stantiuople  has  sealed  bis  glory  ;  but  if  we  compare  the  meaus, 
the  obstacles,  and  the  achievements,  Mohammed  y.  must  blush 
to  sustain  a  parallel  with  Alexander  or  Timour."  ^ 

The  superiority  of  the  early  Ottoman  rulers  is  generally 
admitted  by  historians.  The  Ottoman  people,  too,  were 
superior  in  the  strength  of  their  religious  convictions, 
their  temperance  and  morality,  and  in  their  habit  of  abso- 
lute obedience,  which  made  it  easy  to  discipline  their 
army.  The  Sultans  were  successful  organizers.  They 
administered  justice  equitably ;  and  their  unique  plan  of 
diminishing  the  power  of  Christianity  by  educating 
Christian  youths  for  their  civil  and  military  service,  sup- 
plied the  ruler  with  a  large  body  of  servants  who,  being 
free  from  all  natural  ties,  became  devoted  to  the  power 
which  —  though  it  had  wrenched  them  from  home  and 
friends  —  had  given  them  the  education  that  fitted  them 
for  the  lofty  positions  and  great  power  to  which  they  not 
infrequently  attained. 

It  is  easily  seen  that  such  a  nation  would  be  vastly 
superior  to  the  corrupt  and  demoralized  population  of 
Constantinople,  —  made  up,  as  it  was,  of  various  races, 
steeped  in  indolence  and  luxury  on  the  one  hand,  and  in 
the  depths  of  the  most  abject  poverty  and  misery  on  the 
other,  with  the  additional  clement  of  mercantile  Italians, 
who  had  exiled  themselves  for  the  sake  of  money-making, 
and,  having  neither  affection  nor  loyalty  for  tho  Eastern 
Empire,  hesitated  at  no  deed  which  might  increase  their 
profits. 

^  Gibbon. 


110  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

But  the  Sultans  were  not  all  Mohammeds.  Even 
the  conqueror's  son,  Bayezid  11. ,  who  succeeded  his 
father,  was  a  weak,  indolent  prince,  who  added  neither 
to  the  power  nor  the  extent  of  the  empire.  He  was  a 
dreamy  man,  whose  personality  seems  to  pervade  his 
mosque,  the  chief  monument  to  his  reign. 

Its  court  is  darkened  and  shaded  by  plane  and  cypress 
trees,  and  under  its  cloister  dark-faced  men  sell  the 
Oriental  goods  which  harmonize  so  well  with  the  columns 
of  porphyry  and  verd  antique.  In  the  centre  of  the  court 
is  a  fountain ;  and  an  attendant  is  always  near,  to  whom 
one  may  give  a  coin  if  he  wishes  to  see  the  famous  pigeons 
of  Bayezid.  Myriads  of  these  gray  birds  flutter  down 
from  roof  and  minaret  when  the  corn  is  scattered;  and 
though  the  court  is  never  clean,  one  is  glad  that  their 
lives  are  sacred,  and  glad  also  to  remember  the  legend 
that  they  are  all  descended  from  the  pair  bought  by  the 
Sultan  from  a  poor  woman,  —  a  gentle  story  is  so  rare  in 
the  history  of  his  race. 

On  Friday  there  is  here  a  distribution  of  food  to  dogs ; 
and  hundreds  assemble,  some  of  them  coming  great 
distances. 

But  alas!  there  was  another  side  to  the  nature  of 
Bayezid  II.  Once  in  the  midst  of  a  frolic,  whe|i  the  wine 
of  Cyprus  had  made  both  the  Sultan  and  his  vizier  care- 
less and  bold,  Bayezid  spoke  insultingly  to  his  leader  of 
the  Janissaries;  and  that  officer  replied  by  asking  him 
who  had  placed  him  on  the  throne,  and  by  what  power  he 
retained  it.  Deep  silence  fell  on  all  present ;  and  when 
the  robes  of  honour  were  distributed,  a  black  one  was  given 
to  the  Agha,  who  rose  and  at  once  prepared  to  die. 

"  Stay,"  cried  the  Sultan,  —  "  stay,  I  have  not  done  with 
you !  "  as  the  mutes  prepared  to  beat  the  old  man  before 
he  should  be  murdered.  The  Agha,  having  now  nothing 
to  lose,  called  out,  "  Base  wretch !  if  you  had  willed  my 


SELIM  I.  Ill 

death,  why  did  you  first  defile  my  soul  by  making  me 
drink  wine  ?  " 

But  the  time  came  when  Bayezid  II.  drained  the  cup  of 
bitterness  to  its  dregs.  Old  and  feeble,  he  was  one  day 
visited  by  a  vast  concourse  of  Janissaries,  Spahis,  and 
common  people,  who  came  before  his  throne  demanding 
the  resignation  of  his  power.  Twelve  thousand  Janissaries 
shouted  their  battle-cry  to  emphasize  this  request,  and 
Bayezid  hastened  to  abdicate  in  favour  of  his  son  Selim. 
Shouts  of  joy  pealed  through  the  palace,  and  were  echoed 
by  those  outside ;  while  the  old  man  laid  oif  the  emblems 
of  sovereignty,  and  humbly  begged  permission  to  retire 
to  his  birthplace.  Selim  walked  beside  his  father's 
palanquin  as  far  as  the  gate  of  the  city,  and  saw  him 
depart.  On  the  third  day  the  old  man  died,  forsaken  and 
unmourned,  but  fortunate  in  that  he  had  been  spared  the 
fatal  bowstring. 

Selim  L,  called  "the  Grim,"  having  deposed  his  father, 
at  once  murdered  seven  brothers  and  nephews  who  might 
aspire  to  his  throne.  So  cruel  was  he  that  no  one  could 
serve  him  without  the  fear  of  death  constantly  in  mind. 
He  killed  off  his  grand  viziers  so  rapidly,  and  for  such 
slight  faults,  that  one  of  them  said  to  him,  "  My  Padishah, 
I  know  that  sooner  or  later  thou  wilt  find  some  pretext  for 
putting  me  to  death.  Permit  me,  therefore,  to  arrange 
my  affairs  in  this  world,  and  make  ready  for  being  sent 
to  the  next  by  thee." 

Selim  laughed  savagely,  and  replied,  "I  have  thought 
for  some  time  of  having  thee  killed  ;  but  as  T  liave  no  one 
suitable  to  tai<<'  thy  |)lace,  I  must  defer  it  a  little." 

Selim  was  llio  (ii-st  Sultan  who  attained  to  the  tille  and 
power  of  the  Caliphate,  which  added  to  his  consideration 
and  dignity  in  the  same  manner  as  it  would  increase  the 
importance  of  a  Western  emperor  to  be  also  <hc  Pope. 
The  first  four  caliphs  were  friends  of  the  Prophet  him- 


112  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

self;  and  after  tlicm  the  office  passed  successively  to  the 
Ommiade  Calii)hs,  the  Abbassides,  and  to  their  descend- 
ants in  Egypt,  from  the  last  of  whom  the  high  office  of 
spiritual  head  of  Islam  was  transferred  to  Selim  I.,  from 
whom  it  has  descended  to  all  the  Ottoman  Sultans.  The 
sacred  standard,  the  sword,  and  the  mantle  of  the  Prophet 
passed  into  the  keeping  of  Sultan  Selim  I. 

Selim  was  a  successful  warrior.  He  added  to  the  power 
and  dignity  of  his  kingdom  by  conquests.  He  built  ships 
and  improved  his  seaports.  He  brought  to  Constantinople 
from  the  capital  of  Persia,  which  he  conqueied,  a  thousand 
skilled  workmen,  and  gave  them  houses  that  he  might 
profit  by  their  exquisite  art  to  beautify  his  capital.  From 
Cairo  he  sent  such  treasures  to  Constantinople  that  a 
thousand  camels  were  required  to  carry  the  gold  and  silver 
alone.  His  administrative  talents  were  admirable.  He 
was  a  bigot  in  religion,  and  absolutely  sincere.  He  pat- 
ronized literature  liberally,  and  was  himself  an  eminent 
scholar.  In  short,  having  become  emperor  of  a  newly 
conquered  and  disordered  empire,  in  a  reign  of  nine  years, 
he  accomplished  a  wonderful  work,  and  left  a  kingdom 
fitted  to  serve  for  the  glory  of  so  great  a  sovereign  as  his 
son  Suleiman  proved  to  be. 

The  reign  of  Suleiman  the  Great,  1520-1556,  was  a 
magnificent  period  in  all  Europe,  as  well  as  in  the  Otto- 
man Empire.  Suleiman  was  called  "  The  Perfecter  of  the 
Perfect  Number,"  being  tenth  in  descent  from  the  founder 
of  his  dynasty.  Orientals  attach  great  importance  to 
numbers,  and  ten  is  believed  to  be  the  most  fortunate 
one.  It  was  singularly  prominent  in  all  that  concerned 
Suleiman,  especially  in  the  fact  above  stated,  and  in  that 
his  reign  opened  the  tenth  century  of  the  Hegira,  while 
in  the  course  of  his  experience  the  decimal  had  a  fre- 
quently recurring  prominence,  and  was  believed  to  have 
a  happy  iufluence  on  his  life. 


SULEIMAN  THE  MAGNIFICENT.  113 

He  was  the  contemporary  of  Charles  V,,  Francis  1., 
Henry  VIIL,  and  Queen  Elizabeth;  of  Pope  Leo  X.  ,  of 
the  founder  of  the  Russian  power,  Vasili  Ivanovich;  of 
Sigismund  of  Poland;  Shah  Ismail  of  Persia,  and  the 
Mogul  Emperor  Akbar;  and  among  these  no  one  could  be 
called  greater  than  Suleiman  the  Magnificent. 

"  The  century  of  Columbus,  of  Cortes,  of  Drake  and  Raleigh, 
of  Spenser  aud  Shakespeare,  the  epoch  that  saw  the  revival  of 
learning  iu  Italy  by  the  impulse  of  the  refugees  from  Constanti- 
nople, aud  which  greeted  at  once  the  triumph  of  Christianity 
over  Islam  in  Spain,  and  the  opening  of  a  new  world  by  Spanish 
enterprise,  was  hardly  more  brilliant  in  the  West  than  in  the 
East,  where  the  unceasing  victories  of  Suleiman,  and  the  suc- 
cesses of  Turghud  and  Barbarossa  formed  a  worthy  counter- 
part to  the  achievements  of  the  great  soldiers  and  admirals  of 
the  Atlantic.  Even  the  pirates  of  the  age  were  unique  ;  they 
founded  dynasties.  But  the  most  remarkable  feat  that  the 
Turks  achieved  during  this  glorious  century  was  —  that  they 
survived  it.  With  such  forces  as  were  arrayed  against  them, 
with  a  P^urope  roused  from  its  long  sleep,  and  ready  to  seize 
arms  and  avenge  its  long  disgrace  upon  the  infidels,  it  was  to  be 
expected  that  the  fall  of  the  Ottoman  power  must  ensue.  In- 
stead, we  shall  see  that  this  power  was  not  only  able  to  meet  the 
wliole  array  of  rejuvenated  Europe  on  equal  terms,  but  emerged 
from  the  conflict  stronger  and  more  triumphant  than  ever."  ^ 

Korner,  in  his  "Zriny,"  puts  these  words  into  tho 
mouth  of   Suleiman  :  — 

"  I  have  lived  for  all  time;  of  tliat  I'm  conscious, — 
Anil  on  the  immortal  stars  have  knit  my  fame. 
I  had  suhdued  the  world  had  I  heen  born 
Sole  hero  of  my  age.     My  toil  was  harder, 
My  century  was  rich  in  mighty  spirits, 
And  many  and  strong  were  they  who  strove  with  me. 
I  scorn  the  name  of  Fortune's  favorite. 
With  resolute  force  I  wrung  from  destiny 
What  had  to  fond  entreaties  been  denied." 


^  Stanley  Lane-Poole. 


114  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

The  entire  history  of  this  great  Caliph-Sultan  is  most 
interesting,  from  the  time  when  at  twenty  years  of  age  his 
father  left  him  to  act  as  viceroy  while  he  went  to  war 
with  Persia,  to  the  day  when  he  died  in  his  tent  hefore 
Szigeth ;  but  we  can  only  speak  of  what  concerned  his 
capital. 

At  his  death  his  empire  embraced  many  of  the  most 
beautiful  spots  in  the  world,  and  extended  over  forty 
thousand  square  miles.  Never  again  did  it  enjoy  such 
prosperity  or  wield  such  power  as  under  Suleiman,  the 
Lord  of  his  Age.  We  should  not  look  upon  the  cruel 
and  blamable  aspects  of  the  character  of  Suleiman  alone. 
He  could  also  be  generous  and  warm-hearted,  and  was 
free  from  the  depraved  sensuality  of  many  Turks. 

"  We  must  remember  his  princely  courage,  his  military 
genius,  his  high  and  enterprising  spirit,  his  strict  observance 
of  the  laws  of  his  religion  without  any  taint  of  bigoted  perse- 
cution, the  order  and  economy  which  he  combined  with  so  much 
grandeur  and  munificence,  his  liberal  encouragement  of  art  and 
literature,  his  zeal  for  the  diffusion  of  education,  the  conquests 
by  which  he  extended  his  empire,  and  the  wise  and  comprehen- 
sive legislation  with  which  he  provided  for  the  good  government 
of  all  his  subjects  ;  let  him  be  thus  taken  for  all  in  all,  and  we 
shall  feel  his  incontestal)le  right  to  the  title  of  a  great  sovereign, 
which  now  for  three  centuries  he  has  maintained."  ^ 

Suleiman  was  an  only  son,  and  therefore  not  guilty  of 
fratricide  on  coming  to  the  throne.  Among  his  first  acts, 
as  emperor,  he  gave  permission  to  six  hundred  Egyptians, 
who  had  been  forcibly  brought  to  Constantinople,  to  return 
to  their  homes.  He  reimbursed  merchants  who  had  suf- 
fered loss  through  the  injustice  of  his  father.  He  exe- 
cuted officials  convicted  of  cruel  and  unlawful  acts,  and 
thus  displayed  both  generosity  and  justice  in  his  treatment 

of  his  subjects. 

1  Sir  E   S.  Creasy. 


SULEIMAN   THE   MAGNIFICENT.  115 

The  splendid  public  works  of  Suleiman  in  his  capital 
recall  the  days  of  Justinian;  but  in  this  regard,  and  in 
his  legislation  only,  can  the  Roman  emperor  be  estimated 
as  the  equal  of  the  Turk.  Not  only  was  Constantinople 
improved  and  embellished,  but  in  other  cities  of  his 
empire  his  love  of  architecture  was  displayed.  The  great 
aqueduct  and  the  arsenal  of  the  capital  were  paralleled  by 
the  restoration  of  the  aqueducts  of  Mecca  and  the  building 
of  the  bridge  at  Tschekmedji. 

While  improving  his  cities,  increasing  his  army  and 
navy,  and  building  immense  storehouses  for  the  supplies 
of  fleets  and  camps,  Suleiman  did  not  neglect  the  poets, 
historians,  and  other  writers,  who  flourished  in  unusual 
numbers  under  his  patronage.  His  own  diaries  are  im- 
portant to  the  history  of  his  time,  and  his  dignified  poems 
are  worthy  of  a  place  in  the  literature  of  his  race. 

The  blackest  stains  on  the  record  of  Suleiman's  life  are 
the  executions  of  statesmen  —  even  of  his  favourite  Ibrahim 
—  and  the  murders  of  his  children.  Some  of  these  are 
attributable  to  the  influence  which  his  Sultana  Roxalana 
acquired  over  him.  In  submitting  to  this  influence  he 
showed  the  chief  weakness  of  his  life,  and  some  of  his 
greatest  crimes  were  hers  rather  than  the  Sultan's. 

The  story  of  the  Grand  Vizier  Ibrahim  is  as  interest- 
ing as  it  is  tragical.  The  son  of  a  sailor  at  Parga, 
captured  by  corsairs,  sold  as  a  slave  to  a  widow,  he  passed 
into  the  service  of  Suleiman  when,  as  a  young  prince,  he 
was  the  governor  of  Magnesia.  The  master  and  slave 
were  sympathetic  in  their  tastes,  and  soon  loved  each 
other  tenderly.  Ibrahim's  learning  was  phenomenal,  and 
he  was  able  not  only  to  amuse  Suleiman,  but  to  im- 
part to  him  much  that  he  desired  to  know.  They  w^erc 
almost  inseparable,  even  sleeping  in  the  same  apartment. 
Suleiman  was  proud  to  Ijostow  his  sister  upon  his  friend 
in  marriage,  and  raised  him  to  the  highest  otfice  in  the 


116  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

gift  of  the  Sultan,  which  Ibrahim  richl}'  merited;  for  not 
only  was  he  an  acceptable  companion  in  times  of  peace, 
but  a  great  warrior  also,  and  a  statesman  who,  by  his 
counsel,  encouraged  Suleiman  to  some  of  the  important 
conquests  of  his  reign. 

Ibrahim  possessed  great  personal  courage,  and  could 
appease  the  Janissaries  when  they  were  rebellious  as  no 
other  man  could  do.  Suleiman  showered  riches  and 
honours  upon  his  vizier.  He  stripped  the  marbles  from 
the  walls  and  seats  of  the  Circus,  and  despoiled  other 
splendid  edifices,  in  order  to  increase  the  magnificence  of 
the  palace  which  he  built  for  Ibrahim.  The  fetes  on  the 
occasion  of  the  marriage  of  his  favourite  and  his  sister 
proved  the  Sultan's  generosity  and  affection.  But  this 
propitious  union,  of  which  we  are  told  that  "the  empire 
felt  the  benefit  from  hour  to  hour,"  endured  but  six  years. 
Suleiman  began  to  dread  the  power  of  his  vizier,  and  even 
his  affection  for  him  and  his  close  relations  with  him 
could  not  induce  a  Turkish  Sultan  to  permit  a  man  whom 
he  feared  to  live. 

Ibrahim  went  one  day  to  dine  with  Suleiman,  as  usual, 
and  did  not  return  home  that  night.  When  search  was 
made  for  him  next  day,  he  was  found  dead  under  con- 
ditions that  proved  that  he  had  struggled  valiantly  for 
life.  Suleiman  deeply  regretted  this  act,  but  his  repent- 
ance could  not  erase  the  blood  stains  from  his  palace 
walls  nor  from  his  memory;  for  wherever  this  great 
ruler  is  praised  he  is  also  blamed  for  this  and  other 
examples  of  his  unbridled  cruelty. 

Tragic  and  terrible  as  the  fate  of  Ibrahim,  that  of  the 
eldest  son  of  the  Sultan  is  far  more  so,  and  was  brought 
about  by  his  favourite  Sultana,  a  Russian  girl  called 
Khourrem  —  "  the  joyous  one  "  —  or  "  La  Rossa, "  who  is 
known  to  Europeans  as  Roxalana.  Her  attractions  and 
her   intuitive   knowledge    of  how   to   please    and   amuse 


SULKIMAN   THE   MAGNIFICENT.  117 

Suleiman  gave  her  such  power  over  h'un  that  she  retained 
her  phxcc  in  his  affections  until  her  death,  in  1558,  after 
which  her  erected  her  toml)  near  his  own  and  close  to 
his  magnificent  mosque.  It  is  embowered  in  trees;  and 
though  its  interior  is  now  neglected  and  dusty,  it  still 
bears  witness  before  the  world  to  the  fond  affection  which 
this  greatest  of  Sultans  lavished  on  Roxalana. 

Incomprehensibly  cruel  and  wicked  as  she  seems  to  us, 
there  is  an  excuse  which  is  sometimes  made  for  her,  as  it 
is  for  Lady  Macbeth, — that  her  ambition  for  her  hus- 
band, whom  she  devotedly  loved,  led  her  to  persuade  him 
to  damning  deeds  of  blood.  When  the  question  with 
Roxalana  was  the  murder  of  Ibrahim,  this  consideration 
might  be  admissible,  especially  in  such  a  time  and  under 
such  a  rule  as  that  of  Suleiman ;  but  what  shall  we  offer 
as  her  excuse  when  she  persuades  her  husband  to  murder 
his  own  son,  in  order  that  her  ambition  may  be  realized  ])y 
seeing  her  son  the  indisputable  successor  of  his  father  ? 
We  fear  that  the  best  that  can  be  said  for  Roxalana  is 
that  she  was  a  woman  of  a  remarkably  clear  intelligence 
and  strong  character,  who  hesitated  at  no  crime  that 
could  enhance  the  power  and  dignity  of  the  only  beings 
whom  she  loved,  — her  husl)and  and  her  sons. 

Prince  ]\fustapha  was  born  of  a  Circassian  before 
Suleiman  had  seen  Roxalana,  and  he  was  the  natural  heir 
to  the  throne.  IJut  the  Sultana  had  no  thought  save  that 
of  the  death  of  Mnstapha,  in  order  that  her  eldest  son, 
Selim,  might  be  sure  of  the  succession.  She  had  a  son- 
in-law,  Roostcm  Pasha,  who,  having  been  raised  to  the 
highest  position  that  existed  under  the  Sultan,  Ity  the 
influence  of  the  Sultana,  was  a  supple  instrument  with 
which  to  work  her  will. 

Prince  Mustapha  was  a  gifted  man,  full  of  activity  and 
grace  of  person,  intelligence,  spirit,  and  courage.  He 
had  been  intrusted  with  civil  and  military  authorily,  and 


118  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

even  seemed  likely  to  surpass  his  father  in  such  qualities 
as  distinguished  the  powerful  rulers  of  his  house.  But 
the  industrious  whispering  of  Roostem  Pasha  and  the 
Sultana  sowed  the  fatal  seeds  of  distrust  and  fear,  and  the 
Sultan,  now  growing  old,  was  reminded  that  his  father, 
Selim,  had  dethroned  his  grandfather,  Bayezid.  Mustapha 
was  so  great  a  favourite  with  the  army  and  the  people  that 
the  insinuations  of  the  Sultana  seemed  to  be  fully  con- 
firmed by  what  Suleiman  could  himself  see  and  hear 
whenever  Mustapha  rode  through  the  streets.  At  length 
the  Sultan  was  persuaded  that  he  was  not  safe  in  Con- 
stantinople, and  he  repaired  to  the  headquarters  of  the 
army,  taking  Selim,  the  son  of  Roxalana,   with  him. 

Soon  after  Suleiman  reached  the  camp.  Prince  Mustapha 
also  arrived  and  pitched  his  tent  near  that  of  his  father. 
Next  morning  he  was  splendidly  dressed,  and  rode  his 
fine  charger  with  such  grace  as  aroused  the  enthusiasm  of 
the  viziers  and  Janissaries  who  attended  him  as  he  went 
to  pay  his  respects  to  the  Sultan.  Leaving  his  attendants, 
he  passed  alone  into  the  royal  tent,  where  he  saw,  not  his 
father,  but  the  seven  mutes,  so  Avell  known  as  the  minis- 
ters of  death.  They  sprang  upon  him,  and  passed  the 
bowstring  round  his  neck,  while  he  vainly  called  on  his 
father  for  mercy.  Some  accounts  say  that  Suleiman, 
impatient  of  the  length  of  time  it  took  to  kill  his  son, 
looked  into  the  apartment  to  hasten  the  mutes  in  their 
execution  of  his  bidding.  Meantime  some  of  Mustapha's 
attendants  were  murdered  on  the  outside  of  the  tent ;  and 
when  the  news  of  the  tragedy  reached  the  soldiers,  and 
especially  the  Janissaries,  they  were  so  outraged  against 
Roostem  Pasha,  to  whom  they  attributed  this  slaughter, 
that  they  demanded  his  punishment.  In  order  to  allay 
the  excitement,  Roostem  was  deposed  from  his  high  office, 
but  was  restored  to  it  two  years  later. 

Dreadful  as  was  this  crime,  still  worse  was  to  follow; 


SULEIMAN   THE   MAGNIFICENT.  119 

for  after  the  death  of  the  Sultana,  her  two  sons,  Selim 
and  Bayezid,  became  deadly  rivals.  At  first  the  tutor  of 
the  princes  favoured  Bayezid ;  but  finding  that  he  would  be 
better  paid  by  Selim,  he  espoused  his  cause,  and  repre- 
sented Bayezid  to  the  Sultan  as  an  ungrateful  child,  while 
he  impressed  the  prince  with  the  idea  that  his  father  was 
a  tyrant,  who  was  determined  to  be  freed  from  his  younger, 
as  he  had  been  from  his  elder  son. 

Selim  was  weak  and  dissolute,  and  most  unpopular  on 
account  of  his  resemblance  to  his  mother;  while  Bayezid 
was  like  his  father  in  person,  intellect,  character,  and 
accomplishments,  and  as  much  in  general  favour  as 
Mustapha  had  been.  Bayezid  commanded  respect  also  as 
a  military  leader;  but  he  suffered  a  defeat  in  1559,  after 
which,  with  his  four  sons,  he  took  refuge  with  the  Shah 
of  Persia.  Suleiman  sternly  demanded  that  his  son  and 
his  grandsons  should  be  sent  to  him  or  murdered  where 
they  were.  Prince  Selim  sent  emissaries  to  slay  them. 
The  Shah  feared  to  disobey  the  Sultan,  and  the  terrible 
sentence  of  Suleiman  was  executed.  The  Persians  jjoured 
forth  curses  on  the  Sultan,  on  Prince  Selim,  and  on  the 
executioners  without  stint;  and  the  remaining  years  of 
Suleiman  were  clouded  by  sorrows  and  military  failures. 
Shortly  before  his  death  Bayezid  wrote  an  elegiac  poem, 
which  thus  speaks  the  sadness  of  his  soul :  — 

"  Why  cling  to  liopes  of  life  with  fond  misgiving  ? 

Why  lengthen  out  thine  hours,  my  weary  heart? 
For  thee  is  witiiercd  all  the  joy  of  living  : 

To  the  void  realms  below  thou  summoned  art. 
Bird  of  my  soul,  tlie  cage  that  round  thee  prest, 

Is  shattered  now  :  hence  on  free  pinion  dart. 
In  mind  and  body  sick,  with  sin  distrcst, 
To  thee,  my  Friend,  my  God,  I  come  for  healing  rest." 

The  Sulci  many  eh  is  most  advantageously  situated,  and 
is  the  most  artistic  mosque  in  Constantinoi)le.  It  is  on  a 
high  hill,  from  wliicli  the  view  of  the  Golden  Horn  and 


120  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  city  is  especially  fine;  and  at  certain  hours  of  the  day 
this  panorama  is  as  exquisite  in  its  lighting  as  it  is 
entrancing  in  its  interest.  This  majestic  mosque,  huilt 
by  Sinan,  the  most  celebrated  Ottoman  architect,  besides 
its  fine  interior,  has  a  court,  a  fountain,  beautiful  colon- 
nades, twenty-three  small  domes,  and  four  exquisite 
minarets,  with  galleries,  from  which  the  muezzins  cry  the 
call  to  prayer. 

It  adds  to  the  interest  of  the  Suleimanyeh  that  it  is  an 
example  of  Ottoman  architecture,  intended  for  its  purpose 
from  its  foundation ;  yet  it  differs  from  the  pure  Moslem 
architecture  of  other  countries,  especially  in  its  minarets 
and  domes,  in  which  a  Greek  influence  is  felt.  Its 
central  dome  is  seventeen  feet  higher  than  that  of  S. 
Sophia,  and,  as  might  naturally  be  anticipated,  there  are 
some  features  much  the  same  as  in  that  venerable  pile, 
which  may  be  called  the  Mother  Church  or  Mosque  of  Con- 
stantinople. Within  are  many  things  which  must  be  the 
same  in  all  mosques,  such  as  •  the  texts  inscribed  upon 
the  walls,  the  arrangement  of  candelabra,  the  mihrab,  and 
the  pulpit.  The  temples  of  the  Prophet  seem  always  cold 
and  desolate  to  Christians,  who  are  not  permitted  to  enter 
during  service,  but  must  go  in  slippers,  when  but  a  few 
figures  at  prayer,  as  immovable  as  if  dead,  are  all  that 
can  be  seen. 

There  are  some  rare  and  beautiful  objects  in  the 
Suleimanyeh,  and  the  light  as  it  comes  through  the 
coloured  glass  —  from  the  manufactory  of  Ibrahim,  called 
Sarkhosh  or  "the  Drunkard,"  whose  glass  was  celebrated 
for  its  beauty  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  — 
imparts  a  charm  not  common  to  mosques.  The  windows 
are  painted  in  a  design  in  which  flowers  are  mingled  with 
the  name  of  God,  in  the  ornamental  text  used  for  such 
inscriptions.  It  is  said  that  two  of  them  were  a  part  of 
the  spoil  brought  by  Suleiman  from  Persia,  whence  came 


SULEIMAN   THE   MAGNIFICENT.  121 

also  the  brilliant  tiles  upon  the  walls.  The  dome  rests 
on  four  monolithic  columns  of  ancient  Constantinople, 
two  of  which  once  upheld  the  Venus  and  the  statue  of 
Justinian,  while  the  others  are  said  to  have  supported 
those  of  Theodora  and  Eudoxia  in  the  imperial  palace. 

The  mosque  itself,  with  its  forecourt  and  its  church- 
yard, are  surrounded  by  a  still  larger  court  having  ten 
gates.  In  the  cemetery  near  the  tomb  of  Roxalana,  of 
which  we  have  spoken,  is  that  of  Suleiman  the  Magnifi- 
cent, who  does  not  sleep  alone  in  his  splendid  mausoleum. 
Suleiman  IT.  and  his  daughters,  and  Sultan  Ahmed  II. 
are  also  entombed  here.  The  edifice  is  octagonal,  with 
a  fluted  roof.  There  are  exquisite  marbles  without  and 
within,  and  the  interior  of  the  dome  is  painted  in  a 
design  of  delicate,  lace-like  arabesques.  The  costly  deco- 
rations of  the  biers  —  embroideries,  shawls,  turbans,  and 
aigrettes,  mother-of-pearl  work,  and  other  exquisite 
details  —  are  curiously  out  of  keeping  with  Christian 
customs,  but  are  expressive  of  reverence  and  honour  to 
the  Sultan  who  raised  the  Ottoman  Empire  to  its  highest 
glory. 

Connected  with  the  Sulcimanych  are  four  academies, 
throe  schools,  a  hospital,  a  kitchen  for  feeding  the  poor, 
a  school  of  medicine,  and  another  especially  for  the  read- 
ing of  the  Koran,  a  library,  a  fountain,  a  resting-place  for 
travellers,  and  a  house  of  refuge  for  strangers.  The 
income  of  the  Suleimanyeh  must  have  been  enormous 
when  all  these  institutions  were  properly  supported. 

Certainly  it  is  no  small  tribute  to  a  monarch  that  such 
a  monument  as  this  mosque  and  its  dependencies  should 
bear  his  name,  which  has  been  thus  repeated  l)y  men  of 
all  nations  thousands  of  times  each  yeai-  tlirough  century 
after  century.  A  Cliristinn  I'liler  would  liave  dedicated 
the  temple  he  had  built  to  the  Holy  Trinity  or  to  some 
saint;  but  these  Sultans,  while  they  made  a  great  show  of 


122  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

reverence  for  the  Prophet,  knew  of  no  name  to  give  their 
mosques  better  than  tlieir  own;  and  Suleiman  merited 
this  honour  more  than  any  other  of  his  race. 

He  was  an  unusual  man.  On  one  side  of  his  nature 
savage  and  cruel,  he  was  yet  capable  of  faithful  affection. 
So  much  did  he  know  of  architecture  that  he  could  easily 
have  been  the  sole  architect  of  the  edifices  he  erected. 
He  passionately  loved  music  and  poetry,  but  he  put  aside 
the  self-indulgence  of  his  race,  and  devoted  himself  to 
making  his  arms  respected  at  home  and  abroad,  on  land 
and  sea;  and  he  tranquilly  died  in  his  tent  while  his 
troops  were  pressing  forward  to  win  one  great  victory 
more,  as  their  final  offering  to  their  greatest  Sultan. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

SELIM    II.    TO    ABDUL  MEDJID  —  THREE  CENTUEIES    OF    DECLINE. 
1566-1861. 

WE  have  seen  what,  in  its  way,  may  well  be  called  a 
Wonder  of  the  World,  as  we  have  traced  the  rise 
of  the  Ottoman  Power.  A  small  band  of  Moslems,  who  con- 
trolled a  little  patch  of  Asia  Minor,  after  three  centuries 
commanded  in  Europe  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Black 
Seas,  with  the  lesser  waters  between,  and  in  Africa  the 
Red  Sea,  while  their  territory  was  bounded  by  Mecca  and 
Buda,  by  Bagdad  and  Algiers. 

From  the  time  of  Suleiman  the  course  of  the  empire  has 
been  reversed,  and  the  growth  of  the  three  preceding  cen- 
turies has  been  followed  by  an  equal  period  of  decay,  the 
wonder  now  being  that  it  survives  at  all.  What  keeps 
the  "  sick  man "  alive  ?  Two  causes  contribute  to  this 
end,  and  seem  to  be  the  only  ones.  The  first  is  that  the 
Sultan  is  also  the  Caliph  of  the  Prophet;  the  second, 
that  he  has  retained  the  key  to  the  situation,  Constanti- 
nople. As  the  possession  of  this  capital  prolonged  the 
Roman  and  the  later  Byzantine  rule,  so  it  to-day  serves 
the  Turk,  aided  as  he  is  to  keep  this  stronghold  by  the 
powers  of  Woslcrn  Europe,  even  though  they  know,  as  has 
been  well  said,  that  "the  rule  of  the  Turk,  l)y  whatever 
di|)loniatic  eu])hemisms  it  may  bo  called,  moans  the  bond- 
ago  and  degradation  of  all  who  come  l)cnoafh  his  rulc."^ 

We  will  not  review  in  detail  the  sickening  and  doolino 
of   the   beautiful   city  on    the    ljosi)horus.      Solini    II.    is 

^  E.  A.  Freeman. 


124  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

remembered  as  the  conqueror  of  Cyprus  and  the  loser  of 
the  battle  of  Lepanto,  which  occurrence  greatly  cheered 
his  enemies  because  it  proved  that  the  Turk  was  not 
invincible.  But  why  did  they  leave  it  there  ?  Why  not 
have  taken  Constantinople  rather  than  give  Selim  the  Sot 
an  opportunity  to  refit  his  navy  and  strengthen  himself 
in  every  way  ?  This  was  the  single  occasion  when  he 
acted  on  a  noble  impulse,  when  in  a  spasm  of  patriotism 
he  gave  a  portion  of  his  pleasure-gardens  on  Seraglio 
Point  for  the  building  of  docks,  and  contributed  large 
sums  from  his  private  purse  to  restore  what  had  been 
lost. 

His  successor,  Murad  III.,  was  a  feeble  wretch,  ruled 
by  women,  among  whom  there  was  fortunately  one  of 
intelligence  and  determination,  a  Venetian,  known  as  the 
Sultana  Safiye.  She  ruled  the  Sultan,  and  through  him 
the  country,  in  the  interests  of  the  Republic  of  Venice ; 
and  though  various  other  women  succeeded  her  in  Murad's 
favour,  she  outwitted  them  in  placing  her  son  Mohammed 
III.  upon  the  throne.  Murad  left  twenty  sons  and  twenty- 
seven  daughters  living  at  his  death,  and  fifty-three  others 
had  died  before  him. 

Murad's  mother,  the  famous  Nour  Banore,  used  all  her 
influence  against  Safiye ;  but  the  Sultan  could  refuse  her 
nothing,  and  it  was  in  honour  of  the  Venetian's  son  that 
the  magnificent  fetes  were  given  of  which  the  French 
ambassador  of  the  time  wrote  a  description.  The  Hippo- 
drome was  divided  into  kiosks,  which  were  gilded  and 
decorated  with  rich  hangings  and  beautiful  flowers  for 
the  use  of  the  Sultan,  the  son  of  Safiye,  and  the  Sultanas ; 
while  a  separate  building  was  devoted  to  the  ambassadors, 
the  viziers,  and  other  officials.  A  large  tent  served  for  the 
distribution  of  sherbets  and  the  delicious  Turkish  sweets, 
and  the  centre  of  the  Hippodrome  was  illuminated  by 
means  of  poles  supporting  hoops,  from  which  millions -of 


SELM  II.  TO  ABDUL  MEDJID.  125 

small  lamps  were  suspended,  as  they  are  now  used  in 
mosque  illuminations. 

The  fetes  continued  through  several  days.  On  the  first 
the  Sultan,  surrounded  by  his  court,  with  his  son,  the 
future  Sultan,  by  his  side,  made  a  grand  progress  from 
the  Seraglio  to  the  Hippodrome.  The  Prince  was  gor- 
geously dressed  in  scarlet  satin.  His  turban  was  deco- 
rated with  heron's  plumes,  while  his  ears  and  hand 
supported  jewels  beyond  price.  Representations  of  all 
sorts  of  animals  made  in  sugar  were  borne  by  fifteen 
horses  splendidly  accoutred  in  the  richest  stuffs.  The 
marriage  palms,  ninety  feet  high,  were  hung  with  an  end- 
less variety  of  symbolic  toys,  and  so  huge  were  they  that 
houses  and  walls  were  pulled  down  to  make  a  passage  for 
them. 

The  trades  processions,  bearing  gifts,  and  endeavouring 
to  outdo  all  other  features  of  the  fetes,  were  admirable. 
There  were  tournaments  and  quadrilles  with  chariots;  and 
the  men,  dressed  in  splendid  stuffs  and  embroideries, 
represented  different  trades. 

The  dervishes,  in  their  white  robes  and  conical  caps, 
whirled  in  their  dances.  Some  held  red-hot  irons  in 
their  mouths;  others  swallowed  knives.  One  was  whirl- 
ing in  a  barrel  of  serpents;  another  danced  on  pointed 
sabres;  and  all  these  things  were  done  in  the  sight  of  the 
harem,  the  ladies  being  behind  a  grill.  The  shrill  cry 
of  the  dervishes,  "Allah,  Allah!"  added  greatly  to  the 
excitement. 

There  were  splendid  banquets  to  the  Capitan  Pasha,  to 
the  Creeks  in  their  native  costumes,  to  the  Janissaries, 
wliich  recjuircd  sixty  tables,  each  with  high  officials  at 
the  head;  to  archers,  guards,  gardeners,  muftis,  cadis, 
slieiks,  and  others  until  all  were  fed.  The  feasts  were 
interrupted  Ijy  various  spectacles,  one  of  which  repre- 
sented  a  wedding.     Thirty   beys,  magnificently   dressed. 


126  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

personated  brides  and  bridegrooms,  and  several  times  per- 
formed the  dance,  which  represents  the  labyrinth  of  Crete 
in  its  figures,  called 'the  Romaika;  and  again  they  danced 
the  lascivious  Egyptian  dances. 

All  this  occupied  some  days,  and  on  the  final  one  the 
circumcision  of  the  princes  took  place,  with  certain  cere- 
monies so  savage  that  the  origin  of  the  Sultans  could  not 
be  forgotten. 

The  finale  of  this  merriment  was  one  of  the  ever-recur- 
ring revolts  of  the  Janissaries  and  the  Spahis,  or  royal 
horse  guards,  with  the  usual  accompaniment  of  a  fire; 
and  the  passage  of  the  curtained  litters  from  the  Hippo- 
drome to  the  Seraglio  was  attended  with  considerable 
danger. 

Mohammed  III.  left  no  effort  untried  to  make  his  posi- 
tion secure.  On  his  accession  he  murdered  nineteen 
brothers,  and  had  seven  slaves,  who  were  about  to  become 
mothers,  sewed  in  sacks  and  drowned.  This  was  the  most 
numerous  sacrifice  made  by  any  one  Sultan  to  the  law  of 
Mohammed  II. 

Previous  to  this  reign  the  hereditary  i)rinces  had  been 
entrusted  with  the  government  of  the  provinces  and  mili- 
tary commands.  From  this  time  they  were  confined  to  a 
particular  portion  of  the  palace  called  "the  cage,"  which 
they  left  but  to  go  to  the  throne  or  the  grave.  This  cage 
was  in  a  solitary  garden,  built  like  a  temple  without 
windows  and  lighted  from  the  top.  It  had  but  a  single 
small  iron  door,  against  which  a  great  stone  was  rolled. 

"  Kept  in  a  kiud  of  imprisonment  till  they  came  to  the  throne, 
with  every  means  of  enjoying  themselves,  but  with  no  means  of 
learning  the  duties  of  rulers,  they  came  forth  from  prison  to  be 
clothed  with  absolute  power.  One  is  really  inclined  to  wonder 
that  they  were  not  even  worse  than  they  were,  and  that  any  of 
them  showed  any  sign  of  virtue  or  ability  of  any  kind."  ^ 

^  Freeman. 


SELIM   II.   TO   ABDUL  MEDJID.  127 

Passing  over  the  reigns  of  Almied  L,  Othman  11.,  and 
Mustapha  I.,  sve  come  to  tlie  time  of  which  the  minister 
of  King  James  I.  said  that  the  Ottoman  power  "had 
become  like  an  old  body  crazed  through  many  vices,  which 
remain  when  the  youth  and  strength  are  decayed."  What 
has  prolonged  the  days  of  this  weakness  two  hundred  and 
fifty  years  ?  Freeman  answers  this  question  when  he  says, 
"  The  Turkish  power  has  been  propped  up  by  the  wicked 
policy  of  the  governments  of  Western  Europe." 

Murad  IV.  was  the  most  bloodthirsty  of  all  these  brutal 
rulers,  and  was  also  the  last  soldiei^'of  his  race.  He  must 
have  been  strong  in  character.  Coming  to  the  throne  at 
twelve  years  of  age,  and  ruling  an  empire  overrun  with 
rebellion  and  suffering  constant  disaster,  it  seems  little 
less  than  a  miracle  that  he  was  not  sacrificed  to  the  ambi- 
tions by  which  he  was  surrounded.  Doubtless  he  owed 
his  preservation  to  his  mother,  the  Valideh  Mahpeike. 

Constantinople  was  crowded  with  a  famine-stricken 
people  and  a  licentious,  savage  soldiery.  When  the 
young  Sultan  visited  the  treasury  and  saw  its  emptiness, 
he  exclaimed :  "Inshallah  —  please  God  —  I  will  replenish 
the  treasury  fifty-fold  with  the  property  of  those  who  have 
plundered  it." 

With  care  and  cunning,  in  the  midst  of  hourly  peril,  he 
succeeded  in  coming  to  man's  estate.  He  oljscrvcd  keenly, 
and  forgot  nothing.  Above  all,  he  did  not  forget  to 
avenge  himself  later  iov  matters  that  it  was  unwise  to 
notice  at  first. 

Constantinople  was  always  a  hotbed  for  insurrections 
and  mutinies ;  and  the  rising  of  the  Si)ahis,  in  the  ninth 
year  of  this  reign,  was  mcmoraljle  for  itself,  and  to  it 
may  be  attributed  the  unusual  ferocity  and  thirst  for 
blood  by  which  the  Sultan  was  ever  after  characterized. 
The  object  of  the  mutiny  was  the  ruin  of  the  Grand  Vizier 
llafiz,  the  Sultan's  favourite. 


128  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

The  Spahis  gathered  in  the  Hippodrome  on  three  suc- 
cessive days,  and  demanded  seventeen  heads  of  the  Sultan, 
that  of  Ilafiz  being  first  on  tlie  list.  The  entire  capital 
was  in  terror.  Business  was  suspended,  and  bazaars  and 
shops  closed;  even  the  Seraglio  was  no  longer  felt  to  be 
safe.  On  the  second  day  the  insurgents  were  promised 
satisfaction  on  the  morrow ;  and  when  the  sun  rose  on  that 
morning,  the  Seraglio  was  surrounded,  and  the  outer  court 
filled  with  Spahis  determined  to  be  put  off  no  longer. 

When  on  his  way  to  the  Seraglio,  Hafiz  was  counselled 
to  hide  himself.  He  answered  that  he  did  not  fear  to  die, 
and  already  knew  his  fate,  as  he  had  seen  it  in  a  dream. 
He  entered  the  Seraglio,  and  was  struck  from  his  horse  by 
the  stones  thrown  at  him.  One  of  his  attendants  was 
killed  by  the  Spahis,  while  his  master  was  borne  into  the 
palace.  The  Sultan,  desiring  to  save  Hafiz  from  his  fate, 
sent  him  from  the  water  gate  of  the  Seraglio  across  to 
Scutari.  By  this  time  the  rebels  had  filled  the  second 
court  where  the  Divan  was  usually  held.  They  clamoured 
for  the  Sultan,  who  soon  appeared,  and,  standing  before 
them,  demanded  their  wishes.  The  mutineers  fiercely 
answered:  "Give  us  the  seventeen  heads !  Give  us  these 
men  or  it  will  fare  the  worse  with  thee !  "  The  savage 
crowd  pressed  closely  about  Murad,  and  gave  no  heed  to 
his  words;  and  so  threatening  was  their  bearing  that  the 
Sultan's  attendants  drew  him  within  the  inner  court,  and 
fortunately  succeeded  in  barring  the  gate  in  time  to  shut 
out  the  furious  mob,  which  now  shouted  again  and  again, 
"  The  seventeen  heads,  or  abdicate !  " 

The  real  instigators  of  the  uprising,  the  deadly  enemies 
of  Hafiz,  now  seriously  represented  to  the  young  Sultan 
that  his  own  head  was  in  imminent  peril  if  he  refused  the 
demands  of  the  Spahis.  Sadly  he  recalled  Hafiz,  and  met 
him  at  the  water  gate.  Murad  then  proceeded  to  the  inner 
court,  ascended  the  throne,  and  received  the  deputies  of  the 


SELIM   II.   TO   ABDUL   MEDJID.  129 

rebels.  He  implored  them  not  to  profane  his  honour  as 
Caliph;  but  their  only  reply  was,  "The  seventeen  heads  !  " 
Meantime  Hafiz  had  performed  the  ablutions  and  cere- 
monies  preparatory  for  death,  and  now  presented  himself, 
saying:  — 

"  'My  Padishah,  let  a  thousand  slaves  such  as  Hafiz  perish 
for  thy  sake.  I  only  entreat  that  thou  do  not  thyself  put  me  to 
death,  but  give  me  up  to  these  men,  that  I  may  die  a  martyr, 
and  that  my  innocent  blood  may  come  upon  their  heads.  Let 
my  body  be  buried  at  Scutari.'  He  then  kissed  the  earth,  and 
exclaimed,  '  In  the  name  of  God,  the  All-merciful,  the  All-good. 
There  is  no  power  or  might  save  with  God,  the  most  High, 
the  Almighty.  His  we  are,  and  unto  Him  we  return.'  Hallz 
then  strode  forth,  a  hero,  into  the  fatal  court.  The  Sultan 
sobbed  aloud,  the  pages  wept  bitterly,  the  viziers  gazed  with 
tearful  eyes.  The  rebels  rushed  to  meet  him  as  he  advanced. 
To  sell  his  life  as  amart3'r,  he  struck  the  foremost  to  the  ground 
with  a  well-aimed  buffet,  on  which  the  rest  sprang  on  him  with 
their  daggers,  and  pierced  him  with  seventeen  mortal  wounds. 
A  Janissary  knelt  on  his  breast  and  struck  off  his  head.  The 
pages  of  the  Seraglio  came  forward  and  spread  a  robe  over  the 
corpse.  Then  said  the  Sultan,  '  God's  will  be  done  !  But  in  His 
appointed  time  ye  shall  meet  with  vengeance,  ye  men  of  blood, 
who  have  neither  the  fear  of  God  before  your  eyes,  nor  respect 
for  the  law  of  the  Prophet.'  The  threat  was  little  heeded  at  the 
time,  but  it  was  uttered  by  one  who  never  menaced  in  vain."  ^ 

Many  other  victims  were  sacrificed  to  the  rebellious 
troops.  The  deposition  of  Murad  was  freely  discussed, 
and  he  began  to  learn  the  Turkish  lesson,  "Kill  or  be 
killed."  He  surrounded  himself  with  some  of  the  better 
men  of  his  empire;  and  a  little  later,  his  plans  being 
made,  Murad  hold  a  ])ublic  divan  on  the  seashore,  and 
summoned  a  dcputiition  of  the  Spahis  to  attend  him. 
Meantime  he  addressed   the  Janissaries,    assuming   that 

^  Sir  Edw.ird  Creasy. 
9 


130  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

they  were  faithful  to  him.  They  replied  to  him  with 
enthusiastic  loyalty,  and  on  the  Koran  took  the  oath  of 
fealty.  When  the  deputies  of  the  Spaliis  arrived,  and 
witnessed  this  oath  of  the  Janissaries,  they  knew  but  too 
well  that  unless  they  were  submissive  also,  the  Janissaries 
would  soon  exterminate  them ;  and  so,  when  the  oath  was 
required  of  them,  they  took  it  with  fear  and  haste. 

Murad  next  commanded  the  presence  of  the  judges,  and 
accused  them  of  selling  their  judgments.  They  replied 
that  they  were  intimidated  by  the  rebels,  and  one  brave 
judge  exclaimed,  "My  Padishah,  the  only  cure  for  all 
these  troubles  is  by  the  edge  of  the  sword."  The  whole 
assembly  gazed  on  this  man,  and  his  words  were 
registered. 

The  terrific  vengeance  of  the  Sultan  was  speedily  put  in 
hand ;  and  all  over  the  provinces,  but  especially  in  Con- 
stantinople, the  work  of  death  went  on.  The  scimitar 
and  bowstring  were  never  idle.  Murad  was  avenged  for 
his  humiliation.  The  frightful  slaughter  was  conducted 
by  his  own  orders.  Each  morning  saw  piles  of  corpses  on 
the  shores  of  the  Bosphorus,  which  had  been  thrown  up  at 
night;  and  among  them  the  people  recognized  the  Spahis 
and  Janissaries  who  had  so  proudly  dictated  to  the  Sultan. 

Murad  was  now  twenty  years  old.  He  was  manly  and 
handsome,  and  of  a  demeanour  which  emphasized  the  awe 
which  his  ferocity  inspired.  He  rode  in  the  Hippodrome 
each  day,  and  displayed  his  strength  and  skill  in  the  use 
of  both  bow  and  sword.  By  night  he  rambled  over  the 
city  in  disguise,  and  with  his  own  hand  inflicted  fatal 
punishment  on  those  who  were  disobeying  his  police  regu- 
lations. Did  crowds  gather,  the  Sultan  was  soon  in  their 
midst,  well  armed  and  well  guarded.  He  feared  neither 
Spahis  nor  Janissaries ;  and  they  hastened  from  his  sight, 
fearful  lest  his  eagle  eye  should  recognize  them,  and  their 
doom  be  pronounced. 


SELIM  II.   TO   ABDUL  MEDJID.  131 

Thus  murder  became  Murad's  habit.  Small  offences 
were  punished  equally  with  greater,  until  those  who  knew 
that  they  were  to  meet  him  made  the  death  ablution  as 
their  appropriate  preparation.  He  became  so  moody  that 
he  imagined  wrong  where  none  existed.  On  one  occasion 
a  party  of  women  whose  only  offence  was  that  of  dancing 
in  a  meadow,  were  drowned  by  his  order,  because  he  could 
not  endure  the  sight  of  merriment.  Again,  a  boat  tilled 
with  women  passed  too  near  the  palace  to  please  him,  and 
he  turned  his  batteries  on  them  and  sent  them  to  the 
bottom,  while  he  watched  the  scene.  He  killed  his  chief 
musician  for  singing  a  Persian  air,  which  he  chose  to 
construe  as  doing  honour  to  his  enemies. 

As  this  Sultan  grew  older,  he  had  the  habit  of  intoxi- 
cation, and  language  fails  to  depict  his  cruelty;  but  on 
one  occasion  the  wit  of  his  victim  saved  his  life.  "  The 
son  of  a  slave,"  is  a  term  often  applied  by  the  Turks  to 
their  ruler;  and  on  one  of  his  nocturnal  excursions  he  met 
Mustapha  Bekir,  a  famous  drunkard,  who  told  Murad  that 
he  possessed  that  which  would  buy  all  Constantinople,  even 
"the  son  of  a  slave"  himself.  Next  morning  Mustapha 
was  brought  before  the  Sultan,  who  reminded  him  of  his 
words,  whereupon  Bekir  drew  a  flask  of  wine  from  his 
robe,  and  gave  it  to  the  Sultan,  saying,  "Here  is  a  liquid 
gold,  which  outweighs  the  treasures  of  the  universe,  for  it 
makes  a  beggar  more  glorious  than  a  king,  and  turns  the 
mendicant  Fakir  into  a  horned  Alexander."  Murad  was 
pleased  with  the  l)old  joyousness  of  the  drunkard.  He 
took  the  flask  and  drained  it,  and  was  thenceforward  a 
boon  companion  to  Mustapha  Bekir. 

Wlicn  hundreds  of  people  were  daily  dying  in  Constan- 
tinople of  the  plague,  Murad  passed  his  nights  in  revels, 
saying:  "This  summer  Ood  is  punishing  the  rogues;  per- 
hafts  by  wintci-  He  will  come  to  the  honest  men." 

Strangely  enough,   however,   when  liis  duties  required 


132  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

his  attention,  his  abstemiousness  and  vigilance  were  un- 
equalled, and  his  ability  to  labour  was  phenomenal.  He 
Avas  a  thorough  disciplinarian,  not  only  in  military,  but 
in  civil  affairs.  He  put  an  end  to  the  power  which  had 
been  usurped  by  the  petty  tyrants  who  had  flourished 
under  his  predecessors.  He  instituted  just  tribunals,  and 
insisted  that  the  revenues  should  be  promptly  raised  and 
honestly  expended. 

In  the  early  years  of  his  reign  he  could  not  leave  Con- 
stantinople with  safety  to  his  government  or  to  himself. 
When,  after  ten  years,  he  went  to  Nicomedia,  he  hanged 
the  chief  judge  because  the  roads  were  badly  kept.  The 
news  of  this  act  created  an  excitement  in  the  capital,  and 
the  Valideh  Mahpeikc  informed  Murad  of  what  was  said 
of  him.  He  at  once  returned  to  Constantinople,  and  put 
the  Grand  Mufti  —  the  spiritual  chief  of  Islam  and  the 
head  of  legislation  —  to  death.  This  is  the  sole  instance 
of  the  execution  of  a  Mufti  by  a  Sultan's  command. 

The  story  of  the  military  achievements  of  Murad  IV. 
does  not  belong  here;- but  so  great  was  his  success  in 
Persia,  that  for  eighty  years  that  power,  always  so  trouble- 
some, ceased  its  attacks  on  Turkey.  On  his  return  from 
the  conquest  of  Bagdad,  in  June,  1638,  the  Sultan  made  a 
triumphal  entry  into  Constantinople,  which  was  described 
by  a  Turkish  historian  who  is  cited  by  Hulme.  He 
says : — 

"The  Sultan  repaired  to  his  palace  with  splenrtour  and  mag- 
nificence which  no  tongue  can  tell,  and  no  pen  adequately  illus- 
trate. The  balconies  and  roofs  of  the  houses  were  everywhere 
thronged  with  people,  who  exclaimed  with  enthusiasm,  '  The 
blessing  of  God  be  on  thee,  O  Conqueror  !  Welcome,  Amurath  ! 
May  thy  victories  be  fortunate  ! '  The  Sultan  was  sheathed  in 
resplendent  armour  of  polished  steel,  with  a  leopard-skin  over 
his  shoulders,  and  wore  in  his  turban  a  triple  aigrette,  placed 
obliquely,  in  the  Persian  mode.     He  rode  a  Nogai  charger,  and 


SELIM   II.   TO   ABDUL  MEDJID.  133 

was  followed  by  seven  led  Arab  horses  with  jewelled  caparisons, 
while  trumpets  and  cymbals  resounded  before  him,  and  twenty- 
two  Persian  Khans  were  led  cai)tive  at  the  imperial  stirrups. 
As  he  passed  along,  he  looked  proudly  on  each  side,  like  a  lion 
who  has  seized  his  prey,  and  saluted  the  people,  who  shouted 
'  Barik-Allah  ! '  and  threw  themselves  on  the  ground.  All  the 
vessels  of  war  fired  constant  salutes,  so  that  the  sea  seemed  in 
a  blaze ;  and  seven  days  and  nights  were  devoted  to  constant 
rejoicings." 

This  pageant  assumes  important  proportions  when  we 
know  that  it  was  the  last  spectacle  witnessed  in  Constan- 
tinople in  celebration  of  the  triumphal  return  of  a  Sultan 
who  had  personally  conducted  his  armies,  and  we  cannot 
realize  when  we  see  the  Europcanizcd  capital  of  our  time 
that  such  barbaric  splendours  could  have  been  habitual 
here  for  many  centuries. 

The  final  act  in  Murad's  life  was  consistent  with  his 
cruel  nature.  Whether  he  desired  his  favourite  to  succeed 
him,  or  whether  it  gratified  his  wicked  heart  to  let  his 
house  and  dynasty  end  with  him,  is  not  known ;  but  in  his 
last  hour  he  commanded  the  murder  of  his  only  brother, 
Ibrahim.  The  Sultana  Valideh  —  mother  sultana  —  pre- 
served Ibrahim's  life,  but  told  Murad  that  his  command 
had  been  executed.  Though  absolutely  dying,  this  cruel 
wretch  smiled  horriljly,  and  raised  himself  in  bed,  hoping 
to  see  his  brother's  dead  face;  but  his  attendants  held 
him  down,  and  at  that  moment  the  priest  entered  to  read 
the  prayers,  which  were  scarcely  begun  when  the  last 
warrior  Sultan  ceased  to  live. 

Ibrahim  proved  the  most  bestial  of  his  line,  which  is 
not  surprising  when  we  remember  that  he  had  been  shut 
off  from  the  life  of  the  world  for  years ;  that  he  had  been 
in  hourly  expectation  of  death,  and  had  been  permitted 
to  indulge  the  animal  side  of  his  nature  to  the  fullest 
extent. 


134  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

From  Hi  is  time  until  the  beginning  of  our  century  the 
government  of  Turkey  was  in  the  hands  of  viziers,  some 
of  them  being  men  of  great  talent.  There  were  occasional 
deeds  of  courage  and  probity  which  indicate  that,  had 
their  lines  fallen  in  the  days  when  their  nation  was  grow- 
ing rather  than  decaying,  they  would  have  left  names  to 
be  remembered. 

But  there  is  neither  pleasure  nor  profit  in  the  history  of 
Turkey  from  the  time  when  the  Vizier  Mohammed  Kinprili 
executed  thirty-six  thousand  people  in  five  years,  and  the 
chief  executioner  strangled  an  average  of  three  a  day  with 
his  own  hand,  to  that  when,  through  the  murder  of  Selim 
and  Mustapha  IV.,  Mahmoud  II.  became  Sultan  in  1808. 

Besides  the  execution  of  the  deposed  Sultan,  Mahmoud 
II.  thought  it  necessary  to  drown  in  sacks  one  hundred 
and  seventy -four  of  his  wives  and  odalisques,  and  to 
l)ehead  a  great  number  of  other  persons.  By  these 
measures  he  ended  the  rebellion  that  had  placed  him  on 
the  throne.  On  the  day  of  his  proclamation  as  Sultan,  at 
the  gate  of  the  Seraglio,  thirty-three  heads  were  exposed 
to  public  gaze. 

His  reign  of  thirty-one  years  was  a  period  of  constant 
wars  without  and  revolts  within ;  and  though  on  the  whole 
the  power  of  the  Ottoman  Empire  was  lessened,  and  noth- 
ing was  done  to  improve  or  adorn  the  capital,  still  there 
are  reasons  why  Mahmoud  II.  should  l)c  remembered  as 
one  of  the  most  enlightened  and  powerful  of  the  Ottoman 
rulers.  He  had  employed  his  years  of  captivity  in  study. 
He  introduced  beneficial  measures  in  the  life  of  the  women 
of  the  Seraglio.  He  also  endeavoured  to  better  the  condi- 
tions of  the  Christians  subject  to  him,  and  he  must  be 
credited  with  the  attempt  to  introduce  civilization  into 
his  domains. 

The  final  levy  of  boys  for  the  Janissary  corps  was  made 
in    1675.     Three   thousand   were   then    recruited.      This 


SELIM   II    TO   ABDUL   MEDJID.  135 

custom  had  already  been  partly  abandoned,  as  the  position 
was  considered  so  advantageous  that  it  was  sought  for  the 
Children  of  the  Faithful,  and  the  sons  of  Janissaries  were 
admitted  to  their  ranks.  The  levies  of  Christian  children 
thus  came  to  bo  made  for  th(!  corps  of  one  thousand  pages 
of  the  Seraglio  rather  than  for  the  Janissaries,  and  even 
these  Avere  less  and  less  frequent. 

The  Janissaries,  too,  had  undergone  a  change.  In  the 
fifteenth  century  they  were  superior  to  the  European 
soldiers.  In  the  seventeenth  century  the  European  armies 
had  been  disci jtlined  and  improved,  while  the  Moslem 
corps  was  inferior  to  its  first  estate,  and  in  every  way  less 
effective. 

As  soon  as  Mahmoud  IT.  was  proclaimed  Sultan  and  the 
Pasha  of  Rustchuk,  Mustapha  Bairactar,  was  installed  as 
Grand  Vizier,  the  latter  made  a  plan  by  which  to  super- 
sede the  Janissaries  with  a  new  force  called  the  Seymens, 
a  name  which  had  belonged  to  an  ancient  Ottoman  corps. 
The  Janissaries  and  the  Ulema  —  men  learned  in  the  law 
—  pretended  to  approve  this  plan ;  and  Bairactar  permitted 
the  Albanian  troops  which  he  controlled  to  depart,  not 
retaining  more  than  four  thousand  men  in  Constantinople, 
on  whom  he  could  rely.  Fortunately  there  were,  near 
Scutari,  eight  thousand  Asiatic  troops  under  his  friend 
Cadi   Pasha. 

When  the  Janissaries  found  themselves  in  so  favoui-able 
a  position,  they  surrounded  the  palace  of  Bairactar  and  set 
it  on  fire.  There  the  Vizier  perished,  and  the  Janissaries 
at  once  fiercely  attacked  the  new  troops;  but  Cadi  Pasha 
with  his  men  joined  the  struggle,  and  for  two  days  there 
was  savage  fighting  in  the  streets  of  Constantinople. 
Whole  districts  were  destroyed  as  well  as  magazines  and 
military  stores,  and  the  Janissaries  came  off  victorious. 
During  this  struggle  the  palace  gates  were  closed,  and  tlic 
deposed  Sultan,  Mustapha  IV.,   was  murdered.      By  this 


136  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

means  Malnnoud  II.  was  the  sole  survivor  of  the  house  of 
Othman,  and  he  knew  that  tliis  fact  gave  him  a  charmed 
life.  In  spite  of  this  he  found  it  necessary  to  propitiate 
the  Janissaries,  and  he  issued  an  edict  in  their  favour. 
All  the  European  innovations  which  had  been  introduced 
were  abolished.  The  old  customs  were  restored,  and  dark- 
ness replaced  the  gleams  of  light  which  had  penetrated  to 
the  heart  of  Constantinople  and  the  Ottoman  Empire. 

Still  there  existed  in  the  capital  wise  and  thoughtful 
men,  who  felt  that  changes  must  be  made  and  sweeping 
reforms  instituted.  But  as  yet  they  dared  not  whisper 
this,  although  they  were  determined  to  prepare  for  the 
time  when  practical  steps  could  be  taken. 

Mahmoud  II.  had  a  will  and  a  patience  that  were  phe- 
nomenal; and  although  his  reign  opened  with  a  war  with 
Russia  which  was  terminated  by  the  treaty  of  Bucharest 
in  1812,  the  foes  at  home  were  never  out  of  his  mind. 
Success  and  advantage  abroad  had  little  meaning  com-, 
pared  with  his  desire  to  be  master  in  his  own  capital. 
Wherever  he  went,  whatever  he  did,  the  knowledge  that 
he  was  not  independent  of  his  own  soldiers  was  a  torture 
to  him. 

There  were  abuses  in  the  distant  provinces  of  his 
empire,  where  ruling  pashas  felt  and  manifested  an  inde- 
pendence of  the  Sultan  that  was  exasperating,  and  even 
near  at  home  smaller  Derebeys  disregarded  his  wishes, 
and  almost  set  him  at  defiance.  More  powerful  chiefs, 
like  Mehemet  Ali  in  Egypt  and  Ali  Pasha  in  Jannina, 
even  threatened  the  Ottoman  Empire  with  dismember- 
ment, and  the  former  succeeded  in  so  firml}'^  establishing 
himself  in  the  city  of  the  Mamelukes  as  to  be  able  to  leave 
to  his  descendants  the  power  which  he  had  won.  But 
the  splendid  and  cruel  "  old  lion  of  Jannina  "  was  lured 
into  the  power  of  Mahmoud 's  general  by  a  pretence  of 
capitulation  and  traitorously  murdered. 


SELIM  II.   TO   ABDUL   MEDJID.  137 

The  schemes  of  Mahmoud  and  his  sympathizers  for  the 
disbanding  of  the  Janissaries  Avcre  numerous ;  but  there 
was  ever  some  circumstance  which  prevented  the  accom- 
plishment of  so  difficult  a  move  as  to  displace  a  large 
body  of  imperial  troops,  who  had  every  advantage  of 
place,  possession  of  arms  and  munitions,  and  many  other 
equally  favourable  conditions  in  their  hands. 

But  finally  the  end  came.  Every  Janissary  was  doomed, 
and  the  example  of  Mehemet  All  in  the  massacre  of  the 
Mamelukes  was  savagely  followed,  although  Mahmoud 
did  not  treacherously  invite  them  as  friends  in  order  to 
accomplish  his  end.  The  destruction  of  this  corps  was 
the  great  event  in  the  reign  of  Mahmoud,  and  of  more 
importance  to  Turkey,  above  all  to  Constantinople,  than 
the  wars  with  Russia  and  Egypt. 

^[ahmoud  had  made  most  extensive  and  careful  prepara- 
tion. Although  each  year  of  his  reign  had  been  disturbed 
by  the  turbulence  of  the  Janissaries;  although  they  had 
kindled  destructive  fires  and  committed  other  unscrupu- 
lous acts  of  violence  in  Constantinople,  he  knew  that  he 
must  endure  all  until  fully  prepared  to  succeed.  A  failure 
would  cost  him  all  that  he  valued.  He  foresaw,  too,  that 
an  open  battle  in  the  streets  must  be  his  method  of  con- 
quest. He  gradually  increased  his  artillery  force,  and 
was  careful  to  see  that  its  officers  were  his  faithful  sup- 
porters until  it  at  length  numbered  14,000,  and  was  led 
by  that  Ibrahim  who,  after  the  day  that  proved  fatal  to 
the  Janissaries,  was  known  as  Kara  Djehennin,  —  Black 
Hell. 

Moreover  Mahmoud  had  appointed  another  loyal  friend 
to  ])C  the  Agha  of  the  Janissaries;  and  the  Grand  Vizier, 
equally  devoted  to  the  Sultan,  was  able  to  summon  a 
large  body  of  trustworthy  troops  from  the  Asiatic  shore. 
Mahmoud  had  also  convinced  the  Ulomn,  or  Judges,  of 
their  error  in  8U])porting  the  Janissaries,  who  had  long 


138  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

since  survived  their  original  usefulness,  and  were  now 
the  curse  of  Constantinople  and  other  parts  of  the 
empire. 

It  was  not  his  part  to  institute  procedings  against  this 
unruly  body.  The  actual,  api)arent  cause  of  the  end  must 
be  some  outrageous  conduct  of  the  Janissaries  themselves. 
At  no  time  would  such  an  occasion  be  far  distant.  There 
were  but  brief  intervals  between  the  mutinies  of  this 
corps,  when  they  gave  the  signal  of  revolt  by  overturning 
their  kettles  in  the  Hippodrome,  and  proceeded  to  per- 
petrate their  outrages.  When  this  occurred,  on  June  15, 
1826,  the  Sultan  was  ready  for  the  contest.  He  unfolded 
the  Sacred  Standard  of  the  Prophet  himself,  and  called 
on  all  true  Mohammedans  to  follow  him,  their  Caliph,  as 
well  as  their  Padishah. 

The  enthusiasm  of  the  people  of  Constantinople  knew 
no  bounds,  and  they  rallied  about  Mahmoud  by  thousands, 
while  the  artillery  and  the  Asiatic  troops  gave  more  sub- 
stantial aid.  As  the  Janissaries  appeared  in  the  streets, 
they  were  met  and  cut  down  with  grape  shot  by  the 
soldiers  under  command  of  Black  Hell.  They  had  in- 
tended to  go  to  the  Seraglio,  but  turned  back  to  the 
Etmeidan  or  Hippodrome,  and  there  defended  themselves 
with  their  muskets  most  courageously.  Many  were 
killed,  and  at  length  they  retreated  to  their  barracks, 
and  prepared  to  resist  desperately  the  assault  they  an- 
ticipated. 

But  Mahmoud  and  his  advisers  determined  not  to  sacri- 
fice the  lives  that  must  be  lost  by  such  a  method;  and,  the 
artillery  being  properly  placed,  a  continuous  shower  of 
shot  and  shell  was  mercilessly  poured  upon  the  mutineers. 
Some  of  them,  driven  to  desperation,  sallied  forth,  weapons 
in  hand,  but  were  quickly  shot  down  even  while  they 
begged  for  mercy.  Mahmoud  had  decreed  the  absolute 
extermination  of  the  Janissaries  ;  and  that  end  was  nccom- 


SELIM  II.   TO   ABDUL   MEDJID.  139 

plished  when  finally  the  barracks  took  fire  and  the  last  of 
their  number  in  Constantinople  perished  in  the  flames. 
The  Hippodrome  was  then  closed  for  years. 

It  is  estimated  that  four  thousand  Janissaries  perished 
in  the  capital  in  that  single  day,  after  which  Mahmoud  pro- 
ceeded to  exterminate  the  force  in  all  parts  of  the  empire. 
Their  standards  were  destroyed,  and  so  far  as  possible  no 
reminder  of  them  was  permitted  to  survive.  New  troops 
were  organized,  and  soon  numbered  forty  thousand,  and 
were  gradually  increased.  This  vast  change  had  been 
accomplished  by  the  steadfast  will  of  Mahmoud  II.,  who 
now  proclaimed  the  name  of  his  new  soldiers  to  be  the 
"Victorious  Mahometan  Armies,"  and  commanded  them 
to  sustain  the  Ottoman  religion  and  empire.  Mliltke,  in 
his  able  history  of  Mahmoud's  reign,  says:  — 

"If  Turkey  had  enjoyed  ten  years  of  peace. after  the  de- 
struction of  the  Janissaries,  Sultan  Mahmoud's  military  re- 
forms miglit  in  that  time  have  gained  some  strength ;  and, 
supported  by  an  army  upon  which  he  could  depend,  the  Sultan 
migljt  have  carried  out  the  needful  reforms  in  the  administra- 
tion of  his  country,  have  infused  new  life  into  the  dead  branches 
of  tlie  Ottoman  Empire,  and  made  himself  formidable  to  his 
neighbours.  All  this  was  prevented  by  Russia,  which  nipped 
the  Sultan's  military  reforms  in  the  bud." 

At  all  events,  the  vigour  and  al)ility  of  the  Sultan 
alarmed  his  enemies,  and  they  hastened  to  In'ing  con- 
fusion to  his  plans  before  he  could  well  establish  his  new 
policy. 

There  arc  few  chapters  in  history  more  interesting  than 
the  entire  career  of  Mahmoud  II.  ;  but  it  has  so  much 
more  to  do  with  diplomatic  affairs,  treaties  and  wars, 
than  with  Constantinople,  that  we  nuist  only  add  that  he 
died  July  1,  1839;  "and  as  gallant  a  spirit  left  the  earth 
as  ever  strove  against  the  spites  of  fortune,  as  ever  toiled 


140  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

for  a  nation's  good  in  preparing  benefits  the  maturity  of 
which  it  was  not  permitted  to  behold."  ^ 

The  hirheh  of  Mahmoud  11.  near  the  Burnt  Cohimn  is 
the  most  splendid,  as  it  is  the  latest  tomb  of  a  Sultan. 
Its  Corinthian  style  of  architecture  is  certainly  out  of 
keeping  here,  but  it  is  exceedingly  attractive  in  its  fresh- 
ness of  white  marble  and  gilt  grated  windows,  as  it  stands 
in  a  luxuriant  grove,  with  bright  flower-beds  here  and 
there.  Besides  Mahmoud  the  Sultana  is  buried  here,  her 
five  daughters,  and  a  sister  of  the  Sultan.  The  biers  are 
covered  with  richly  embroidered  velvet,  that  of  "the 
Reformer  "  being  purple.  At  the  head  is  his  fez,  with 
diamond  aigrette  and  plume.  There  are  shawls  of  extreme 
value  thrown  across  these  biers.  Those  of  the  Sultan  and 
Sultana  are  surrounded  with  mother-of-pearl  railings, 
while  Koran-stands  richly  inlaid  with  silver  and  mother- 
of-pearl  and  massive  candlesticks  in  silver  are  in  pro- 
fusion. The  Korans  here  are  very  fine,  and  are  held 
sacred.  The  cupola  is  decorated  with  stalactites  of  gold 
and  delicate  cornices,  while  silk  damask  hangings  soften 
the  light.  The  only  thing  that  is  disturbing  is  a  large, 
cut-glass  chandelier,  such  as  one  sees  in  a  modern  ball- 
room, and  I  could  but  wonder  whether  it  were  put  there 
when  the  tomb  was  built  by  Mahmoud  six  years  before 
his  death.  It  looks  more  as  if  Abdul  Aziz  might  have 
brought  it  from  Paris,  and  given  his  father's  tomb  as 
bizarre  and  mongrel  an  air  as  he  imparted  to  much  else 
in  his  city  on  the  Bosphorus. 

The  important  matters  which  had  largely  occupied  Mah- 
moud II.,  and  continue  to  be  the  burning  questions  with  the 
Sultan  of  Turkey  to-day,  are  not  especially  connected  with 
Constantinople,  except  as  it  has  sometimes  seemed  likely 
to  pass  into  other  hands  than  those  of  the  Ottoman  rulers. 

During  Mahmoud's  reign,  and  in  the  succeeding  years 
the  following  important  events  have  occurred. 

1  Creasy. 


SELIM   II.   TO   ABDUL   MEDJID.  141 

In  1832  Greece  was  made  an  independent  government. 
In  1840  the  position  of  Mehemet  All  was  defined,  and  Jic 
Ijecame  the  Pasha  of  Egypt,  tributary  to  the  Sultan,  with 
the  riglit  of  succession  for  his  family.  In  1841  a  conven- 
tion signed  at  London  by  the  representatives  of  England, 
Austria,  France,  Prussia,  Russia,  and  Turkey,  put  the  Dar- 
danelles and  Bosphorus  under  the  control  of  the  Porte,  and 
excluded  the  war-ships  of  all  nations  from  these  waters. 
The  Crimean  War  ended  in  1855,  and  the  treaty  of  Paris 
was  signed  the  following  year,  by  which  the  Sublime 
Porte  was  admitted  to  participate  in  the  advantages  of  the 
Public  Law  and  System  of  Europe.  In  the  same  year  the 
Sultan  forbade  further  importation  of  slaves  into  his  ter- 
ritory. In  1860  there  were  serious  disturbances  in  Syria. 
In  1867  Servia  vfas  made  independent  of  the  Porte.  In 
1875  there  were  serious  disturbances  in  Montenegro  and 
Herzegovina,  and  in  the  same  year  interest  was  defaulted 
on  the  Turkish  bonds.  Serious  troubles  wliich  had  pre- 
vailed in  Servia  for  a  long  period  were  settled  by  a  conven- 
tion in  Constantinople  in  1877.  In  March  of  the  same 
year  the  first  Turkish  Parliament  was  assembled  and  con- 
ducted on  English  principles.  In  1870  a  war  with  Russia 
occurred,  and  terms  were  not  made  until  the  Russians 
were  absolutely  in  sight  of  Constantinople.  A  treaty  was 
signed  at  San  Stefano  in  1878;  but  this  not  proving  satis- 
factory to  the  European  powers,  —  it  was  too  damaging  to 
Turkey,  and  Lord  Beaconsfield  interfered,  • —  a  new  treaty 
was  made  at  Berlin  in  the  same  year,  more  to  the  satis- 
faction of  the  European  Powers. 

We  sec  l)y  this  concise  review  that  the  present  century 
lins  brought  many  changes  to  the  Ottoman  Em})ire;  but 
ill  the  midst  of  all  it  has  grown  more  and  more  decrepit, 
:iii(l  it  would  seem  tliat  its  end  is  not  far  off. 

The  reform  which  Mahmoud  II.  introduced  in  educating 
flic   princes  who  were   i)0ssible  heirs   to  the  throne  was 


142  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

invaluable;  and  his  eldest  surviving  son,  Abdul  Medjid, 
who  came  to  the  throne  at  sixteen,  was  a  youth  of  unusual 
intellectual  power,  and  of  earnestness  beyond  his  years. 
But  while  he  was  sincerely  desirous  of  improving  the  con- 
dition of  his  empire,  he  was  overcome  with  self-indulgence, 
and  inaugurated  such  extravagance  at  his  court  as  brought 
the  country  to  the  verge  of  bankruptcy.  His  pageants 
were  magnificent.  That  of  the  Lesser  Bairam,  which 
occurs  at  the  end  of  the  great  fast  of  Ramadan,  the 
Moslem  Lent,  and  lasts  three  days,  was  witnessed  by 
Theophile  Gauticr  in  1853,  and  we  quote  from  his  account 
of  it:  — 

"  The  Bairam  is  a  ceremony  similar  in  kind  to  the  hand-kiss- 
iug  in  Spain ;  and  all  the  great  dignitaries  of  the  empire  come 
to  pay  their  homage  to  the  Padishah.  Turkish  magnificence 
is  then  seen  in  all  its  splendour.  .  .  .  Despite  the  early  hour, 
the  Golden  Horn,  and  the  large  basin  which  expands  at  its 
entrance,  presented  a  most  animated  scene.  All  the  vessels 
were  decorated  with  many-coloured  flags  and  streamers,  from 
boom  to  truck.  A  vast  number  of  gilded  boats,  decorated  with 
superb  carpets  or  tapestries,  and  manned  by  vigorous  oarsmen, 
flew  across  the  rose-tinted  water ;  and  these  boats,  laden  with 
pashas,  viziers,  beys,  and  other  dignitaries,  were  all  directing 
their  course  towards  Serai-Bournon. 

"  At  length  the  gates  of  the  Seraglio  were  thrown  open, 
and  we  passed  through  a  court  lined  with  cypresses,  sycamores, 
and  plane-trees,  of  enormous  size  ;  bordered  with  kiosks  of 
Chinese  design,  and  buildings  with  battlemented  walls  and  demi- 
turrets,  resembling  somewhat  the  English  feudal  architecture, — 
a  melange^  in  fact,  of  garden,  palace,  and  fortress  ;  until  we 
reached  an  inner  court,  at  the  angle  of  which  rises  the  ancient 
church  of  Saint  Irene,  now  transformed  into  an  arsenal ;  and 
where  is  also  a  small  building,  pierced  with  numerous  windows, 
and  devoted  to  the  use  of  foreign  embassies ;  from  which  can 
be  seen  all  that  passes. 

*'  The  ceremony  commenced  with  a  religious  act.     The  Sultan, 


SELIM   II.   TO   ABDUL   MEDJID.  143 

accompanied  by  his  chief  officers,  goes  to  perform  his  (levotions 
in  Saint  Sophia.  .  .  .  Presently,  a  powerful  band  was  heard, 
playing  a  Turkish  march  ;  the  troops  stood  to  their  arms  and 
formed  a  line ;  these  soldiers,  forming  a  part  of  the  imperial 
guard,  were  dressed  in  white  trousers  and  red  jackets,  and  wore 
the  fez.  The  officers  mounted  superb  horses.  The  Sultan, 
arrived  from  his  summer  palace,  directed  his  course  towards 
Saint  Sophia.  Now  come  the  Grand  Vizier,  the  Seraskier,  the 
Capitan  Pasha,  and  the  other  ministers,  all  clad  in  the  straight 
frock-coat  of  the  Reform,  but  so  covered  with  gold  embroidery 
that  it,  required  a  sharp  eye  to  detect  any  feature  of  European 
costume  ;  although,  on  the  other  hand,  the  tarbouch  was  not 
sufficient  to  Orientalize  it.  They  were  surrounded  by  groups  of 
officers,  secretaries,  and  other  subordinates,  superbly  dressed, 
and  also  mounted  upon  magnificent  horses.  Then  came  pashas, 
beys  of  provinces,  aghas,  selictars,  and  other  officials,  com- 
l)Osing  the  four  odas  of  the  Selamlik,  whose  functions  are, 
this  one  to  un-boot  the  Sultan,  that  to  hold  his  stirrup,  and 
the  other  to  hand  him  the  napkin  ;  and  finally,  the  Chief  of 
the  Pages,  and  a  host  of  inferiors  of  the  household  of  the 
Padishah. 

"  Next  advanced  a  detachment  of  the  body-guard,  selected  for 
their  superb  appearance,  wearing  tunics  of  velvet,  embroidered 
with  gold  of  amazing  richness  ;  trousers  of  white  silk,  and  caps 
shaped  like  an  inverted  mortar,  surmounted  by  immense  [)lumes 
of  peacock's  feathers,  two  or  three  feet  in  height.  They  are 
armed  with  curved  sabres,  suspended  from  a  broad  belt  of  the 
richest  gold  embroidery,  and  large  gilded  and  damascened  hal- 
berds, the  blades  of  which  are  formed  into  those  grotesque  and 
ferocious  looking  shapes  characteristic  of  tlie  ancient  Asiatic 
weapons. 

"  To  these  succeeded  some  half-dozen  superb  horses,  —  barbs 
or  Arabians, —  led  by  the  hand,  and  caparisoned  with  housings 
and  head-stalls  of  inconceivable  richness.  Tliese  housings,  em- 
i)roidered  with  gold  and  starred  with  precious  stones,  were  also 
enriched  by  the  imperial  cipher,  the  complications  and  inter- 
lacings  of  wliicli  compose  an  eh'gant  arabesque.     The  luxury 


144  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

of  these  caparisons  takes,  with  the  Turks,  the  place  which  with 
us  is  conceded  to  the  ornamentatiou  of  our  carriages  ;  although 
now  not  a  few  of  the  Pashas  import  carriages  from  Paris  or 
Vienna.  These  horses  immediately  preceded  the  Sultan,  who 
was  mounted  upon  another  noble  beast ;  whose  housings  glowed 
with  rubies,  topazes,  pearls,  emeralds,  and  other  precious  stones, 
forming  the  flowers  of  a  mass  of  golden  foliage. 

"Behind  the  Sultan  marched  the  chiefs  of  the  black  and  white 
eunuchs ;  then  a  corpulent  dwarf,  with  a  ferocious  visage, 
dressed  like  a  pasha,  and  answering  to  the  jesters  of  the  middle 
ages.  This  little  dwarf  was  stuck  on  top  of  a  gigantic  horse 
which  his  sliort  legs  could  hardly  bestride.  The  eunuchs  now 
wear  the  fez  and  frock-coat,  but  they  have  that  peculiar  aspect 
which  at  once  identifies  them  to  the  observer.  The  chiefs  of 
the  eunuchs  are  hideous  enough.  He  of  the  white  eunuchs  has 
a  face  covered  with  unwholesome  fat  and  furrowed  with  livid 
folds  ;  his  two  dead  eyes  shining  from  out  a  surface  of  parch- 
ment, and  his  nerveless  hanging  lip,  give  him  the  air  of  an  ill- 
tempered  old  woman.  These  monsters  are,  nevertheless,  most 
important  and  powerful  personages.  The  revenues  of  Mecca 
and  Medina  are  appropriated  to  them.  They  are  immensely 
rich,  and  make  foul  or  fair  weather  at  pleasure  in  the  Seraglio ; 
though  their  sway  is  less  than  formerly.  Nevertheless,  they 
govern  despotically  the  throngs  of  houris  whose  beauty  is  never 
profaned  by  human  eyes  ;  and  they  are  the  centre  of  countless 
intrigues. 

"A  platoon  of  body-guards  closed  the  line  of  march.  This 
brilliant  cortege,  less  varied  than  formerly,  is  still  strikingly 
gorgeous  and  original.  It  disappeared  on  its  way  to  Saint 
Sophia,  and  after  an  hour  returned  in  the  same  order. 

"  Meantime  we  had  secured  a  place  in  close  proximity  to  tlie 
kiosk,  before  which  the  foot-kissing  was  to  be  performed.  The 
Sultan,  on  his  return,  entered  the  kiosk  for  a  slight  collation  ; 
meantime  the  attendants  spread  on  the  ground,  before  the  en- 
trance to  the  kiosk,  a  strip  of  black  cashmere,  on  which  they 
placed  a  throne  ;  before  tliis  a  footstool  was  fixed,  and  it,  as  well 
as  the  throne,  was  ornamented  with  gold  of  Byzantine  work. 


SELIM  II.  TO  ABDUL   MEDJID.  145 

''When  Abdul-Medjid  re-appeared,  a  genuine  enthusiasm 
pervaded  the  whole  crowd,  Turk  or  European.  The  Sultan  re- 
mained standing  a  few  minutes,  and  could  be  plainly  scanned 
from  head  to  foot.  In  his  fez,  a  clasp  of  diamonds  secured  the 
plume  of  heron's  feathers,  which  is  the  sign  of  supreme  power ; 
a  sort  of  surtoutof  dark  blue,  fastened  by  a  buckle  of  brilliants, 
partially  concealed  the  embroidery  of  his  superb  uniform  ;  and 
these,  with  white  satin  trousers,  polished  leather  boots,  and  ex- 
quisitely fitting  straw-coloured  gloves,  formed  a  dress  which  in 
its  simplicity  outshone  the  gorgeous  costumes  of  the  subordi- 
nate personages  around  him. 

"  Presently  the  Sultan  seated  himself,  and  the  ceremony  be- 
gan. .  .  .  His  eyes  I  can  compare  to  nothing  but  suns  of  black, 
fixed  in  a  sky  of  diamond.  No  object  seems  to  reflect  itself 
in  them.  One  would  suppose  them  the  eyes  of  an  ecstatic, 
absorbed  by  some  vision  not  apparent  to  the  vulgar  gaze.  His 
physiognomy  is  not  sombre,  nor  terrible,  nor  cruel,  but  simply 
extra-human.  One  felt  that  this  young  man,  seated  like  a  deity 
upon  a  golden  throne,  had  nothing  more  to  desire  in  this  world  ; 
that  all  the  most  golden  dreams  of  humanity  were,  to  him,  but 
worn  out  and  insipid  realities  ;  and  that  he  was  gradually  freez- 
ing out  of  the  reach  of  the  warm  sympathies  of  our  nature,  in 
tlie  frigid  atmosphere  of  such  utter  solitude.  In  fact,  that, 
from  the  height  of  his  grandeur,  he  looked  down  upon  the 
earth,  as  upon  a  vague  mist,  from  amid  which  the  heads  of 
the  most  elevated  alone  were  visible  ;  and  even  those  beneath 
ills  feet ! 

"  Only  the  highest  dignitaries  of  the  Mussulman  Empire  have 
the  right  to  kiss  the  feet  of  the  glorious  Sultan.  This  surpass- 
ing honour  is  reserved  for  the  Vizier,  the  ministers,  and  a  few 
privileged  pashas.  The  Vizier  started  from  the  angle  of  the 
kiosk  at  the  right  of  the  Sultan,  and  described  a  semi-circle 
within  the  line  of  guards  and  musicians,  and,  in  front  of  the 
throne,  advanced  to  the  footstool  after  performing  the  Oriental 
salutation  ;  and  there,  bending  over  the  feet  of  his  master, 
kissed  his  boot,  as  reverontiall}'  as  a  fervent  Catholic  could 
kiss  the  toe  of  the  Pope.     This  done,  he  retired  backward,  and 

10 


146  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

gave  place  to  another.  This  was  repeated  by  seven  or  eight 
of  the  foremost  personages  of  the  empire. 

"  During  these  adorations  the  countenance  of  the  Sultan 
remained  impassive  and  expressionless.  His  fixed  dark  eyes 
looked  without  seeing  ;  no  movement  of  muscle,  no  play  of 
countenance,  nothing  to  indicate  that  he  observed  what  was 
passing.  The  superb  Padishah  could  not  see,  across  the  vast 
space  which  separated  him  from  humanity,  the  humble  worms 
that  crawled  in  the  dust  at  his  feet.  And  yet  his  immobility 
had  nothing  offensive  in  it,  or  overstrained  ;  it  was  merely  the 
drowsy  indifference  of  tiie  deity  fatigued  by  the  adoration  of  his 
devotees,  themselves  too  happy  in  being  permitted  to  adore  him. 

"Next  came  the  Sheik-ul-Islam,  in  his  white  caftan  and  tur- 
ban of  the  same  colour,  crossed  in  front  by  a  band  of  gold.  He 
is  the  Mahometan  Patriarch,  next  to  the  Sultan  in  the  religious 
scale,  exceedingly  powerful  and  greatly  reverenced.  When 
after  the  salutation  he  was  about  to  kiss  the  Sultan's  foot, 
Abdul-Mejid  broke  his  calm  imperturbability,  and,  raising  the 
Sheik  graciously,  prevented  the  actual  performance  of  the 
homage, 

"The  Ulemas  then  defiled  before  the  Sultan,  and  were  con- 
tent with  toucliing  their  lips  to  the  hem  of  his  surtout,  not  being 
sufficiently  important  to  aspire  to  the  greater  honour.  To  the 
Ulemas  lesser  officials  succeeded  who  could  kiss  neither  the 
foot  nor  tlie  robe ;  to  them  an  end  of  the  Sultan's  sash,  held 
by  a  pasha,  offered  its  fringe  of  gold  to  be  kissed,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  divan,  Tliey  came,  holding  one  hand  on  the 
forehead  and  the  other  on  the  heart,  bent  to  the  earth,  touched 
the  scarf  and  passed  on,  while  the  dwarf,  from  behind  the 
throne,  watched  the  whole  with  the  malicious  grimace  of  an 
evil-disposed  gnome.  During  all  this  time  the  band  played, 
the  cannon  thundered  in  the  distance,  and  the  pigeons,  fright- 
ened from  the  eaves  of  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Bayezid,  flew  in 
hurried  circles  above  the  gardens  of  the  Seraglio.  When  the 
last  functionary  had  paid  his  homage,  the  Sultan  retired  to  the 
kiosk,  amid  tumultuous  vivas ;  and  we  returned  to  Pera.  to  seek 
the  breakfast  of  which  by  this  time  we  stood  cruelly  in  need." 


SELIM   II,   TO  ABDUL   MEDJID.  147 

After  a  reign  of  twenty-two  years,  Abdul  Medjid  died 
in  his  bed,  June  25,  1861.  Under  his  rule  there  was 
greater  safety  both  for  life  and  property  than  before.  His 
subjects  loved  him,  not  so  much  for  what  he  accomplished 
as  for  his  benevolence.  He  was  so  averse  to  sheddimr 
blood  that  he  would  not  knowingly  decree  an  execution ; 
but  his  signature  to  death  warrants  was  sometimes  obtained 
by  subterfuge.  Perhaps  his  greatest  distinction  is  that 
he  committed  no  murders  when  he  became  Sultan,  and 
was  permitted  to  end  his  life  without  violence. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

SULTANS   ABDUL   AZIZ,    MURAD    V.,    AND    ABDUL   HAMID   IL 
1861-1895. 

ABDUL  AZIZ,  who  now  became  Sultan,  had  been 
most  liberally  and  kindly  treated  by  his  brother, 
Abdul  Medjid,  and  his  life  as  heir-apparent  had  been  in 
delightful  contrast  to  that  of  the  princes  of  former  reigns. 
He  had  enjoyed  perfect  freedom  and  a  liberal  income, 
while  Abdul  Medjid  had  been  genuinely  fond  of  his 
brother,  and  never  indulged  his  own  taste  in  objects  of 
value  without  offering  their  equivalent  to  the  prince. 

Abdul  Aziz  was  strong  physically,  and,  while  rather 
ordinary  in  appearance,  had  large,  impressive  eyes.  His 
beard  was  somewhat  gray  while  he  was  still  young,  and 
his  expression  was  frank,  with  a  certain  inexplicable 
shadow  at  times,  probably  arising  from  the  merak,  or  aber- 
ration of  mind,  to  which  he  was  subject.  He  was  prodi- 
gal, and  towards  the  end  of  his  life  became  sensual  and 
voluptuous,  even  beyond  the  habits  of  the  Turks.  He  also 
grew  violent  and  suspicious,  and  at  length  was  so  morose 
as  to  be  almost  insane.  He  suspected  everybody  of  evil 
designs,  and  at  times  would  eat  nothing  but  hard-boiled 
eggs,  lest  he  should  be  poisoned. 

He  constantly  built  palaces  —  all  ugly  in  the  extreme 
—  because  a  prophecy  had  been  made  that  he  would  die 
when  he  ceased  to  build.  It  might  better  have  said  that  he 
would  cease  to  build  when  he  died.  For  this  fad  and  other 
peculiar  fancies  he  required  large  sums  of  money,  and  these 
he  would  have.     He  went  into  such  fits  of  passion  as  are 


ABDUL   AZIZ.  149 

unimaginable  if  his  ministers  even  cautioned  him  against 
his  extravagance,  much  more  if  they  refused  him  money. 

He  imported  lions  and  tigers  from  Africa  and  India,  and 
parrots  without  limit.  These  beasts  and  birds  in  cages 
were  all  about  his  palace.  He  had  an  equal  number  of 
European  carriages  and  pianos ;  some  of  the  latter  were 
played  when  strapped  on  men's  backs.  One  wonders  at 
his  ingenuity  in  devising  wants  as  well  as  at  his  sliill  in 
gratifying  them. 

He  delighted  in  cock-fighting,  and  decorated  the  win- 
ning cocks,  while  he  condemned  the  others  to  perfectly 
dark  coops.  When  in  good  humour  he  often  joined  in  a 
wrestling-match  with  his  ministers  and  favourites.  He 
usually  contended  with  Nevrez  Pasha,  who  was  very  cor- 
pulent. Of  course  he  was  always  beaten,  and  fell  in  most 
ludicrous  attitudes ;  but  was  accustomed  to  say  that  each 
kick  of  the  Sultan's  foot  was  worth  to  him  a  decoration 
or  some  added  honour  in  his  rank. 

At  times  the  Sultan's  incipient  madness  took  the  form 
of  fear  of  fire.  He  would  then  have  nothing  near  him  that 
was  made  of  wood,  and  used  a  single  candle  set  in  a  pail  of 
water  as  his  light  at  night.  He  stripped  several  palaces 
of  all  inflammable  objects,  and  replaced  them  with  articles 
made  of  metals.  The  stores  of  fuel  were  thrown  into  the 
Bosphorus.  He  also  bought  the  houses  near  the  Seraglio, 
and  had  them  jiulled  down  as  quickly  as  possible.  Many 
of  the  beautiful  ol)jects  from  the  palace  were  secured  by 
the  wealthy;  but  the  poor  people  greatly  regretted  the 
destruction  of  much  that  had  l^een  wasted,  while  they 
were  in  dire  need  of  fuel  and  many  useful  articles.  This 
Sultan  was  largely  controlled  by  superstition,  and  com- 
mitted numerous  follies  under  its  influence.  On  one 
occasion  he  commanded  a  rare  and  magnificent  antique 
vase  to  be  thrown  into  the  Bosphorus,  because  he  thought 
that  it  had  been  handled  by  a  consumptive  person. 


150  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Wlicn  these  attacks  were  on  bin:,  no  one  could  influence 
him  except  his  mother,  who  was  devoid  of  sense  and 
judgment,  and  perceived  neither  tlie  faults  nor  the  dangers 
into  which  they  were  liable  to  i)lunge  him. 

Naturally  there  were  many  intrigues  in  his  court  and 
capital,  and  a  wise  man  could  see  at  an  early  period  of 
his  reign  that  the  time  would  come  when  his  whims  and 
his  extravagances  would  not  be  endured.  It  is  difficult 
for  the  Western  mind  to  fully  grasp  the  peculiar  position 
of  the  Ottoman  Sultan.  We  read  of  those  in  past  centu- 
ries very  much  as  we  read  of  Aladdin's  Lamp  or  the  Forty 
Thieves;  but  when  we  try  to  fit  such  an  anomaly  into 
the  life  of  the  nineteenth  century  it  seems  an  impossible 
conception. 

He  is  an  absolute  sovereign  and  a  spiritual  head  of  his 
people,  whose  authority  is  supposed  to  extend  even  to  a 
future  world ;  and  yet  he  fears  to  disregard  established 
customs  or  disobey  his  ministers,  guards,  and  courtiers, 
who  kiss  his  feet  at  Bairam,  and  make  a  constant  show  of 
humilit}',  while  they  plot  against  his  authority  and  his  life. 

Sole  master  of  hundreds  of  beautiful  women,  his  chil- 
dren are  born  of  slaves;  and  slaves  these  mothers  must 
remain,  no  matter  how  deep  an  affection  he  may  cherish 
for  them.  Moslems  at  a  distance  pray  for  him.  Those 
near  him  plot  against  him,  while  his  Christian  subjects 
fear,  despise,  and  ridicule  him.  Having  the  semblance  of 
superior  power,  he  is  in  fact  powerless  and  wretched,  for 
he  cannot  forget  that  many  of  his  ancestors  have  been 
murdered  while  on  the  throne. 

"  Placed  between  Europe  and  Asia,  he  belongs  to  neither. 
Adored  as  a  god  by  so  many  different  creeds  and  races,  he 
ends  by  being  deceived,  blinded,  watched,  and  tormented,  until 
a  life  of  perpetual  danger  among  his  nearest  relatives  too  often 
ends  by  voluntary  resignation  or  assassination."  ^ 

'  Frances  Elliot. 


ABDUT.  AZIZ.  151 

Let  us  now  in  justice  speak  of  the  youthful  virtues  of 
Abdul  Aziz,  and  of  the  good  services  which  he  rendered 
his  country;  for  happily  —  black  as  his  portrait  must  be 
painted  as  a  whole  —  he  was  not  entirely  bad  from  the 
beginning.  He  was  a  bigot,  and  when  he  was  in  retire- 
ment in  the  kiosk  of  Beicos,  he  was  well  spoken  of  by  all 
sorts  of  men.  At  that  time  too  he  had  but  one  wife;  and 
when  the  Yalideh  Sultana  presented  liim  with  a  beautiful 
slave  at  Bairam  according  to  custom,  he  gave  her  to  his 
wife  to  serve  in  the  harem. 

In  the  beginning  of  his  reign  he  was  energetic,  and 
inaugurated  Councils  of  State,  which  met  at  the  Scraskier 
Tower  at  midnight.  Its  illumination  assured  the  people 
that  the  Commander  of  the  Faithful  was  intent  upon  affairs 
in  which  they  were  concerned.  He  provided  free  schools 
for  Moslem  children  near  each  mosque;  and  even  the 
children  of  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Jews  were  instructed 
at  his  expense.  He  made  untiring  efforts  to  improve  the 
footing  of  his  army.  He  built  railroads,  and  purchased  a 
fine  fleet  of  ironclads.  All  these  improvements  doubtless 
inured  to  the  advantage  of  Turkey,  although  she  had  not 
the  money  to  pay  for  them.  Perhaps  the  shrewdness  of 
Aziz  and  his  ministers  in  effecting  so  much,  despite  their 
poverty,  may  be  esteemed  an  accomplishment. 

We  can  scarcely  forgive  Abdul  Aziz  for  his  innovation 
in  permitting  the  people  to  abandon  caftan  and  turban  to 
adoi)t  the  European  coat  and  the  simi)lc  fez.  We  have 
seen  that  Abdul  Mcdjid  and  his  chief  officers  wore  the 
frock  coat  and  fez  at  the  Bairam;  but  it  was  in  the  time 
of  his  successor  that  the  people  gradually  adopted  the  new 
costume  by  which  the  j)i('turcs(iucness  of  the  street  scenes 
and  out-of-door  life  of  Constantinople  has  been  lost. 

Naturally  the  women  followed  the  examide  of  the  men, 
and  changed  their  costume.  They  retained  the  thinnest  of 
white  veils,  which  are  intensely  becoming,  modifying  as 


152  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

they  do  the  artificial  means  for  beautifying  the  eyes  and 
complexion,  which,  seen  through  the  veils,  are  brilliant 
and  fascinating.  The  ferejeh  and  yashmak  which  were  so 
attractive  to  foreign  eyes  in  the  old  days,  were  replaced 
by  modern  cloaks.  These  innovations  extended  to  other 
matters  also.  Caiques  were  largely  replaced  by  carriages, 
and  my  later  visits  to  Constantinople  have  been  disturbed 
by  constant  regrets  at  the  loss  of  the  beautiful,  picturesque 
costumes  and  scenes  of  other  days,  —  when  ladies  were 
borne  in  sedan  chairs  inlaid  with  ivory  and  mother-of- 
pearl  ;  when  the  Bedouins  in  white  mantles,  Turks  in 
gaily  coloured  caftans  and  turbans,  Persians  with  pyramids 
of  astrakhan  fur  on  their  heads,  Tartars  dressed  in  sheep- 
skins, and  numerous  other  curiously  clad  men  were  seen 
in  contrast  to  Sisters  of  Charity  in  their  usual  dress, 
Greek  women  with  their  red  caps  and  the  hair  falling  on  the 
shoulders,  the  negress  wrapped  in  Oriental  shawls,  and 
the  Maltese  in  her  black  faldetta  ;  while  if  the  Turkish 
ladies  rode  they  had  no  coupes,  but  used  Turkish  carriages 
painted  with  birds  and  flowers,  which  were  each  preceded 
by  a  eunuch  on  horseback.  These  carriages,  having 
canopy  tops  open  at  the  sides,  disclosed  the  delicate  tints 
of  iheferejehs  in  exquisite  contrast  with  the  snowy  white- 
ness of  the  veils.  In  those  days  the  streets  of  Constanti- 
nople, and  especially  the  bridge,  afforded  a  wonderfully 
fascinating  panorama  to  Western  eyes;  and  on  Fridays 
the  Golden  Horn  was  gay  beyond  expression,  with  the 
caiques  full  of  ladies,  never  a  man  to  be  seen  in  the  same 
boats,  — save  the  rowers,  —  all  on  their  way  to  the  Sweet 
Waters  of  Europe  for  their  Sunday  afternoon  outing. 

The  innovations  of  the  Sultan  Aziz  doubtless  gave  a 
new  zest  to  life  in  Constantinople,  especially  to  the 
women,  by  affording  them  new  topics  for  conversation. 
The  Moslems  believe  that  women  have  no  souls ;  and  other 
people  fancy  that  Moslem  women  are  shut  away  in  harems, 


ABDUL   AZIZ.  153 

and  have  little  or  no  influence.  This  is  an  error.  They 
are  a  power  in  this  capital  socially,  politically,  and  in 
matters  religious.  Fortunately  for  the  party  known  as 
"Young  Turkey,"  it  had  the  approval  of  the  gentler  sex. 

The  Sultana  Valideh  disapproved  of  the  changes  going 
on  around  her,  but  she  was  almost  alone  in  her  views ;  and 
even  when  the  Sultan  decided  on  his  journey  to  England 
and  different  parts  of  Europe,  —  a  thing  that  no  previous 
Sultan  had  done,  —  taking  his  nephews  Murad  and  Hamid 
with  him,  his  mother  was  the  only  person  who  objected, 
and  to  pacify  her  he  promised  to  return  in  a  month. 

He  departed  amid  a  general  expression  of  enthusiastic 
approbation,  and  was  attended  as  far  as  the  Dardanelles 
by  the  most  distinguished  men  of  Constantinople. 

July  24,  1867,  was  a  red-letter  day  at  Constantinople. 
Abdul  Aziz  then  came  home  by  the  way  of  the  Danube, 
the  Black  Sea,  and  the  Bosphorus.  That  fascinating 
country  which  borders  these  straits  was  never  lovelier, 
and  in  the  clear  air  beneath  the  summer  sun  the  brilliant 
gardens,  the  deep  green  fields,  the  nestling  villages  with 
kiosks,  mosques,  and  minarets,  seemed  to  speak  a  welcome 
to  the  Sultan  which  was  emphasized  by  salvoes  of  cannon 
and  continual  shouts  of  "' Padishah  hin!  chock  Yasha!' 
the  '  evoc  '  of  the  Greeks,  the  '  evviva  '  of  the  Italians,  and 
the  *  hurrah  '  of  the  British  sailors."  For  as  the  royal 
yacht  passed  the  summer  residence  of  the  foreign  ambassa- 
dors, the  steam  yachts  belonging  to  them  joined  in  firing 
a  welcome;  and  the  "Sultanie"  stopped  to  permit  the 
Sultan  to  receive  the  Valideh  Sultana  and  her  attendants, 
who  had  come  out  to  meet  him. 

His  Gi-and  Vizier  and  other  officials  were  anxious  to 
learn  the  effect  made  on  the  mind  of  Aziz  by  all  that  he 
had  seen.  He  had  gone  away  full  of  approbation  for 
everything  European,  and  they  feared  that  he  would  retui-n 
with  a  determination  to  revolutionize  their  capital  by  tho 


154  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

introduction  of  still  other  Euroi)ean  customs.  But  his 
first  remark  relieved  their  anxieties,  when  he  declared 
that  he  thanked  Allah  that  he  was  not  so  blind  as  the 
Christian  sovereigns  whom  he  had  seen.  He  assured 
them  that  he  had  visited  no  city  that  could  be  compared 
with  Constantinople  in  natural  beauty,  though  he  was 
obliged  to  acknowledge  that  many  were  better  built. 

He  continued  to  enumerate  things  that  he  had  disap- 
proved until  his  hearers  were  quite  satisfied  that  he  was 
not  Europeanized,  and  added  that  the  restlessness  of  the 
life  he  had  witnessed  was  an  agony  to  him.  He  declared 
that  politics,  commerce,  arts,  and,  above  all,  money-mak- 
ing, so  engrossed  the  men  of  the  West  that  they  had  no 
time  to  consider  the  spiritual  side  of  life. 

He  expressed  his  intense  disgust  at  the  manners  of 
women  in  society,  at  the  shameless  way  in  which  they 
S"miled  on  men,  danced  with  them,  and  seemed  to  ignore 
the  presence  of  their  husbands.  When  he  spoke  of  the 
ugliness  of  these  ladies,  he  had  no  words  sufficiently  strong 
to  express  his  opinion,  and  ended  by  declaring  that  the 
empresses  of  France  and  Austria  were  the  only  beauties 
he  had  seen. 

The  Grand  Vizier  was  greatly  disappointed.  He  had 
hoped  to  hear  of  new  ideas,  reforms,  and  inventions  rather 
than  of  balls  and  the  manners  of  women.  Then  too  a 
revolution  in  Crete  was  pending,  and  the  Sultan  asked  no 
questions  concerning  State  affairs.  He  only  talked  on 
of  the  beauty  of  the  Empress  Eugenie,  and  swore  that 
he  would  find  a  more  beautiful  than  she  among  the 
Circassians. 

When  opposite  the  Palace  of  Dolmabatchke,  the  royal 
caique  shot  out  to  the  steamer.  How  beautiful  and  fairy- 
like it  was,  all  white,  bordered  with  rose  colour  and  gold, 
while  the  twelve  rowers  in  white  silk  costumes  daintily 
handled  their  gold-tipped  oars!     A  divan  in  the  stern. 


ABDUL  AZIZ.  155 

shaded  by  a  dome  of  crimson  velvet,  supported  by  small 
gilt  pillars,  afforded  a  luxurious  place  for  Abdul  Aziz; 
while  an  Arab,  in  a  splendid  costume  of  scarlet  and  gold, 
was  at  the  helm,  and  a  gilt  eagle  with  outspread  wings 
ornamented  the  poop.  Surely  all  he  had  seen  in  Europe 
had  not  exceeded  this  gala  boat  in  delicate  luxury  and 
beauty. 

But  to  what  an  ugly  palace  had  he  come,  —  a  tasteless, 
confused  mass  of  half  a  dozen  styles  of  architecture, 
impressive  only  by  its  size  and  the  beauty  of  its  position 
on  the  European  shore  of  the  Bosphorus.  How  the  Sultan 
was  at  once  surrounded  by  the  great  officials  of  the  empire, 
while  the  Sheik-ul-Islam  extended  his  hands  above  the 
returning  wanderer  in  benediction  ! 

Nine  years  elapsed  before  Abdul  Aziz  ceased  to  reign, 
—  years  wasted  in  a  luxurious  idleness  that  conferred  no 
benefits  upon  his  ever-declining  empire,  while  his  bound- 
less extravagance  plunged  it  dcejjer  and  deeper  in  debt 
until  its  credit  was  ruined. 

Meantime  Abdul  Aziz  dreamed  of  the  perfectly  beauti- 
ful woman  he  was  seeking,  and  collected  lovely  slaves  in 
great  numbers  from  all  possil)le  places.  At  length  it 
chanced  that  as  the  Sultan  was  walking  in  the  fields 
bordering  the  Bosphorus,  he  came  upon  two  slaves  of  his 
Sultana,  who,  safely  hidden,  as  they  thouglrt,  by  the  shade 
of  the  wood  and  the  twilight,  had  cast  aside  their  veils. 
One  of  these,  Mihri  Hanoum,  was  exquisitely  lovely, 
and  was  at  this  moment  avowing  to  her  companion  her 
hopeless  affection  for  the  Sultan, 

Abdul  Aziz  retired  to  a  kiosk  near  by,  and  soon  heard 
a  sweet  young  voice  singing  to  a  circle  of  Sultanas.  Sus- 
pecting and  hoping  that  the  singer  and  Ihe  lovely  girl  he 
had  seen  were  the  same,  he  sent  to  ask  that  she  would 
come  to  sing  to  him.  Filled  with  alarm  when  the  euiiucli 
led  her  away  from  her  fricmls,  Mibii  arrived  at  the  kiosk 


156  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

trembling  and  faint,  and  when  she  tried  to  sing  she  burst 
into  a  passion  of  tears.  But  the  Sultan  cast  on  her  a 
look  which  gave  her  courage,  and  she  sang  as  she  had 
never  sung  before.  She  was  rewarded  with  a  magnificent 
ring  from  the  finger  of  her  master ;  and  that  night,  when 
Mihri  was  missing  from  her  accustomed  place,  the  eunuch 
said,  "Fear  not,  the  khanoum  is  with  the  Sultan."  From 
this  day  Mihri  was  more  and  more  adored.  Vast  sums 
were  lavished  on  her.  A  palace  was  built  to  please  her 
at  an  enormous  expense ;  and  finally,  in  the  dark  hours  of 
this  Sultan's  last  years,  she  was  his  constant  comforter, 
until  at  last  she  unwittingly  gave  him  the  scissors  that 
served  to  sever  the  arteries  from  which  his  life  flowed 
out. 

It  was  a  proud  day  for  Abdul  Aziz  when  the  beautiful 
Eugenie  paid  him  a  visit.  Never  before  had  such  an 
honour  been  conferred  on  an  Eastern  ruler,  and  the  prepa- 
rations for  her  reception  were  magnificent  beyond  descrip- 
tion. The  Palace  of  Beylerbey  was  set  apart  for  her  use, 
and  her  apartments  there  were  an  exact  reproduction  of 
those  which  she  occupied  at  the  Tuileries. 

All  along  the  archipelago  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora  and 
up  the  Bosphorus  the  steamer  of  the  empress  was  attended 
by  a  squadron  of  steamers,  each  one  carrying  the  tricolour 
studded  with  imperial  bees.  Salvos  of  artillery  thundered 
and  rolled  away  among  the  hills.  Bands  of  music  played 
national  airs;  and  opposite  the  landing  to  Beylerbey, 
the  exquisite  caique  of  the  Sultan  w^as  rowed  alongside 
"L'Aigle,"  and  Abdul  Aziz,  in  the  dress  of  a  French 
marshal,  passed  to  the  deck,  where  the  empress,  in  a 
beautiful  costume,  all  white,  received  him  with  her 
inimitable  grace. 

He  conducted  her  to  his  caique  amid  the  enthusiasm  of 
the  people,  while  the  bands  played  "Partant  pour  la 
Syrie. "     Within  the  palace  all  the  foreign  ambassadors 


ABDUL  AZIZ.  157 

and  the  important  ofificials  of  Turkey  were  gathered  to 
welcome  the  empress,  who,  seated  on  the  throne,  received 
honours  never  before  paid  to  any  woman  by  an  Ottoman 
Sultan.  Visits  of  ceremony  were  then  in  order;  and 
those  to  the  Sultana  Valideh  and  to  the  "one  wife"  of 
the  earlier  days  of  the  Sultan  being  over,  he  was  free  to 
present  the  beautiful  Eugenie  to  the  lovely  Mihri,  who 
was  ever  more  and  more  beloved  by  Abdul  Aziz.  On  this 
occasion  Miliri  wore  emeralds  and  pearls  valued  at  more 
than  a  million  dollars;  and  the  French  empress  walked 
through  an  avenue  of  Mihri 's  slaves,  many  of  them 
glittering  with  rare  jewels. 

A  supper  was  prepared  with  all  possible  care,  and  one 
table  was  spread  according  to  French  customs,  while  a 
second  was  a  la  Turque.  The  empress  chose  the  latter, 
and  was  seated  beside  Mihri,  before  an  immense  plateau 
of  chiselled  silver  furnished  with  enamelled  plates  set 
with  gems. 

As  these  two  ladies  could  only  speak  through  an  inter- 
preter, the  singing  and  dancing  of  the  slaves  made  a 
fortunate  diversion ;  and  when  the  Sultan  at  length  arrived, 
he  was  more  than  gratified  at  finding  the  empress  and 
Mihri  on  such  excellent  terms,  and  soon  after  announced 
to  the  whole  assembly  that  his  imperial  guest  had  done 
him  the  honour  to  say  that  she  much  admired  the  Turkish 
ladies,  whose  eyes  were  more  brilliant  than  their  jewels. 
When  all  tlie  ceremonies  of  the  evening  were  over,  the 
Sultan  attended  the  empress  to  her  caique,  well  pleased 
to  find  that  Mihri 's  loveliness  was  not  dimmed  by  close 
contrast  with  the  exf[uisite  beauty  of  the  French  empress. 

Despicable  as  he  was,  Ave  can  but  pity  this  Sultan  when, 
for  four  years,  he  shut  himself  away  from  active  life,  and 
was  only  seen  l)y  his  sul^jccts  on  Fridays,  as  he  passed  to 
fhe  mosque  of  Abdul  Med j id,  close  to  the  Dolmabatchke 
Palace,    which   he  never  left  for  any  other  of  the  many 


158  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

palaces  which  were  at  his  command.  He  was  eaten  up 
with  suspicions  of  his  ministers,  of  the  party  of  Young 
Turkey,   and  of  all  who  approached  him. 

We  cannot  here  give  the  details  of  the  growing  discon- 
tent which  culminated  in  the  deposition  of  Abdul  Aziz, 
nor  of  the  cruel  circumstances  attending  it.  He  was 
taken  first  to  the  Old  Seraglio,  where  he  was  followed  by 
his  mother,  the  Sultana  Mihri,  and  the  harem.  This 
disused  palace  proved  so  uncomfortable  that  he  begged  to 
be  removed  to  the  Palace  of  Chcragan,  on  the  Bosphorus, 
and  again  he  demanded  to  be  taken  to  the  Palace  of 
Beylerbey,  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  both  of  which  requests 
were  quickly  and  cheerfully  granted;  but  no  change  of 
place  could  dispel  the  sadness  of  Abdul  Aziz,  and  to  this 
was  added  an  insomnia  that  could  not  be  overcome.  He 
ate  almost  nothing,  and  moved  about  continually.  Mihri 
never  left  him,  and  his  mother  was  much  with  him. 
When  he  entered  his  palace  prison,  he  had  written  on  the 
dust  upon  the  table  the  following  lines:  — 

"Man's  destiny  is  Allah's  will, 
Sceptres  and  power  are  His  alone ; 
My  fate  is  written  on  my  brow, 
Lowly  I  bend  before  His  Throne." 

On  the  first  Sunday  in  June,  1876,  he  expressed  a  wish 
to  be  left  alone  that  he  might  try  to  sleep.  The  "Sultann 
Mihri  consented  to  this  unwillingly ;  and  as  she  left  the 
room  the  Sultan  asked  her  to  send  him  a  hand  glass  and 
scissors,  that  he  might  trim  his  beard.  These  being  sent, 
he  locked  the  door  communicating  with  the  harem ;  and 
when,  some  time  after,  the  guard  —  who  was  in  the  room, 
but  so  placed  that  he  saw  the  back  of  the  Sultan  only  — ■ 
gave  the  alarm,  it  was  found  that  he  had  cut  the  arteries 
in  his  arms,  wrists,  and  feet,  and  was  already  dead. 

Various  theories  of  murder  have  been  advanced  by 
the  Turks,  but  there  are  strong  proofs   of  suicide.     Ten 


ABDUL   AZIZ.  159 

days  later  Mihri  also  died  in  giving  birth  to  a  second 
prince. 

Abdul  Aziz  is  buried  in  the  tomb  of  Mahmoud  IT.,  his 
renowned  father,  of  which  we  have  already  spoken;  the 
Sultana  IMihri  at  Yeni  Djami,  the  cemetery  of  Ayoob.  It 
was  a  long  way  from  Cheragan,  where  she  died,  but  a 
numerous  procession  attended  her  poor  body  to  its  last 
home.  Pashas,  beys,  eunuchs,  and  aghas  bore  the  inlaid 
coffin  by  turns.  Over  it  a  rich  shawl  was  thrown,  on 
which  were  laid  garlands  of  fresh  roses.  Mollahs  led  the 
procession,  reciting  verses  from  the  Koran, 

The  brother  of  Mihri,  Tchcrkess  Hassan,  who  had  been 
made  an  aide-de-camp  to  Abdul  Aziz  by  his  sister's  influ- 
ence, was  the  most  unusual  and  noticeable  figure  at  this 
funeral.  His  passionate  grief  attracted  general  attention. 
His  was  the  last  hand  that  rested  on  the  coffin  before  it 
was  lowered  into  the  grave,  and  he  seemed  there  to  be 
dedicating  himself  to  some  service  for  her  sake.  When 
the  earth  was  scattered  by  handfuls  on  the  coffin,  he  was 
so  overcome  by  his  emotions  that  he  supported  himself 
against  a  tree.  It  was  doubtless  at  this  time  that  he 
resolved  on  the  deeds  he  later  performed. 

In  a  country  like  Turkey  it  is  not  strange  that  the 
patience  of  the  ministers  of  Abdul  Aziz  was  exhausted, 
and  they  prepared  for  any  severity  that  might  be  neces- 
sary to  free  themselves  from  his  rule,  after  all  his  deafness 
to  their  advice,  and  his  blindness  to  what  was  occurring 
under  his  eyes.  He  refused  to  listen  to  any  caution,  pur- 
sued his  course  of  ruinous  extravagance,  dismissed  the 
ministers  who  displeased  him,  and  put  himself  under  the 
sole  care  of  Mahmoud,  liis  sister's  husband,  who  basely 
flattered  and  deceived  him.  Finally  he  shut  himself  away 
from  his  poo))le  for  four  years,  and  was  only  seen  as  he 
passed  from  tlic  Dolmabatchke  to  the  moscpic  of  Sultan 
Medjid  near  at  hand. 


160  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

It  seemed  to  be  time  for  a  conspiracy ;  and  when  one 
Friday  the  Sultan  did  not  appear  to  go  to  mosque,  the 
people  armed  themselves  and  went  to  the  palace,  de- 
manding to  speak  with  him.  Mihri's  brother  Hassan 
was  sent  to  ask  the  wishes  of  the  crowd.  They  replied 
that  they  required  the  dismissal  of  the  Grand  Vizier 
JMahmoud  and  of  the  Scherif-ul-Islam.  Abdul  Aziz 
granted  this  request  at  once,  and  promised  that  a  fir- 
man should  immediately  be  sent  to  the  Seraskier 
Tower.  The  people  gladly  departed,  shouting  praises 
of  the  Padishah. 

This  act  caused  great  dissatisfaction  in  the  harem, 
where  Mahmoud  was  a  favourite  with  the  Valideh  Sul- 
tana. A  council  of  new  ministers  was  summoned,  and 
they  found  the  Sultan  in  bad  humour.  He  was  greatly 
changed,  having  become  enormously  fat  and  heavy.  His 
good  looks  were  gone,  his  hair  and  beard  were  white, 
and  he  had  a  painfully  contemptuous  expression  on  his 
sallow  face. 

At  first  he  paid  no  attention  to  the  new  ministers, 
and  after  repeated  salutations,  they  stood  in  a  circle 
about  him  until  chairs  wei'e  brought,  and  they  sat  on 
the  edges  of  them  in  anxious  expectation  of  a  sign  from 
the  Sultan,  who  seemed  quite  lost  in  a  large  stuffed  arm- 
chair, and  constantly  twisted  the  amber  beads  of  a  prayer 
chaplet. 

At  length  he  asked  some  questions  concerning  the  army, 
the  finances,  and  other  matters,  and  ended  with  a  demand 
for  money.  When  told  of  the  suffering  of  the  wounded 
and  starving  soldiers,  and  the  need  of  devoting  every 
dollar  that  could  be  obtained  to  them,  he  replied  that 
these  were  miserable  pretexts ;  and  when  he  was  informed 
that  twenty  thousand  Mussulmans  were  preparing  for  a 
revolution  unless  their  demands  were  complied  with,  and 
the  friends  of  Mahmoud  Pasha  dismissed  from  office,  he 


MURAD  V.  161 

became  livid  with  rage,  and  declared  that  7iot  one  should 
be  removed,  and,  raising  his  voice,  he  repeated,  "Not  one, 
not  one;"  and  after  a  few  more  questions  and  answers,  he 
called  them  all  traitors,  and,  pointing  to  the  door,  com- 
manded them  to  leave. 

According  to  Ottoman  law,  when  a  Sultan  is  incapable 
of  ruling,  the  Sheik-ul-lslam  decides  what  is  to  be  done; 
and  being  now  appealed  to,  that  authority  decided  that  a 
Sultan  who  was  not  a  father  to  his  people  should  be 
dethroned.  We  know  the  rest,  and  what  was  the  fate  of 
Abdul  Aziz. 

The  choice  of  those  in  authority  fell  on  Murad  Effendi 
for  their  next  Padishah.  He  was  one  of  the  nephews 
of  the  Sultan,  who  had  accompanied  him  to  Europe,  and 
was  now  living  in  an  ugly  kiosk  above  Scutari,  shut  oft: 
from  all  outside  life,  and  even  forbidden  to  mention  poli- 
tics. On  the  afternoon  of  the  day  on  which  the  important 
decision  of  the  Sheik-ul-Islam  was  made,  a  tailor  asked 
to  be  admitted  to  show  some  samples  to  the  prince.  When 
he  entered  his  presence,  Murad  at  once  saw  that  the  man 
was  a  friend  in  disguise.  He  was  able,  however,  to  com- 
mand his  surprise ;  and  when  he  saw  that  there  was  a 
paper  concealed  among  the  samples,  he  stepped  to  the 
window  for  a  l)etter  light,  and  read  these  startling  words, 
"To-morrow  you  will  be  Sultan.  Signed  Mehemet  Ruchti, 
Grand  Vizier." 

The  young  prince  almost  fainted;  but  making  a  sign  to 
his  favourite  servnnt,  he  conti-ived  to  be  left  alone  witli 
his  tailor,  who  told  him  all  that  was  happening  in 
Constantinople. 

In  the  city  there  were  no  outward  signs  of  tlie  great 
tragedy  about  to  be  enacted.  Everything  aj)])enred  to  be 
quiet  and  trancpiil,  and  AIxlul  Aziz  was  meditating  on  the 
best  method  by  which  he  could  revenge  liimself  for  the 
insults  that  had  Ijeen  oll'ei'e<l   bim. 

U 


162  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

With  perfect  secrecy  the  great  ironclads  were  prepared 
to  sail,  and  the  Commander  of  the  Royal  Guard,  known 
to  be  devoted  to  the  Sultan,  was  ordered  by  the  Grand 
Vizier  to  embark  his  men  on  the  transports  and  sail 
under  sealed  orders,  to  be  opened  when  twenty  miles 
at  sea. 

In  the  Council  at  the  Seraskierate,  Midhat  Pasha  said, — 

"Prompt  measures  may  prevent  bloodshed.  We  must  be 
resolute  and  swift.  Listen,  the  muezziu  sounds  the  call  to 
evening  prayer.  Before  he  announces  the  break  of  day,  Abdul 
Aziz  must  cease  to  reign." 

While  the  Sultan  was  being  conveyed  to  his  prison, 
Murad  was  released  from  his  long  confinement,  and  con- 
veyed to  the  Seraskierate ;  and  in  the  rosy  dawn  of  May  30, 
1876,  a  hundred  cannon  announced  that  a  new  Sultan 
reigned  at  Constantinople.  Flags  waved  from  the  tower 
of  Galata  and  the  official  residences;  the  ships  in  the 
harbour  were  gaily  dressed;  carriages  with  ambassadors 
and  ladies  of  rank  were  passing  through  the  narrow 
streets,  and  men  on  horseback  were  everywhere,  while  the 
bridge  of  Galata  was  filled  with  a  mass  of  humanity. 

Later  in  the  day  the  streets  leading  from  the  Seraskierate 
to  Dolraabatchke  were  lined  with  soldiers,  and  the  cannon 
announced  that  the  new  Sultan  was  on  his  way  to  the 
palace.  In  the  State  carriage,  drawn  by  four  English 
horses,  Murad  sat  alone.  He  wore  a  dark  uniform  with 
the  order  of  the  Medjidi^  upon  his  breast.  He  had  lost 
the  apathetic  dejection  of  the  day  before,  and  with  an 
animated  expression  on  his  handsome  face,  this  young 
Sultan  of  thirty-six  years  bowed  to  right  and  left,  in 
acknowledgment  of  his  praises  which  were  being  shouted 
amid  the  din  of  the  discordant  Turkish  bands. 

As  Murad  reached  the  Dolmabatchke,  Hassan  the 
Circassian  respectfully  handed  him  a  letter.     Murad  knew 


MURAD  V.  163 

that  it  was  from  Abdul  Aziz,  and  mastered  his  emotion 
with  difficulty. 

The  events  of  forty-eight  hours  had  made  an  impression 
on  Murad  which  could  not  easily  be  thrown  off,  and  the 
deaths  of  his  uncle  and  the  Sultana  Mihri  soon  after 
threw  a  sadness  over  all  the  relatives  of  Abdul  Aziz,  no 
matter  what  their  opinion  of  him  had  been.  But  the 
effects  of  these  circumstances  would  soon  have  passed, 
and  the  young  Sultan's  mind  been  occupied  with  his 
important  duties,  had  not  other  terrible  tragedies  quickly 
succeeded  them. 

The  well-known  devotion  of  Hassan  to  Abdul  Aziz,  and 
the  vast  difference  which  his  fall  and  death  made  to  the 
Circassian,  aroused  a  fear  of  him  in  the  minds  of  the 
Minister  of  War  and  other  officials.  Hassan  was  offered 
an  honourable  position  at  Bagdad,  which  he  refused  to 
accept.  This  so  strengthened  the  suspicions  of  his  loyalty 
that  he  was  arrested,  but  was  soon  released  on  parole,  and 
was  about  to  leave  Constantinople. 

His  first  act  was  to  visit  the  country-house  of  the  Min- 
ister of  War;  and  finding  that  his  Excellency  was  attend« 
ing  a  council  at  the  house  of  Midhat  Pasha,  Hassan  also 
went  there.  Eight  ministers  were  assembled  on  the  first 
floor,  while  their  officers  and  servants  were  below,  drink- 
ing coffee  and  smoking  cigarettes. 

Hassan  entered  and  sat  down  with  the  rest,  saying  that 
he  wished  to  see  one  of  the  councillors.  After  a  time  he 
stole  upstairs  and  found  an  Agha  whom  he  knew,  on  duty ; 
and  shortly  after,  this  guard  having  descended  the  stairs 
on  an  errand,  Hassan  pulled  the  curtain  aside  and  looked 
in  upon  the  ministers.  In  a  moment  he  rushed  in  and 
sliot  the  Minister  of  War  with  his  pistol ;  but  seeing  that 
he  had  not  killed  him,  the  Circassian  attacked  him  as  he 
lay  on  the  floor.  Having  satisfied  himself  that  tliis  enemy 
was  dead,  Hassan  raged  like  a  wild  beast,  and,  after  kill- 


164  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

ing  other  ministers,  two  aids,  and  a  police-officer,  he  was 
overpowered,  and  was  hanged  next  day  to  a  tree  in  the 
square  before  the  Seraskieratc. 

These  horrors  so  affected  the  mind  of  the  Sultan  Murad 
that  he  lost  his  reason,  and  it  was  soon  apparent  that  he 
must  be  retired.  A  difficulty  arose  when  his  brother, 
Abdul  Hamid,  objected  to  being  made  Sultan.  At  length, 
however,  when  he  was  convinced  of  the  hopeless  insanity 
of  Murad,  he  consented  to  take  his  place,  and  on  August 
31  the  cannon  again  announced  the  installation  of  a  new 
Sultan. 

On  the  next  day,  Friday,  Abdul  Hamid  rode  in  state 
from  Dolmabatchke  to  S.  Sophia,  and  after  the  service  in 
the  mosque  he  proceeded  to  the  sanctuary  of  the  old 
Seraglio,  and  there,  where  the  mantle  of  the  Prophet  is 
deposited,  he  was  acknowledged  as  Sultan  by  the  Sheik- 
ul-Islam  and  the  ministers.  Seated  on  the  Golden  Throne, 
surrounded  by  the  highest  officials  of  the  capital,  he 
listened  to  the  chant  of  proclamation. 

On  that  day  too  the  insane  Murad  was  removed  to 
Cheragan,  where  it  is  said  that  he  remained  as  recently  as 
1893 ;  but  no  one  seems  to  be  absolutely  sure  of  this.  All 
has  been  mystery  concerning  him;  and  if  he  has  died,  the 
place  of  his  burial  is  not  known. 

Curiously  enough,  the  kiosk  in  which  Abdul  Hamid 
chooses  to  dwell,  at  Yildiz,  is  very  near  the  palace  where 
Murad  is  enclosed,  if  he  still  lives.  Yildiz  is  three  miles 
from  the  city,  on  the  Bosphorus ;  and  as  the  Sultan  goes  to 
the  mosque  near  the  palazzefto,  there  is  no  longer  a  spec- 
tacle of  the  Selamlik  in  Constantinople.  It  can,  however, 
l)e  seen  by  applying  for  an  order  at  one  of  the  embassies; 
and  visitors  are  well  accommodated  in  a  building  devoted 
to  the  comfort  of  guests,  from  the  windows  of  which  a 
full  view  is  had  of  the  procession  which  attends  the  Sultan 
both    when    entering   and    leaving  the   mosque.     Abdul 


ABDUL  HAMID   II.  165 

Hamid  has  thus  abandoned  S.  Sophia  and  all  the  other 
principal  mosques  of  Constantinople. 

The  small  house  at  Yildiz,  where  Hamid  is  content  to 
live,  was  formerly  but  a  retreat  for  a  summer  afternoon. 
Hamid,  however,  does  not  require  a  large  harem.  Each 
year  he  receives  the  customary  tribute  of  beautiful  slaves, 
and  leaves  them  to  the  care  of  his  mother  to  be  educated 
and  married. 

The  park  surrounding  Yildiz  is  very  fine,  and  the  views 
over  the  Bosphorus  to  the  hills  of  Asia  are  extensive  and 
lovely.  Here  the  Commander  of  the  Faithful  received 
the  German  emperor,  taking  the  position  of  the  Prophet, 
and  demanding  that  the  Mountain  should  come  to  him 
with  more  success  than  attended  the  elTorts  of  Mohammed 
himself.  He  met  the  emperor  and  empress  at  the  landing- 
place,  and  led  them  up  the  hill  to  the.  house  that  was 
set  apart  for  them.  He  did  not  accompany  his  imperial 
guests  to  any  spot  outside  of  Yildiz.  He  supplied  them 
with  every  luxurious  means  of  making  their  excursions, 
but  did  not  deviate  from  the  daily  routine  of  his  life. 

Abdul  Hamid  habitually  eats  alone,  his  table  being 
placed  before  a  window,  from  which  he  has  an  extensive 
view  of  land  and  water.  His  food  is  principally  vege- 
tables, which  arc  brought  to  him  in  silver  saucepans  and 
presented  to  him  sealed.  He  drinks  water  which  is 
carried  to  Yildiz  in  casks,  and  transported  with  great 
caution,  that  nothing  may  be  dropped  into  it.  Wlien  it  is 
incumbent  on  him  to  entertain  distinguished  visitors  at 
his  table,  Abdul  Hamid  receives  royal  guests  or  ambassa- 
dors and  their  wives  with  a  most  distinguished  bearing 
and  true  courtesy.  He  bestows  sjjlondid  gifts  of  gems 
and  pearls  on  European  ladies,  and  keeps  a  quantity  in 
store  for  this  purpose. 

One  reform  under  the  reign  of  Abdul  Hamid  has 
afforded  much  happiness  to  his  female  relatives,  as  ho 


166  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

murders  no  possible  heirs  to  his  throne,  and  his  nephews 
live  in  security. 

He  rises  early  and  works  hard  all  day,  and  not  infre- 
quently far  into  the  night.  He  drives  or  rows  for  a  while 
in  the  afternoon,  and  later  receives  ambassadors  or  presides 
at  councils.  He  wishes  to  see  ever3'thing  with  his  own 
eyes,  and  is  too  essentially  a  Turk  to  be  progressive.  He 
has  no  sympathy  with  "Young  Turkey,"  and  is  determined 
to  be  the  master  of  his  empire.  But  all  this  does  not 
make  him  well  nor  happy.  He  is  the  palest,  thinnest, 
saddest  looking  little  man  that  one  can  conceive  of,  and 
it  is  not  strange  that  he  is  more  fond  of  his  physician 
than  of  others,   for  he  must  have  great  need  of  him. 

We  perceive  that  nothing  of  importance  can  occur  in 
the  Ottoman  Empire  without  the  knowledge  of  Sultan 
Abdul  Hamid  II.  What  are  we  then  to  think  of  him 
when  by  general  consent  it  is  admitted  that  his  govern- 
ment is  of  the  very  worst  ?  Even  the  glimmers  of  light 
that  had  dawned  upon  Ottoman  darkness  before  his  acces- 
sion have  been  extinguished.  Fortunately  during  his 
reign  his  territory  has  been  much  lessened,  and  some  of  the 
countries  which  have  been  emancipated  from  Turkish  rule 
are  now  far  in  advance  of  the  "  Sick  Man  "  they  have  left 
in  all  that  is  conveyed  by  the  expression  "  Christian 
civilization."  The  Turkish  territory  in  Europe  formerly 
comprised  two  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  square  miles, 
with  a  population  of  nearly  twenty  millions.  It  is  now 
but  sixty-six  thousand  miles,  with  a  population  of  but  four 
and  a  half  millions. 

The  reign  of  Abdul  Hamid  II.  has  been  especially  pro- 
lific of  persecutions  of  the  Armenians.  This  nation  seems 
to  have  been  doomed  to  suffer  at  the  hands  of  its  con- 
querors; and  such  has  been  its  terrible  experience  that 
the  wonder  is  that  anything  which  merits  the  name  of  an 
Armenian  nation  still  exists. 


ABDUL  HAMID  II.  167 

But  what  can  be  said  of  a  sovereign  under  whose  rule  it 
is  possible  for  such  massacres  to  occur  at  the  close  of  the 
nineteenth  century  as  those  reported  from  Bilsit  in  the 
year  of  grace  1894  ?  —  a  ruler  who  orders  so  terrible  a 
vengeance  upon  a  simple  people,  whose  crime  has  been 
that  in  protecting  their  flocks  they  had  killed  a  few 
Kurds  who  had  already  robbed  them,  —  a  vengeance 
which  sacrifices  ten  thousand  lives,  which  not  only  per- 
mits a  wholesale  massacre,  but  also  the  many  fiendish 
atrocities  which  are  sure  to  occur  when  armies  are 
allowed  to  pillage  and  destroy;  a  vengeance  which  burns 
whole  villages  and  leaves  their  places  utterly  desolate;  a 
vengeance  which  cannot  be  spoken  of  in  detail  by  reason 
of  its  cruel  and  unspeakable  sins  ?  Surely  nothing  can  be 
more  true  than  the  summing  up  of  Freeman's  splendid 
history  of  the  Ottoman  Power:  — 

"  The  Turk  came  into  Europe  as  a  stranger  and  an  oppressor, 
and  after  five  hundred  years  he  is  a  stranger  and  oppressor 
still.  He  has  hindered  the  progress  of  every  land  where  he  has 
sot  his  foot.  He  has  l)rouglit  down  independent  nations  to 
bondage  ;  by  bringing  them  down  to  bondage  he  has  taught 
them  the  vices  of  bondsmen.  He  has  turned  fertile  lands  into 
a  wilderness,  he  has  turned  fenced  cities  into  ruinous  heaps, 
l)ecause  under  his  rule  no  man  can  dwell  in  safety.  Wherever 
his  nde  has  spread,  the  inhabitants  have  dwindled  away,  and 
the  land  has  day  hy  day  gone  out  of  cultivation.  While  other 
conquerors,  even  other  Mahometan  conquerors,  have  done  some- 
tiiing  for  the  lands  they  conquered,  the  Ottoman  Turk  has  done 
nothing  for  the  lands  which  he  has  conquered  ;  he  has  done 
everything  against  them.  His  doniinion  is  perhaps  the  only 
case  in  history  of  a  lasting  and  settled  dominion,  as  distin- 
guished from  mere  passing  inroads,  which  has  been  purely  evil, 
without  any  one  redeeming  feature.  The  Saracen  in  South- 
western Europe  has  left  behind  hiin  the  memorials  of  a  culti- 
vation different  from  that  of  Europe,  but  still  a  real  cultivation, 


168  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

which  for  a  while  surpassed  the  cultivatiou  of  most  European 
nations  at  the  same  time.  But  the  Turk  in  Southeastern 
Europe  can  show  no  memorials  of  cultivation  ;  he  can  show 
only  memorials  of  destruction,  llis  history  for  the  five  hun- 
dred years  during  which  he  has  been  encamped  on  European 
soil  is  best  summed  up  in  the  proverbial  saying,  "  Where  the 
(Sultan's  horse-hoof  treads,  grass  never  grows  again." 


3^ai:t  €l)irti. 


THE   CONSTANTINOPLE   OF   TO-DAY. 

Here,  at  my  window,  I  at  once  survey 
The  crowded  city  and  resounding  sea ; 
In  distant  views  the  Asian  mountains  rise, 
And  lose  their  snowy  summits  in  the  skies; 
Above  these  mountains  proud  Olympus  towers, 
The  parliamental  seat  of  heavenly  powers ! 
New  to  the  sight,  my  ravished  eyes  admire 
Each  gilded  crescent  and  each  antique  spire, 
The  marble  mosques,  beneath  whose  ample  domes 
Fierce,  warlike  sultans  sleep  in  peaceful  tombs; 
Those  lofty  structures,  once  the  Christians'  boast. 
Their  names,  their  beauty,  and  their  honours  lost ; 
Those  altars  bright,  with  gold  and  sculpture  graced, 
By  barbarous  zeal  of  savage  foes  defaced ; 
Sophia  alone  her  ancient  name  retains, 
Though  the  unbeliever  now  her  shrine  profanes; 
Where  holy  saints  have  died  in  sacred  cells, 
Where  monarchs  prayed,  the  frantic  dervish  dwells. 
How  art  thou  fallen,  imperial  city,  low ! 
Where  are  thy  hopes  of  Roman  glory  now  ? 

Lady  Maky  Wortley  Montagit. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE    CASTLE    OF    THE    SEVEN    TOWERS  —  THE    OLD    SERAGLIO 
AND   OTHER   PALACES. 

WHEN  a  traveller  essays  to  speak  of  the  Constanti- 
nople of  to-day,  he  is  confronted  with  the  puzzling 
questions,  What  am  I  to  say  ?  Where  shall  I  begin  ? 
There  are  few  cities  that  afford  so  great  a  variety  of 
things  to  be  done  and  sights  to  be  seen,  and  so  many 
ways  of  doing  them. 

You  may  reach  the  Asiatic  shore  in  a  caique,  or  in  one 
of  the  innumerable  small  steamers  that  cross  and  recross 
the  Bosphorus.  You  may  ride  on  the  European  side  upon 
a  horse  or  donkey,  or  in  any  one  of  a  variety  of  carriages. 
If  you  walk,  the  curious  street  scenes  will  quite  absorb 
your  attention,  and  suggest  thoughts  which  are  entirely 
new;  and  if  you  have  intended  to  visit  some  particular 
spot,  you  will  probably  not  reach  it,  but  will  l)e  turned 
away  from  the  object  you  supposed  you  had,  and  will 
devote  yourself  eagerly  to  something  of  which  you  had 
not  thought,   perhaps  had  not  heard  before. 

And,  curiously  enough,  you  will  not  regret  al)andoning 
your  well-made  plan;  in  fact,  you  will  think  it  bettor 
to  have  no  plan.  It  will  require  but  little  time  for  the 
Oriental  lethargy  to  pervade  your  being,  and  convince  you 
that  nothing  matters;  that  the  thing  not  done  is  quite  as 
good  as  the  thing  well  done;  that,  in  shoi't,  you  have  been 
mistaken  hitherto  when  you  believed,  and  acted  on  your 
belief,  that  what  you  did  or  did  not  do  was  of  any  con- 
sequence.     And    haviuL''    thus    tlifo\vii    off  your    Western 


172  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

unrest  and  your  weighty  sense  of  responsibility,  you  will 
be  prepared  to  enjoy  Constantinople. 

Your  eyes  will  constantly  rest  upon  a  variety  of  human 
beings  that  will  interest  you;  but  you  will  not  clearly 
know  why,  and  you  will  be  strangely  indifferent  to  all 
alike.  Neither  the  Arab,  Jew,  Turk,  Negro,  nor  Greek 
will  appeal  to  you  on  account  of  race;  but  you  will  have 
an  opinion  of  each  one  of  them  according  to  the  pictur- 
esqueness  of  his  appearance,  —  an  opinion  that  will 
be  favourable  or  not  in  an  exact  ratio  to  the  degree  in 
which  he  pleases  your  eye.  And  this  position  is  entirely 
defensible.  Why  should  a  Christian  visit  this  city  of  the 
Turks,  with  its  many  objectionable  features,  except  to 
be  amused  and  to  see  things  that  are  novel  ?  If  there 
were  not  this  element  of  the  unknown  and  unexpected  in 
travel,  why  should  we  not  stay  in  Boston  or  London  or 
Paris,  where  we  are  far  more  comfortable  ? 

In  speaking  of  the  life  of  Constantinople,  I  involuntarily 
include  Scutari  and  the  life  of  the  Asiatic  shore  with  that 
of  the  cities  on  the  European  side  of  the  Bosphorus.  The 
three  —  Stamboul,  Pera,  and  Scutari — are  essentially 
one.  If  you  wish  to  witness  the  great  spectacle  of  the 
departure  of  the  pilgi'image  to  Mecca,  you  go  to  Scutari. 
If  you  visit  the  ancient  Broussa,  you  take  the  train  at 
Scutari ;  and  here  is  a  wonderful  City  of  the  Dead,  where 
hundreds  of  the  living  may  be  seen  each  day  enjoying  a 
holiday  or  picnic  party. 

You  see  so  few  women,  —  except  those  of  the  lowest 
classes,  —  and  those  you  do  see  are  so  curiously  habited, 
in  order  that  they  may  not  be  seen,  that  they  seem  to  be 
surrounded  by  an  atmosphere  of  impenetrable  mystery ; 
and  this,  together  with  other  inexplicable  phenomena 
which  you  observe,  induces  a  strange  sensation  of  not 
being  quite  the  same  person  that  you  brought  with  you 
from  the  more  comprehensible  West.     You  feel  that  you 


THE  CASTLE   OF  THE   SEVEN   TOWERS.  173 

are  seeing  '•  as  through  a  glass  darkly  "  in  an  unusual 
sense,  or  as  if  all  that  you  observe  were  an  interminable 
series  of  conundrums  which  you  have  no  hope  of  guessing. 
De  Araicis  well  expresses  the  effect  of  Constantinople 
when  he  says  :  — ■ 

"  Oue  impression  effaces  another,  wishes  crowd  upon  you, 
thee  hurries  by :  you  would  like  to  stay  there  all  your  Ufe ; 
you  would  like  to  get  away  to-morrow.  But  when  the  attempt 
is  to  be  made  to  describe  this  chaos  !  —  then  comes  the  tempta- 
tion to  make  one  bundle  of  all  the  books  and  papers  on  your 
table,  and  throw  the  whole  out  of  the  window." 

But  a  beginning  must  be  made  somewhere;  and  as  I 
have  already  spoken  of  approaching  Constantinople  by 
the  sea,  it  will  be  well  to  say  that  one  may  also  take  the 
wonderfully  fme  Orient  express  from  Paris  or  Vienna, 
and  be  set  down  at  the  Castle  of  the  Seven  Towers,  now 
a  railway-station.  Let  us  hope  that  the  noise  and  dirt 
and  smoke  of  this  modern  innovation  have  released  the 
"  earth-bound  spirits "  of  murdered  sultans  and  other 
wretches,  who  otherwise  should  be  here.  Shades  of 
Constantine,  Theodosius,  and  Mohammed  II!  brave  as 
you  may  have  been,  you  must  have  beat  a  retreat  before 
this  sacrilege,  which  has  broken  through  the  walls  of 
ancient  Byzantium,  and  desecrates  the  surroundings  of 
your  Golden  Gate. 

On  each  side  of  the  track  the  remnants  of  past  glory 
are  scattered,  —  blocks  of  marble,  l)its  of  porphyry,  half- 
buried  arches,  in  all  too  close  proximity  to  piles  of  coke 
and  the  ddbris  that  attends  a  carelessly  kept  railway- 
terminus.  Wliy  must  this  track  have  ended  just  here, 
where  it  has  destroyed  so  large  a  part  of  the  little  that 
remained  of  ancient  Byzantium  ?  And  this,  we  blush  to 
own,  was  not  the  work  of  Moslems,  but  of  Cliristians, 
whose  only  idea  was  to  cut  a  bee-line  for  their  railway. 


174  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Of  the  seven  towers  but  four  remain,  and  these  are 
in  a  desperately  feeble  state.  Built  by  Constantino 
the  Great,  strengthened  by  Theodosius,  and  again  by 
Mohammed  II.,  these  towers  are  associated  with  the 
greatest  rulers  of  Constantinople.  Their  liistory  is  as 
black  as  their  stones,  and  one  almost  shudders  at  their 
mention.  In  the  Seven  Towers  the  Turks  were  accus- 
tomed to  imprison  foreign  ambassadors  when  about  to 
declare  war  against  the  countries  they  represented.  Some 
Venetian  ambassadors  were  imprisoned  here  as  late  as 
1714,  when  the  war  in  the  Morea  broke  out.  This  was  in 
the  days  when  the  Turk  not  only  regarded  Christians  as 
dogs,  but  dared  to  express  his  opinion  in  word  and  deed. 
Now  all  that  is  changed.  Doubtless  they  despise  us  even 
more  than  then;  but  they  observe  a  certain  reticence 
which  is  safer  for  them  and  more  becoming. 

The  murders  and  cruelties  perpetrated  here  have  given 
the  name  of  the  Seven  Towers,  Jedi-Kul^,  a  sinister 
sound,  even  to  the  Turks  themselves.  The  entrance  is 
through  a  small  square  tower.  The  guard  is  usually 
asleep;  but  if  a  coin  is  slipped  into  his  hand,  he  is  not 
likely  to  awake  until  the  visitor  has  passed  within. 
Around  the  enclosure  thus  entered  are  black,  heavy 
walls,  on  which  are  square  and  round  towers  of  various 
heights ;  and  many  staircases  which  led  to  them  are  now 
in   ruins. 

Here  is  a  small  mosque,  surrounded  by  rank  vegetation 
and  a  few  trees.  Everything  is  abandoned  and  falling  to 
pieces.  On  some  of  the  stones  of  the  walls  the  monogram 
of  Constantino,  Greek  crosses,  and  inscriptions  may  be 
traced.  Sometimes  a  whole  Greek  sentence  can  be  found 
as  it  was  cut  by  the  soldiers  who  guarded  this  fortress 
before  the  fall  of  Constantinople. 

One  of  the  remaining  towers  has  so  many  bloody  tradi- 
tions connected  with  it  that  one  almost  fears  to  mention 


THE  CASTLE  OF   THE   SEVEN    TOWERS.  175 

it.  Here  were  the  frightful  dungeon  prisons  and  the 
torture-chambers.  In  a  large  round  apartment  the  secret 
decapitations  took  place,  and  the  heads  were  thrown  into 
the  "Bloody  Well."  Beneath  was  the  rocky  cavern,  in 
which  the  most  horrible  tortures  were  inflicted  by  the 
ghastly  light  of  a  single  lantern  hung  in  the  roof.  A  few 
years  since  a  mass  of  human  bones,  piled  nearly  as  high 
as  the  castle  platform,  could  be  seen  in  this  inner  court, 
near  which,  in  a  smaller  enclosure,  the  decaj)itations  took 
place  at  night. 

During  the  period  which  may  be  called  the  Reign  of  the 
Janissaries,  the  Seven  Towers  was  their  castle  and  prison. 
Seven  sultans  deposed  by  them  were  brought  here,  and 
not  one  of  them  left  this  worst  of  dungeons  alive.  It  was 
the  custom  of  these  soldiers  to  suspend  the  heads  of  illus- 
trious victims  from  the  walls,  and  at  times  a  goodly 
number  were  seen  there.  At  other,  times  these  heads 
were  sent  to  distant  provinces,  —  as  Mohammed  II.  sent 
that  of  Constantine,  —  thus  announcing  the  death  of  an 
important  official ! 

In  spite  of  all  the  horrors  that  have  been  enacted  here, 
this  prison  does  not  arouse  the  same  sentiments  as  do  the 
Bastile  and  the  Tower  of  London,  when  we  remember 
t)ie  long  procession  of  noble  men  and  women  who  passed 
their  portals  but  to  die.  In  fact,  when  we  remcniljcr 
that  Othman  11.  amused  himself  by  making  targets  of 
his  pages  to  increase  his  skill  as  a  marksman,  we  cannot 
deeply  regret  that  he  was  tortured  in  the  Hippodrome,  and 
assassinated  at  the  Seven  Towers.  It  must  have  seemed 
like  a  poetic  and  even  an  artistic  justice  to  those  who  had 
suffered  untold  cruelties  at  his  hand. 

It  is  cui-ious  how  the  separation  of  the  sexes  by  the 
Mohammedans  is  unconsciously  associated  with  every 
department  of  their  history.  For  example,  the  name  of 
the   Seven   Towers   calls  up   the   thought  of  horrors  eon- 


17G  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

nected  with  men,  and  the  Seraglio  —  while  we  know 
that  many  masculine  tragedies  have  occurred  here  —  is, 
in  our  minds,   essentially  associated  with  women. 

Seen  from  the  outside,  either  from  the  water  or  the 
land,  the  Old  Seraglio  appears  to  be  a  thick  grove  of  lofty, 
black  cypresses,  from  which  rise  minarets  and  domes  and 
curiously  shaped  roofs,  all  glistening  white.  It  is  the 
prominent  feature  of  Stamboul,  the  first  and  the  last  to 
rivet  the  gaze  and  the  thought  of  the  visitor  to  this 
wonderful  city  of  the  Golden  Horn. 

Within  the  walls  of  this  deserted  palace  one  linds  such 
desolation  as  is  completely  disenchanting.  The  gardens 
are  narrowed  by  the  Orient  Railway  which  pierces  their 
walls ;  and  along  the  border  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora  the 
sheds  of  shipbuilders  replace  the  lovely  kiosks  which  were 
once  dotted  here  and  there,  hidden  in  the  shade  of  luxu- 
riant trees,  draped  with  the  delicately '^scented  honey- 
suckle, and  surrounded  by  thousands  of  ever-blooming 
roses. 

As  I  to-day  re-read  the  description  of  the  Old  Seraglio 
in  the  poetic  words  of  Do  Amicis,  which  vividly  recall 
what  I  saw  here  long  decades  ago,  I  turn  with  deep  regret 
to  what  is  left  for  me  to  describe  or  for  the  traveller  to 
see;  and  yet  much  of  interest  still  exists  in  the  associa- 
tions with  these  deserted  halls,  where  every  passion  of 
the  human  heart  —  ambition,  love,  hatred,  revenge,  and 
tender  pity  —  has  existed,  and  manifested  itself  in  the 
superlative  degree. 

Here  it  was  but  too  true  that  in  the  midst  of  life  death 
revelled  in  its  power.  Here  the  mother  of  royal  kin 
breathlessly  watched  the  baby  that  she  knew  she  had  not 
the  power  to  keep,  till  in  some  inattentive  moment  he 
was  snatched  away  and  murdered,  lest  he  should  some  day 
aspire  to  be  the  ruler  of  Isl.nm;  and  the  broken-hearted 
mother  had  but  the  poor  consolation  of  laying  her  baby 


THE  OLD  SERAGLIO  AND  OTHER  PALACES.  177 

away  at  Ayoob,  vainly  wondering  why  she  should  bear 
sons  only  to  see  them  murdered  and  to  bury  them.  In 
this  Seraglio  the  lovely  maiden  of  Negropont  preferred  to 
suffer  death  rather  than  be  the  love  of  Mohammed  11. , 
and  here  have  laughed  and  danced  a  few  brief  hours 
thousands  of  warm,  palpitating  houris,  only  to  be  bow- 
strung  by  the  hideous  mutes,  tied  in  sacks,  and  shot 
through  the  golden-lined  ( ! )  funnel  that  ended  in  the  sea. 

Here  too,  ages  ago,  the  Greek  empresses  dwelt,  —  for 
on  this  site  was  the  Palatium  Sacrum,  the  palace  of 
Placidia,  and  that  of  Mangana,  —  and  wielded  the  vast 
power  of  the  Byzantine  throne  with  a  cruel  tyranny  that 
few  sultans  have  surpassed.  And  even  under  the  Moslem 
rule,  in  spite  of  the  treachery  and  danger  by  which  they 
were  surrounded,  Kourrem  and  Safije,  Mahpeike  and 
Sekuzula,  Retimo  and  Kadjie,  and  many  others  in  greater 
or  less  degree,  have  ruled  the  sultans  and  the  empire. 

Their  lives  were  full  of  intrigue.  By  means  of  the 
eunuchs,  they  conspired  with  ambitious  Moslems  and 
foreign  ambassadors  whom  they  had  never  seen,  to  Ijetray 
the  Sultan  who  had  cast  them  off  for  the  sake  of  younger 
and  more  recent  favourites,  or  in  the  hope  of  gaining 
honours  for  a  son  or  brother  that  they  could  not  otherwise 
command.  Doubtless  life  was  tame  enough  to  the  greater 
number  of  those  who  lived  in  the  harem  of  this  old  palace; 
but  there  were  always  some  among  them  whose  days  and 
nights  were  all  too  l)rief  in  whicli  to  invent  and  execute 
the  schemes  suggested  by  their  ruling  passion,  —  let  it  be 
love,  ambition,  or  revenge,  or  that  avarice  by  which  the 
favourite  of  Ahmed  II.  accumulated  greater  treasures  tlian 
the  Sultan's  treasury  contained.  Tliis  life  no  longer 
exists;  and  even  the  Ottoman  Padishah  must,  like  other 
rulers,  pay  outwai'd  deference,  at  least,  to  the  great, 
impersonal  monarch,   public  oi)iiiioii. 

The  word  Hcraylio  is  often  misiindei-.stood    and    misap- 

12 


178  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

plied.  Its  real  meaning  is  the  outer  portion  of  any 
Mohammedan  dwelling,  whether  large  or  small,  —  the 
quarters  of  the  men,  —  and  has  the  same  significance 
as  selamUJc,  in  contradistinction  to  haremlik,  or  women's 
apartments. 

It  is  almost  impossible  when  thousands  of  miles  away 
to  forget  what  this  palace  once  was,  and  speak  only  of 
what  it  now  is.  But  some  of  the  exterior  effects  of  the 
old  days  remain;  for  although  neglected,  one  still  sees  a 
vast  collection  of  edifices,  quite  irregular  in  form,  and 
evidently  intended  for  widely  differing  purposes.  A 
pavilion,  open,  light,  and  airy,  stood  beside  a  high-walled 
building  with  latticed  windows;  not  so  somhre  within 
as  without,  for  through  these  open  screens  those  within 
could  see  and  be  themselves  unseen.  There  were  mosques 
w^hose  tall  white  minarets  were  softly  outlined  against 
the  clear  blue  sky;  hospitals  too,  and  kitchens  in  which 
the  poor  were  always  fed ;  and  dungeons  and  death-cham- 
bers, as  well  as  the  "  cages  "  in  which  the  royal  princes 
pined  with  grief  and  kept  their  dissolute  feasts  by  turns. 

After  the  Old  Seraglio  was  abandoned  as  the  Sultan's 
residence,  the  harems  of  deceased  sultans  were  enclosed 
here  for  life;  and  it  is  said  that  the  wives  and  slaves  of 
Abdul  Medjid,  who  were  thus  secluded,  set  it  on  fire, 
hoping  to  gain  more  liberty  elsewhere.  This  fire  destroyed 
many  rare  and  valuable  objects;  and  since  that  time  this 
gem  of  the  Golden  Horn  has  l)een  allowed  to  run  to  waste, 
until  it  is  now  an  uncared-for  garden,  through  which  a 
railway  runs. 

Abdul  Medjid  could  not  support  the  weight  of  its  tragic 
associations.  Since  the  time  of  Mohammed  II.,  twenty- 
five  sultans  of  his  own  family  had  died  or  been  murdered 
or  imprisoned  within  this  palace,  and  to  him  it  was  full 
of  ghosts. 

In  the  square  before  the  principal  gate  of  the  Seraglio 


THE  OLD  SERAGLIO  AND  OTHER  PALACES.     179 

is  the  exquisite  fountain  of  Ahmed  III.,  which,  with  that 
of  Tophane,  may  easily  be  called  the  most  beautiful  of 
the  many  fountains  in  Constantinople  that  are  noticeable 
for  the  beauty  of  their  design  and  ornament.  This  foun- 
tain of  Ahmed  is  so  pleasing  in  its  architecture,  and  so 
exquisite  in  its  ornamentation,  that  it  presents  itself  to 
my  imagination  whenever  fountains  are  spoken  of.  Its 
decoration  is  in  arabesques,  and  glitters  with  gold.  Its 
proportions  are  exquisite,  and  the  ornament  inside  the 
deep  pagoda  roof  —  all  in  the  delightful  tint  which  dead 
gold  takes  on  in  this  climate  —  is  composed  of  pencillings 
and  traceries.  The  panels  on  the  sides  have  roses  and 
stars  delicately  carved.  Here  and  there  are  Turkish 
verses  entwined  among  other  designs,  and  the  supporting 
columns  are  slender  and  beautiful.  The  principal  inscrip- 
tion reads,  "This  fountain  speaks  to  you  in  the  verses  of 
the  Sultan  Ahmed.  Turn  the  key  of  this  pure  and  tran- 
quil spring,  and  invoke  the  name  of  God;  drink  of  this 
inexhaustible  and  limpid  water,  and  pray  for  the  Sultan!  " 
In  short,  this  fountain  is  a  gem  of  Orientalism,  standing 
on  a  platform  shaded  by  tall  trees,  from  which  there  is  an 
enchanting  view  of  sea  and  land. 

We  will  enter  the  Court  of  the  Janissaries  by  the  Bab- 
i-Houmayoun,  or  the  Sublime  Porte,  with  its  four  superb 
columns,  above  which  is  the  inscription,  "May  Allah  ever 
preserve  the  glory  of  the  possessor  I  may  Allah  strengthen 
his  foundation!"  Just  inside  this  gate  were  the  niches 
devoted  to  the  heads  which  had  been  cut  off.  Sometimes 
the  bodies  were  placed  there  with  the  head  between  the 
feet;  and  invariably  the  accusation  and  the  sentence  of 
the  Sultan  were  affixed  to  these  ghastly  objects.  As 
recently  as  the  Ijeginning  of  this  century,  on  one  occasion 
the  heads  of  all  the  members  of  the  Divan  appeared  here 
together;  and  the  Janissaries  seized  them  with  savage  joy, 
bore  them  to  the  Ilippodrome,  and  ranged  them  before  the 


180  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

kettles  which  were  so  prominent  in  all  that  concerned  this 
corps. 

The  Sublime  Porte  was  guarded  by  the  Janissaries,  and 
fifty  porters  were  required  for  this  service,  together  with 
the  gardeners  of  the  Seraglio,  whose  duties  seem  to  have 
been  strangely  varied,  since  they  were  also  charged  with 
that  of  guarding  the  Sultan.  Each  Moslem  who  passed 
by  this  gate  was  expected  to  say  a  prayer  for  the  "  Lord 
of  his  Age."  We  query  whether  the  mutterings  were  not 
sometimes  curses. 

The  Court  of  the  Janissaries  is  large,  and  in  it  is  the 
church  of  S.  Irene,  wliich  now  serves  as  an  armoury.  It 
is  a  venerable  edifice,  though  not  the  original  erected  by 
Constantine,  but  that  which  Leo  the  Isaurian  built  on 
the  same  site.  It  is  shaded  by  a  magnificent  plane-tree, 
and  near  it  are  remnants  of  Greek  statues  and  bas-reliefs, 
and  sarcophagi  of  ancient  aspect.  Within  are  preserved 
the  keys  of  conquered  cities,  the  weapons  of  Scander- 
beg  and  Mohammed  II.,  and  an  enamelled  armlet  of 
Tamerlane. 

In  this  court  stands  that  famous  tree  which  requires  the 
arms  of  ten  men  to  encircle  it.  Beneath  its  spreading 
branches  are  two  small  columns  which  were  used  for 
decapitations,  and  stood  as  a  constant  warning  before 
the  thousands  who  passed  through  this  court.  Here 
entered  all  who  attended  the  Divan,  or  were  on  their  way 
to  the  presence  of  the  Padishah.  Here  came  trains  of 
camels  bringing  arms  to  S.  Irene,  or  provisions  foi"  the 
multitude  who  ate  the  Sultan's  bread,  which  demanded 
the  services  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  bakers  and  two 
hundred  cooks. 

Around  the  court  are  low  liuildings  which  served  for 
stables,  or  magazines,  or  dwellings  for  slaves.  Here  the 
tax-gatherers  brought  their  burdens  of  riches  into  the 
midst  of  hundreds  of  men  of  all  ranks,  some  of  whom 


THE  OLD  SERAGLIO  AND  OTHER  PALACES.     181 

were  Splendidly,  and  all  picturesquely  dressed.  The  very 
highest  officials  of  the  empire  were  seen  here,  as  well  as 
the  Bulgarian  grooms  who  led  the  horses  that  were  fed 
from  silver  mangers.  From  century  to  century  all  these 
and  many  others  passed  to  and  fro  in  this  now  deserted 
court  of  the  Janissaries. 

Through  the  Ortu  Kapu  —  Middle  Gate  —  one  may  now 
pass  at  will.  It  was  formerly  guarded  by  double  doors, 
which  enclosed  a  small  space  that  was  quite  in  keeping 
with  the  grim  purposes  for  which  it  was  used.  Here 
those  who  were  doomed  to  death  were  strangled  or  stabbed. 
Above  are  four  apertures  where  the  mute  executioners 
were  stationed,  and  could  overlook  what  occurred  below, 
while  they  could  also  communicate  with  the  Divan  by  a 
secret  passage,  and  thus  receive  the  orders  which  they 
hastily  executed. 

Another  gate — Bab-i-Scadet,  the  Gate  of  Felicity  — 
leads  into  a  much  larger  court,  around  which  are  several 
other  portals.  This  gate  opened  into  the  very  home  of  the 
Commander  of  the  Faithful,  and  during  four  centuries 
was  closed  against  all  Christians  who  did  not  come  in  the 
name  of  a  sovereign  or  a  nation.  It  cast  a  spell  of  terror 
over  all  who  presented  themselves  before  it,  and  was  the 
scene  of  frequent  rebellions.  Here  the  Janissaries  and 
other  re})els  assembled,  and  demanded  the  victims  that 
alone  could  aj)i)ease  their  rage.  Many  a  favourite  general, 
eunuch,  vizier,  or  treasurer  has  been  thrust  from  this 
portal  inio  the  midst  of  a  beastlike  crowd  that  soon  ended 
his  misery.  From  this  gate  Hafiz,  the  beloved  vizier  ol 
Murad  IV.,  went  to  his  death;  and  here  Mohammed  111. 
was  forced  to  salute  the  soldiers  who  had  murdered  his 
most  faithful  servants  in  the  presence  of  the  corpses. 

Yes,  the  Sultan  was  an  autocrat ;  but  even  he  was  some- 
times brought  to  bay  before  the  passions  of  his  servants, 
and  could  only  assuage  his  grief  and  pacify  his  rage  with 


182  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  reflection  that  his  opi)ortunity  for  revenge  would 
come.     And  rarely  was  he  cheated  of  this  joy ! 

The  Hall  of  the  Throne,  also  called  the  Green  Vaults 
of  Constantino,  is  entered  from  this  court.  The  building 
is  not  large,  but  has  a  beautiful  gallery  and  rich  doorway. 
The  interior  is  decorated  with  porcelain  tiles  and  marbles 
on  the  walls,  while  the  vaulted  ceiling  has  the  usual 
arabesque  in  gold.  In  the  centre  is  the  basin  for  a  foun- 
tain, and  the  throne  of  solid  gold  at  one  end  is  like  a 
large  bed  with  a  canopy  supported  by  slender  columns 
studded  with  precious  stones.  Each  column  is  surmounted 
by  a  globe  and  crescent  from  which  hang  horse-tails,  as 
symbols  of  the  military  power  of  the  Padishah.  The 
canopy  has  a  fringe  of  pearls,  and  many  gems  are  set  in 
various  parts  of  this  curious  structure,  which,  being  un- 
cut, produce  no  effect.  Involuntarily  one  remembers  that 
the  nineteen  heads  of  the  brothers  of  Mohammed  III.  were 
piled  around  this  throne. 

Here  is  a  collection  of  sabres  and  other  weapons,  and 
jewelled  armour,  literally  encrusted  with  rubies,  diamonds, 
and  other  precious  stones.  The  housings  and  stirrups  and 
other  horse  furniture  arc  equally  rich,  as  well  as  drinking- 
cups  and  other  rare  vessels  of  jade,  onyx,  and  crystal. 
The  unique  feature  of  this  exhibit  is  the  drawers  full  of 
gems,  some  of  which  are  uncut,   and  all  unset. 

Near  the  throne-room  is  the  hall  in  which  the  Holy 
Standard  of  the  Prophet,  with  his  sabre,  staff,  and  bow, 
is  guarded.  Its  treasures  are  displayed  to  the  assembled 
court  but  once  a  year ;  and  it  is  believed  that  should  the 
eye  of  an  infidel  rest  on  the  Holy  Standard,  he  would  be 
blinded  as  by  lightning.  This  most  sacred  object  is  kept 
in  a  mihrah  rolled  in  forty  coverings  of  silk;  and  the 
Sultan  alone  can  bring  it  forth. 

It  is  difficult  for  us  to  appreciate  the  adoration  of 
the  Mussulmans  for  this  oriflamme.     It  accompanied  the 


THE  OLD    SERAGLIO  AND   OTHER   PALACES.  183 

army  only  when  it  was  led  by  the  Sultan  in  person  or  by 
the  Grand  Vizier.  When  it  was  returned  to  the  Seraglio, 
prayers  were  said,  and  an  incense  of  aloes  and  ambergris 
burned  around  it  during  several  days. 

In  1768,  when  this  sandjak-cJierif  was  brought  forth, 
some  Europeans  were  concealed  in  Moslem  houses,  where 
from  behind  the  window-curtains  they  could  watch  the 
procession  and  behold  the  sacred  banner.  Suddenly 
they  were  discovered,  and  an  emir  cried  out:  "Here 
are  ghiaours,  who  dare  profane  the  Standard  of  the 
Prophet  with  their  unholy  gaze.  Let  these  dogs  be 
punished !  " 

Instantly  a  crowd  of  fanatics  rushed  in  and  killed  every 
European  found  there.  Ladies  were  dragged  by  the  hair, 
kicked,  and  frightfully  abused.  The  wife  and  daughters 
of  an  imperial  ambassador  were  among  the  slain.  The 
Grand  Vizier  announced  that  the  murderers  would  be 
punished;  but  they  could  not  be  idcntilicd,  and  no  one 
paid  a  penalty  for  these  crimes. 

Various  other  halls  and  buildings  open  into  this  court, 
which  were  formerly  guarded  by  eunuchs,  black  and  white, 
but  are  now  abandoned  and  falling  into  ruin.  Here  is 
the  hall  which,  in  its  inscriptions  and  style  of  archi- 
tecture, celebrated  the  victory  of  Thcodosius  over  the 
Goths,  and  depositories  for  the  wardrobes  and  archives 
of  the  State,  as  well  as  stables  and  other  less  important 
halls  and  offices.  Each  separate  edifice  is  supported  by 
delicately  carved  columns,  which  I  should  describe  as 
fossil  lacework,  and  each  of  them  is  surmounted  by  a 
dome.  All  about,  in  and  out  of  the  various  courts  of  the 
Seraglio,  are  gardens  and  j)assages,  which  arc  so  confus- 
ing to  one  not  familiar  with  them  that  the  plan  of  the 
palace  could  only  be  made  intelligible  by  a  map  showing 
the  relative  positions  of  the  ])rinci[)al  courts  and  the  edi- 
fices surrounding  them.     The  impression  on  the  stranger 


184  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

is  that  of  interminable  labyrinths  of  gardens,  passages, 
courts,  gates,   kiosks,   and  peristyles. 

The  Hall  of  the  Divan  is  important,  and  has  not  suffered 
greatly  from  fire.  It  occupies  an  isolated  kiosk,  —  a 
word,  by  the  way,  which  is  applied  to  edifices  of  all  sizes, 
from  a  small  summer-house  to  a  moderately  large  temple. 
This  hall  is  large  and  low,  and  dimly  lighted  by  small 
moresquc  windows.  It  is  lined  with  occasional  porcelain 
panels  and  marble,  on  which  are  arabesques  in  gold.  Its 
only  furniture  is  the  throne  and  the  divans,  on  which  the 
members  of  the  council  sat.  The  Sultan  could  watch  the 
proceedings  of  the  Divan  from  a  latticed  window  above 
the  throne,  which  was  occupied  by  the  Grand  Vizier,  in 
the  absence  of  the  Sultan.  The  niche  in  which  this 
window  was  placed  communicated  by  a  secret  passage  with 
the  apartments  of  the  Sultan,  and  the  councillors  could 
never  be  quite  sure  as  to  the  presence  or  absence  of  his 
Imperial  Highness  when  they  assembled  five  times  each 
week. 

Mohammed  II.  introduced  some  luxurious  customs  into 
the  Divan.  He  first  presided  with  a  desk  before  him,  on 
which  was  a  copy  of  the  Koran  set  with  jewels,  which  tra- 
dition says  absolutely  illuminated  the  hall.  He  rested 
his  feet  on  a  Persian  rug  embroidered  with  pearls,  and 
in  all  his  surroundings  was  quite  the  Turkish  dude ;  but 
his  love  of  luxury  did  not  prevent  his  being  a  great  war- 
rior, neither  did  it  so  enervate  him  as  to  unfit  him  for 
carrying  out  the  custom  of  slaughtering  his  royal  brothers. 

The  meeting  of  the  Divan  was  an  ordeal  for  all, —  for  its 
members,  who,  by  a  word  unwelcome  to  the  Padishah, 
might  lose  their  lives;  and  to  those  without,  who  could 
never  be  sure  that  the  hour  of  their  death  was  not  being 
fixed  within  that  sombre  hall,  where  voices  were  low,  and 
footsteps  muffled  in  the  thick  winter  rugs  or  the  soft 
summer  matting. 


THE   OLD    SERAGLIO   AND   OTHER   PALACES.  185 

"■  It  was  a  spectacle  before  which  the  boldest  trembled,  and 
the  most  iunoceut  fearfully  questioned  their  conscience.  A 
pale  light  descending  from  above  fell  on  the  white  turbans,  the 
grave  faces,  the  long  beards,  and  rich  dresses  of  the  magnates. 
Their  voices  sounded  one  after  the  other,  tranquil  and  monoto- 
nous as  the  murmur  of  a  stream,  while  the  accused,  standing  in 
the  middle  of  the  hall,  knew  not  which  mouth  was  speaking. 
Every  look  was  studied,  every  word  weighed,  every  thought 
divined  ;  and  the  sentence  of  death  came  forth  in  quiet,  low- 
voiced  words,  after  long  consultation  in  the  midst  of  a  sepul- 
chral silence.  But  these  haughty  and  impassive  judges  were 
startled  in  their  turn,  when  Murad  the  Fourth  or  the  Second 
Selim  shook  with  furious  hand  the  gilded  lattice  of  the  secret 
chamber !  Then,  after  long  silence  and  hurried  consultation 
by  the  eyes,  they  resumed  their  sitting  with  impassible  faces 
and  solemn  voices  ;  but  ice-cold  hands  were  trembling  under 
their  long  sleeves,  and  they  recommended  their  souls  to 
God."  ^ 

Besides  the  Divan  there  were  the  Library,  the  College 
of  Pages,  and  a  multitude  of  kiosks  not  devoted  to  any 
special  use.  These  were  ornamented  with  lovely  ara- 
besques of  fruit  and  flowers,  panels  in  gold  and  porcelain, 
coloured  glass,  and  every  device  except  the  representation 
of  a  human  being,  which  was  forbidden  by  the  Koran. 
Fortunately  this  command  w^as  sometimes  broken,  or  we 
should  not  have  had  the  ])()rtraits  of  jNIohannned  II.  and 
Suleiman  the  Magnificent.  These  kiosks  were  light  and 
airy,  as  the  Turks  love  to  have  their  apartments.  Repose 
and  sleep  were  courted  on  their  luxurious  divans,  while 
birds  of  all  climes  sang  in  their  gilded  cages,  and 
fountains  lazily  contributed  their  soothing  murmurs. 

The  vast  kitchens  afforded  a  sort  of  club-house  for  the 
pages,  eunuchs,  slaves,  and  minor  officials  and  servants 
of  the  court.     Even  the  Grand  Vizier,  when  he  dined  at 

^  De  Amicis. 


186  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  Seraglio,  and  all  who  were  summoned  to  an  audience 
and  were  not  murdered,  were  fed  at  the  kitchens.  Forty 
thousand  oxen  were  eaten  there  each  year;  and  the  daily 
supply  of  sheep,  lambs,  chickens,  geese,  and  pigeons 
reached  almost  a  thousand. 

The  marvellous  resources  of  the  cooks  in  the  curious 
and  ornamental  arrangements  of  their  dishes  on  the  occa- 
sions of  weddings  and  other  fetes,  can  scarcely  be  exag- 
gerated. Even  roasted  sheep,  when  carved,  set  whole 
flocks  of  small  birds  at  liberty,  which  achievement  quite 
overshadows  that  of  the  cook  in  "  Mother  Goose, "  whose 
fame  rests  on  but  "  four-and-twenty  blackbirds  "  who  sang 
from  the  "dainty  dish  to  set  before  the  king,"  Whole 
gardens,  with  lakes  and  fountains,  flowers  and  shrubs, 
were  made  from  sugar,  as  well  as  every  sort  of  animal  and 
bird  known  to  these  artists  in  sweets;  and  we  can  partly 
imagine  the  flavours  of  these  delicacies  when  we  taste  the 
Turkish  Delights  and  other  Oriental  confections  of  our 
own  day. 

It  is  curious  to  remember  that  the  portion  of  the  Old 
Seraglio  of  which  we  have  spoken  —  a  miniature  world 
—  was  a  man's  world.  No  woman  was  seen  within  its 
borders.  It  was  a  fascinating  world  as  well,  —  to  those 
not  subject  to  its  dangers,  —  bright  and  gay  in  its  decora- 
tions of  brilliantly  hued  stuffs  and  banners;  while  men  of 
all  nations,  in  their  splendid  costumes  and  startling  head- 
gear of  endless  variety,  contributed  to  the  general  effect 
of  a  wizard's  land.  The  elephants,  caged  lions,  gazelles, 
monkeys,  and  tropical  birds  sent  from  afar  as  offerings  to 
the  Sultan,  converted  some  spaces  into  most  reputable 
zoological  exhibitions;  while  the  rich  Persian  rugs,  luxu- 
rious Northern  furs,  priceless  Indian  cashmeres,  and  an 
endless  variety  of  precious  objects  from  all  quarters  of 
the  globe,  afforded  a  rarer  treat  to  the  artistic  eye  than 
could  be  enjoyed  in  many  a  celebrated  museum. 


THE  OLD  SERAGLIO  AND  OTHER  PALACES.     187 

There  were  certain  types  of  men  always  to  be  seen  here, 
noticeably  the  Janissaries  and  the  eunuchs.  The  former 
were  fierce  and  proud  in  bearing,  each  carrying  at  his  belt 
weapons  enough  for  a  dozen  men,  while  their  coarse  white 
turbans  and  yellow  boots  distinguished  them  from  other 
soldiers.  The  eunuchs,  both  black  and  white,  moved 
with  dignity,  as  all  others  gave  way  and  opened  a  path 
before  their  hideous  faces  and  giant  forms.  The  chief 
eunuch  wielded  a  tremendous  power,  and  his  voluminous 
trousers,  red  tunic,  or  splendid  brocades  gave  him  the 
appearance  of  being  even  more  enormous  than  he  actually 
was. 

Besides  these,  at  intervals  the  keepers  of  the  Sacred 
Standard  passed  through  the  courts,  and  every  Moslem 
fell  prone  before  them  with  cries  of  "Allah,  Allah!" 
The  muezzin  who  sounded  the  call  to  prayer  within  the 
gardens,  naked  dervishes  just  from  Mecca,  and  the  learned 
astrologers  who  directed  the  downsittings  and  uprisings 
of  the  Padishah,  were  reverentially  saluted  as  they  passed 
to  and  fro  in  the  crowded  Seraglio  court. 

The  chief  cook,  with  a  gigantic  spoon  upon  his  shoulder, 
bustled  here  and  there.  The  master  of  the  robes  passed 
by  with  the  Sultan's  garments  for  the  day.  Slaves  of  all 
nations,  and  aghas  richly  robed  in  cloth  of  gold  and  furs, 
huntsmen  and  chamljerluins,  secretaries  and  pashas, 
muftis,  viziers,  and  ulemas,  as  well  as  the  l)lood-curdling 
mutes,  were  seen  passing  and  repassing,  each  on  his  own 
care  intent.  And  one  versed  in  such  lore  could  say  wlio 
and  what  each  man  of  this  vast  concourse  must  be,  from 
the  cut  or  colour  of  his  garment,  the  style  of  his  head- 
dress, the  peculiarity  of  his  weapon,  or  some  distinguishii;;-' 
sign  a])0ut  his  costume. 

"Other  personal  attendants  of  tho  Sultan  were  there  too,  — 
sandal-hearers,  and  eunuelis  whose  business  it  was  to  lick  the 
floor  before  spreading  tlie  royal  carpet ;  a  wardrobe-keeper  to 


188  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

look  after  his  turbans,  and  dust  and  polish  the  diamond  aigrettes 
which  glitter  in  the  folds  ;  the  barber  who  shaves  the  Sultan's 
head,  —  his  beard  was  cut  by  scissors,  as  not  trusting  a  razor  so 
near  his  tliroat ;  oculists  to  stain  the  e3'elids  of  the  ladies,  and 
purveyors  of  flowers  with  which  the  harem  was  decorated,  to 
say  nothing  of  messengers  continually  passing  and  repassing 
on  errands  of  life  and  death  to  pashas  and  ministers,  bearers  of 
those  terrible  Hatti-scherifs  —  edicts  —  which  often  desolated 
whole  cities  and  provinces,  —  a  motley  crowd,  yet  all  pass- 
ing without  haste  or  confusion  through  the  dark  gate  of  Ortu 
Kapu,  —  phlegmatic,  calm,  be  it  to  live  or  die."  ^ 

But  of  all  this  great  palace  that  most  mysterious 
portion,  the  harem,  has  a  peculiar  attraction  for  the 
feminine  Western  mind.  It  is  here  that  the  traveller  and 
sight-seer  desires  to  be  admitted,  by  reason  of  the  romance 
and  the  horrors  associated  with  it.  Here  the  ardent  mis- 
sionary desires  to  penetrate,  that  she  may  tell  the  sweet 
Christian  story  to  these  Moslem  women,  and  assure  them 
that  they  have  souls,  and  teach  them  the  true  value  of 
them.  Here  too  I  must  believe  that  the  sterner  sex  would 
gladly  come  to  feast  their  eyes  on  Oriental  beauty,  and 
satisfy  their  abounding  though  persistently  ignored  curi- 
osity; for  on  the  three  occasions  w^hen  I  have  visited 
the  harems  of  distinguished  Moslems,  the  gentlemen,  who 
were  left  in  the  outer  courts,  were  apparently  transformed 
into  skilful  lawyers,  during  my  absence,  so  shrewd  and 
searching  were  they  in  my  cross-examination  when  I 
rejoined  them. 

The  harems  of  the  sultans  until  the  time  of  Abdul 
Hamid  II.,  who  attempts  to  make  economies,  have  been 
luxuriously  furnished ;  and  that  of  the  Old  Seraglio  was 
no  exception.  This  portion  of  the  palace  was  on  the 
highest  part  of  the  hill;  and  the  views  from  its  windows 
embraced  the  blue  sea,  the  Scutari  hills,  and  the  moun- 
1  Frances  Elliot. 


THE   OLD   SERAGLIO  AND   OTHER   PALACES.  189 

tains  beyond.  It  was  divided  into  a  cluster  of  miniature 
palaces  or  kiosks  in  the  midst  of  the  gardens.  The  domes, 
pinnacles,  crescents,  and  balls  which  ornamented  them 
glittered  in  the  sun,  and  at  its  best  estate  the  whole  scene 
was  one  of  fairy-like  beauty.  The  favourite  sultanas  had 
separate  establishments,  with  numerous  slaves  to  do  their 
will 

The  Mother  Sultana  lived  like  a  royal  lady,  and 
wielded  all  the  influence  that  her  intelligence  was  equal 
to.  Next  her  should  be  mentioned  the  aunts,  sisters,  and 
daughters  of  the  Sultan.  There  were  also  the  Gheducha, 
—  daughters  of  felicity,  —  about  to  become  mothers,  and 
nurses  who  cared  for  the  infants.  There  was  also  a  great 
variety  of  slaves;  musicians  who  amused  the  ladies,  and 
those  who  fed  them  with  the  sweets  which  they  devour 
in  great  quantities.  There  were  the  eunuchs  who  con- 
ducted the  sultanas  to  the  bath  or  the  bazaar;  those 
who  attended  the  Sultana  Valideh,  who  always  moved  in 
regal  state ;  and  there  were  those  who  trained  the  younger 
slaves,  and  prepared  them  to  please  the  Padishah  when 
he  should  weary  of  those  he  had  already  seen. 

Guarded  as  the  inmates  of  the  harem  were,  they  knew 
much  that  did  not  concern  them,  as  the  Sultan  would  have 
said.  Everything  of  importance  that  happened  in  the 
Divan  or  the  city  was  well  known  to  a  large  number  of 
them,  and  those  of  sufficient  intelligence  to  ac(|uire  an 
influence  were  often  very  powerful. 

How  exciting  and  rriysterious  it  must  all  have  been! 
What  passions  have  here  spent  themselves !  What  hopes 
have  ])een  l)lasted  for  the  many,  aud  what  hai)piness  and 
power  conferred  upon  the  few !  This  is  now  replaced  by 
simple  desolation :  kiosks,  towers,  and  lattices  arc  crum- 
1)1  ing  and  falling;  gardens  are  neglected,  vegetation  is 
yellow  and  dirty,  and  no  one  is  left  to  regret  the  beauty 
that  has  departed. 


190  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

"  Gone,  all  gone !  Sultans,  kadines,  grand  viziers,  beys, 
agbas,  slaves,  —  of  all  lands  and  all  ages,  —  white-haired  ka- 
noums,  stately  validehs  ;  youth  and  age,  virgins  and  mothers. 

"  Some  stabbed  with  a  dagger  as  fine  as  a  needle  point,  or 
strangled  with  an  almost  invisible  skein  of  silk,  or  poisoned 
by  a  sweet  drink  or  luscious-tasted  fruit.  A  mystery  of  sll 
mysteries,  known  but  to  the  waves  and  those  dark  witnesses 
the  cypresses,  which  have  survived  the  rack  of  fire  and  ruin."  ' 

Fortunately  we  have  an  account  of  life  in  the  harem 
from  a  lady  who  modestly  conceals  her  name,  but  shows 
a  perfect  knowledge  of  the  subjects  of  which  she  writes. 
After  a  residence  of  twenty  years  in  Turkey,  —  since 
1850,  as  I  understand,  when  the  reigning  Sultan  was  not 
a  recluse  as  now,  —  she  gives  the  results  of  her  expe- 
rience, from  which  I  shall  quote  sufficiently  to  afford 
an  idea  of  the  valuable  information  which  she  gives :  — • 

"The  haremlik  of  the  Seraglio  contains  from  a  thousand  to 
fifteen  hundred  women,  divided  among  the  Sultan's  liousehold, 
that  of  his  mother,  and  those  of  the  princes.  This  vast  host 
of  women  of  all  ranks,  ages,  and  conditions  are,  without  excep- 
tion, of  slave  extraction,  originating  from  the  cargoes  of  slaves 
that  yearly  find  their  way  to  Turkey  from  Circassia,  Georgia, 
Abyssinia,  and  Arabia,  in  spite  of  the  prohibition  of  tlie 
slave-trade.  .  .  .  Possessed  with  the  knowledge  of  no  written 
language,  with  a  confused  idea  of  religion  mixed  with  tlie 
superstitious  practices  that  ignorance  engenders,  poorly  clad, 
portionless,  and  unprotected,  they  are  drawn  into  the  Seraglio 
by  chains  of  bondage.  ...  The  training  they  receive  depends 
upon  the  career  to  which  their  age,  personal  attractions,  and 
colour  entitle  them.  The  young  and  beautiful,  whose  lot  has 
a  great  cliance  of  being  connected  with  that  of  his  Imperial 
Majesty,  or  some  high  dignitary  to  whom  she  may  be  presented 
by  the  Valideh  or  the  Sultan  as  odalisk  or  wife,  receives  a 
veneer  composed  of  the  formalities  of  Turkish  etiquette,  ele- 

1  Frances  Elliot. 


THE   OLD   SERAGLIO  AND   OTHER   PALACES.  191 

ganceof  deportmeut,  the  art  of  beautifying  the  person,  dancing, 
singing,  or  playing  on  some  musical  instrument.  To  tlie  young 
and  willing,  instruction  is  given  in  the  rudiments  of  the  Turk- 
ish language  ;  they  are  also  initiated  in  the  simpler  forms  of 
Mohammedanism  taught  to  women,  and  the  observance  of  the 
fasts  and  feasts.  .  .  .  Many  of  these  women  possess  great 
natural  talent,  and  if  favoured  with  some  education,  and 
endowed  with  a  natural  elegance,  become  very  tolerable  spe- 
cimens of  the  fair  sex.  All  the  Seraglio  inmates  do  not 
belong  to  this  class  on  their  entrance  to  the  imperial  abode  ; 
many  of  them  have  been  previously  purchased  by  Turkish 
hanoums  —  ladies  —  of  high  station,  who  from  speculative 
or  other  motives  give  them  the  training  described,  and 
when  sutHciently  polished  sell  them  at  high  prices,  or  present 
them  to  the  Seraglio  with  the  view  to  some  object.  .  .  .  Otto- 
man sultaus,  with  two  exceptions,  have  never  been  known  to 
marry  ;  the  mates  of  the  Sultan,  clioseu  from  the  slaves,  or 
from  those  presented  to  him,  can  only  be  admitted  to  the 
honourable  title  of  wife  when  they  have  borne  children.  (Of 
these  there  may  be  seven  distinguished  by  numerical  numbers.) 
The  slaves  that  have  borne  children  beyond  this  number  are 
called  '  hanoums ; '  their  children  rank  with  the  princes  and 
princesses.  Then  there  are  the  favourites  who  have  no  right 
to  the  title  of  wife  or  lumoum,  and  depend  solely  upon  the 
caprice  of  their  master  and  the  influence  they  may  have  ac- 
quired over  liim,  for  their  position  in  the  household. 

"Under  this  system  every  slave  in  the  Seraglio,  from  the 
scullery  maid  to  tlie  fair  and  delicate  beauty  purchased  for  her 
personal  charms,  may  aspire  to  attaining  the  rank  of  wife, 
odalisk,  or  favourite.  .  .  .  Generally  speaking,  however,  the 
wives  of  sultans  are  select  beauties  who  are  offered  to  him 
yearly  by  the  nation  on  the  feast  of  Kandil  Ghedjessi ;  others 
are  gifts  of  tlie  Valideh  and  other  persons  wishing  to  make  an 
offering  to  the  Sultan.  Wiien  one  of  tliese  odalisks  has  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  the  good  graces  of  the  Sultan,  he  calls  the 
under-superintondent  of  the  harem,  and  notifies  her  of  his  desire 
to  receive  the  favoured  beauty  in   his  apartment.      The  slave, 


192  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

beiug  informed  of  this,  is  bathed,  dressed  with  great  care  and 
elegance,  and  introduced  in  the  evening  into  the  imperial  pres- 
ence. Slionld  she  find  favour  with  her  lord  and  master,  she  is 
admitted  into  a  room  reserved  for  slaves  of  this  category  during 
the  time  needful  for  ascertaining  her  future  rank  in  the  Seraglio. 
Should  she  bear  a  child,  a  special  apartment  is  set  apart  for 
her.  .  .  .  The  slave  who  by  lier  interesting  position  becomes 
entitled  to  separate  apartments  receives  a  pension,  has  her  own 
slaves,  eunuchs,  doctors,  banker,  carriages,  and  caiques,  and  is 
supplied  with  apparel,  jewels,  and  all  other  requisites  suited 
to  her  rank.  She  dines  in  her  own  rooms,  receives  her  friends, 
and  goes  out  when  allowed  to  do  so.  On  attaining  this  rank 
a  new  world,  dazzling  with  gold,  luxury,  and  every  refine- 
.ment  belonging  to  the  favoured  and  elevated,  is  opened  to  her, 
raising  her  far  above  her  former  companions  in  toil  and  frolic, 
who  in  future,  setting  aside  all  familiarity,  stand  before  her 
with  folded  arms,  kiss  the  hem  of  her  garment,  and  obey  her 
orders  with  profound  respect.  The  favoured  beauty  fulfils 
the  duties  of  her  new  position  with  the  elegance,  dignity,  and 
savoir  /aire  of  an  enchanted  being,  who,  accustomed  to  the 
distant  perspective  of  the  fairyland  which  has  been  the  orte 
object  of  her  dreams,  suddenly  attains  it,  and  feels  at  home. 
Her  single  aim  in  life  is  now  to  preserve  those  charms  which 
have  caused  her  elevation." 

Curiously  enough,  the  fashion  for  l)londcs  or  brunettes 
changes  in  the  imperial  harem.  In  the  days  of  Abdul 
Medjid  blue-eyed,  •  golden-haired  beauties  pleased  the 
Sultan,  and  were  sought  and  trained  by  those  who  wished 
to  present  them  to  him ;  and  many  brunettes  who  used  a 
certain  fluid  sold  by  the  hair-dressers  of  Pera  paid  for 
their  folly  in  maladies  which  it  induced. 

While  most  of  the  seraili  are  entirely  uneducated,  there 
are  occasionally  gifted  natures  there,  women  who  would 
be  refined  and  ladylike  under  all  circumstances.  The 
real  Turkish  lady  is  dignified  and  elegant,  friendly  to 
those  whom  she  likes,  but  proud  and   reserved  to  those 


THE  OLD  SERAGLIO  AND  OTHER  PALACES.     193 

who  do  not  please  her.  Some  of  them  are  sensitive  to  a 
degree  that  totally  unfits  them  for  life  unblessed  with 
affection,  and  they  pine  and  fade  away,  unless  by  some 
happy  chance,  which  rarely  occurs,  they  are  set  free  and 
married. 

Another  class  of  serailis  are  called  "wild,"  and  are 
cunning,  mischievous,  extravagant,  and  unruly.  In  spite 
of  the  authority  of  the  eunuchs  and  all  possible  watchful- 
ness, these  disorderly  creatures  are  constantly  perpetrating 
the  most  unexpected  tricks.  During  the  reign  of  Abdul 
Medjid  this  class  became  so  troublesome  that  some  Avere 
exiled,  and  some  married  to  minor  officials,  who  were 
sent  to  posts  at  a  distance  from  the  capital;  and  in  spite 
of  rich  gifts  and  court  favours,  these  compulsory  husbands 
were  much  to  be  pitied. 

There  are  frequent  amusements  for  the  members  of  the 
imperial  harem.  These  largely  depend  on  the  tastes  of 
the  Sultan.  Abdul  Medjid  built  a  theatre,  in  which 
European  actors  appeared,  and  the  ladies  of  his  harem 
witnessed  the  performances  behind  lattices.  This  Sultan 
was  very  fond  of  ballet  dancing,  and  of  various  Eurojiean 
entertainments,  and  also  enjoyed  the  marionettes  of  his 
own  people.  He  was  indulgent  to  his  harem,  and  afforded 
its  inmates  the  opportunity  to  go  shopping  in  the  foreign 
quarters  of  Pcra,  to  their  infinite  delight. 

Garden-parties  and  |)icnics  have  always  been  favourite 
amusements  with  Turkish  ladies.  These  w^erc  sometimes 
vei-y  gay.  Some  of  the  maidens  dressed  as  pages,  and 
made  love  to  their  companions.  There  was  music  and 
dancing,  while  fireworks  and  illuminations  added  to  llie 
fascination  of  tlie  scene;  and  the  races  in  caiques,  when 
the  fair  rowers  were  in  the  most  dinphancius  of  costumes, 
made  a  favourite  featui-e  of  tlie  entertainment. 

The  more  dignified  sultanas  and  hanoums  were  com- 
fortably seated  on  rugs,  and  watched  the  gay  scene  with 

13 


194  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

interest.  Sherbets,  fruits,  ices,  and  sweets,  together 
with  cigarettes,  helped  to  make  the  time  pass  agreeably ; 
but  the  moments  of  supreme  excitement  were  those  in 
which  the  Sultan  indolently  approached  a  group,  or  singled 
out  some  especial  favourite,  and  spent  a  few  moments  in 
saying  a  pleasant  word,  and  perliaps  bestowed  some  gcntio 
caress,  as  he  passed  through  the  gardens. 

The  life  which  we  have  outlined  is  much  the  same  in  all 
the  imperial  palaces,  of  which  there  are  more  than  twenty. 
They  are  variously  named  seraglios,  yahlis,  and  kiosks, 
according  to  their  size.  They  are  mostly  near  the 
Bosphorus,  though  a  few  are  inland.  Next  to  the  Old 
Seraglio  in  importance  are  Dolmabatchke  and  Beshiktash. 
These  palaces,  uniting  European  architecture  with  Oriental 
ornament,  are  not  especially  attractive  or  satisfactory  in 
their  style;  but  they  are  surrounded  with  delightful 
grounds,  and  have  extensive  and  charming  views  from 
the  interiors,  as  well  as  from  the  shore  and  the  heights  at 
the  back  of  the  palaces. 

The  valleys  around  Beshiktash  are  public  walks,  and 
as  there  are  tombs  in  them  they  are  also  places  of 
pilgrimage ;  but  the  actual  gardens  of  the  palaces  are 
enclosed  by  high  walls.  Some  idea  of  their  luxuriance 
is  afforded  by  the  tops  of  the  trees  which  may  be  seen, 
and  by  the  vines,  which,  having  lined  the  walls,  hang 
over  the  outside  like  a  green  curtain.  These  two 
palaces,  with  their  detached  buildings  and  kiosks,  form 
a  succession  of  imperial  residences  such  as  can  be 
nowhere  seen  away  from  the  enchanting  shores  of  the 
Bosphorus. 

Another  charming  retreat  from  the  bustle  and  stir  of 
Stamboul  is  the  Palace  of  Beylerbey,  a  favourite  residence 
with  Abdul  Aziz ;  it  was  here  that  he  first  saw  the 
Sultana  Mihri.  It  is  situated  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  nnd 
is  an  ugly  edifice,   but  surrounded  by  such  lovely  woods 


THE  OLD  SERAGLIO  AND  OTHER  PALACES.    195 

and  commanding  such  an  outlook  as  easily  explain  its 
fascination.  This  was  the  palace  of  Eugenie  while  visit- 
ing Abdul  Aziz,  and  the  whole  palace  was  refitted  for  her 
reception.  As  we  have  said,  Abdul  Aziz  wished  to  be 
taken  to  Beylerbey  after  his  deposition. 

The  Palace  of  Cheragan,  in  which  the  same  Sultan  and 
the  Sultana  Mihri  died,  is  not  far  from  Bishiktash.  Built 
by  Mohammed  II.,  and  renovated  by  Abdul  Aziz,  it  has 
commended  itself  to  the  Turks  as  a  charming  palace ;  few 
foreigners,  however,  would  agree  with  them  in  the  regard 
they  bestow  on  it.  Nevertheless,  De  Amicis  found  some 
things  in  it  to  praise :  — 

"  Nothing  of  all  the  splendour  remains  in  my  memory  except 
the  Sultan's  baths,  made  of  whitest  marble,  sculptured  with 
pendent  flowers  and  stalactites,  and  decorated  with  fringes  and 
delicate  embroideries  that  one  feared  to  touch,  so  fragile  did 
they  seem.  The  disposition  of  the  rooms  reminded  me  vaguely 
of  the  Alhambra.  Our  steps  made  no  sound  upon  the  rich 
carpets  spread  everywhere.  Now  and  then  a  eunuch  pulled  a 
cord,  and  a  green  curtain  rose  and  displayed  the  Bosphorus, 
Asia,  a  thousand  ships,  a  great  light ;  and  then  all  vanished 
again,  as  in  a  flash  of  lightning.  The  rooms  seemed  endless, 
and  as  each  door  appeared  we  hastened  our  steps  ;  but  a  pro- 
found silence  reigned  in  ever}'  part,  and  there  was  no  vestige 
of  any  living  being,  nor  rustle  of  garment  save  the  sound  made 
by  the  silken  door-curtains  as  they  fell  behind.  At  last  we 
were  weary  of  that  endless  journey  from  one  splendid  empty 
room  to  another,  seeing  ourselves  reflected  in  great  mirrors, 
with  the  black  faces  of  our  guides  and  the  group  of  silent 
servants,  and  were  thankful  to  find  ourselves  again  in  tlie  free 
air,  in  tiie  midst  of  the  ragged,  noisy  denizens  of  Topliaue." 

Yildiz  Kiosk,  the  palace  constantly  occupied  by  Abdul 
Hamid  II.,  is  so  small  as  to  seem  quite  unsuitable  for  the 
home  of  a  Sultan.  As  it  is  three  miles  from  Constanti- 
nople, he  is  always  in  retreat;  and  when  he  is  seen  on  his 


196  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

way  to  the  mosque,  his  emaciation  and  the  expression  of 
his  large,  sad  eyes  excite  a  sympathy  one  does  not  often 
feel  for  a  person  in  so  exalted  a  position. 

We  have  spoken  of  the  chief  imperial  residences  on  the 
shores  of  the  Bosphorus.  They  contribute  an  element  of 
interest  to  these  charming  shores  which  one  is  never 
weary  of  praising,  and  which  have  ever  been  invested 
with  romantic  associations  since  Medea  planted  a  laurel- 
tree  at  Koron  Chesmesh,  and  the  Argonauts  erected  a 
temple  and  a  winged  statue  in  honour  of  the  protecting 
genius  who  had  given  them  their  victory. 


CHAPTER   XL 

S.    SOPHIA    AND    THE    AHMEDYEH. 

THE  difference  in  the  effect  of  the  mosque  of  S. 
Sophia  —  Aya  Sofia  Jamissi  —  when  seen  from  a 
distance  or  near  at  hand,  is  little  short  of  marvellous. 
From  the  heights  of  Pera  or  Scutari  the  dome  rises  into 
the  air,  the  minarets  soar  above  it,  and  one  is  content 
with  this  view  of  "  Agia-Sophia,"  the  Temple  of  Divine 
Wisdom,  and  anticipates  the  emotions  of  reverence  and 
pleasure  which  a  nearer  view  of  the  great  mosque  will 
inspire. 

But,  alas !  a  closer  acquaintance  but  discloses  a  mass  of 
irregular  additions  and  excrescences  which  entirely  con- 
ceal the  original  form  of  the  church  of  Constantino,  or 
even  of  the  mosque  of  Mohammed  11.  The  crowded 
shops,  stalls,  tombs,  and  baths  now  placed  between  the 
buttresses  of  Murad  IV.,  the  refuges  and  kitchens  for  the 
poor,  and  various  other  buildings  and  booths  entirely 
destroy  the  outline  of  the  edifice,  and  leave  in  the  mind 
a  confused  idea  of  a  vast  central  object,  on  which  hang 
all  sorts  of  dependencies,  without  beauty  or  order. 

From  below  one  cannot  see  the  central  dome  encircled 
by  its  forty  windows,  nor  the  six  other  half  and  quar- 
ter domes,  nor  the  crescent  which  cost  fifty  thousand 
ducats.  To  sec  all  this,  one  must  bo  far  away;  and  even 
then  the  silvery  covering  of  the  dome,  which  once  shone 
with  splendour,  is  gone,  and  the  heavy  pedestals  sui)porting 
the  minarets  give  to  the  edifice  the  air  of  a  fortress  rather 
than  that  of  a  temple ;  and  the  walls  being  in  pink  and 


198  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

wliite  stripes,  the  general  effect  is  curious  and  surprising 
rather  than  grand  and  impressive. 

Although  S.  Sophia  was  founded  by  Constantine  the 
Great,  it  has  been  twice  burned.  It  was  injured  by  the 
mobs  of  Greens  and  Blues  in  the  reign  of  Justinian,  and 
essentially  rebuilt  by  him.  Earthquakes  have  shaken  it, 
two  Murads  have  strengthened  and  adorned  it;  and,  in 
truth,  fifteen  centuries  would  be  a  long  time  for  any  work 
of  man  to  stand  so  well  that  we  could  hope  to  have  before 
us  the  original  design,  the  original  finish,  or,  in  fact,  the 
original  in  any  large  degree. 

This  mosque,  however,  stands  where  Constantine  built 
his  church,  where  Theodosius  rebuilt  it,  and  where  Jus- 
tinian, enlarging  the  foundations,  erected  a  far  more 
splendid  temple  than  had  preceded  it.  much  of  which  still 
remains. 

Here  this  emperor  came,  in  the  linen  tunic  of  a  working- 
man,  to  cheer  and  to  hasten  the  ten  thousand  whom  he 
had  cm])loyed  for  this  great  work;  and  we  can  well  under- 
stand his  triumphant  joy,  when  on  that  Christmas  Eve 
thirteen  and  a  half  centuries  ago,  he  rushed  from  the 
entrance  to  the  altar,  with  outstretched  hands,  and  shout- 
ing, "  God  be  praised,  who  has  esteemed  me  worthy  to 
complete  this  w^ork !  "  and  then,  in  a  burst  of  rapture, 
with  hands  closed,  he  added,  "  0  Solomon,  I  have  even 
surpassed  thee !  " 

Earthquakes  and  other  casualties  have  since  weakened 
the  dome;  and  the  work  of  Justinian  in  that  particular 
has  been  supplemented  by  Basil  and  Andronicus,  while 
several  sultans  have  contributed  their  care  and  money  to 
preserve  the  temple  and  make  it  what  it  is  to-day.  Its 
religious  and  historical  importance  can  scarcely  be  over- 
estimated. Its  marble  columns  alone  represent  the 
history,  civilization,  and  art  of  many  nations,  gathered 
ns  they  have  been  from  Phrygia,  Laconia,  Egypt,  Baalbec, 


S.   SOPHIA   AND   THE   AHMED  YE  H,  199 

Rome,  Troas,  Cjzicus,  Athens,  and  the  Cyclades.  Besides 
these  there  are  the  Thessalian,  Molossian,  and  Proconue- 
sian  marbles,  as  well  as  that  from  the  neighbouring  quar- 
ries of  the  Bosphorus. 

The  temples  of  Isis  and  Osiris,  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  at 
Ephesus,  of  the  Athenian  Pallas,  of  Phoebus  at  Delos, 
and  C}'bele  at  Cyzicus,  all  contributed  of  their  treasures 
to  uphold  the  Christian  Basilica  of  Justinian.  With  its 
marbles,  its  precious  metals,  its  ivory,  pearl,  amber,  and 
cedar,  its  thousands  of  workmen,  and  its  hundred  archi- 
tects, we  may  well  say  that  the  entire  world  was  placed 
under  an  imposition  for  the  glory  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Divine  Wisdom. 

The  emperors  and  their  architects  would  seem  to  have 
been  the  creators  of  this  splendid  monument;  but  tradi- 
tion teaches  that  a  higher  power  than  that  of  Constantine 
and  Justinian  directed  its  construction.  We  are  told 
that  an  angel  gave  the  plan  to  Justinian  in  a  dream,  and 
appeared  the  second  time  in  the  guise  of  a  eunuch  to 
hasten  the  completion  of  the  work,  on  which  occasion  he 
swore  by  the  Wisdom  of  God  to  guard  the  temple  while 
the  boy  who  had  been  left  in  charge  of  the  tools  should 
summon  the  workmen;  and  yet  again  when  the  treasury 
was  empty,  the  angel  led  the  treasury  mules  into  a  sub- 
terranean vault  and  loaded  them  heavily  with  pure  gold. 
Thus  the  plan  of  the  temple,  and  its  name,  —  taken  from 
the  angel's  oath,  —  and  the  money  for  its  completion 
were  all  the  gift  of  this  heavenly  being.  And  yet  again, 
when  the  emperor  and  the  architect  could  not  agree  upon 
the  method  for  lighting  the  eastern  apse,  the  angel 
appeared,  clad  in  im[)erial  purple,  and  commanded  the 
light  to  be  admitted  by  three  windows,  in  honour  of  the 
[foly  Trinity. 

Sixteen  years  were  spent  in  the  gathering  of  the  mate- 
rials and  the  construction  of  the  temple;  and  the  celebra- 


200  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

tion  of  its  completion,  beginning  on  Christmas  Day,  548, 
lasted  fourteen  days,  and  was  as  magnificent  as  the  re- 
sources of  that  magnificent  age  could  make  it. 

It  was  at  this  time  that  a  great  miracle  was  wrought; 
for  on  the  day  before  the  public  ceremonial,  Justinian 
commanded  that  around  the  dome,  in  gigantic  letters, 
should  be  inscribed  these  words  :  "  Justinian  dedicates  this 
Church  to  the  Glory  of  God;"  and  this  was  done.  But 
next  day,  when  seated  beside  the  high  altar,  on  his  golden 
throne,  with  the  Labarum  and  the  brazen  eagle  beside 
him,  the  Patriarch  on  a  second  throne,  and  all  the  court 
surrounding  them,  when  he  raised  his  eyes  to  the  dome 
where  his  own  name  should  have  been,  he  read  that  of 
Euphrasia,  a  name  quite  unknown  to  him.  In  great  ex- 
citement Justinian  demanded  the  meaning  of  this  from 
the  Patriarch,  who  could  explain  nothing;  and  then  the 
emperor  called  out,  "  Does  any  one  here  know  a  woman 
by  this  name  ?  "  and  a  poor  boy  who  scrubbed  the  pave- 
ment answered,  "  0  Imperial  Ciesar,  to  whom  I  dare  not 
raise  my  eyes,  there  is  a  poor  bedridden  woman  in  a  little 
house  close  by  the  walls  of  the  church  who  bears  this 
name. " 

Straightway  Justinian  despatched  his  messengers  to 
bring  the  woman  before  him ;  and  when  she  was  brought, 
he  saw  an  aged  woman  shaking  with  fear. 

"  What  know  you  of  this  inscription  ?  "  demanded  the 
emperor,  pointing  to  the  dome. 

"Nothing,  my  lord,  nothing,"  she  replied,  sinking  in  a 
swoon,  from  which  she  was  at  length  restored ;  and  then 
Justinian  cried, — 

"  But  what  have  you  done  towards  building  this  temple, 
that  your  name  displaces  mine  ?  Some  evil  power  has 
been  at  work." 

"  Great  Emperor,  I  have  done  nothing.  My  lord  mocks 
me. " 


S.    SOPHIA  AND   THE   AHMEDYEH.  201 

But  again  the  emperor  demands :  "  Have  you  neither 
thought  nor  spoken  nor  done  anything  that  should  cause 
this  miracle  ?     Reflect,  and  tell  me  all. " 

"  There  is  but  one  little  act,  your  Majesty,  and  that  so 
slight  that  I  dare  not  trouble  your  ears  with  its  recital.  It 
is  but  this  :  as  1  have  lain  upon  my  bed,  close  to  these  walls, 
I  grieved  to  hear  the  cries  and  groans  of  the  beasts  that 
carried  the  heavy  loads  of  marble,  bricks,  and  beams  up 
the  steep  hill ;  and  when  I  grew  a  little  stronger,  I  took 
my  bed  out  to  the  road,  and  scattered  its  straw  along  the 
path,  and  though  it  was  not  much,  the  straw  increased 
beneath  my  hand  until  the  whole  road  was  covered,  and 
from  that  time  the  poor  dumb  beasts  cried  out  no  more." 

When  her  story  ended,  the  emperor,  whose  eyes  were 
moist  with  tears,  rose  from  his  throne,  and,  pointing  to 
the  dome,  said  solemnly:  "The  name  of  Euphrasia  shall 
stand.  She  hath  done  more  than  I,  for  she  hath  given 
her  all."  He  then  commanded  that  she  be  taken  to 
the  Palatium,  and  cared  for  as  faithfully  as  he  himself 
could  be. 

The  accounts  we  have  of  the  richness  and  beauty  of 
Justinian's  S.  Sophia  sound  like  tales  of  the  achievements 
of  magicians  rather  than  like  the  works  of  ordinary  men. 
The  ruin  that  had  been  accomplished  already  by  repeated 
conflagrations  in  Constantinople  served  as  a  warning  to 
the  emperor,  who  determined  that  no  wood  should  be  used 
in  the  building  except  in  some  of  the  doors.  The  pave- 
ment and  all  the  marbles  glistened  l)rilliantly ;  the  walls 
were  of  splendid  mosaics.  Above  the  high  altar  towered 
colossal  representations  of  Christ,  .the  Virgin  and  Saints, 
while  four  mighty  archangels  looked  down  from  the 
spandrels  of  the  dome. 

The  altar  was  a  mine  of  precious  stones  fused  into  a 
!)f'd  (jf  gold  and  silver.  It  wtis  enclosed  in  a  Holy  of 
Holies,  sacred  from  profane  eyes,  and  entered  by  veiled 


202  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

doors.  The  clours  of  the  temple  were  of  silver  gilt,  ivory, 
amber,  and  cedar,  and  a  few  of  them  were  veneered  with 
wood  said  to  have  been  used  in  Noah's  ark.  The  trumpets 
employed  in  certain  ceremonials  were  believed  to  be  the 
same  that  overthrew  the  walls  of  Jericho,  and  many 
siniilar  treasures  were  in  the  keeping  of  this  marvellous 
temple. 

From  the  time  of  Constantine  the  Great  to  that  of 
Constantine  Palaeologus,  S.  Sophia  was  the  scene  of  the 
celebration  of  all  great  events  in  the  lives  of  its  imperial 
rulers.  Processions  and  coronations,  royal  marriages 
and  baptisms  here  had  place.  Here,  at  important  crises, 
the  emperors  received  the  Eucharist,  as  did  that  last  brave 
Constantine  on  the  morning  when  he  went  out  to  die 
before  the  advance  of  Mohammed  II. 

Here  the  Crusaders  and  the  warriors  of  many  nations 
cemented  their  alliances  and  forgot  their  differences. 
Here  was  the  ill-fated  Baldwin  crowned ;  here  Constantine 
deposited  the  Labarum,  and  Belisarius  and  Narses  hung 
up  their  trophies;  and  into  the  midst  of  this  Basilica 
Mohammed  II.  rode,  his  mace  in  hand,  and,  offering  the 
prayers  of  his  religion,  declared  this  temple  of  the  living 
God  to  be  that  of  Allah  and  his  Prophet. 

Within  the  Basilica  there  were  suites  of  apartments  for 
the  use  of  the  emperors,  and  from  it  colonnades  led  to  the 
Palatium  Sacrum,  thus  affording  a  passage  for  the  fre- 
quent processions  between  the  church  and  the  palace. 
Constantine  was  the  "  master-builder  "  of  his  age.  His 
city  was  planned  on  the  most  magnificent  scale,  and  he 
left  the  Apostolic  simplicity  far  behind.  Neither  did  he 
confine  himself  to  Christian  motives  in  art.  The  scorn 
of  S.  Paul  for  the  statues  of  the  Greeks  was  not  echoed 
by  Constantine,  who  admitted  to  the  colonnades  and  vesti' 
bules  of  S.  Sophia  the  statues  of  pagan  deities,  and  did 
not  blush  to  place  the  representations  of   emperors   and 


S.   SOPHIA  AND   THE   AHMEDYEH.  203 

empresses  beside  those  of  Jesus  Christ  and  his  Blessed 
Mother. 

We  can  but  regret  that  we  have  so  little,  perhaps  I 
should  say  that  we  have  nothing,  remaining  from  the  time 
of  Constantine,  in  the  way  of  pure  Byzantine  art,  which 
then  essentially  had  its  birth.  Then  it  was  that  mosaics, 
which  had  previously  been  used  for  pavements,  were  ele- 
vated to  the  decoration  of  altars  and  chapels,  and  the 
walls  of  various  apartments,  especially  those  set  in  a  gold 
ground.  I  know  of  no  better  examples  of  this  art  now 
remaining  than  the  famous  mosaics  of  Ravenna,  which 
belong  to  the  fifth  century. 

Important  ecclesiastical  councils  were  held  in  S.  Sophia, 
and  the  quarrels  of  many  sects  accommodated,  and  peace 
restored  only  to  be  again  disturbed  by  the  dreams  and 
practices  of  mystics  or  the  repulsive  doctrines  of  religious 
realists.  The  Greeks  seem  to  have  had  no  hesitation  at 
using  a  church  for  the  most  ardent  quarrels,  accompanied 
by  such  violence  as  belonged  to  the  circus  rather  than  to 
tlie  house  of  God,  if  only  the  dispute  concerned  a  matter 
of  religious  doctrine  or  practice.  When  the  grave  differ- 
ence arose  between  the  Greeks  and  Latins  regarding  the 
wording  of  the  Trisagion, —  "  Holy  God,  holy  mighty,  holy 
immortal,  have  mercy  upon  us,"  —  the  scene  in  S.  >So])hia 
was  most  excitipg,  and  to  the  modern  mind  disgraceful. 

The  original  form  in  Isaiah's  vision  was  "Holy,  holy, 
holy,  is  the  Lord  of  Hosts."  The  form  given  above  is 
that  which  S.  Proclus's  boy  heard  the  angels  sing  before 
he  was  taken  up  into  heaven,  in  the  presence  of  the  bishop 
and  people  of  Constantinople.  When,  therefore,  it  was 
attempted  to  add,  "who  was  crucified  for  us,"  it  was 
rejected  as  a  dangerous  blasphemy ;  and  when  two  oppos- 
ing choirs  chanted  the  Ti-isagion  at  the  same  moment  in 
the  Basilica,  one  with  and  the  other  without  this  addition, 
religious  feeling  ran  high. 


204  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

"  Not  ouly  are  the  priests  foremost  aud  most  violent  during 
the  service,  but  the  laity  also  joiu  in  hostile  ranks,  gesticulating 
as  at  the  popular  cock-fight  or  at  a  tussle  of  wild  beasts.  Cheers, 
groans,  aud  liisses  ring  round  the  sacred  walls  ;  stalwart  rutlians 
of  the  Blue  and  Green  factions  rush  down  from  the  Hippodrome 
above,  to  jostle,  swagger,  aud  scream.  The  scented  elegants 
of  the  day,  in  flowing  robes  of  silk  and  delicately  embroidered 
linen,  attended  by  their  slaves  and  pages,  look  on  and  smile. 
Sober  citizens  stand  aside,  amused  and  edified  ;  and  the  dark 
figures  of  infuriated  monks  glide  about,  cursing,  encouraging, 
and  exhorting ! 

"  As  the  voices  of  the  choirs  swell  through  the  aisles,  the  dis- 
pute waxes  hotter ;  bricks  and  fragments  of  stone  are  flung 
about  with  fatal  precision,  and,  as  the  chanting  of  the  Trisa- 
gion  continues,  the  extraordinary  and  indecent  spectacle  is  be- 
held of  wounded  men  carried  out,  streaming  with  blood,  and 
brawn3^-armed  priests  with  robes  rent  confronting  the  Imperial 
Guard."  ^ 

Deeply  as  one  must  regret  that  this  ancient  and  revered 
temple  of  Christianity  has  been  for  centuries  the  mosque 
of  the  Turk,  we  are  ever  compelled  to  blush  at  the  remem- 
brance that  it  was  robbed  of  its  treasures  and  magnificence 
by  Christians.  It  was  an  army  having  for  its  avowed 
purpose  the  preservation  of  the  sacred  places  of  the  earth 
that  despoiled  this  Basilica,  and  scattered  its  artistic 
treasures  to  the  far-away  cities,  where  th'ey  are  still  dis- 
played with  a  seeming  pride,  as  if  to  possess  the  booty  of 
these  ancient,  sacrilegious  Christian  rol)bers  was  in  some 
sense  an  honour. 

With  such  thoughts  in  mind,  as  one  raises  his  eyes  to 
the  colossal  image  of  Divine  Wisdom  which  the  Moslem 
whitewash  veils  without  concealing,  and  regards  the  four 
gigantic  cherubim  of  the  gallery,  with  their  twenty- 
four  resplendent  wings,   one  involuntarily  wishes  that  a 

1  Frances  Elliot. 


S.   SOPHIA   AND   THE   AHMEDYEH.  205 

panoramic  procession  of  all  that  has  passed  beneath  the 
eyes  of  these  glorious  representations  of  religious  faith 
could  now  wind  in  and  out  of  this  old  sanctuary;  for  to 
the  Christian,  despite  the  present  reign  of  Islamism, 
S.  Sophia  is  the  church  of  C(jnstantine  and  Justinian 
rather  than  the  mosque  of  Mohammed  11. 

In  spite  of  its  present  bareness,  imagination  conjures 
up  the  processions  of  luxurious  Greeks  Avho  escorted  and 
followed  emperors  and  empresses  as  they  came  here  to 
receive  their  crowns,  make  their  vows  or  render  thanks 
for  blessings  received. 

How  glorious  a  spectacle  it  must  have  been  when 
Justinian  and  Theodora,  side  by  side,  passed  to  this  altar! 
Can  we  not  picture  it  ?  A  path  is  kept  for  them  with 
difficulty  by  the  Dalmatian  soldiers  whose  duty  it  is  to 
keep  the  crowds  within  the  purple  silken  cords  that  have 
])een  stretched  with  that  design.  The  walls  are  hung 
with  costly  draperies  and  exquisite  garlands,  and  the 
people  find  much  on  which  to  feast  their  eyes  while  wait- 
ing for  the  sound  of  the  silver  trumpets  heralding  the 
approach  of  the  emperor. 

He  comes  wdth  regal  bearing,  splendid  in  his  imperial 
robes  and  buskins;  and  she,  called  "the  divine,"  is  daz- 
zling to  the  eye  beholding  her  as  is  the  sun,  so  covered  is 
she  with  glorious  jewels.  Her  rich  hair,  flowing  free 
upon  her  shoulders,  is  thickly  sown  with  gems,  Avhile  a 
circlet  of  enormous  single  precious  stones  is  on  her  head. 
Her  jmrple  dalmatica  is  bordered  with  jewels  and  fastened 
liy  a  clasp  of  untold  value,  while  the  pearls  that  encircle 
her  neck  in  numerous  strings  and  fall  upon  her  breast  can 
scarcely  be  conceived  of  in  these  less  sumptuous  days. 

Justinian  has  bestowed  on  her  power  and  rank  equal  to 
his  own,  ]jy  virtue  of  which  she  proudly  bears  the  sceptre 
in  one  hand,  nnd  in  the  olhei- the  globe,  overwlii'di  she  aims 
to  rule.     Behind  her,  withhuiiilde  bearing,  clinging  robes, 


206  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

and  splendid  jewels,  her  seven  ladies  walk ;  and  following 
them  a  long  line  of  glittering  Ca3sars  and  men  of  highest 
rank,  while  the  Varangians,  eunuchs,  and  lesser  officials, 
all  splendidly  attired,  complete  the  grand  procession. 

Within  the  inner  narthex  the  Patriarch,  surrounded  by 
bishops,  priests,  and  monks,  —  all  splendidly  attired, 
according  to  the  custom  of  that  splendid  age,  —  receives 
the  imperial  pair  with  solemn  greetings;  and  the  double 
procession  moves  to  the  high  altar,  where  the  representa- 
tives of  spiritual  and  earthly  power  are  each  enthroned 
beneath  resplendent  canopies,  and  screened  from  the  too 
curious  gaze  of  the  masses  by  the  jewelled  veil  with  its 
famous  fringes  of  gems. 

This  momentous  ceremonial  is  followed  by  many  others, 
abounding  in  interest  as  in  magnificence,  until  after  two 
centuries  and  a  quarter  the  infamous  Empress  Irene  — 
who  is  honoured  as  a  saint  in  the  Greek  calandar  —  comes 
in  state  to  this  high  altar,  and  here  receives  the  incense 
with  which  the  Patriarch,  himself  swinging  the  censer, 
condescends  to  surround  her. 

We  turn  from  this  depressing  spectacle,  remembering  that 
so  ambitious  was  this  fiendish  empress  that  no  sin  deterred 
her,  if  by  its  commission  her  power  could  be  assured.  She 
blinded  her  only  son  that  he  might  be  incapable  of  reign- 
ing ;  and  to  this  very  altar  came  the  five  brothers  of  her  hus- 
band, whom  she  had  blinded  or  deprived  of  their  tongues  ! 

It  was  an  unaccustomed  scene  when,  after  five  years  of 
imprisonment,  they  escaped  to  S.  Sophia,  and  in  this  great 
Basilica  filled  with  worshippers  made  their  sad  appeal. 

"  '  Countrymen  and  Christians,'  cried  Nicephorus  for  himself 
and  his  mute  brethren,  '  behold  the  sons  of  your  emperor,  if  you 
can  still  recognize  our  features  in  this  miserable  state.  A  life,  an 
imperfect  life,  is  all  tliat  the  malice  of  our  enemies  has  spared.  It 
is  now  threatened,  and  we  throw  ourselves  on  your  compassion.' "  ^ 

1  Gibbon. 


S.   SOPHIA   AND   THE   AHMEDYEH.  207 

Other  hopeless  victims  of  unscrupulous  power  fled  to 
the  shelter  of  this  altar  for  aid  and  comfort.  Here  the 
elder  Isaac  Angelus  appealed  for  safety  from  Andronicus, 
and  obtained  an  answer  to  his  prayer;  and  here  came 
that  other  Isaac  who,  after  being  blinded  and  imprisoned 
for  eleven  years,  was  liberated  by  the  chances  of  the 
Fourth  Crusade,  and  with  his  son  Alexius  reigned  again. 

This  incident  makes  a  curious  picture  in  the  life  of 
Constantinople  and  in  the  annals  of  S.  Sophia.  The 
blind  old  Isaac  was  borne  to  the  Basilica  in  a  litter, 
beside  which  Alexius  rode  in  a  high  golden  chariot,  his 
youthful,  handsome  face  lighted  up  by  the  joy  w^ith  which 
this  auspicious  day  filled  his  heart.  But  the  trivial 
Greeks  were  quite  untouched  by  this  unusual  si)cctacle  of 
filial  tenderness  in  an  imperial  youth,  and  did  not  espe- 
cially observe  the  ceremony  which  proceeded  amidst  their 
jests  and  flippant  talk;  while  in  the  women's  gallery  the 
simpering,  painted,  bejewelled  creatures  flirted  their  fans 
and  made  eyes  at  the  young  Alexius  in  a  way  that  even 
shocked  the  writers  of  that  age,  accustomed  as  they  were 
to  all  kinds  of  feminine  indecencies. 

Of  the  day  on  which  Mohammed  11.  took  possession  of 
this  temple  we  have  sjioken,  and  from  that  time  until  the 
present  reign  S.  Sophia  has  been  as  sacred  to  the  Moslems 
as  to  the  Christians  in  the  earlier  centuries.  During  the 
Ramadan,  in  the  seven  holy  nights  of  Tslnni,  Ihe  cere- 
monies in  S.  Sophia  were  among  the  most  solemn  and 
splendid  thnt  nre  known  to  the  churcli  of  the  Proj)het. 

Since  the  Sheik  Ak  Shcmsheddin,  the  companion  of 
Mohammed  II.,  first  read  the  Koran  here,  it  has  been  the 
resort  of  teachers  and 'scholars,  who  here,  near  the  miracu- 
lous window,  from  which  a  fresh  current  of  air  ever 
comes,  read,  study,  and  expound  the  words  of  their  sacred 
book. 

The  Cliristiiin,  not  IxiuL!- pi  riiiildd   to  enter  a  niosijue 


208  CONSTANTINOPLE, 

during  service,  must  ever  find  it  a  desolate,  depressing 
place.  The  vast  floor,  covered  by  matting  in  warm 
weather  and  rugs  in  cold,  stretches  out  in  a  vast,  unin- 
terrupted plane.  The  galleries  are  supported  by  double 
ranges  of  pillars,  one  hundred  and  seven  in  all,  which 
produce  a  sharp  contrast  between  the  portion  of  the  edifice 
which  they  richly  ornament  and  the  extreme  plainness  of 
the  nave. 

Where  the  splendid  altar  stood  there  is  a  slab  of  red 
marble,  above  which  hangs  a  sacred  carpet,  very  old, 
faded,  and  dirty,  but  of  inexpressible  value  to  the  Moham- 
medans, since  it  is  one  of  four  used  by  the  Prophet  in  his 
devotions.  The  faces  of  the  four  cherubim  —  the  only 
perfect  mosaics  remaining  —  are  hidden  by  golden  suns, 
as  the  representation  of  the  human  face  is  not  permitted 
by  the  Koran. 

Enormous  green  disks  inscribed  with  pious  texts  in 
great  letters  of  gold  are  fastened  on  the  walls  of  the  upper 
gallery,  and  lower  down  are  porphyry  cartouches  bearing 
the  names  of  Allah,  the  Prophet  and  his  Caliphs.  The 
Mihrah  —  the  sacred  depository  of  the  Koran  —  is  turned 
towards  Mecca,  in  which  direction  the  rush  mats  and 
praying  carpets  are  also  turned,  as  every  Mussulman  must 
pray  with  his  face  towards  that  sacred  city.  These  mats 
have  a  peculiar  appearance,  their  lines  running  diagonally 
to  the  lines  of  the  architecture  of  the  edifice.  The  pave- 
ment beneath  them  is  of  marble,  the  veining  of  which  is 
so  arranged  that  it  gives  the  appearance  of  three  streams 
flowing  through  the  edifice  in  wavy  undulations.  Tne 
minher,  or  Friday  pulpit,  is  almost  grotesque.  It  is  placed 
against  a  pillar,  and  reached  by  a  long,  narrow  staircase, 
the  balustrades  of  which  are  in  an  open  carving  as  delicate 
PS  lace.  Two  small  flags  hang  on  each  side  to  symbolize 
the  victories  of  the  Moslems  over  both  Jews  and  Chi-istians, 
thus  settino;  aside  both  the  Old  and  New  Testaments.     On 


S.   SOPHIA  AND  THE  AHMEDYEH.  209 

every  Friday  the  Kiatib  mounts  the  pulpit,  with  the  Koran 
in  one  hand  and  a  wooden  sword  in  the  other,  as  is  done 
in  every  conquered  mosque.  The  Sultan's  pew  is  a 
curious  little  structure  raised  on  pillars,  from  which  he 
can  see,  while  he  is  invisible  to  others.  Cords  from 
which  silken  tassels,  roc's  eggs,  crystal  lustres,  and  horse- 
tails are  suspended,  hang  from  the  dome,  and  sustain 
hoops  of  wire  on  which  lamps  are  fastened.  A  goodly 
number  of  little  desks  are  scattered  about,  shaped  like  a 
capital  X,  inlaid  with  pearl  and  copper,  and  used  for 
holding  the  Koran  and  sacred  manuscripts. 

No  ornaments  save  the  inscriptions  are  permitted,  as 
the  Mosloin  believes  that  the  Deity  fills  the  temple,  in 
accord  with  the  sentence  in  the  top  of  the  dome,  which 
was  pronounced  by  Mohammed  II.,  as  he  sat  on  his  horse 
before  the  high  altar  on  the  day  of  his  triumph,  "  Allah  is 
the  light  of  heaven  and  of  earth."  This  is  inscribed  in 
white  letters  on  a  black  ground,  some  of  them  being 
thirty -six  feet  long. 

Such  are  the  superficial  observations  that  one  makes 
when  first  he  enters  this  wonderful  temple.  Later  he 
will  realize  that  the  effect  of  the  nave  is  extremely  grand 
and  impressive.     De  Amicis  speaks  well  when  he  says: 

"  The  eye  embraces  an  enormous  vault,  a  bold  architecture  of 
half-domes  that  seem  suspended  in  the  air,  measureless  pilas- 
ters, gigantic  arches,  colossal  columns,  galleries,  tribunes, 
porticoes,  upon  all  of  which  a  flood  of  light  descends,  from  a 
thousand  (?)  great  windows  ;  there  is  a  something  rather  scenic 
and  princely  than  sacred  ;  an  ostentation  of  grandeur  and  force, 
an  air  of  mundane  elegance,  a  confusion  of  classic,  barbarous, 
capricious,  presumptuous,  and  magnificent ;  a  grand  harmony, 
in  which,  with  the  tiiundering  and  formidable  note  of  the  Cyclo- 
pean arches  and  pilasters,  there  are  mingled  the  gentle  and  low 
strain  of  the  Oriental  canticle,  the  clamorous  music  of  the  feasts 
of  .lustiniiui  iind  Ileraclitus,  echoes  of  pagan  songs,  faint  voices 

14 


210  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

of  an  effeminate  and  worn-ont  race,  and  distant  cries  of  Goth 
and  Vandal ;  there  is  a  faded  majesty,  a  sinister  nudity,  a  pro- 
found peace  ;  ah  idea  of  the  basilica  of  St.  Peter  contracted  and 
toned  down,  and  of  St.  Mark's  grosser,  larger,  and  deserted  ;  a 
mixture  heretofore  unseen  of  temple,  church,  and  mosque,  of 
severity  and  puerility,  of  ancient  things  and  modern,  of  ill- 
assorted  colours,  and  odd,  bizarre  ornaments  ;  a  spectacle,  in 
short,  which  at  once  astonishes  and  displeases,  and  leaves  the 
mind  for  a  moment  uncertain,  seeking  the  right  word  to  express 
and  affirm  its  thought." 

This  splendid  nave,  despite  its  size,  is  but  a  small 
portion  of  the  mosque.  Temples  might  be  made  within 
this  temple ;  the  porticoes  which  support  the  lateral  gal- 
leries are  fit  for  basilicas  themselves.  Their  columns, 
architraves,  and  pilasters  are  huge,  and,  looking  from 
them,  into  the  nave  between  the  columns  of  the  temple  of 
Ephesus,  one  has  the  sensation  of  being  in  an  edifice  quite 
independent  of  the  other;  and  in  many  portions  of  the 
mosque  this  sensation  is  repeated,  notably  when  in  the 
enormous  galleries,  each  one  of  which  could  hold  thousands 
3f  people. 

From  these  galleries,  looking  over  the  balustrade,  one 
gets  a  glorious  view  of  S.  Sophia.  From  here  it  is  simply 
gigantic.  The  arches,  pilasters,  and  all  other  architec- 
tural features  are  enormous.  Everything  that  is  essen- 
tially a  part  of  the  mosque  is  magnified,  while  everything 
that  has  been  placed  in  it  is  dwarfed  into  utter  insignifi- 
cance. One  hears  the  low  murmur  of  the  Moslems  who 
are  ever  reading  the  Koran  or  reciting  verses,  and  sees  in 
that  far-away  nave  a  few  men  or  boys  moving  silently 
about,  seeming  to  be  in  another  sphere  from  that  of  the 
lofty  gallery;  and  there  is  a  mysterious  efPect,  a  sort  of 
other-worldlincss,  as  if  one  had  passed  into  another  con- 
dition of  spirit  while  mounting  that  curiously  ascending 
spiral  way  which  led  one  hither. 


S.   SOPHIA   AND  THE   AHMEDYEH.  211 

One  may  study  various  specialties  in  this  mosque,  of 
which  that  of  the  wonderful  columns  is  most  interesting. 
Their  differences  are  made  so  clear  by  their  contact,  and 
their  beauties  are  thus  so  pronounced.  To  learn  where 
each  originally  belonged  is  no  small  task,  and  is  a  study 
quite  worth  while.  Probably  in  no  other  one  collection 
could  the  peculiarities  and  differences  of  these  exquisite 
crystalline  limestones  be  so  readily  observed.  In  these 
columns,  of  a  variety  of  sizes,  and  in  the  slabs  of  the 
ancient  lining  of  the  walls  which  still  remain,  there  are 
specimens  of  all  the  rarest  and  richest  marbles  of  the 
world.  To  all  this  variety  of  veining  and  of  colour  are 
added  innumerable  specimens  of  styles  in  decoration.  In 
the  capitals,  friezes,  cornices,  pedestals,  balustrades,  and 
even  in  the  shafts  of  columns  are  the  most  exquisite  and 
the  most  fantastic  designs.  Animals,  foliage,  crosses, 
rosettes,  and  chimeras,  with  many  other  figures,  are 
mingled  in  a  manner  that  shocks  our  artistic  sense,  but 
has  an  inexpressible  fascination  for  our  eyes. 

As  all  the  world  knows,  the  great  wonder  of  S.  Sophia 
is  the  dome,  which  one  must  feel  powerless  to  describe 
sufficiently.  Madame  de  Stael's  saying,  that  the  dome  of 
S.  Peter's  is  like  an  aliyss  suspended  over  one,  must  recur 
to  all  who  stand  beneath  that  of  S.  Sophia.  It  is  so  large 
that  wherever  you  stand  you  seem  to  be  under  il,'and  its 
forty  encircling  windows  afford  such  light  as  illuminates 
every  portion  of  the  mosque.  One  is  not  surprised  that 
flie  people  of  the  sixth  century  believed  it  to  have  been 
built  by  a  miracle;  which  impression  was  deepened  by  the 
constant  presence  of  the  emperor  and  the  continual  chant- 
ing of  the  priests,  while  the  fairy-weighted  bricks  from 
Rhodes  —  each  inscribed  with  holy  words  —  were  skilfully 
laid,  and,  so  to  speak,  cemented  at  every  twelfth  row  with 
sacred  relics. 

East  and  west  of  the  u'reat  dome  arc  semi-domes,  and 


212  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

each  of  these  is  cut  into  by  smaller  domes,  making  seven 
domes  altogether. 

"As  it  is,  the  eye  wanders  upwards  from  the  large  arcades 
of  the  ground  floor  to  the  smaller  arches  of  the  galleries,  and 
thence  to  the  smaller  semi-domes.  These  lead  tiie  eye  on  to 
the  larger,  and  the  whole  culminates  in  the  great  central  roof. 
Nothing,  probably,  so  artistic  has  been  done  on  the  same  scale 
before  or  since.  In  these  arrangements  S.  Sophia  seems  to 
stand  alone."  ^ 

The  same  celebrated  author  says :  — 

"  If,  however,  the  proportions  of  the  church  are  admirable, 
the  details  are  equally  so.  .  .  .  S.  Sophia  is  so  essentially  differ- 
ent from  the  greater  number  of  churches  that  it  is  extremely 
difficult  to  institute  a  comparison  between  them.  With  regard 
to  external  effect,  Gothic  cathedrals  generally  excel  it ;  but 
whether  by  accident  or  by  the  inherent  necessity  of  the  style,  is 
by  no  means  clear.  In  so  far  as  the  interior  is  concerned,  no 
Gothic  architect  ever  rose  to  the  conception  of  a  hall  one  hun- 
dred feet  wide,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  and  one 
hundred  and  eighty  feet  high,  and  none  ever  disposed  each  part 
more  artistically  to  obtain  the  effect  he  desired  to  produce.  .  .  . 
In  fact,  turn  it  as  we  will,  and  compare  it  as  we  may  with  any 
other  buildings  of  its  class,  the  verdict  seems  inevitable  that  S. 
Sophia —  iuternally  at  least,  for  we  may  omit  the  consideration 
of  the  exterior,  as  unfinished  —  is  the  most  perfect  and  most 
beautiful  church  which  has  yet  been  erected  by  any  Christian 
people." 

No  one  visit  to  S,  Sophia  can  even  suffice  as  an  intro- 
duction to  its  acquaintance.  Like  S.  Peter's  and  San 
Marco  or  Westminster  Abbey ;  like  the  Halls  of  Karnak, 
the  Jain  temples  and  the  rock-cut  temples  of  India,  — like 
everything,  in  fact,  which  is  great  and  grand  and  uplift- 
ing, and  has  originated  in  a  sincere  human  desire  to  express 

1  FergusBon. 


S.   SOPHIA  AND   THE   AHMEDYEH.  213 

the  best  of  man  and  his  highest  aspirations  towards  his 
God,  —  it  must  be  frequently  visited  and  studied  with 
reverence,  even  with  love,  before  the  heights  and  depths 
of  its  beauty  and  glory  can  be  discerned. 

We  have  spoken  in  sufficient  detail  of  the  day  when 
Mohammed  and  his  Janissaries  found  the  inhabitants  of 
Constantinople  gathered  in  S.  Sophia,  confidently  await- 
ing a  miraculous  deliverance  from  the  terrible  Moslem. 
But  we  have  not  recited  a  pretty  legend  connected  with 
that  scene  which  says  that  as  the  people  waited  breath- 
lessly for  the  angel  who  was  to  save  them,  as  they  listened 
to  the  blows  of  the  battle-axes  on  the  brazen  gates,  and  as 
the  savage  hordes  poured  in  to  desecrate  the  altars,  to 
snatch  the  sacred  vessels  from  their  accustomed  places, 
and  to  inaugurate  an  orgy,  in  which  the  cries  of  women 
and  children  being  inhumanly  butchered,  or  bound  and 
carried  into  slavery,  mingled  with  the  screech  of  trumpets 
and  the  roll  of  drums,  — that  all  this  while  an  aged  priest 
was  absorbed  in  saying  Mass  at  a  distant  altar,  and  was 
only  brought  to  a  consciousness  of  what  was  happening 
around  him  by  the  agonizing  cries  of  his  people  and  the 
noise  of  the  horses'  shoes  upon  the  marble  pavement. 

Perfectly  calm  in  the  midst  of  the  frightful  scene,  he 
carefully  bore  the  Host  info  an  internal  nave;  but  a 
number  of  soldici-s  pui-sued  him,  and  had  raised  their 
scimitars  above  him,  when  the  solid  wall  opened  and 
closed  again. 

The  priest  had  disap[)eared,  and  the  sacred  wafer  was 
saved  from  desecration,  but  no  line  or  mark  was  left 
behind  him.  The  wall  was  a  perfect  whole,  and  the 
astounded  Mussulmans  could  find  nothing.  We  are  told 
that  faint  sounds  are  heard  at  times  through  the  thickness 
of  the  wall,  which  proves  that  the  saintly  priest  still 
lives,  still  chants  the  liturgy,  and  waits  the  time  when 
S.  Sophia  shall  be  restored  to  the  Christian  Church,  and 


214  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

the  Willi  o])ening  will  set  him  free  to  finish  at  the  altar 
the  Mass  begun  in  1453. 

We  have  already  spoken  of  several  important  mosques 
in  connection  with  the  lives  of  their  builders;  and  as  the 
interior  of  one  mosque  closely  resembles  another,  there  is 
little  to  add  concerning  the  mosques  of  Constantinople, 
which  are  a  multitude  in  number. 

The  mosque  of  Sultan  Ahmed  I.  is  peculiar  on  account 
of  its  six  minarets,  which  caused  some  trouble  to  its 
builder.  Only  the  Kaaba  at  Mecca  had  this  number,  and 
the  Imam  declared  that  Ahmed  was  committing  a  sacrilege 
in  erecting  another  mosque  to  equal  that  of  the  sacred 
city.  Consequently  the  work  was  suspended  until  Ahmed, 
who  was  a  man  of  resources,  could  have  a  seventh  minaret 
added  to  the  Kaaba,  when  he  was  permitted  to  finish  his 
own  mosque  according  to  his  original  design. 

A  second  peculiarity  of  its  construction  is  what  would 
elsewhere  be  called  a  cloister,  which  surrounds  a  portion 
of  the  court,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  a  fountain  of  an 
extremely  ornamental  style,  covered  with  a  sort  of  gilded 
cage. 

Before  the  reign  of  Abdul  Hamid,  when  great  cere- 
monies were  in  order,  the  Ahmedyeh  was  the  mosque  of 
the  State,  as  S.  Sophia  was  that  of  the  court.  It  was 
from  the  pulpit  of  this  mosque  that  the  decree  which  put 
an  end  to  the  power  of  the  Janissaries  was  read,  and  on 
account  of  its  open  surroundings  it  was  favourable  for 
processions  and  impressive  ceremonies.  Here  the  two 
chief  festivals  of  the  Bairam  had  place,  as  well  as  that 
instituted  in  1858  by  Murad  III.,  called  the  Mirlood, 
which  celebrated  the  birthday  of  the  Prophet.  Other 
festive  ceremonies  occurred  here  which  brought  out  the 
greatest  splendours  of  the  court  and  State,  and  were  cele- 
brated with  true  Oriental  magnificence  on  this  spot, 
formerly  a  part  of  the  Hippodrome,  where  from  the  days 


S.   SOPHIA  AND   THE   AHMEDYEH.  215 

of  Constantine  the  Great  many  imposing  spectacles  had 
been  witnessed. 

The  Ahmedyeh  is  comparatively  modern,  dating  only 
from  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century.  It  was 
an  enormously  expensive  mosque,  and  has  been  richly 
endowed,  not  only  by  its  founder,  but  by  other  rich  and 
pious  Moslems,  both  with  money  and  with  rare  and 
precious  objects  for  its  decoration. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

ANTIQUITIES   OF   CONSTANTINOPLE. 

TO  speak  of  the  walls  of  Constantinople  to-day,  or  of 
making  their  circuit,  in  the  sense  which  that  phrase 
carried  thirty  years  ago,  —  when  I  first  saw  them,  —  is  not 
possible.  So  large  a  portion  of  them  has  disappeared, 
and  so  constantly  crumbling  are  they,  that  it  is  now  best 
to  speak  only  of  certain  features  which  may  still  be  iden- 
tified and  are  of  interest.  This  is  also  true  of  other 
antiquities  in  Constantinople.  Probably  fragments  of 
ancient  Byzantium  still  exist  here  and  there,  —  bits  that 
have  escaped  the  vandalism  of  man  and  the  wreck  of 
time;  but  it  is  doubtful  if  there  is  any  authority  on 
these  subjects  upon  which  we  can  rely  with  absolute 
confidence. 

The  walls  of  Constantinople  once  extended  entirely 
around  the  triangle  of  Stamboul,  and  were  pierced  by 
twenty-eight  gates.  On  the  side  of  the  Golden  Horn  one 
may  say,  speaking  generally,  that  walls  have  disappeared, 
and  gates  are  replaced  by  numerous  landing-stages  for 
the  numberless  steamers,  to  and  from  which  the  pas- 
sengers quietly  pass,  with  such  an  every-day  sort  of  air 
that  it  is  difficult  to  realize  that  such  obstacles  ever 
existed  as  the  brave  old  Dandolo  was  forced  to  overcome 
before  he  could  effect  an  entrance  to  this  famous  city. 

On  the  Sea  of  Marmora  there  are  many  ruins  of  walls, 
gates,  and  towers  remaining;  but  they  are  inferior  in 
colour,  and  lack  the  picturcsqueness  which  the  traveller 
demands  of  the  relics  of  that  Byzantium  of  which  he  has 
read  the  most  heroic  and  poetic  descriptions.     And  alas! 


ANTIQUITIES   OF   CONSTANTINOPLE.  217 

commonplace  ship-buildiug  goes  on  near  Seraglio  Point, 
and  the  shore  is  lined  with  wooden  sheds  and  other  useful 
buildings,  replacing  the  graceful,  glittering  kiosks  which 
our  fancy  has  been  accustomed  to  picture  here.  Truly  the 
progressive  civilization  of  our  day  has  a  cruel  habit  of 
shivering  to  atoms  our  cherished  ideals  of  distant  places 
of  the  earth ;  and  one  discerns  no  difference  in  the  sound 
of  the  hammers  on  the  ringing  metal  at  Stamboul  from 
that  heard  at  East  Boston  and  elsewhere  in  cities  that 
were  never  walled,  that  have  endured  no  sieges  and  wit- 
nessed no  triumphs.  How  rapidly  the  cities  of  the  world 
are  becoming  cosmopolitan,  if  one  might  apply  that  word 
in  such  a  sense;  for  to  one  who  has  watched  the  similariz- 
ing  process  of  the  last  half-century,  it  sometimes  seems 
that,  except  for  differences  in  language,  the  large  cities 
of  the  world  would  not  be  essentially  disturbed  if  they 
changed  places,  and  Stamboul,  for  example,  were  set 
down  between  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers,  and  the 
Gothamites  woke  up  to  find  themselves  on  the  borders  of 
the  Golden  Horn. 

Of  the  walls  of  Constantinople,  however,  sufficient  still 
remains  to  give  a  just  idea  of  their  ancient  grandeur.  In 
height,  strength,  and  picturesqueness  they  were  unsur- 
passed; and  even  to-day  there  are  portions  —  tottering,  to 
be  sure,  but  held  together  by  strong,  clinging  vines  — 
which  prove  that  language  could  not  exaggerate  their 
original  impressiveness. 

On  the  land  side  the  triple  wall  still  stands  in  many 
places.  Iluilt  by  Theodosius  the  Younger,  who  enclosed 
a  much  larger  tcri'itory  than  Constantino  the  Great  had 
done,  they  were  sircngthcncd  by  Heraclius,  who  extended 
them  aromid  the  quarter  of  the  Blachernai.  Later  emperors 
also  repaired  them,  and  they  extended  from  the  Castle  of 
the  Seven  Towers  on  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  on  and  on,  four 
or  more  miles. 


218  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

These  walls,  rising  and  descending  with  the  surface 
lines,  topped  with  frequent  towers,  both  round  and  square, 
present  a  most  remarkable  appearance;  and  the  more 
familiar  one  becomes  with  them  the  more  grand  and 
wonderful  do  they  seem.  As  with  the  first  sight  of 
whatever  is  grand  and  great  in  Nature  or  in  human 
achievement,  the  mind  is  occupied  in  grasping,  not 
only  the  object  itself,  but  its  surroundings,  its  uses, 
and  a  variety  of  similar  subjects ;  and  not  until  we  are 
familiar  with  these  do  we  abandon  ourselves  to  experi- 
ence the  maximum  effect  which  it  is  able  to  produce  on 
us  personally. 

The  restorations  made  since  the  Mohammedan  conquest 
are  insignificant,  and,  save  for  the  ruin  resulting  from 
natural  causes,  the  walls  on  the  land  side  must  appear 
much  the  same  as  on  that  day  in  May,  1453,  when 
Mohammed  II.  entered  by  the  Adrianople  Gate,  to  take 
possession  of  a  Christian  capital  in  the  name  of  Allah 
and  his  Prophet. 

One  may  still  discern  the  breaches  made  by  the  monster 
gun  of  Orbano,  and  may  easily  fancy  that  he  can  point 
out  the  spots  where  the  firing  was  fiercest  and  most  effec- 
tive. There  are  numberless  marks  made  by  rams  and 
catapults  on  walls  still  standing,  and  gaping  openings 
that  were  doubtless  effected  by  exploding  mines. 

The  walls  were  pierced  by  numerous  small  apertures 
from  which  arrows,  stones,  and  Greek  fire  could  be 
showered  upon  attacking  foes ;  and  all  these  colossal 
defences  —  the  bricks  and  stones  of  which  are  varied  in 
tints  of  deep  and  solemn  tones,  with  here  and  there  a  bit 
of '  golden  yellow  or  a  splash  of  red  —  are  shrouded  in 
luxurious,  verdant  curtains  hanging  over  the  bastions 
between  the  broken,  riddled  towers,  while  everywhere  the 
friendly  vines  push  in  and  out  of  every  crevice.  They 
remind  one  of  funereal  decorations  —  though  on  a  gigantic 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  219 

scale  —  softly  covering  these  vestiges  of  a  glory  long  since 
departed,  as  we  are  wont  to  cover,  with  the  colour  sym- 
bolic of  hope,  the  monuments  which  mark  the  graves  of 
human  struggles  and  unfulfilled  ambitions. 

Wandering  up  and  down  before  these  remnants  of  the 
early  centuries,  one  forgets  one's  own  time,  and  lives  for  a 
brief  moment  in  that  when  Christian  emperors  enthusi- 
astically dreamed  that  this,  their  city,  should  be  the  New 
Rome  in  every  sense,  — the  chief  capital  of  the  world  and 
the  chief  home  of  Christianity.  As  one  turns  away, 
remembering  the  degradation  and  disintegration  that  is 
going  on  under  the  rule  of  Islam,  one  fervently  exclaims, 
"  How  long,  0  Lord,  how  long !  " 

The  gate  called  by  the  Turks  Egri-Kapou  —  the  crooked 
gate  —  was  known  as  the  Charsian,  and  is  famous  as 
that  through  which  Justinian  entered  Constantinople  in 
triumph.  Here  he  was  met  by  the  Senate,  and  proceeded 
to  the  church  of  the  Holy  Apostles.  Here,  too,  Alexius 
Comnenus  passed  when  he  came  to  take  his  place  upon 
the  throne.  Near  by  is  the  Tower  of  Theophilus,  which 
was  enclosed  in  the  wall  of  Heraclius  about  640.  Here 
also  are  the  towers  of  Isaac  Comnenus  and  of  Amena. 
There  is  little  doubt  that  Isaac  Comnenus  lived  in  the 
towers  which  he  built.  They  are  impressive  and  majestic 
in  outline  even  now,  more  than  seven  centuries  since  their 
erection. 

The  Tower  of  Amena,  so  often  mentioned  in  Byzantine 
annals,  is  still  u))right.  In  this  prison  many  royal  cap- 
tives suffered  horril)le  tortures,  frequently  being  blinded 
and  uncared  fui-.  Tlio  story  of  Andronicus  in  connoetion 
with  (his  tower  is  a  sinister  romance.  He  was  one  of  the 
Comneni,  to  whom  allusion  was  made  in  the  first  part  of 
this  book.  Possessed  of  great  personal  beauty,  by  tem- 
perate living,  he  preserved  his  health  and  vigour  to  old 
age.     After  many  questionable  and  some  absolutely  trea- 


220  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

sonable  acts,  he  was  imprisoned  in  the  Amena,  and  there 
spent  more  than  twelve  years. 

He  one  day  perceived  some  broken  bricks  in  a  corner 
of  his  prison,  and  removing  them  found  a  passage,  into 
which  he  retreated,  and,  having  taken  his  provisions  witli 
him,  closed  the  aperture,  replacing  the  bricks  as  they  had 
been  before  he  removed  them.  His  guards,  finding  his 
prison  empty,  reported  his  escape;  and  his  wife,  being 
suspected  of  his  release,  was  herself  confined  in  her  hus- 
band's prison.  Andronicus  revealed  himself  to  her;  and 
soon  after,  with  her  aid,  he  did  escape,  but  was  retaken 
and  again  imprisoned,  loaded  with  a  double  chain.  At 
last  he  again  obtained  his  freedom,  and  began  his  years 
of  wandering  in  the  East,  where  his  adventures  were  so 
remarkable  as  to  be  almost  beyond  belief.  He  finally 
returned  to  seat  himself  upon  the  throne  of  Constanti- 
nople by  a  series  of  frightful  crimes,  and  to  be  executed 
in  the  most  brutal  manner  in  less  than  two  years  after 
his  accession. 

It  was  in  the  prisons  of  the  Amena  that  the  young 
Alexius  found  his  blinded  father  when  he  came  to  his 
rescue,  escorted  by  the  thousands  of  the  Fourth  Crusade; 
and  during  the  imperial  residence  at  the  Palace  of  the 
Blachernse  —  now  entirely  destroyed  —  the  Amena  was  the 
scene  of  many  hasty  tragedies  as  well  as  of  the  lingering 
horrors  to  which  we  have  referred. 

The  Charsian  Gate  is  now  almost  buried  beneath  piles 
of  stones,  but  its  archway  and  opening  can  still  be 
traced.  The  Greek  historian  Ducas  mentions  this  gate 
in  connection  with  the  fall  of  the  city  in  1453:  — 

"While  all  the  Greeks,  headed  by  the  Emperor  Constantine, 
were  vigorously  fighting  to  repulse  the  Turks,  and  turn  the  as- 
sault from  a  part  of  the  walls  wliich  had  crumbled  under  tne 
war-engines,  the  will  of  God  led  the  enemy  to  this  gate, — 
generally  closed,  but  opened  by  the  emperor  for  the  convenient 


ANTIQUITIES   OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  221 

passage  of  his  men, —  at  ouce  discovered  by  the  Turks,  who,  to 
the  number  of  fifty,  rushed  in  and,  scaling  the  walls,  planted 
the  green  flagon  the  nearest  tower,  and  with  loud  cries  shouted  : 
'  Victory  !  the  city  is  ours  !  '  " 

In  the  eleventh  century  the  Palace  of  Blachernae  was  a 
most  luxuriant  and  magnificent  imperial  residence.  The 
Crusaders,  with  Peter  the  Hermit  and  with  Godfrey  de 
Bouillon,  had  trodden  its  halls,  and  there  beheld  such 
splendour  as  they  had  not  dreaped  of  in  their  Western 
capitals.  It  was  composed  of  many  parts,  erected  at 
different  periods,  which,  on  its  northeastern  front,  had  a 
certain  harmony  of  design.  Its  domes  and  variously 
shaped  roofs  gave  an  irregularity  to  its  sky-line  which 
added  greatly  to  its  i)ictnresqucness.  Its  highest  portion, 
the  Tower  of  Isaac  Angelus,  was  the  most  prominent 
feature  of  the  city  from  any  distant  point  of  observation, 
and  must  have  afforded  a  magnificent  outlook  to  its  occu- 
pant. Let  us  hope  that,  when  blinded  and  imprisoned,  the 
memory  of  these  scenes  beguiled  some  weary  hours  of 
their  sharpest  regrets. 

"  'T  is  better  to  liave  loved  and  lost, 
Tlian  never  to  have  loved  at  all." 

The  Greeks  called  the  Blacherna^  the  "Very  High 
Residence,"  and  from  its  site  one  still  has  the  wonderful 
outlook  which  centuries  have  not  rol)be(l  of  its  beauties. 
Of  the  Tower  of  Isaac,  Lew  Wallace,  in  the  "Prince  of 
India,"  says  :  — ■ 

"If  he  were  weary  of  tlie  city,  there  was  the  IMarniora,  always 
ready  to  reiterate  the  hues  of  the  sky,  and  in  it  the  Isles  of  ^the 
Princes,  their  verdurous  shades  permeated  with  dreamful  wel- 
come to  the  pleasure-seeker  as  well  as  the  monk  ;  or  if  he  longed 
for  a  further  flight,  old  Asia  made  haste  witli  enticing  invitation 
to  some  of  the  villas  strewing  its  littoral  behind  the  Isles  ;  and 
youder,  to  the  eye  fainting  in  the  distance,  scai'ce  more  than  a 


222  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

pale  blue  boundary  cloud,  the  mountain  beloved  by  the  gods, 
whither  they  were  wont  to  assemble  at  such  times  as  they  wished 
to  learn  how  it  fai'ed  with  Ilium  and  the  sons  of  Priam,  or  to 
enliven  their  immortality  with  loud  symposia.  .  .  .  Sometimes, 
however,  the  superlative  magnate  preferred  the  balcony  on  the 
western  side  of  the  tower.  There  he  could  sit  in  the  shade, 
cooled  by  waftures  from  a  wide  campania  southward,  or,  peer- 
ing over  the  balustrade,  watch  the  peasantry  flitting  through 
the  breaks  of  the  Kosmidion,  now  the  purlieus  of  J^youb." 

Near  the  site  of  the  Blachernoe  is  a  garden,  in  which  is 
a  small  chapel,  on  the  site  of  the  ancient  sanctuary  of  the 
Virgin  of  the  Blachernas.  In  this  imperial  chapel  the 
emperor  and  his  family,  as  well  as  the  court,  were  wont 
to  witness  the  splendid  ceremonies  of  their  Church ;  and 
here  at  certain  seasons  vigils  were  kept,  when  the  emperor 
upon  his  knees,  alone  within  the  chapel,  passed  the  night 
in  prayer,  while  thousands  of  priests,  monks,  dervishes, 
and  people  knelt  in  the  court,  upon  the  terraces,  and  in 
the  surroundings  of  the  chapel,  all  telling  their  beads 
and  repeating  their  prayers. 

The  sacred  relics  in  this  chapel  were  of  inestimable  and 
miraculous  importance;  for  not  only  was  the  Holy  Cross 
here  which  Heraclius  had  brought  from  Jerusalem,  but  it 
was  also  the  repository  of  the  Himation  and  the  Panagia 
Blachernitissa,  or  All  Holy  Banner  of  the  Image  of  the 
Virgin, 

The  Himation,  or  Robe  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  was 
brought  to  Constantinople  from  Jerusalem  in  the  fifth 
century,  and  was  believed  to  be  weapon-proof  and  totally 
indestructible.  With  it  the  Virgin  protected  Byzantium. 
Ancient  coins  represented  the  Blessed  Mother  clothed  in 
this  miraculous  garment,  standing  upon  the  altar,  and 
with  uplifted  hands  imploring  her  Son  to  protect  her 
chosen  city. 

The    Panagia,    or    Sacred    Banner,    in   the    reign    of 


ANTIQUITIES   ()F  CONSTANTINOPLE.  223 

Heraclius,  had  been  borne  along  the  walls,  and  had  struck 
terror  into  the  hearts  of  the  besieging  Avars  and  Persians, 
while  from  every  loophole  of  the  walls  a  shower  of  arrows 
fell  among  the  infidels,  carrying  death  to  hundreds  in 
their  ranks.  The  Pagans  fled  as  before  a  miracle,  and 
their  leaders  declared  that  they  had  seen  a  woman  in 
shining  garments  on  the  walls,  whose  gaze  no  man  could 
meet  and  live. 

When  Michael  Paleeologus  returned  to  Constantinople 
to  put  an  end  to  the  Latin  occupation,  he  dismounted  at 
the  Golden  Gate,  and  knelt  before  the  image  of  the  Virgin 
of  the  Blachernae,  which  was  then  borne  before  him  to 
the  church  of  S.  Sophia,  thus  signifying  that  the  emperor 
was  conducted  by  the  Holy  Mother  of  God.  But,  alas ! 
the  time  came  when  even  this  Divine  Patroness  failed  to 
protect  her  children.  She  did  not  save  them  from 
Mohammed  II.,  though  she  was  carried  in  processior_, 
and  entreated  with  prayers  and  tears.  And  yet,  so  great 
was  their  faith  in  her  love  and  power  that  even  after  the 
city  had  fallen,  thousands  gathered  in  the  church  of  the 
Divine  Wisdom  confidently  reposed  on  the  deliverance 
that  had  been  predicted. 

"  The  infidels  will  enter  the  city  ;  but  the  instant  they  arrive 
at  the  column  of  Coustautine  the  Great,  an  augel  will  descend 
from  heaven,  and  put  a  sword  in  the  hands  of  a  man  of  low 
estate  seated  at  the  foot  of  the  column,  and  order  him  to  avenge 
the  people  of  God  with  it.  Overcome  by  sudden  terror,  the 
Turks  will  then  take  to  flight,  and  be  driven  not  only  from  the 
city,  but  to  the  frontier  of  Persia."  ^ 

It  adds  an  element  of  infinite  pathos  to  that  scene  in 
Ilagia  Sofia,  when  the  brazen  gates  were  beaten  down  and 
the  Turks  rushed  in,  to  remember  that  not  only  were  the 
families  gathered  there  torn  from  each  other  forever  and 

1  Von  Hammer. 


224  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

led  away  to  death  and  slavery,  but  the  Virgin,  on  whom 
they  had  rested  all  their  hopes,  had  also  deserted  them, 
and  the  faith  that  had  upheld  them  when  all  else  failed 
had  proved  a  broken  reed. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Blachernaj  covered  a  spring  of  pure 
water,  and  in  its  crypt,  three  times  each  year,  the 
empress,  wearing  the  lentium,  or  golden  shirt,  l)athed  in 
this  sacred  water,  the  pious  act  being  accompanied  by  the 
prescribed  ceremonies  and  prayers. 

The  Holy  of  Holies  in  which  the  sacred  objects  were 
deposited  was  of  pure  gold  set  with  precious  stones.  The 
emperors  alone  could  enter  here ;  and  each  of  them  had 
added  something  to  its  treasures,  striving  to  obtain  for 
the  Virgin  of  the  Blachcrnoe  the  most  holy  relics  in 
existence.  Thus  was  the  veneration  for  the  chapel 
increased,  when  to  the  Himation  and  Panagia  were  added 
the  nails  and  bits  of  the  True  Cross,  skulls  and  other 
bones  of  Saints  and  Apostles,  priceless  manuscripts,  and 
numberless  exquisite  reliquaries  in  silver  and  gold  en- 
crusted with  gems  of  untold  price,  while  precious  stones 
unset  and  of  great  value  were  gathered  in  this  treasury  of 
the  Holy  Queen  of  Heaven,  as  in  the  vaults  of  earthly 
potentates. 

Surely  the  Virgin  of  the  Blachernoe  was  most  powerful, 
and  long  processions  of  the  great  ones  of  the  earth  had 
sought  her  shrine.  Clothed  in  regal  splendour  and  bear- 
ing gifts,  they  bowed  before  her  altar  and  sought  her  aid; 
for  could  she  not  miraculously  deliver  them  from  evil, 
and  had  not  her  Himation,  when  dipped  in  the  sea,  aroused 
a  tempest  before  which  the  Muscovite  enemies  had  fled 
and  been  engulfed  in  its  waves  ? 

Leaving  the  Charsian  Gate,  and  following  the  walls 
on  the  land  side,  the  Gate  of  Adrianople  next  presents 
itself.  This  was  the  principal  scene  of  the  fierce  fight 
between  Heraclius   and  the  Avari  in  625.     It  is   a   fine 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  225 

square  gate  with  a  lofty  arch  flanked  by  two  octagonal 
towers.  It  was  valiantly  defended  against  Mohammed 
II.,  who  entered  here  after  the  conquest,  which  has  since 
caused  it  to  be  used  for  the  triumphal  processions  of  the 
Moslems. 

The  Palace  of  Belisarius  —  sometimes  called  the  Heb- 
domon  —  is  near  the  Adrianople  Gate.  It  was  built  and 
inhabited  by  Constantine  the  Great,  and  was  loaned  by 
Justinian  to  his  renowned  general.  In  view  of  the  small 
number  of  ancient  edifices  remaining  in  Constantinople, 
this  palace  is  of  great  interest.  On  a  lofty  hill,  in  the 
midst  of  a  squalid  district  of  Stamboul,  stripped  of  its 
outer  coverings,  it  is  a  melancholy  spectacle.  Still  its 
dignity  is  most  impressive,  standing  firmly  as  it  does 
upon  its  colossal  foundations,  towering  aloft  in  all  its 
hideous  nakedness,  — •  an  eternal  reproach  to  those 
Latins  who  were  as  merciless  in  their  destruction  of 
the  city  of  the  Bosphorus  as,  perliaps  more  so  than, 
the  Moslems  have  been. 

On  the  exterior  there  are  bits  of  delicate  carvings 
remaining  between  the  lofty  windows.  They  are  exqui- 
site in  design,  and  in  the  rich  golden  hue  which  the  sun 
and  storm  and  heat  of  centuries  have  given  them.  The 
supports  of  balconies  remain,  from  which  the  outldok  must 
have  been  entrancing;  and  a  portion  of  a  tower  is  seen, 
said  to  be  that  in  which  the  emj)erors  showed  themselves 
to  the  people.  In  short,  there  is  much  to  study  and  to 
admire  in  this  one  example  of  the  massive  Byzantine 
architecture  which  remains  in  such  a  condition  as  to 
suggest  what  it  may  originally  have    been. 

One  must  here  recall  the  story  of  the  great  Belisarius, 
so  fully  given  us  i)y  his  fnithful  and  admiring  secreinry, 
Procopius.  It  was  from  this  palace,  after  the  return  of 
the  great  warrior  from  the  conquest  of  Africa,  that  his 
triumpbal  procession  took  its  way  to  the  Ilippodi'onte. 

15 


226  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

"The  wealth  of  natious  was  displayed;  the  trophies  of 
martial  or  effeiniuate  luxury  ;  rich  armour,  goldeu  thrones, 
and  the  chariots  of  state  which  had  been  used  by  the  Vandal 
queen  ;  the  massy  furniture  of  the  royal  banquet,  the  splendour 
of  precious  stones,  the  elegant  forms  of  statues  and  vases,  the 
more  substantial  treasure  of  gold,  and  the  holy  vessels  of  the 
Jewish  temple,  which  after  their  long  peregrination  were  re- 
spectfully deposited  in  the  Christian  church  of  Jerusalem.  A 
long  train  of  the  noblest  Vandals  reluctantly  exposed  their  lofty 
stature  and  manly  countenance.  .  .  .  Instead  of  ascending  a 
triumphal  car  drawn  by  four  horses  or  elephants,  the  modest 
conqueror  marched  on  foot  at  the  head  of  his  brave  companions: 
his  prudence  might  decline  an  honour  too  conspicuous  for  a  sub- 
ject ;  and  his  magnanimity  might  justly  disdain  what  had  been 
so  often  sullied  by  the  vilest  of  tyrants.  The  glorious  proces- 
sion entered  tlie  gate  of  the  Hippodrome,  was  saluted  by  the 
acclamations  of  the  senate  and  people,  and  halted  before  the 
throne  where  Justinian  and  Theodora  were  seated  to  receive 
the  homage  of  the  captive  monarch  and  the  victorious  hero. 
They  both  performed  the  customary  adoration,  and,  falling 
prostrate  on  the  ground,  respectfully  touched  the  footstool  of  a 
prince  who  had  not  unsheathed  his  sword,  and  of  a  prostitute 
who  had  danced  on  the  theatre  :  some  gentle  violence  was  used 
to  bend  the  stubborn  spirit  of  the  grandson  of  Genseric ;  and 
however  trained  to  servitude,  the  genius  of  Belisarius  must  have 
secretly  rebelled.  He  was  immediately  declared  consul  for 
the  ensuing  year,  and  the  day  of  his  inauguration  resembled 
the  pomp  of  a  second  triumpli ;  his  curule  chair  was  borne 
aloft  on  the  shoulders  of  captive  Vandals  ;  and  the  spoils  of 
war,  gold  cups,  and  rich  girdles  were  profusely  scattered  among 
the  populace."  ^ 

The  wonderful  prowess  of  Belisarius  and  his  new  con- 
quests in  Italy  and  Sicily  raised  him  to  the  very  highest 
pinnacle  of  military  glory;  and  the  fullest  honours  and 
greatest  riches  that  Justinian  could  lavish  on  him  could 

1  Gibbon. 


ANTIQUITIES   OF   CONSTAa  riNOPLE.  227 

not  requite  his  services  nor  properly  ex])rcss  tlie  obliga- 
tion of  the  emperor  to  him.  But  suspicions  of  his  general 
were  poured  like  jioison  into  the  ear  of  Justinian,  and 
Belisarius  was  suddenly  recalled.  He  obeyed  with  alac- 
rity; and  the  people  absolutely  worshipped  him,  as  they 
might  well  do,  not  only  on  account  of  his  military  achieve- 
ments, but  as  a  chaste,  sober,  prudent,  and  modest  man. 
We  can  picture  him  as  Procopius  presents  him  to  us, —  his 
lofty  figure  wrapped  in  his  white  mantle,  passing  in  and 
out  of  his  palace,  followed  by  his  guards,  greeting  every 
Byzantine,  no  matter  how  humble,  with  the  courtesy 
which  every  great  man  can  well  afford,  and  in  every 
direction  realizing  the  exalted  opinion  which  had  been 
formed  of  his  character. 

But  with  the  frailty  of  humanity  Belisarius  indulged  a 
weakness  which  became  an  actual  stain  upon  his  honour. 
He  loved  and  married  Antonina,  knowing  her  base  origin 
and  her  unworthy  life ;  and  although  she  committed  the 
most  flagrant  offences  against  his  love  and  loyalty,  of 
which  he  was  perfectly  aware,  he  still  loved  her  with  all 
her  vices. 

Returning  from  still  another  successful  campaign  in 
Persia,  he  was  coldly  received  by  the  emperor  and  the 
base  Theodora,  who  had  been  a  lifelong  friend  of  Antonina. 
Even  the  minds  of  the  citizens  had  been  turned  against 
him,  so  that,  as  he  passed  alone  and  broken-hearted  to 
his  palace,  he  was  insulted  in  the  streets,  and,  reaching 
his  home  in  despair,  he  threw  himself  down  and  wept, 
awaiting  the  death  that  he  might  reasonal)ly  anticipate 
at  the  hand  of  the  cruel,   shameless  empress. 

A  scroll  was  soon  brought  him,  in  which  he  looked  to 
sec  what  manner  of  death  he  was  to  die.  In  great  surprise 
he  read  his  pardon  in  these  words:  — 

"Yon  cannot  lie  ignorant  how  nuich  you  have  deserved  my 
displeasure.     J  am  not  insensible  of  the  services  of  Antonina. 


228  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

To  her  merits  and  intereessiou  I  have  granted  your  life,  and 
permit  you  to  retain  a  part  of  your  treasures,  which  might  be 
justly  forfeited  to  the  State.  Let  your  gratitude  where  it  is 
due  be  displayed,  not  in  words,  bat  iu  your  future  behaviour."  ^ 

With  ignominious  haste  the  hero  forgot  all  but  his 
mad  love  for  his  unworthy  wife,  and,  flying  to  her, 
threw  himself  at  her  feet,  protesting  to  her  his  love  and 
devotion. 

"  At  his  departure  from  Constantinople,  his  friends,  and  even 
the  public,  were  persuaded  that  as  soon  as  he  regained  his  free- 
dom he  would  renounce  his  dissimulation  ;  and  that  his  wife, 
Theodora,  and  perhaps  the  emperor  himself,  would  be  sacrificed 
to  the  just  revenge  of  a  virtuous  rebel.  Their  hopes  were  de- 
ceived ;  and  the  unconquerable  patience  and  loyalty  of  Belisarius 
appear  either  heloiu  or  above  the  character  of  a  man."  ^ 

Again  this  magnificent  soldier  and  contemptible  lover 
took  the  field,  and  commanded  the  army  in  the  Italian 
war ;  and  after  nearly  twenty  years,  when  the  Bulgarians 
threatened  the  destruction  of  Constantinople,  it  was  to 
this  valiant  and  now  aged  general  to  whom  Justinian 
turned  for  aid.  He  was  not  found  wanting,  and  after  his 
victory  was  received  with  joy  by  the  people.  But  Justinian 
treated  him  coldly,  and  about  two  years  later  gave  credit 
to  accusations  of  treason  against  this  much  tried  servant. 
The  imprisonment  of  Belisarius  is  a  dark  stain  on  the 
record  of  Justinian's  life ;  but  happily  the  old  hero  was 
restored  to  freedom  and  honour  before  his  death,  and  his 
innocence  publicly  declared. 

"  The  name  of  Belisarius  can  never  die ;  but,  instead  of 
the  funeral,  the  monuments,  the  statues,  so  justly  due  to  his 
memory,  I  only  read  that  his  treasures,  the  spoils  of  the  Goths 
and  Vandals,  were  immediately  confiscated  by  the  emperor. 
Some  decent  portion  was  reserved,  however,  for  the  use  of  his 
1  Gibbon.  2  jbid. 


ANTIQUITIES    OF   CONSTANTINOPLE.  229 

widr-w  ;  and  as  Autonina  had  imicli  to  repent,  she  devoted  the 
last  remains  of  her  life  and  fortune  to  the  foundation  of  a  con- 
vent. Such  is  the  simple  and  genuine  narrative  of  the  fall  of 
Belisarius,  and  the  ingratitude  of  Justinian."  ^ 

Another  ancient  palace  was  the  Bucoleon,  which  was 
occupied  by  the  Marquis  of  Montferrat  after  the  Latin 
conquest.  It  was  reached  from  the  Hippodrome  by 
descending  the  hillside,  through  lovely  gardens  shaded  by 
luxuriant  trees,  in  which  were  plashing  fountains,  vast 
porticoes,  and  beautiful  statues,  until  on  the  seashore  this 
palace  was  reached.  Near  it  was  a  place  of  embarkation 
for  the  special  use  of  the  emperors.  Here  the  frequent 
pleasure-parties  embarked  for  various  points  on  the 
Eosphorus  or  the  lovely  ishmds  of  the  Pro)»ontis.  The 
only  existing  remnants  of  this  si)lendid  structure  are 
the  pillars  of  a  gate  of  a  palace  near  the  Chatladi  Kapousi 
—  Butcher's  Gate  —  and  a  bas-relief  of  a  pair  of  lions, 
which  are  thought  to  indicate  the  site  of  the  summer 
palace  of  Theodosius. 

Returning  to  the  Adrianople  Gate  and  the  objects  of 
interest  in  its  neighbourhood,  there  is,  not  far  from  the 
Palace  of  Belisarius,  an  ancient  Byzantine  church,  now 
the  mosque  of  Kahriiih  Jamisi,  formerly  a  part  of  the 
monastery  of  Chora,  founded  by  Justinian,  and  rebuilt  by 
Mary  Ducas,  whose  daughter  was  the  empress  of  Alexius 
Comncnus.  Here  are  some  fourteenth-century  mosaics 
and  frescoes.  A  part  of  them  arc  veiled  by  the  omni- 
present Moslem  whitewash,  but  those  in  the  outer  portions 
of  the  edifice  are  uncovered.  The  architecture  of  the 
church  is  interesting,  and  in  the  decorations  the  represen- 
tations of  the  Ijife  of  Clirist  and  the;  Virgin  have  a  spirit 
and  action  not  usual   in   works  of  tlicir  pci-iod. 

There    are    in    different    quartei's    several    Byzantine 

1  Gibbon. 


230  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

church t'S,  now  mos(jiies,  which  are  of  interest  to  the  anti^ 
quarian.  Even  the  names  of  some  of  them  are  lost,  and 
while  there  is  little  in  them  to  attract  the  usual  sight- 
seer, they  do  retain  sufficient  of  their  ancient  character- 
istics to  prove  how  numerous  the  churches  must  have  been 
under  the  rule  of  the  Greeks  and  Romans. 

Resuming  the  walk  by  the  walls,  the  Gate  of  Pempti, 
no  longer  open,  is  next  seen;  and  soon  after  the  river 
Lycus  is  crossed.  Not  far  from  this  was  the  very  centre 
of  the  battle  between  the  army  of  Mohammed  IT. — a 
fierce  array  of  wild  tribes,  Arabs,  Tartars,  Caucasians, 
and  Africans,  besides  the  trained  Janissaries  —  and  the 
troops  of  the  last  Constantine.  The  walls  still  offer 
emphatic  testimony  to  the  effect  of  the  monster  gun  of 
Orbano  in  the  colossal  fragments  of  their  masonry  lying 
here  as  if  but  now  thrown  down. 

The  Gate  of  S.  Romanus  is  more  celebrated  than  all  the 
others;  for  here  the  last  Greek  emperor,  Constantine 
Palajologus  Dragases,  fell  bravely  meeting  his  fate,  fight- 
ing to  the  end,  and  ever  shouting,  "For  God  and  the 
Virgin!"  until  a  fatal  stroke  stilled  his  voice  forever. 

As  one  advances,  a  curious  effect  is  produced  by  the 
varying  height  of  the  walls.  Now  the  entire  city  is 
hidden;  again  the  tops  of  hundreds  of  graceful  minarets 
are  seen,  and  then  suddenly  a  breach  reveals  gardens  and 
houses,  with  the  outline  of  more  distant  towers  and  other 
structures. 

As  the  Curtain  of  Theodosius  IT.  is  reached,  the  masonry 
is  far  more  perfect,  and  some  long  stretches  are  compara- 
tively well  preserved.  Here,  too,  the  towers  are  fine,  and 
iiave  the  appearance  of  still  being  able  to  withstand  stoutly 
an  attack.  A  curious  feature  is  the  huts  of  peasants 
built  on  the  platforms.  They  are  so  small  and  look  so 
frail  beside  these  Cyclopean  walls  that  one  looks  for  a 
wind  to  scatter  them  like  deserted  bird's-nests. 


ANTIQUITIES   OF   CONSTANTINOPLE.  231 

We  pass  the  portal  Mcvlaneh,  or  Yeni  Kapousi,  near 
which  is  a  monastery  of  dervishes  and  a  cemetery,  and 
reach  another  gate,  which  was  formerly  that  of  Sclymbria, 
as  the  road  to  that  city  by  Rhegium  began  here.  The 
way  was  paved  by  Justinian,  and  some  of  the  stones  still 
remain.  This  gate  is  flanked  by  two  eight-sided  towers, 
and  its  small  triple-arched  bridge  is  of  a  lovely  tawny 
colour. 

Close  by  this  gate  is  the  convent  of  Balukli ;  and  a 
monk  is  always  at  hand  to  conduct  one  to  its  miraculous 
fountain,  and  tell  his  fishy  tale,  which  runs  thus :  On  the 
day  when  Mohammed  II.  became  the  master  of  Constan- 
tinople, a  Greek  priest  was  tranquilly  frying  fish  at 
Balukli,  confident  that  the  Crescent  would  never  be  per- 
mitted to  overcome  the  Cross.  When  his  fish  were  well 
browned  on  one  side,  a  brother  rushed  in  and  breathlessly 
announced  that  the  Moslem  conqueror  was  even  then  in 
S.  Sophia.  To  this  the  reverend  cook  replied,  "Pooli! 
I  could  better  believe  that  these  fish  will  jump  out  of  my 
boiling  oil  and  swim  upon  the  floor!"  No  sooner  was 
this  said  than  out  jumped  the  fish,  which  may  still  be 
seen  in  the  cistern  of  Balukli,  red  on  one  side  and  brown 
on  the  other,  in  praiseworthy  remembrance  of  their  escape 
Avhcn  l)ut  half  cooked.  Doubtless,  if  they  could  speak  it 
would  be  to  repeat  the  familiar  proverb,  "It  is  an  ill  wind 
turns  none  to  good. " 

At  length  we  reach  the  Golden  Gate,  near  the  Castle  of 
(he  Seven  Towers,  and  the  last  on  the  land  side.  De 
Amicis  thus  describes  the  scene  between  Balukli  and  this 
spot : — 

"And  still  on  one  side  walls  upon  wnlis  and  towers  upon 
towers,  and  on  the  othor  shady  cenietcrios,  green  fields  and 
vineyards,  a  closed  house  or  two,  and  beyond,  the  desert.  The 
vegetation  here  is  marvellous.  Great  leafy  trees  start  from  the 
towers  as  from  gigantic  vases  ;    red  and  yellow  blossoms  and 


232  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

garlands  of  ivy  and  honeysuckle  hang  from  the  battlements, 
and  below  grows  an  inextricable  tangle  of  weeds  and  wild 
shrubs,  from  the  midst  of  which  spring  plane-trees  and  willows 
shading  the  moat  and  the  road.  Large  tracts  of  wall  are  com- 
pletely covered  with  ivy,  holding  the  stones  together  like  avast 
net,  and  hiding  their  wounds  and  fissures.  ,  .  .  Flocks  of  birds 
nest  in  the  walls  ;  the  air  is  full  of  the  pungent  fragrance  of 
wild  herbs ;  and  a  sort  of  spring-like  joyousness  seems  to 
breathe  from  the  ruins,  tliat  look  as  if  they  were  decorated 
with  flowers  and  garlands  for  the  passage  of  a  Sultana.  Sud- 
denly I  felt  upon  my  face  a,  putf  of  salt  air,  and  raising  my  eyes 
beheld  the  Sea  of  Marmora  lying  blue  before  me." 

The  famous  triumphal  Golden  Gate  is  now  walled  up, 
and  one  discerns  but  some  columns  of  a  greenish  tint,  and 
two  massive  white  towers.  On  the  cornice  are  sculptured 
the  Roman  eagles  and  the  Labarum  of  Constantine. 
Theodosius  II.  erected  this  gate  in  imitation  of  the 
Triumphal  Gate  of  Rome,  and  after  his  time  the  Greek 
emperors  entered  here  in  triumphal  processions  and  took 
their  way  to  the  church  of  S.  Sophia.  Here  passed  one 
potentate  after  another,  in  proud  array,  attended  by  the 
flower  of  his  subjects  and  received  by  the  fickle  masses 
with  enthusiastic  cheers,  perhaps  to  be  soon  deserted  by 
all  save  his  paid  Varangians,  those  blond  -and  blue-eyed 
giants  of  the  North  who  made  his  firmest  support  in  times 
of  danger. 

The  cisterns  of  Constantinople  are  among  its  most 
interesting  antiquities.  Binbirdirek,  or  the  Cistern  of 
Constantine,  is  called  the  "Thousand  and  one  Pillars," 
and  is  not  far  from  the  Burnt  Column.  In  spite  of  its 
name  it  has  but  two  hundred  and  twenty-four  pillars, 
which  are  so  arranged  as  to  form  aisles  beneath  the 
arches  which  rest  on  them.  These  columns  are  of  white 
marble,  with  capitals  executed  in  a  semi-barbarous  style 
to  which  it  would  be  difficult  to  give  a  name.     The  mono- 


ANTIQUITIES   OF   CONSTANTINOPLE.  233 

gram  of  Constantino  is  seen  upon  the  bricks  which  are 
built  into  the  arches  as  well  as  into  the  shafts  of  some  of 
the  columns.  It  is  said  that  the  exposed  pillars  are  the 
upper  ones  only,  and  that  a  still  larger  number  are  below, 
having  never  been  excavated. 

Let  this  be  as  it  may,  this  subterranean  edifice  now 
.appears  like  a  pillared  hall ;  and  here  Jews  and  Armenians 
are  at  work,  twisting  silk,  beneath  the  columns.  It  is 
not  easy  to  visit  this  hall  of  the  silk-winders.  The 
rickety  steps  are  almost  dangerous  to  strangers ;  and  when 
there  the  atmosphere  is  far  from  agreeable,  while  the 
noise  of  the  wheels  and  looms  is  deafening. 

The  Yeni  Batan  Serai,  or  Underground  Palace,  has 
always  been  an  interesting  anti(|uity  of  Constantinople; 
and  since  it  plays  so  romantic  and  important  a  })art  in 
the  "Prince  of  India,"  the  interest  in  it  is  much  more 
general  than  before.  It  is  the  chief  of  the  Byzantine 
cisterns.  Built  l»y  Constantino  and  enlarged  l)y  Justinian, 
it  has  been  in  use  constantly  during  more  than  fifteen  and 
a  half  centuries,  and  those  who  have  seen  it  tell  us  that 
it  is  admirably  i)rescrved.  The  water  is  abundant,  and 
comes  from  unknown  sources.  It  is  now  obtained  by 
lowering  buckets  through  openings  in  the  roof.  This 
roof  is  nearly  perfect,  and  is  a  succession  of  vaults.  It 
rests  on  three  hundred  and  thirty-six  pillars,  some  of 
them  having  Corinthian  capitals,  while  others  make  no 
pretensions  of  this  sort.  I  suppose  that  one  may  obtain 
permission  to  visit  this  watery  palace,  but  it  is  not  an 
easy  Ibing  to  do  even  then.  However,  we  are  told  that  it 
is  a  marvellous  sight;  that  the  columns  are  white,  and 
that  when  the  light  used  affords  a  sufKicicnt  illumination, 
the  whole  scene  is  magical  and  enchanting. 

It  is  easy  to  understand  that  to  the  superstitious 
^loslems  this  cistern  is  a  place  of  horror,  and  there  are 
many  blood-curdling  tales  of  crimes  that  have  been  hidden 


234  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

in  its  waters,  among  its  sepulchral  corridors.  Stories  are 
told  of  those  who  have  gone  in  boats  to  discover  its  size, 
some  of  whom  have  never  returned,  while  others  have 
come  back  half  crazed,  followed  by  fiendish  laughter  and 
unearthly  sounds  which  echoed  and  re-echoed  through  the 
spacious  vaults. 

Hobhousc  speaks  of  a  cistern  with  eighty  pillars  on  the 
third  hill  near  the  mosque  of  Laleli ;  but  this  is  the  only 
mention  of  it  tliat  has  come  under  my  observation,  and  no 
explorer  of  Constantinople  has  spoken  of  it  to  me.  There 
are,  howfever,  remnants  of  several  other  cisterns.  One 
near  the  Seven  Towers  has  twenty-three  columns  remain- 
ing. The  locations  where  others  are  thought  to  have 
existed  by  antiquarians  are  now  occupied  by  gardens,  and 
cannot  be  identified.  Gautier  has  given  a  graphic  account 
of  his  experience  in  visiting  the  cisterns. 

"  Spinning-wheels  and  winders  buzz  beneath  the  arches  of 
Constantine,  and  the  noise  of  looms  imitates  the  rippling  of  the 
waters  which  have  disappeared.  There  reigns  in  this  subterra- 
nean region —  half  lighted  and  half  buried  in  profound  shadow 
—  an  icy  coldness,  which  chills  the  visitor ;  and  it  is  with  a 
lively  sensation  of  pleasure  that  he  remounts,  from  the  depths 
of  this  gulf,  into  the  warm  glow  of  the  sunshine  ;  pitying  sin- 
cerely the  poor  workpeople,  patiently  pursuing  their  tasks, 
like  gnomes  or  kobolds,  in  their  cold  and  dreary  cavern." 

Of  the  Yeni  Batan  Serai'  he  says :  — 

"Nothing  conld  be  more  grim  and  sombre.  The  Turks 
believe  that  djinns,  ghouls,  and  afrites  hold  their  sabbath  in 
these  lugubrious  regions  ;  and  there  flap  joyously  their  bat- 
like wings,  damp  with  the  drippings  of  the  vault.  Formerly 
it  was  customary  to  navigate,  in  a  boat,  this  subterranean  sea ; 
and  the  voyage  must  have  strangely  resembled  the  crossing  of 
the  infernal  stream  under  the  guardianship  of  Charon.  Some 
boats,  drawn,  doubtless,  by  the  action  of  unknown  currents, 
towards  some  gulf,  never  returned    from    this  dark   journey, 


ANTIQUITIES   OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  235 

which  is  now,  therefore,  peremptorily  interdicted;  aud  which, 
even  were  it  otherwise,  I  should  not  have  had  the  slightest 
desire  to  undertake." 

Parts  of  the  aqueduct  of  Valens  may  still  be  seen.  It 
brought  water  from  the  reservoirs  of  Belgrade,  from 
which  source  the  cisterns  also  were  probably  supplied. 
It  connects  the  third  and  fourth  hills,  and  is  still  of  use 
by  means  of  pipes  laid  on  its  summits.  Its  double  row 
of  forty  Gothic  arches  is  most  picturesque,  and  almost 
startling  in  the  midst  of  surroundings  so  out  of  keeping 
with  the  period  and  the  art  which  it  represents ;  for  it 
is  in  that  densely  populated  portion  of  Constantinople 
known  as  the  horse-market  quarters.  Vines  are  clinging 
to  it,  and  make  here,  as  elsewhere,  that  charming  effect 
for  which  one  is  especially  grateful  when  they  conceal  at 
once  the  decay  of  the  past  and  the  disagreeables  of  the 
pj-esent. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

SHOPS    AND    BAZAARS. 

TN  many  portions  of  Constantinople,  notably  in  Pera, 
-*-  the  appearance  of  the  shops  has  very  much  changed 
within  the  last  three  decades,  and  there  are  now  entire 
business  blocks,  much  like  those  seen  in  large  cities  the 
woi'ld  over;  but  many  of  the  old-time  Oriental  cubby- 
liules,  which  answer  the  purpose  of  shops,  still  remain. 
They  are  a  sort  of  stall  or  alcove,  into  which  the  purchaser 
never  enters.  The  shopkeeper  sits  in  the  front  of  this 
little  box,  or  sometimes  even  outside  it,  cross-legged,  on 
an  old  rug  or  bit  of  matting,  and  has  no  apparent  interest 
in  his  customers  nor  in  selling  his  wares. 

The  shopper  stands  in  the  street,  and  if  by  peering  into 
the  little  stall  ho  discovers  what  he  wishes,  the  merchant 
will  very  deliberately  take  it  down;  but  he  will  not  evince 
the  smallest  anxiety  to  sell  it,  and  the  thought  of  advan- 
tageously displaying  his  goods  is  one  that  he  has  not 
grasped,  and  would  probably  scorn  if  it  were  made  clear 
to  him.  It  will  be-  understood  that  I  am  speaking  espe- 
cially of  the  Mohammedans.  The  Jews,  Franks,  and 
other  nations  are  the  same  in  Turkey  that  they  are 
elsewhere. 

The  Turkish  shopkeepers  smoke  continually,  and  indeed 
all  Turks  smoke  intcmperately.  Consequently  the  pipe 
and  tobacco  shops  are  very  numerous,  and  have  some 
most  attractive  goods.  The  amber  mouthpieces  and  the 
cherry-wood  and  jasmine  stems  are  really  beautiful ;  and 
it  is  interesting  to  watch  the  operation  of  boring  these 


SHOPS   AND   BAZAARS.  237 

stems,  which  may  frequently  be  seen  in  progress  in  the 
bits  of  shops. 

Turkish  gentlemen  make  valuable  collections  of  pipes 
and  mouthpieces.  Some  of  these  are  set  with  precious 
stones,  and  are  frequently  mounted  in  gold  and  fine 
enamels ;  in  fact,  a  good  collection  of  pipes  is  as  much  an 
indication  of  wealth  as  a  fast  yacht  or  fine  horses  would 
be  elsewhere,  and  it  is  not  unusual  for  a  wealthy  Turk  to 
invest  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  thousand  dollars  in  these 
wares. 

The  shops  of  Constantinople  are  far  less  interesting 
than  the  bazaars,  which  have  frequently  been  described  in 
•the  most  fascinating  manner,  and  I  have  read  no  descrip- 
tion of  them  that  seemed  to  me  to  exaggerate  their 
interest. 

The  Grand  Bazaar,  called  Bezestin,  is  in  fact  a  town  by 
itself.  Its  sti-cets  vary  in  width  from  those  of  sufficiently 
ample  dimensions,  with  squares  and  fountains,  to  the 
merest  lanes  or  passages.  It  is  a  perfect  labyrinth  of 
streets  within  an  irregularly  shaped  edifice,  overarched 
and  lighted  by  numberless  small  cupolas.  No  sunlight 
penetrates  here;  and  the  dim,  hazy  light  adds  a  semi- 
poetical  effect  to  the  bazaar,  to  the  crowds  within  it,  to 
the  women  and  children  attended  by  eunuchs  and  slaves, 
to  the  goods  to  be  sold,  to  the  whole  experience ;  and  one 
even  feels  like  pinching  one's  self  to  make  sure  that  he  is 
(piite  the  same  as  the  commonplace  being  who  has  gone 
to  do  his  shopping  in  the  commonplace  shops  of  other 
cities. 

Each  street  rescm])les  the  nave  of  a  church,  arched 
overhead  with  black  and  white  stones,  and  finished  with 
arabe8(pie-likc  decorations.  In  some  jiarts  of  the  ba/.aai- 
horses,  camels,  and  carriages  arc  seen,  and  there  is  an 
air  of  confusion  in  the  ci-owds  of  people  passing  and 
repassing.     In    other   portions    it   is  very  quiet,    as   the 


238  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

noise  of  the  city  is  entirely  shut  out,  and  save  for  a  gentle 
murmur  of  pleasant  voices  it  is  calm  and  still. 

There  are  numerous  little  bazaars  within  the  one  grand 
bazaar,  and  each  one  is  devoted  to  a  special  kind  of  goods. 
If  one  buys  nothing,  there  is  not  a  place  in  Constantinople 
where  he  could  be  better  amused,  or  where  time  slips  away 
more  imperceptibly.  The  bazaar  is,  in  fact,  a  far  more 
entertaining  museum  than  many  with  which  one  meets 
in  travelling,  and  few  comedies  or  light  operas  afford 
more  amusement  than  one  can  find  in  watching  the  people 
who  arc  moving  about  him.  Behind  and  above  the  small 
shops  there  are  frequently  larger  apartments  filled  with 
a  choicer  selection  of  goods  than  are  seen  on  the  street, 
and  in  one  part  of  the  bazaar  or  another  may  be  found 
all  the  products  of  the  Orient,  and  many  of  the  Western 
World. 

It  is  a  wise  method  for  the  stranger  to  go  more  than 
once  to  study  this  curious  place  before  he  goes  to  make 
purchases;  for  these  sleepy,  dead-and-alive  seeming  mer- 
chants have  a  very  clear  and  arithmetical  brain  behind 
their  soft,  dull  eyes,  and  one  needs  to  concentrate  his 
thought  on  his  bargain  when  dealing  with  them. 

In  the  bazaar  of  perfumes  one  is  almost  intoxicated 
with  the  mixture  of  delicious  odours.  Jasmine,  attar  of 
roses,  bergamot,  sandalwood,  and  odoriferous  gums  unite 
to  make  an  atmosphere  of  which  one  has  not  dreamed; 
and  one  recalls  that  perfumes  were  one  of  the  three  best 
beloved  of  all  earthly  joys  by  the  Prophet,  women  and 
children  alone  preceding  them  in  his  esteem.  How  human 
this  makes  him  seem! 

This  bazaar  is  much  affected  by  the  Turkish  women, 
who  here  purchase  the  numberless  cosmetics  with  which 
they  endeavour  to  enhance  the  beauty  which  Nature  has 
bestowed  on  them,  —  kohl  for  eyelashes  and  brows,  henna 
for  the  fingers,  and  an  endless  variety  of  soaps,  powders. 


SHOPS   AND   BAZAARS.  239 

perfumed  waters  and  pomades,  and  all  put  up  in  the  most 
luxurious  manner,  —  in  velvet  cases  heavily  embroidered, 
and  in  little  boxes  and  flasks  that  are  entrancing.  Here 
too  are  combs,  hand  mirrors,  rosaries,  and  the  like,  of 
rare  and  costly  as  well  as  of  less  expensive  materials.  It 
is  not  strange  that  the  ladies  in  their  yashmaks  and 
feridjc-Wko.  cloaks  linger  here  longer  than  the  eunuchs 
think  it  necessary;  and  it  is  wonderful  to  see  with  what 
utter  indifference  the  merchant  permits  them  to  upset  all 
the  wares  in  his  shop. 

One  of  the  most  fascinating  bazaars  to  both  men  and 
women  is  that  of  weapons.  These  are  in  one  of  the  larger 
shops,  reached  by  ascending  two  or  more  flights  of  steps. 
The  merchants  in  the  more  spacious  and  serious  shops 
conduct  their  affairs  with  such  dignity  and  leisurely 
elegance  that  one  should  never  visit  them  when  in  haste; 
and  if  one  will  adapt  himself  to  the  consciousness  of 
l)eing  master  of  all  the  time  there  is,  he  will  find  the 
bazaars  most  enjoyable,  and  the  opening  ceremony  delight- 
ful. Tliis  consists  of  taking  a  thimbleful  of  delicious 
coffee  from  the  most  delicate  of  cups  set  in  a  holder  of 
filigree  silver  or  gold,  followed  by  a  cigarette  or  a  few 
puffs  from  a  luxrghilc. 

The  weapons  here  arc  simply  marvellous,  with  thoir 
curious  shape,  exquisite  temper  and  sharpness,  and  the 
magnificence  and  intrinsic  value  of  thoir  jewels.  They 
have  repousse  and  chased  silver  sheaths  and  scabbards, 
which  arc  again  enclosed  in  ex(|uisite  velvet  covers 
embroidered  in  pure  gold  or  silver  thread.  The  hnndlos 
are  encrusted  with  turquoise,  coral,  garnets,  and  other 
more  precious  stones,  and  these  arc  intertwined  with 
texts  from  the  Koran  laid  in  with  gold  letters.  There 
are  also  exquisitely  carved  ivor}',  sandalwood,  and  mother- 
of-pearl  mountings  to  these  priceless  blades. 

There    are    yatnizhans,    poniards,     scimitais,     wicked- 


240  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

looking  sheath  knives,  Damascus  blades,  and  many 
curiously  shaped  daggers,  all  laid  on  low  tables  in  the 
centre  of  the  apartment,  while  the  walls  are  hung  with 
helmets,  casques,  shields,  coats  of  mail,  and  all  kinds  of 
armour  known  from  the  days  of  the  Israelitish  battles  to 
the  present  time. 

Suddenly,  while  you  are  speaking  to  the  Moslem  mer- 
chant, he  leaves  you,  sinks  on  his  knees,  touches  the  floor 
with  his  forehead,  and  with  his  face  carefully  turned 
towards  Mecca,  recites  his  prayers  with  as  much  devotion 
as  if  he  were  in  a  temple  and  no  other  human  being 
existed,  — as  if  Allah  and  he  alone  filled  the  universe. 

The  variety  of  goods  to  be  found  in  the  Grand  Bazaar 
and  the  beauty  of  them  could  be  endlessly  described. 
There  is  an  equal  or  even  larger  quantity  of  ordinary 
objects;  and  one  turns  from  the  exquisite  fabrics  and 
colouring  produced  by  Oriental  looms  and  hands  to  expe- 
rience a  sickening  disgust  at  the  crude  productions  of  the 
West,  with  their  abominable  designs  and  worse  tints. 

But  one  may  revel  for  days  in  the  midst  of  Tunisian 
scarfs,  Persian  rugs  and  shawls,  exquisite  embroideries 
from  the  cities  of  the  East  and  the  mountains  of  Syria; 
tables  and  stools  richly  inlaid;  a  multitude  of  small 
objects  in  gold,  silver,  ivory,  pearl,  and  tortoise  shell; 
ancient  porcelains  and  exquisite  brasses;  Broussa  silks 
that  glisten  like- icicles  in  the  sun,  and  are  as  delicate 
and  elusive  in  their  colours;  fans  of  an  endless  variety; 
chaplets  of  pearl,  ivory,  spicy  woods,  and  precious  beads; 
and  a  collection  of  exquisitely  fashioned  articles  for 
which  I  know  no  name.  Truly,  in  these  bazaars  the 
meaning  of  "the  wealth  of  Ind  "  dawns  upon  one  as  it 
rarely  can  elsewhere. 

The  bazaar  of  the  gold  and  silver  wire  drawers  is  a 
fascinating  spot.  Here  are  made  the  threads  for  the 
embroidery  that  does  not  tarnish,  as  well  as  the  magnifi- 


SHOPS  AND  BAZAARS.  241 

cent  and  costly  cords  and  braids  which  are  lavished  on 
some  of  the  Turkish  uniforms  and  costumes  worn  on  state 
occasions.  The  Turkish  method  of  holding  the  work  with 
the  great  toe,  or  of  passing  a  cord  around  it,  is  curious; 
and  one  can  watch  these  wire  drawers  a  long  time  with 
interest. 

It  would  be  difhcult  to  draw  a  picture  of  the  "  Bazaar 
of  Arms  "  which  would  exceed  the  truth.  It  is  the  most 
fascinating  of  museums,  for  it  never  seemed  to  me  like  a 
place  of  merchandise.  There  are  costumes  and  arms  that 
might  well  have  answered  to  the  needs  of  Timour,  Gen- 
ghis Khan,  the  great  Akbar,  Saladin,  Richard  Coeur  de 
Lion,  or  the  Prince  of  Magicians  himself.  There  too  are 
the  housings  for  their  steeds  as  well,  stiff  with  embroi- 
dery of  silver  and  gold,  and  actually  blazing  with  jewels, 
diamonds,  and  other  dazzling  gems.  It  is  a  comfort  to 
know  that  even  the  fatalist  and  indifferent  Moslems  have 
such  an  appreciation  of  the  value  of  the  objects  gathered 
here  that  it  is  forbidden  to  smoke  in  this  bazaar.  This 
may  be  the  reason  why  it  is  closed  at  noon,  and  the  mer- 
chants who  own  it  retire  to  their  homes  to  forget  every- 
thing save  the  pleasures  permitted  to  the  faithful  followers 
of  the  Prophet. 

The  fine  jewellers'  bazaar  contains  an  incredible  value 
in  precious  stones.  The  Turks  not  only  love  them,  but 
esteem  them  as  good  investments.  It  is  easy  to  carry  a 
large  fortune  in  one's  pocket,  and  to  realize  money  on  a 
fine  jewel  at  any  time.  Banks  and  stocks  are  an  abomina- 
tion to  an  orthodox  Mohammedan,  and  small  wonder  that 
it  is  so  if  one  considers  the  history  of  Turkish  finance! 

The  jewels  one  sees  here  are  of  amazing  richness,  but 
the  settings  are  clumsy  and  inartistic.  They  make,  how- 
ever, great  iiuml)ers  of  necklaces,  l)rncelets,  anklets,  ear- 
riu'-'s,  nnd  nn  inimense  variety  of  oi-nanicnts  for  the  head. 
Crescents,    stnrs,   and   flowers   are  favourite  designs,   not 

16 


242  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

only  in  jewellery,  but  in  everything  that  can  be  called 
ornamental  in  Turkish  products.  But  the  jeweller's 
bazaar  is  not  attractive  to  look  at,  as  the  rare  and  brilliant 
gems  are  hidden  away  in  wooden  boxes,  and  these  enclosed 
in  wire  nettings;  and  nothing  of  beauty  is  to  be  seen 
unless  one  wishes  to  buy,  when  the  diamonds,  rubies, 
pearls,  sapphires,  and  emeralds  that  can  be  produced  are 
simjdy  incredible,  and  one  could  easily  spend  a  million 
and  leave  many  most  desirable  gems  behind,  in  a  shop 
that  on  his  entrance  had  no  appearance  of  being  a  mine 
of  treasures. 

The  shoe  bazaar  is  curious  and  amusing,  and,  oddly 
enough,  it  is  a  very  decorative  bazaar.  It  has  a  double 
row  of  sbops;  and  when  standing  at  one  end  and  looking 
through  it,  the  eye  doos  not  distinguish  the  precise  out- 
line of  any  special  slipper,  but  the  whole  effect  is  that  of 
a  brilliant  hall.  There  are  innumerable  slippers  of  all 
colours  and  of  curiously  ingenious  styles.  They  are 
lavishly  ornamented  with  filigree  work  and  jewels,  and 
are  made  in  kid,  velvet,  satin,  and  even  fur.  There  are 
spangles  and  swan's  down,  and  arabesques  and  flowers  in 
gold  and  silver,  and  exquisite  embroidery  in  pearls. 

These  slippers  are  so  tiny  that  they  would  make  the 
despair  of  even  our  own  young  girls,  with  their  delicate 
and  well-formed  feet;  but  it  is  well  to  bring  some  of 
them  away  for  ornament.  With  the  addition  of  a  silken 
bag  drawn  with  dainty  ribbons  they  make  charming  bon- 
bonnieres;  and  with  no  change  they  are  pretty  depositories 
on  a  table  or  dressing-case  for  the  numerous  useless 
nothings  that  will  accumulate  in  thes  '  days. 

Perhaps,  after  all,  the  human  beings  who  keep  the  shops 
of  the  bazaar  are  the  most  remarkable  objects  in  it.  In 
Paris,  London,  New  York,  and  elsewhere  we  can  find 
goods  of  all  kinds  and  from  all  lands,  — not  massed,  ns 
here,  but  as  choice   and  desirable, —with   a  rcasonalilo 


SHOPS   AND   BAZAARS.  243 

search,  and  when  found  they  can  be  bought  in  half  the 
time  that  is  required  in  Constantinople;  but  nowhere 
else  can  one  see  such  an  assemblage  of  men  as  are  here 
telling  their  beads,  drinking  their  narghiles,  as  they 
express  it,  reading  the  Koran,  or  sitting  as  motionless  as 
the  great  Sphinx. 

"  Every  one  of  them  is  odd  and  picturesque  iu  his  own  way ; 
every  shop  door  is  the  frame  of  a  picture  full  of  colour  and 
fancy,  that  fills  the  mind  with  stories  of  adventure  and  romance. 
That  thin,  bronzed  man  with  the  bold  features  is  an  Arab,  who 
himself  drove  from  his  own  distant  country  his  camels  laden 
with  gems  and  alabaster,  and  has  more  than  once  heard  the 
whistle  of  the  bullets  of  the  desert  robbers.  This  other,  in  the 
yellow  turban  and  with  a  lordly  bearing,  has  crossed  on  horse- 
back the  solitudes  of  Syria,  bringing  silk  from  Tyre  and  Sidon. 
This  black  statue  with  his  head  wrapped  in  an  old  Persian  shawl, 
and  his  forehead  seamed  with  scars  made  by  the  necromancers 
to  save  him  from  death,  who  holds  his  head  so  high,  as  if  he 
still  beheld  the  Colossus  of  Thebes  and  the  tops  of  the  Pyra- 
mids, has  come  from  Nubia.  That  handsome  INIoor  with  pallid 
face  and  deep  black  eyes,  wrapped  in  a  snow-white  mantle,  has 
brought  his  carpets  from  the  uttermost  western  spur  of  the  chain 
of  Atlas.  The  Turk  in  the  green  turban  with  the  attenuated 
visage  has  but  just  retui-nod  from  the  great  pilgrimage,  where 
he  has  seen  his  fi'iends  die  of  thirst  in  the  interminable  plains 
of  Asia  ]\Iinor,  and,  arriving  at  IVIecca  almost  dead,  dragged 
himself  seven  times  around  the  Kaaba,  and  fell  fainting  as  he 
covered  the  Black  Stone  with  ardent  kisses.  The  giant  with  a 
wiiite  face,  arched  eyebrows,  and  fiery  eyes,  who  looks  more 
ni<e  a  warrior  than  a  merchant,  and  whose  whole  being  is  full 
of  pride  and  ambition,  has  brought  his  furs  from  the  northern 
regions  of  the  Caucasus,  where  in  his  younger  days  he  has  struck 
many  a  Cossack's  head  from  his  shoulders  ;  and  this  poor  wool- 
merchant,  witii  his  Hat  face  and  small  oblique  eyes,  muscular 
and  hard  as  an  athlete,  it  is  not  long  since  he  said  his  prayer 
under  the   shadow  of   the   immense  dome  that  surmounts  the 


24-4  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

sepulchre  of  Timour  ;  he  started  from  Samarkand,  crossed  the 
deserts  of  Bulgaria,  passed  through  herds  of  Turkomans,  crossed 
the  Dead  Sea,  escaped  the  bullets  of  the  Circassians,  gave  thanks 
to  Allah  in  the  mostjue  of  Trebizond,  and  came  to  seek  his  for- 
tune at  Stamboul,  whence  he  will  return,  an  old  man,  to  his 
beloved  Tartary,  which  he  ever  holds  in  his  heart."  ^ 

There  are  many  bazaars  of  which  I  have  not  spoken, 
having  mentioned  those  only  which  especially  interest 
me,  and  are  kept  by  Mohammedan  merchants.  Naturally, 
all  kinds  of  ordinary  merchandise  can  be  found  here, 
suited  to  the  needs  of  the  poorer  classes ;  and  in  the  old- 
clothes  bazaar  the  most  wretched  beings  can  secure  a 
covering  of  some  sort.  Those  who  have  been  properly 
instructed  in  the  germ  theory  would  hesitate  to  examine 
this  bazaar  too  closely,  but  en  passaiit  we  may  say  that 
even  such  a  shop  in  an  Oriental  country  differs  widely  from 
those  to  which  we  are  accustomed.  With  its  Bedouin 
cloaks,  dervishes'  tunics,  caftans,  turbans,  and  remnants 
of  rich  shawls,  it  makes  a  picture  which  reminds  one  of 
some  delightful  canvases  of  Goya  and  Rembrandt,  and 
other  gifted  painters,  who  give  us  the  most  realistic  repre- 
sentations of  objects,  not  always  agreeable,  but  surrounded 
with  an  atmosphere  that  is  deliciously  poetic,  and  makes 
a  subject  that  one  does  not  care  for  absolutely  appeal  to 
his  aesthetic  sense. 

And  alas !  there  is  a  class  of  merchants  in  the  bazaar 
much  to  be  dreaded,  as  well  as  the  middle-men,  who  are 
as  disagreeable,  exasperating,  and  tormenting  as  it  is 
possible  for  human  beings  to  be.  They  are  noisy,  artful, 
obstinate,  and  determined  to  make  you  buy  what  you  do 
not  want,  and  pay  their  price  for  it.  They  flatter  you, 
lie  to  you,  and  cheat  you  if  possible.  They  do  not  seem 
to  belong  to  any  one  race  of  beings,  but  to  be  made  up  of 

1  De  Amicis. 


SHOPS   AND   BAZAARS.  245 

the  dregs  of  various  races.  They  have  been  everywhere 
and  speak  all  languages;  they  combine  to  cheat  you,  and 
wink  and  make  signs  to  each  other  continually.  If,  as 
we  hear,  there  are-  schools  in  the  Orient  where  Black 
Arts  are  taught,  these  men  ought  to  have  diplomas  from 
them;  for  they  carry  their  cheating  to  so  nice  and  delicate 
a  point  that,  in  its  way,  it  merits  the  title  of  a  Fine  Art, 

1  am  told  that  there  are  portions  of  the  bazaar  to  which 
strangers  cannot  penetrate  without  a  guide.  But  why 
should  one  wish  to  go  there,  —  where  the  goods  are 
inferior,  a  sort  of  hodgepodge  of  good,  bad,  and  indiffer- 
ent, and  kept  by  rascals  who  can  almost  make  one  believe 
that  from  pure  sentiments  of  friendship  they  will  confer 
on  him  treasures  worth  a  fortune  in  exchange  for  the  few 
napoleons  he  carries  in  his  purse  ? 

Such  is  the  Great  Bazaar  in  the  very  heart  of  Stamboul, 
a  city  within  a  city,  always  crowded  by  day  and  deserted 
by  night.  Full  of  wonders  and  treasures,  it  imprints 
itself  indelibly  upon  the  Western  mind;  and  the  remem- 
brance of  the  hours  spent  there  makes  one  feel  as  if  he 
had  seen  the  Palace  of  the  Khalcefeh,  and  the  thirty-eight 
thousand  pieces  of  tapestry  of  gold-embroidered  silk 
brocade,  and  the  twenty-two  thousand  magnificent  carpets, 
which  El-Muktedir  displayed  to  the  ambassadors  of 
Constantine  IX. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

THE  VALLEY   OF  THE   SWEET   WATERS.  —  HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS 
OF   TURKISH    LADIES. 

ONE  should  not  fail  to  go  to  the  Valley  of  the  Sweet 
Waters  on  Friday  afternoon.  Writing  this  line 
brings  clearly  before  me  the  scene  of  perfect  enchantment 
that  I  beheld  on  my  (irst  visit  there. 

The  Golden  Horn  and  the  Sweet  Waters  were  literally 
covered  with  caiques  filled  with  women  and  children  on 
their  way  to  the  charming  valleys,  where  they  are  wont  to 
congregate  on  the  afternoon  of  their  Sunday.  The  caiques 
were  so'  frail,  and  showed  so  little  above  the  water,  that 
to  one  standing  above  and  looking  down  on  them  their 
passengers  had  the  appearance  of  sitting  on  the  water  and 
gliding  over  it  as  swans  might  do. 

The  dazzlingly  white  veils  of  the  Turkish  women  are 
the  most  exquisitely  becoming  head-wear  that  can  be 
imagined.  They  enhance  the  effect  of  lu'illiant  complex- 
ions and  soft,  deep  eyes,  without  concealing  anything 
except  the  little  artificialities  which  help  to  make  these 
women  so  attractive.  Would  it  not  be  well  for  ladies  of 
other  climes  who  rouge  and  powder,  who  outline  their 
eyes  and  deepen  their  eyebrows,  to  tone  down  the  crude 
effect  of  all  this  by  adopting  the  yashmak? 

The /(;r^yg/is,j^which  were  formerly  worn  —  and  should 
never  have  been  given  up  —  were  of  the  most  delicate 
shades  of  blue,  green,  rose,  mauve,  and  yellow;  and  a 
group  of  women  was  like  a  lovely  bouquet  in  colour. 
Turkish  women  do  not  walk  well,  as  a  rule;  neither  does 


THE   VALLEY   OF   THE   SWEET   WATERS.  247 

their  dress  give  them  what  in  other  countries  is  called 
"  a  good  figure ; "  and  it  follows  that  it  is  becoming  to 
them  to  sit  down.  Thus  they  look  their  best  in  a  caique  or 
seated  on  their  rugs,  as  they  are  often  seen  when  on  plea- 
sure excursions  or  picnics,  of  which  they  are  very  fond. 

The  Koran  says  that  a  woman's  veil  shall  be  "  a  sign  of 
her  virtue  and  a  guard  against  the  talk  of  the  world." 
That  thought  is  now  a  part  of  ancient  history,  so  far  as 
the  women  of  Constantinople  are  concerned ;  for  one  only 
needs  to  look  at  them  to  perceive  that  in  the  arrangement 
of  the  yaahmak  their  first,  last,  and  only  intention  is  to 
make  it  as  becoming  as  possible,  and  to  display  their  good 
looks  to  the  very  best  advantage. 

The  yashmak  consists  of  two  parts.  One  is  bound  about 
the  head,  covers  the  forehead  to  the  eyebrows,  and  is  tied 
at  the  back  of  the  neck ;  the  other  covers  the  lower  part 
of  the  face  up  to  the  eyes,  and  the  two  are  so  folded 
together  that  they  seem  to  be  but  one.  The  Koran  prob- 
ably contemplated  veils  of  some  thickness;  but  the  ladies 
of  Constantinople  wear  the  filmiest  of  gauze,  and  put  them 
on  so  loosely  that  they  arc  no  inconvenience  in  any  way. 
The  only  exception  to  this  that  1  have  observed  is  in  the 
case  of  women  who  are  no  longer  young,  whom  the  Koran 
Avould  permit  to  leave  a  portion  of  the  face  uncovered; 
but  they  do  not  apparently  rely  upon  the  good  book  for 
their  fashions  any  more  closely  than  do  their  daughters 
and  granddaughters,  for  as  years  steal  on  they  use  less 
transparent  veils,  and  close  them  more  carefully.  We 
constantly  hear  the  legend  repeated  that  the  Turk  does 
not  see  his  bride's  face  until  the  wedding  night;  and 
visitors  to  Constantinople  fretpiently  question  the  truth  of 
this  statement,  forgetting  that  the  women  seen  by  them 
are  all  much  too  elderly  to  be  unmarried,  or  even  newly 
married,  in  a  country  where  girls  are  married  at  eleven 
and  twelve  years  of  age. 


248  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

On  the  subject  of  the  yaahmak^  much  may  be  said.  The 
skill  with  which  the  veils  arc  handled  is  admirable;  they 
are  shaped  like  turbans,  or  twisted  into  coronets,  or  given 
an  indescribable  cloudlike  lightness  to  suii  the  especial 
face  of  the  wearer.  They  disclose  and  they  conceal  enough 
to  provoke  curiosity ;  and  frequently,  I  fear,  they  promise 
more  than  could  be  realized  were  the  yaslimak  thrown  off. 
In  no  case  is  the  truth  revealed;  and  a  well-trained  eye  is 
needed  to  form  an  approximate  judgment  as  to  what  the 
lady  is  really  like,  so  many  are  the  artificial  methods  used. 
Turkish  women  apply  a  white  paste  to  the  face,  put  a  cir- 
cle, of  kohl,  around  the  eyes,  darken  the  eyebrows,  and  im- 
part a  desired  tint  to  the  eyelids.  They  sometimes  resort 
to  patches,  and  in  fact  are  perfectly  acquainted  with  all 
feminine  methods  of  "making  up."  The  young  women 
have  long  throats,  oval  faces,  dimples  in  chin  and  cheeks, 
and  full  lips,  which  are  made  more  pronounced  with  car- 
mine; but  their  tendency  is  to  grow  stout  with  advancing 
years. 

The  caiques  of  which  we  spoke  some  time  ago  have  had 
time  to  reach  the  smiling  valley  of  the  Sweet  Waters, 
where  the  slaves  will  spread  generous  rugs  and  mattings 
for  each  party,  and  the  ladies  will  seat  themselves  in  groups 
beneath  the  spreading  nut-trees,  planes,  and  sycamores, 
and  chatter,  eat,  and  smoke  the  afternoon  away,  while  the 
children  play  games,  and  the  slaves  and  eunuchs  watch 
every  motion  and  satisfy  every  demand.  In  many  such 
groups  one  probably  sees  four  generations  of  a  family, 
and  sometimes  even  more  than  that  number. 

Fruit,  coffee,  and  sherbet  merchants  are  always  en  hi- 
dence  at  the  Sweet  Waters.  A  variety  of  instruments  are 
played  by  the  musicians.  Dancers  and  other  entertainers 
pass  here  and  there,  ready  to  display  their  skill  for  a 
few  piastres.  There  is  a  murmur  of  voices,  a  sound  of 
laughter,  the  music  of  flutes,  and  with  it  all  a  sense  of 


THE   VALLEY   OF   THE   SWEET    WATERS.  249 

unreality  and  dreaminess,  as  if  we  were  beholding  charm- 
ing visions  in  our  sleep,  or  looking  upon  a  stage  where  the 
curtain  mignt  be  rung  down  at  any  moment;  and  if  it 
were,   one  would  certainly  applaud  enthusiastically. 

All  Turkish  ladies  should  go  to  the  Sweet  Waters  in 
caiques;  but  truth  compels  me  to  say  that  occasionally 
some  grande  dame  arrives  in  a  splendid  carriage,  is  C(jn- 
ducted  to  an  unusually  luxurious  carpet,  and  attended  by 
five  times  as  many  servants  as  she  can  possibly  require. 
In  the  distance  a  few  Turks  are  seen,  both  young  and  old. 
They  walk,  or  ride  on  fine  horses  with  splendid  trappings. 
If  they  approach  the  groups  of  ladies,  no  interchange  of 
smiles  or  of  familiar  glances  can  be  detected  ;  but,  curiously 
enough,  if  a  Frank  comes  near,  these  ladies  frequently 
reward  him  with  a  smile,  and  have  the  air  of  ingenuously 
saying,  "Stranger,  I  am  pleased  with  you." 

Such  was  the  scene  at  the  Sweet  Waters  long  years  ago; 
but  now,  while  the  yashmaks  are  numerous,  other  kinds  of 
head-gear  are  also  worn.  The  feridjcs  have  given  way  to 
cloaks,  mostly  black ;  the  caiques  are  fewer,  and  the 
carriages  are  in  greater  numbers ;  in  short,  my  last  after- 
noon there  was  largely  spent  in  regretting  that  all  the 
world  over  one  human  being  seems  to  be  striving  to 
resemble  every  other  human  being  as  far  as  dress  can 
produce  that  result.  Much  of  the  picturcsiiucness  and 
air  of  romance  that  once  pervaded  Constantinople  is  lost  ; 
and  the  afternoon  at  the  Sweet  Waters,  that  once  seemed 
like  a  gala  day  in  Mohammed's  Paradise,  now  resembles 
a  collection  of  picnic  parties  in  the  Prater  of  Vienna  or 
the  Bois  de  Boulogne. 

The  Turkish  ladies  go  about  with  a  freedom  that  ought 
to  be  sufTicient  for  those  of  any  nation.  They  shoj)  in 
Pcra  and  in  the  Mussulman  cpuirters.  They  row  aljout 
in  caifpies  and  visit  their  friends.  On  Tuesdays  they 
assemble  in  the  cemetery  of  Scutari.     On  otlier  days  they 


250  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

go  to  Therapia,  the  Islands,  or  to  the  Sweet  Waters  of 
Asia.  They  make  their  devotions  in  the  mosques  or  at 
the  tombs  of  the  Sultans.  They  witness  the  exhibitions 
of  the  dervishes,  and  they  do  all  these  things  with  a  will 
and  an  air  of  extreme  enjoyment  such  as  Christian 
women  rarely  show.  Query,  does  it  make  one  enthusi- 
astic to  live  in  a  harem  and  see  but  one  man  ?  It  would 
seem  that  freedom  in  the  outside  world  has  the  effect  of 
champagne  on  these  otherwise  cloistered  women,  and 
they  have  the  merry  air  of  children  who  have  run  away 
and  quite  believe  that  "stolen  fruit  is  the  sweetest." 

Having  watched  the  Turkish  women  in  public,  one  is 
curious  to  know  something  of  their  home  life,  and  is 
pleased  to  find  at  the  beginning  of  the  inquiry  that  fresh 
air,  pure  water,  and  sunshine  are  indispensable  to  the 
Turk.  For  these  reasons  the  Moslem  quarter  is  almost 
invariably  on  high  ground,  while  the  spacious  houses 
have  gardens,  and  frequently  fountains  in  their  midst. 

Turkish  houses  are  divided  into  the  larger  haremlik,  or 
quarters  for  the  women;  the  smaller  selamlik,  or  quarters 
for  the  men,  for  the  reception  of  strangers  and  other  hospi- 
talities, and  for  the  transaction  of  business.  Between 
these  two  there  is  a  neutral  ground,  the  maheyn,  from 
which  a  passage  leads  to  the  haremlik.  The  stables,  too, 
are  always  near  at  hand. 

A  large  hall  makes  the  entrance  to  the  harem,  around 
which  are  slecping-i'ooms  for  the  slaves,  and  other  useful 
apartments,  in  one  of  which,  almost  without  exception, 
there  is  an  old  woman  with  a  brazier,  by  means  of  which 
she  makes  the  coffee,  so  industriously  imbibed  by  Turks 
and  their  guests.  The  broad  staircases  and  the  floors  are 
kept  very  clean,  as  well  as  the  apartments,  which  are 
scantily  furnished.  A  hard  divan  on  two  or  three  sides 
of  a  room,  with  small  square  mattresses  in  the  corners 
piled  with  cushions,  is  an  average  of  the  amount  of  furnish- 


HABITS  AND   CUSTOMS   OF  TURKISH  LADIES.        251 

ing  in  the  usual  Turkish  apartment;  and  even  a  fine 
reception-room  has  but  a  small  European  sofa,  a  few 
chairs,  a  mirror  supported  by  a  console,  some  candle- 
sticks, and  a  table  to  hold  the  necessities  for  smoking. 

Bedsteads  are  not  used,  and  the  mattresses  are  taken 
from  the  floor  in  the  morning  and  packed  into  closets 
made  for  this  purjjose.  The  walls  are  usually  white- 
washed and  unadorned.  The  windows  are  innumerable, 
and  make  the  houses  both  ugly  and  uncomfortable;  for 
while  they  are  always  latticed  in  the  harem,  they  are  not 
well  draped,  and  admit  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun  in  the 
warm  season  and  the  cold  winds  in  the  winter.  The 
means  for  lighting  and  heating  are  also  crude  and  insuffi- 
cient. A  couple  of  candles  or  a  petroleum  lamp  furnish 
light  to  the  apartment,  while  the  passages  are  dark. 
Various  kinds  of  braziers  furnish  but  little  heat,  and  in 
cold  weather  one  can  imagine  that  the  curious  tandour 
must  have  been  very  desirable.  This  is  a  square  table 
having  a  footboard  covered  with  metal,  on  which  a  brazier 
is  placed.  A  sofa  runs  around  it,  and  a  heavy  quilted 
counterpane  l)eing  thrown  over  all  is  pulled  close  up  under 
the  chins  of  the  persons  Ijeneath  it,  so  that  the  first 
impression  is  that  of  a  company  of  people  tucked  up  in 
bed.  These  tandours  are  gradually  falling  into  disuse, 
but  still  exist  in  goodly  numbers. 

From  what  has  been  said  concerning  the  palaces  and 
villas  of  Europeanizod  Turks,  it  will  l)e  understood  that 
I  am  now  speaking  of  the  houses  of  Turks  who  are  not 
poor,  but  are  not  in  any  sense  denationalized,  of  which 
large  numbers  exist  in  town  and  country. 

Perhaps  the  bath  is  the  best-made  and  best-furnished 
part  of  a  Turk's  house.  It  consists  of  three  rooms, 
and  is  thus  described  in  a  l)Ook  called  "Tlic  People  of 
Turkey,"  written  by  a  lady  who  long  resided  in  that 
country :  — 


252  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

"The  first  room  —  the  hammam  —  is  a  square  apartment, 
chiefly  coustructed  of  marble,  and  terminating  in  a  kind  of 
cupola  studded  with  a  number  of  glass  bells,  through  which 
the  light  enters.  A  deep  reservoir,  attached  to  the  outer  wall, 
with  an  opening  into  the  bath,  contains  the  water,  half  of  which 
is  heated  by  a  furnace  built  under  it.  A  number  of  pipes 
attached  to  the  furnace  circulate  through  the  walls  of  the  bath, 
and  throw  great  heat  into  it.  One  or  two  graceful  fountains 
conduct  the  water  from  the  reservoir,  and  on  each  side  of  the 
fountain  is  a  low  wooden  platform  which  serves  as  a  seat  for 
the  bather,  who  sits  cross-legged,  and  undergoes  a  long  and 
complicated  process  of  washing  and  scrubbing,  with  a  variety 
of  other  toilet  arrangements  too  numerous  to  mention.  The 
second  room,  called  the  saonklouk,  is  constructed  very  much  in 
the  same  style  as  the  first,  but  is  smaller,  and  has  no  furniture 
but  a  marble  platform,  upon  which  mattresses  and  cushions  are 
placed  for  the  use  of  those  who  wish  to  repose  between  inter- 
vals of  bathing,  or  do  not  wish  to  face  the  cooler  temperature 
of  the  hammam  oda.  This  room  is  furnished  with  sofas,  on 
which  the  bathers  rest  and  dress  after  quitting  the  bath." 

Every  Turk  is  dependent  on  his  bath,  and  the  poorest 
houses  have  an  arrangement  which  answers  its  purpose. 
But  the  Turkish  ladies  spend  much  time  in  the  bath- 
room. They  smoke,  eat  fruit  and  sherbets,  and  repose 
for  hours  on  the  sofas  of  the  bath.  Even  this  does  not 
suffice,  as  they  must,  go  at  least  once  each  month  to  the 
public  hammam,  where  they  meet  their  friends  and 
learn  the  gossip  of  the  day.  These  public  baths  are 
very  numerous,  and  sometimes  extremely  elegant  and 
luxurious. 

A  Turkish  lady  is  completely  mistress  of  her  time,  and 
begins  her  day  with  coffee  and  a  cigarette.  She  will 
then  have  her  bath,  and  probably  after  that  spend  some 
time  with  her  husband,  always  treating  him  with  cere- 
monious respect,  and  herself  serving  him  with  pipe  and 


HABITS  AND   CUSTOMS   OP  TURKISH   LADIES.        253 

coffee,  while  numbers  of  slaves  stand  about  idle.  The 
children  pay  their  father  a  visit,  and  are  always  given 
money  for  sweets ;  and  not  until  the  effendi  leaves  the 
haremlik,   does  any  work  of  the  day  begin. 

Until  recently  the  lady  of  the  house  joined  her  slaves 
in  all  the  household  occupations;  but  now  new  tastes 
have  led  in  other  directions,  and  these  ladies  study 
music,  languages,  emliroidery,  and  other  feminine  accom- 
plishments. 

If  one  of  these  ladies  wishes  to  go  out,  she  must  have 
her  husband's  permission;  and  when  she  is  to  be  seen  in 
public,  the  toilette  requires  much  time,  as  all  the  processes 
that  I  have  suggested  for  beautifying  herself  demand  a 
deal  of  thought  and  care  before  the  yashmak  and  feridje 
can  be  adjusted.  She  is  careful  to  return  before  sunset, 
as  the  husband  usually  visits  the  harem  before  his 
dinner;  and  after  that,  over  coffee  and  cigarettes,  all  the 
experiences  of  the  day  are  discussed. 

If  a  lady  is  not  going  out,  she  has  no  fixed  hour  for 
dressing.  If  she  is  vain,  it  will  probably  be  before  the 
midday  meal;  but  if  she  loves  her  ease,  she  will  defer 
her  toilette  until  evening. 

The  neglige  costume  of  a  Turkish  lady  is  attractive, 
consisting  of  a  long  white  dressing-gown,  and  a  graceful 
head-dress  above  her  flowing  hair,  while  her  bare  feet  arc 
tucked  into  some  fascinating  slijipers.  The  more  cere- 
monious costume  is  the  long  open  gown  of  silk  or  cloth, 
embroidered  in  bouquets  of  flowers.  Underneath  this  is 
a  delicate  gauze  shirt  with  large  flowing  sleeves,  which 
is  disclosed  aI»out  the  neck  and  breast,  while  a  richly 
embroidered  jacket  is  worn  over  the  gown,  and  a  flat  cap 
covered  with  pearls  and  ))i-eeious  stones  is  ])laeed  jauntily 
on  one  side  of  tlie  head.  Ex(|nisitely  ornainenied  sli))pcrs 
comy)le1e  tJiis  graceful  and  fascinating  costume. 

But,  alas !  a  fancy  for  European  dress  has  penetrated 


254  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

even  the  most  carefully  guarded  harems,  and  the  bad  taste 
manifested  in  the  curious  medley  of  garments  and  colours 
that  are  worn  would  be  ludicrous  were  it  not  pathetic.  One 
of  these  manifestations  took  the  form  of  a  yellow  cotton 
gown  made  a  la  priiieesse,  with  a  blue  bodice  over  it 
belted  with  a  gold  band.  With  this  was  worn  a  quantity 
of  modern  coral  ornaments,  and  a  scarlet  turban  loaded 
down  with  diamonds  and  other  precious  stones.  This 
was  the  dress  of  an  attractive  Turkish  lady,  who  wore  it 
with  an  air  of  self-gratulation  that  she  was  able  to  be 
dressed  so  perfectly  a  la  mode. 

One  cannot  so  seriously  regret  some  of  the  changes 
that  have  been  made  in  the  methods  of  taking  food.  No 
one  can  object  to  the  thumb  and  finger  being  retired  from 
the  active  service  of  conveying  food  to  the  mouth,  and 
that  office  being  filled  by  a  fork ;  and  certainly  a  table  and 
chairs  are  far  more  comfortable  and  proper  than  is  a  large 
tray  filled  with  edibles  and  deposited  on  the  floor.  The 
two  meals  of  the  Turks  are  served  at  ten  or  eleven  in  the 
morning  and  at  sunset.  Their  food  is  simple,  not  highly 
spiced,  and  sweets  are  served  between  the  courses.  Water 
is  the  only  drink  permitted  in  the  haremlik,  besides  coffee, 
which  is  taken  with  cigarettes  at  the  end  of  the  meal.  A 
curious  old  custom,  still  observed,  requires  that  while  the 
coffee  is  served  all  the  slaves  and  attendants  shall  enter 
the  room  and  stand  at  one  end  with  folded  arms. 

Turks  are  hospitable,  and  offer  to  visitors  not  only 
coffee,  but  taflon,  a  rich  preserve,  which  is  brought  in 
early  when  a  visit  is  made.  It  is  made  of  fruits,  but  more 
frequently  of  roses,  lilies,  violets,  and  other  sweet  flowers. 
The  service  used  for  this  delicacy  is  often  very  costly,  and 
it  is  presented  by  a  kneeling  slave.  The  coffee  service 
is  also  rich,  sometimes  worth  a  fortune,  and  the  cloths 
which  cover  the  salvers  are  heavy  with  pure  gold  embroi- 
dery.    On    some  occasions  these  services    are  extremely 


'  '~j  ■  •£itBKk^>  • 

A 

m^ 

:\ 

k^i 

^likv^ 

Kc^ 

\ 

j^jFid 

4  ^HMHH^iH^^^H 

^"ifn 

ifti 

w& 

1  i  fiSmk^i^^ 

.^^^HBuM 

%r_ 

4 

r 
i 

>v  ^3^^H 

'i^3Si ' 

A  TriiKisii  Ladv, 


HABITS   AND   CUSTOMS   OF   TURKISH   LADIES.        25o 

simple;  but  that  occurs  when  the  cnteitainment  is  outside 
the  harem. 

When  the  visitor  shows  signs  of  leaving,  or  when  the 
hostess  wishes  the  visit  to  end,  sherbet  is  served,  followed 
by  coffee;  and  it  is  understood  that  this  is  the  parting 
ceremony,  no  matter  by  whom  introduced.  What  a  boon 
it  would  often  be  to  have  a  dismissal  ceremony  that  should 
be  recognized  as  a  perfectly  courteous  method  of  ending 
a  visit  which  was  becoming  tiresome  to  either  visitor  or 
host ! 


T' 


CHAPTER   XV. 

CEMETERIES   AND    FUNERAL   CUSTOMS. 

*HE  cemeteries  of  Constantinople  are  so  situated,  and 
1  so  much  used  as  pleasure-grounds  by  the  people, 
that  there  is  little  of  melancholy  or  sadness  connected 
with  them.  It  is  difficult  for  the  Christian  to  accept  this 
view  of  a  burial-place,  but  it  is  distinctly  that  of  the 
Moslem;  and  the  cypress-tree,  which  is  so  numerous  in 
the  cemeteries,  does  not  stand  as  the  symbol  of  death  and 
grief  in  this  land,  where  it  is  the  ornament  of  the  garden 
as  well  as  of  the  city  of  the  dead,  and  the  guardian  of  the 
fountain  as  of  the  tomb.  We  have  already  spoken  of  the 
cemetery  of  Ayoob,  which  in  its  unrivalled  position  and 
its  arrangement  has  the  effect  of  a  garden  rather  than  of 
a  burial-ground. 

The  cemetery  of  Pera  soon  becomes  familiar  to  foreign- 
ers, who,  living  as  they  usually  do  on  the  heights  of  this 
quarter,  pass  and  repass  it  continually.  It  might  very 
well  be  described  as  a  cypress  grove  descending  a  some- 
what steep  hill,  with  curious  little  stone  and  marble 
columns  scattered  through  it.  Some  of  these  columns 
are  crowned  with  turbans.  From  others  the  tops  have 
fallen  and  lie  on  the  ground.  Here  and  there  the  columns 
are  pointed  at  the  top;  many  lean  at  different  angles, 
while  others  have  toppled  quite  over.  Each  grave  has 
sometime  had  a  stone  at  each  end,  carefully  provided  as 
seats  for  the  two  angels  who  are  expected  to  come  to 
judge  the  souls  of  those  whose  bodies  repose  here.  Occa- 
sionally there  is  an  enclosure  protected  by  a  barrier  of 


CEMETERIES  AND  FUNERAL  CUSTOMS.      257 

some  kind,  a  low  wall  or  fence.  These  are  the  burial- 
places  of  families  of  importance,  and  usually  have  a  large 
column  with  a  turban  in  the  centre,  while  smaller  columns 
cluster  around  it;  and  the  arrangement  of  the  folds  in  the 
turban  reveals  to  the  Turk  the  dignity  and  importance  of 
the  man  who  lies  Ijeneath. 

This  cemetery  is  called  the  Petit  Champ  des  Morts; 
but  the  Field  of  the  Living  would  seem  to  be  a  more 
appropriate  name  for  it.  Here  Turks  smoke,  and  cows  feed. 
Children  play  here,  while  hundreds  of  doves  are  softly 
cooing,  and  many  who  pass  up  and  down  the  hill  find  it  a 
convenient  resting-place.  If  the  stone  on  which  one  sits 
is  favourably  located,  he  has  glimpses  of  the  Golden 
Horn  between  the  trees,  while  the  procession  of  veiled 
women,  and  men  of  various  nations  wdio  move  up  and 
down  the  hill,  distract  the  attention;  and  in  fact  there 
is  so  much  of  life  to  observe  that  it  does  not  occur  to 
one  to  reflect  on  things  past  and  things  to  come,  as  one 
naturally  does  in  a  cemetery  elsewhere. 

To  be  quite  frank,  this  burial-place  is  totally  uncared 
for,  and  in  some  parts  of  it  there  are  usually  a  goodly 
number  uf  dogs  taking  their  naps  and  i)reparing  for  their 
nightly  howl.  One  can  l)ut  pity  these  animals,  who 
belong  to  nobody  and  have  no  homes ;  for  as  the  Koran 
declares  them  to  be  unclean,  no  Turk  will  own  a  dog  or 
give  him  a  shelter.  Yet  Turks  often  bequeath  sums  in 
their  wills  for  the  support  of  dogs,  and  they  are  fed  on 
Fridays,  not  only  at  the  Bayczideh,  but  by  benevolent 
Turks  at  other  places.  The  Sultan  Al)dul  Medjid  once 
exiled  the  dogs  on  the  Island  of  Marmora;  but  their 
services  as  scavengers  were  sadly  missed,  and  the  people 
were  so  much  excited  on  the  subject  that  the  Sultan  per- 
mitted them  to  be  brought  back  to  the  city,  where  they 
were  received  with  a  sincere  welcome. 

Galata,   lying  below  Pera,  is  a  bustling  and  l)iisy,   but 

17 


258  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

not  an  interesting,  quarter  to  the  traveller  who  wishes 
to  observe  Oriental  peoples  and  customs,  for  here  are 
assembled  the  commercial  elements  of  all  countries.  All 
Continental  languages  are  here  spoken ;  and  here  are  the 
Custom  House,  the  Exchange,  the  offices  of  steamships, 
ar.d  various  other  features  which  render  it  a  quarter  to  be 
visited  only  from  necessity. 

But  above  its  disagreeables,  not  far  from  the  cemetery 
of  Pera,  rises  the  stately  Tower  of  Galata,  which,  with 
the  Palazzo  del  Podesta,  constitutes  what  may  be  termed 
the  remnants  of  the  Genoese  rule  in  the  Galata  of  the 
past.  This  proud  people,  who  had  been  here  from  an 
early  period,  escaped  the  massacre  of  Mohammed  II.  ; 
and  although  that  conqueror  rebuilt  their  tower,  and  other 
Sultans  have  restored  it,  the  entire  world  associates  it 
with  the  Genoese.  They  built  a  tower  on  the  line  of  the 
wall  which  divided  Galata  from  Pera,  and  for  centuries 
they  held  this  fortress  against  all  enemies,  while  the 
standard  of  their  Republic  proudly  waved  from  its 
summit. 

The  tower  is  round  and  lofty,  of  a  dark  colour,  having 
a  conical  copper-covered  roof,  beneath  which  are  windows 
so  near  each  other  that  the  apartment  within  is  like  a 
glazed  gallery  or  observatory, —  which  in  fact  it  is,  since 
here  are  watchmen  both  day  and  night,  whose  office  it  is 
to  detect  the  very  first  indication  of  any  fire  that  occurs 
within  the  wide  range  of  their  vision. 

One  cause  of  a  certain  carelessness  as  to  the  conditions 
in  the  Petit  Champ  des  Morts  may  be  found  in  the  fact 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  graves  here  are  said  to  be 
those  of  the  Janissaries.  No  one  regrets  that  they  are 
safely  buried,  or  cares  to  do  them  honour. 

The  odour  of  the  cypress  is  believed  to  be  an  antidote 
to  all  pestilential  vapours;  and  as  each  person  buried  has 
a  separate  grave  and  tree,  it  naturally  results  that  cypress 


CEMETERIES  AND  FUNERAL  CUSTOMS.      259 

groves  abound  in  Constantinople  and  its  vicinity.  The 
central  position  of  the  Pera  Cemetery,  and  the  close 
proximity  of  some  of  the  principal  tombs  of  Stamboul  to 
the  very  busiest  of  its  streets,  seem  incongruous  to  us; 
but  where  life  is  counted  as  so  unimportant  as  with  the 
Mohammedans,  death  is  viewed  with  an  indifference  that 
we  do  not  comprehend. 

Thus  the  tomb  of  Mahmoud  is  close  to  the  Street  of  the 
Divan;  and  the  burial-place  of  this  great  Sultan  echoes 
with  the  noise  of  traffic,  the  cries  of  children,  and  the 
rumble  of  the  tramcar,  as  well  as  the  unending  tramp  of 
horses. 

The  great  cemetery,  however,  and  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  in  any  country,  is  that  of  Scutari,  —  a  veri- 
table City  of  the  Dead.  It  is  said  that  the  Moslems 
prefer  this  spot  for  burial  because  they  believe  that  event- 
ually their  people  will  be  driven  into  Asia,  and  they 
do  not  like  the  thought  of  having  their  bodies  left  on 
the  European  shore  when  their  nation  finally  crosses 
the  Bosphorus. 

The  cypresses  in  this  cemetery  are  magnificent;  indeed, 
wherever  they  grow  in  the  East  they  are  majestic  and 
grand.  One  can  but  admire  the  exquisite  contrast  which 
the  dark,  massive  pyrnniidal  form  of  this  tree  affords  to 
the  blue  of  the  sky  and  the  water,  to  the  fresher  verdure 
of  the  hills,  and  to  tlic  dazzling  whiteness  of  the  minarets, 
to  whose  heights  it  seems  to  aspire.  The  growth  of  the 
cypresses  of  Scutari  is  w^ondrously  rapid  and  luxuriant; 
and  as  the  cemetery  is  several  miles  long,  and  each  grave 
has  a  tree,  the  effect  of  the  cypress  forest  upon  this  hill 
al)Ove  the  Bosj)honis  is  unique  and  impressive. 

There  are  broad  avenues  througl]  this  cemetery  where 
millions  have  been  interred  since  the  Mussulman  conquest 
of  Constantinople.  The  quarries  of  the  Marmora,  which 
have  already  furnished  countless  stones  for   the   graves, 


260  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

seem  to  be  inexhaustible,  and  sufficient  to  afford  grave- 
stones for  the  entire  human  race.  Not  infrequently  one 
sees  the  stonecutter  carving  inscriptions  on  the  columns, 
many  of  which  are  crowned  by  a  coloured  fez,  which  has 
largely  replaced  the  folded  turban  of  former  days.  The 
stones  which  mark  the  graves  of  women  arc  carved  in 
relief,  and  the  usual  designs  represent  the  leaves  and  fruit 
of  the  grape-vine  or  the  flower  of  the  lotus.  At  the  foot  of 
these  columns  a  basin-like  stone  holds  flowers,  perfumes, 
and  milk,  and  often  serves  to  feed  the  birds,  which  are 
here  in  vast  numbers  and  are  an  unending  delight. 

Occasional  turbehs,  or  sepulchral  kiosks,  indicate  the 
graves  of  families  of  importance;  and  in  the  older  part  of 
the  cemetery  many  of  the  columns  are  leaning,  and  some 
of  them  are  fallen.  There  are  also  less  agreeable  sights, 
where  graves  have  been  disturbed  and  reveal  skulls  and 
other  bones,   some  of  which  gleam  like  polished  ivory. 

In  the  modern  portions  of  this  great  burial-place  the 
whole  appearance  of  things  is  rapidly  changing.  There 
are  flower-patches  gay  with  blossoms  and  other  indications 
that  the  same  spirit  which  has  discarded  the  feridjc  and 
dressed  the  Turks  in  frock-coats  is  also  revolutionizing 
the  appearance  of  their  cemeteries. 

The  indifference  of  the  Mohammedans  to  death  is  but 
the  natural  result  of  the  teaching  of  the  Koran,  which  is 
pure  fatalism,  and  declares  that  the  hour  of  death  is 
imprinted  on  the  forehead  of  every  human  being  in 
invisible  letters.  The  common  people  spit  before  speaking 
of  death;  but  in  i)olite  society  whenever  it  is  mentioned 
it  is  prefaced  by  "Far  be  it  from  you,"  or  some  other 
equally  courteous  expression. 

As  death  approaches,  the  Moslem  is  perfectly  calm,  and 
his  fi-iends  rarely  show  any  deep  emotion.  They  gather 
about  his  couch  ;  and  if  he  can  speak  he  exchanges  for- 
giveness with  them  for  anything  that  may  have  disturbed 


CEMETERIES  AND  FUNERAL  CUSTOMS.      261 

their  harmony  during  life.  The  dying  man  frequently 
makes  charitable  donations,  gives  freedom  to  slaves,  and 
bestows  gifts  on  his  friends ;  but  there  are  no  religious 
ceremonies.  No  priest  is  called,  or  any  sacrament  admin- 
istered ;  and  the  only  prayers  are  those  repeated  by  the 
friends  present  to  ward  off  the  evil  spirits  that  are  sup- 
posed especially  to  frequent  such  scenes. 

When  death  actually  takes  place,  a  short  time  is  devoted 
to  the  wailing  of  women,  who  tear  their  hair,  beat  their 
breasts,  and  otherwise  manifest  their  grief ;  but  attention 
is  soon  fixed  upon  preparing  for  the  burial,  which  occurs 
as  speedily  as  possible. 

When  the  departed  is  a  person  of  consequence,  the 
muezzin  chants  an  announcement  of  death  from  the  min- 
aret, and  friends  are  at  once  summoned  to  the  funeral. 

Every  detail  in  the  treatment  of  the  corpse  is  regulated 
by  religion  and  custom.  The  formalities  are  wearisome, 
and  appear  unimportant  and  even  puerile  to  any  but  a 
Moslem,  but  are  all  symbolical  of  something  that  is  of 
vital  importance  in  his  eyes.  Everything  is  done  with 
great  care  and  gentleness,  lest  those  who  perform  these 
duties  should  incur  the  curse  of  the  dead.  The  tedious 
ablutions  being  ended,  the  remaining  ceremonies  are  thus 
described  by  the  author  of  "The  People  of  Turkey  ":  — 

"  The  taboiit,  or  coffin,  is  then  brouglit  in  and  placed  beside 
the  strctclier,  both  of  coarse  deal,  put  together  with  the  rudest 
workmanship.  Before  laying  the  body  in  the  coffin,  a  piece  of 
new  calico  double  its  size  is  brought.  A  strip  al)out  two  inches 
in  widtli  is  torn  off  the  edge,  and  divided  into  three  pieces,  which 
are  placed  upon  three  long  scarves  laid  across  the  shell.  The 
calico,  serving  as  a  shroud,  is  next  stretched  in  the  coffin,  and 
a  thousand  and  one  drachms  of  cotton,  with  wliich  to  envelop 
the  corpse,  are  placed  upon  it.  Some  of  this  cotton  is  used  to 
stop  the  issues  of  tlio  body,  and  is  put  under  the  nrm-pits  and 
between  the  fingers  and  toes.     The  body  is  then  dressed  in  a 


262  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

sleeveless  shirt,  called  kajiet,  and  gently  placed  in  the  coffin. 
Pepper  is  sifted  on  the  eyes,  and  a  saline  powder  on  the  face, 
to  preserve  from  untimely  decay ;  rose-water  is  then  sprinkled 
on  the  face,  which  is  finally  enveloped  in  the  remainder  of  the 
cotton.  The  shroud  is  then  drawn  over  and  secured  by  the  thi-ee 
strips  of  calico,  —  one  tied  round  the  head,  the  other  round  the 
waist,  and  the  third  round  the  feet,  —  and  the  coffin  is  closed 
down.  When  all  is  ready,  the  guests  are  admitted,  and  the  Imam, 
or  priest,  turning  round,  asks  the  crowd  :  '  0  congregation  !  what 
do  you  consider  the  life  of  this  man  to  have  been?  '  '  Good,'  is 
the  invariable  response.  '  Then  give  helal,  forgiveness,  to 
him.' 

"  The  coffin,  covered  with  shawls  and  carrying  at  the  head  the 
turban  or  fez  of  the  deceased  hung  on  a  peg,  is  then  borne  on 
the  shoulders  of  four  or  more  individuals,  who  are  constantly 
relieved  by  others  ;  and  the  funeral  procession,  composed  ex- 
clusively of  men,  headed  by  the  Imam  and  Hodjas,  slowly 
winds  its  way  in  silence  through  the  streets  to  the  mosque 
where  the  funeral  service  is  to  be  read.  The  coffin  is  deposited 
on  a  slab  of  marble,  and  a  short  Namaz,  or  prayer,  called  Mihit 
Namaz,  is  performed  by  the  congregation  standing.  This  con- 
cluded, the  procession  resumes  its  way  to  the  burial-ground, 
where  the  coffin  is  deposited  by  the  side  of  the  grave,  which 
for  a  man  is  dug  to  the  height  of  the  waist,  for  a  woman  up 
to  her  shoulder.  A  small  clod  of  earth  left  at  one  end  of  the 
excavation,  in  the  direction  of  the  Kibht,  takes  the  place  of  a 
pillow.  The  coffin  is  then  uncovered,  and  the  body  gently 
lifted  out  of  it  by  the  ends  of  the  three  scarves,  previously 
placed  under  it,  and  lowered  into  its  last  resting-place.  A  short 
prayer  is  then  recited,  a  plank  or  two  laid  at  a  little  distance 
above  the  body,  and  the  grave  is  filled  up.  At  this  stage  all 
the  congregation  withdraw,  and  the  Imam  is  left  alone  by  the 
side  of  the  grave,  where  he  is  believed  to  enter  into  mysterious 
communication  with  the  spirit  of  the  departed,  who  is  supposed 
to  answer  all  the  questions  on  his  creed  which  his  priest  puts  to 
him.  He  is  prompted  in  these  answers  by  two  spirits,  one  good 
and  one  evil,  who  are  believed  to  take  their  places  by  his  side. 


CEMETERIES   AND   FUNERAL   CUSTOMS.  263 

Should  he  have  been  an  indifferent  follower  of  the  Trophet,  and 
forbidden  to  enter  Paradise,  the  evil  spirit  forces  him  to  deny 
the  only  true  God,  and  make  a  profession  unto  himself.  A 
terrible  battle  is  supposed  to  ensue  in  the  darkness  of  the  grave 
between  the  good  and  evil  spirits  called  Vanqueur  and  Veni- 
cpienr.  The  evil  being  is  supposed  to  be  of  immense  size,  his 
upper  lip  touching  heaven,  and  his  lower,  earth  ;  and  he  holds 
in  his  liund  a  huge  iron  cudgel.  The  good  angel  spares  not  his 
blows  upon  the  corpse  and  the  evil  spirit,  until  the  latter,  beaten 
and  disabled,  abandons  his  prey,  who  by  Allah's  mercy  is  finally 
accepted  within  the  fold  of  the  true  believers.  This  scene,  how- 
ever, is  revealed  to  none  by  the  Imam,  and  remains  a  secret  be- 
tween Allah,  the  departed,  and  himself.  I  have  questioned 
several  Mohammedans  of  different  classes  about  this  super- 
stition, and  they  all  appear  to  believe  in  it  implicitly.  Most 
credulous  are  the  women,  who  embellish  the  tale  with  Oriental 
exaggeration  and  wonderful  fancies  that  pass  description." 

The  funerals  of  women  are  conducted  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  those  of  men,  the  chief  difference  being  that  a 
female  head-dress  takes  the  place  of  the  fez  on  the  coffin. 

The  hasty  burial  of  the  Moslems  has  in  times  of  epi- 
demics caused  the  interment  of  people  who  were  still 
alive;  but  when  the  knowledge  of  this  is  revealed  to  the 
Moslem,  he  calmly  attributes  it  to  the  fierceness  of  the 
struggle  with  evil  spirits  after  burial. 

Naturally  the  absolute  fatalism  of  their  religion  makes 
the  followers  of  the  Prophet  careless  of  the  laws  of  health, 
and  few  of  them  receive  any  adequate  medical  attendance 
when  ill.  They  have  no  curiosity  as  to  the  nature  of 
diseases  and  their  remedies,  and  post-mortem  examinations 
are  unknown. 

It  is  considered  so  sinful  for  ))arents  to  mourn  for  their 
children  that  the  Moslem  mothers  l)ravely  endeavour  to 
conceal  their  grief,  —  all  f  he  more  that  they  arc  taught  that 
if  they  mourn  unreasonaldy  their  children  will  be  driven 


264  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

out  of  Paradise,  condemned  to  wander  about  weeping 
and  wailing  as  their  parents  do.  In  regard  to  children 
whose  parents  die,  the  case  is  reversed.  They  must 
mourn  all  their  days,  and  owe  it  as  a  sacred  duty  to  pray 
continually  for  the  happiness  of  their  parents  in  Paradise. 

It  is  usual  to  distribute  a  portion  of  the  goods  of  the 
deceased  among  the  poor;  and  on  the  third,  seventh,  and 
fortieth  days  after  the  funeral  a  certain  cake  made  for  the 
purpose  is  distributed  to  the  poor  and  to  the  friends  of  the 
family,  bread  being  added  on  the  final  day.  It  is  believed 
that  these  observances  gratify  the  departed  who  are  in 
Paradise,  and  afford  a  slight  alleviation  to  the  sufferings 
of  those  who  are  in  torment. 

The  Moslems  wear  no  mourning,  and  make  no  essential 
change  in  their  lives  by  reason  of  a  death.  Visits  of 
condolence  are  made,  however,  and  friends  and  relatives 
make  a  practice  of  saying  prayers  for  the  departed  at 
regular  and  stated  times.  But  the  general  sentiment  is 
that  whatever  is  must  be, —  that  it  is  kismet,  and  calls 
for  little  surprise  or  regret. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

BIRTH,    CIRCUMCISION,    AND   MARRIAGE   CEREMONIES. 

THE  Turkish  customs  and  ceremonies  which  attend 
the  birth  of  a  child  are  tiresome,  and,  from  our 
point  of  view,  even  cruel  to  both  mother  and  baby.  There 
are  almost  no  skilful  medical  attendants  for  such  cases, 
and  Nature  is  left  to  do  its  work,  save  for  the  assistance  — 
frequently  worse  than  none  —  of  a  class  of  midwives  who 
are  from  a  low  caste,  and  have  no  scientific  knowledge  of 
their  profession. 

The  baby,  as  soon  as  born,  is  dressed  in  a  chemise  and 
a  quilted  jacket.  Other  (juilted  pieces  are  wrapped  around 
it,  and  the  whole  is  closely  bound  with  a  swathe  until  the 
bundle  is  like  a  mummy.  A  silk  cap,  red  in  colour,  and 
decorated  with  gold  coins  and  a  pearl  tassel,  is  placed  on 
the  little  head.  As  soo^  as  possible,  charms  and  amulets 
to  ward  off  the  influence  of  the  evil  eye  are  added  to  this 
curious  a])parel ;  these  consist  of  verses  from  the  Koran 
plaited  in  triangles  and  sewn  in  blue  cloth,  hands  and 
horse-shoes  made  of  blue  glass,  a  bit  of  alum,  and  the 
inevitable  head  of  garlic. 

When  all  this  has  ])ecn  done,  as  quickly  as  possiljle  the 
child  is  placed  in  a  quilted  square  of  the  richest  material, 
with  one  corner  made  into  a  hood.  Wra])pcd  in  this, 
with  a  red  gauze  veil  thrown  over  the  whole,  it  becomes 
quite  unimportant;  and  an  elaborate  couch  is  prepared  for 
the  mother,  who  must  be  most  uncomfortal)lc  in  sjjitc  of 
the  elegance  of  her  surroundings. 

The  state  bed  is  decorated  with  the  most  costly  Oriental 


266  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

embroideries,  silks,  and  gauzes.  Several  long  pillows, 
covered  first  with  rich  silks  and  again  in  cxquisitelj 
embroidered  i)illo\v-cases,  are  placed  at  the  head  and  on 
one  side  of  the  bed.  The  sheets  arc  of  gauze  worked  with 
the  finest  gold  thread.  One  or  more  coverlets  heavily 
embroidered  in  silk,  with  pearls  and  precious  stones  occa- 
sionally added,  and  lined  with  exquisite  gauze  sheets,'  are 
thrown  over  the  whole ;  and  here  the  mother  is  placed  to 
receive  the  visit  of  her  husband  first,  and  then,  during 
some  days,  the  calls  of  friends,  bearing  gifts  and  present- 
ing their  congratulations.  Her  head  is  enveloped  in  a 
red  scarf,  the  charms  against  the  evil  eye  are  added,  a 
stick  with  an  onion  on  the  end  is  placed  in  one  corner  of 
the  room,  and  the  husband  is  then  admitted. 

After  wishing  all  happiness  to  his  wife,  the  child  is 
put  into  his  arms,  and  he  carries  it  behind  the  door, 
where  either  he  or  an  Imam  reads  the  proper  prayer  for 
the  child.  The  father  then  shouts  the  name  chosen 
for  the  child  into  its  ear  three  times,  and,  giving  it  back 
to  the  mother,  leaves  the  room. 

For  some  days  the  mother  is  only  allowed  to  drink  a 
tea  made  from  maidenhair  fern,  and  to  taste  a  sweet, 
sickening  sherbet,  composed  of  candied  sugar  and  spices. 
Not  a  drop  of  water  is  permitted,  and  her  room  is  con- 
stantly filled  with  friends  who  eat  sweets,  drink  coffee, 
and  smoke  incessantly.  Two  days  after  the  birth, 
old  women,  called  Musdadjis,  the  official  bearers  of 
invitations  to  all  ceremonies,  are  sent  out  with  bottles 
of  sherbet  and  invitations  to  a  reception  on  the  next 
day. 

Great  preparations  are  made  for  this  entertainment. 
Dinners  are  prepared  for  the  invited  guests,  and  sherbet 
for  the  uninvited,  as  the  house  is  open  to  all.  The  dis- 
tinguished visitors  arrive  in  groups,  and  send  their  ser- 
vants before  them,  bearing  gifts  of  baskets  of  sweets,  very 


BIRTH   CEREMONIES.  267 

tastefully  arranged,  and  decorated  with  gauze  and  ribbons. 
Bands  of  music  attend  the  prominent  visitors  as  they 
ascend  to  the  chamber  of  the  mother  and  child.  She 
kisses  the  hand  of  the  older  ladies,  and  they  repeat  a 
salutation  which,  being  translated,  is,  "  Wonderful !  let  it 
be  long-lived  and  happy  I  " 

Little  attention  is  bestowed  on  the  child,  and  that  little 
seems  to  us  of  a  questionable  nature.  The  visitors  look 
at  it,  ejaculate,  "Naughty,  ugly,  dirty,"  and  so  on,  and 
even  spit  on  it.  The  Turkish  women  behave  in  this 
manner  because  there  is  always  a  suspicion  about  flatter- 
ing and  complimentary  words ;  and  if  any  evil  occurs  after 
such  have  been  spoken,  it  is  believed  to  result  from  the 
malice  which  the  flatterer  really  felt  while  uttering  her 
sweet-sounding  phrases.  Great  fear  is  entertained  lest 
the  evil  eye  has  been  cast  on  the  mother  and  child ;  and  as 
soon  as  the  guests  depart,  cloves  are  thrown  into  a  brazier 
to  determine  whether  this  has  occurred.  If  a  clove  bursts 
with  the  heat,  alarm  is  at  once  taken,  and  measures  to 
avert  the  evil  are  instituted.  Hair  from  the  heads  of 
mother  and  child  is  burned  for  the  fumigation  of  the 
unfortunate  pair,  while  prayers  and  incantations  are  said 
over  them,  mingled  with  spittings  and  blowings,  which 
are  continued  until  a  fit  of  yawning  seizes  the  victims  and 
indicates  that  the  evil  spell  is  overcome.  If  any  one 
person  is  suspected  of  having  given  the  Nazar,  or  evil 
influence,  an  old  woman  hangs  about  her,  and  obtains,  if 
possible,  a  scrap  of  her  dress,  which  is  also  ])urned  in  the 
room  of  the  motlier  and  child. 

Of  course  this  doscrijjtion  is  that  of  a  ])irth  ceremony  in 
a  wealthy  Turkish  family.  Those  of  less  means  follow  it 
as  closely  as  possible;  liut  in  all  classes  there  is  a  con- 
trolling idea  that  the  mother  and  child  must  not  be  left 
alone,  lest  they  should  be  possessed  by  the  Pciis;  and 
when  a  poor  womnn  is  oliligcd  to  stay  alone,  !i  lnoom  is 


2G8  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

placed  by  the  bed  to  guard  her  and  her  baby  from  these 
uncanny  folk. 

The  next  important  ceremony  is  the  bathing  of  the 
mother  and  child,  which  occurs  on  the  third  day  with  the 
poor,  and  on  the  eighth  day  with  the  rich.  If  this  takes 
place  at  home,  guests  are  invited,  and  an  entertainment 
is  served.  If  it  occurs  at  a  ])ublic  bath,  a  carpet  and  bath- 
ing linen  are  sent  there.  This  linen  is  richly  embroi- 
dered and  sown  with  pearls,  and  is  frequently  worth  some 
hundreds  of  dollars. 

The  company  go  to  the  bath  in  procession ;  the  midwife, 
carrying  the  child,  leading  the  way.  The  mother,  laying 
aside  her  garments,  is  wrapped  in  a  silk  scarf  by  the  bath 
mistress,  and  with  silver-embroidered  pattens  on  her  feet 
is  led  into  the  inner  bath,  the  baby  following.  The  little 
creature  is  first  bathed  with  hot  water,  and  vigorously 
scrubbed  in  spite  of  lusty  cries  of  disapproval.  This 
being  done,  the  mother's  ablutions  are  begun  by  throwing 
some  keys  into  a  basin  of  water,  nuittcring  prayers  over 
it,  and  blowing  into  it  three  times.  Pails  of  water  are 
then  thrown  over  her,  she  is  assisted  in  washing  her 
head,  and  is  finally  placed  in  a  recumbent  position  on 
a  central  platform,  with  her  head  resting  on  a  silver 
bowl. 

The  next  operation  is  very  tedious,  and  the  friends  of 
the  lady  surround  her  and  endeavour  to  amuse  her  while 
her  entire  person  is  rubbed  with  a  sort  of  salve  made  of 
spicy  preparations  and  honey,  which  is  thought  to  be  very 
strength-giving.  This  remains  on  the  lady  about  an  hour, 
and  is  frequently  tasted  (!)  by  those  near  her,  as  it  is  con- 
sidered good  luck  to  get  this  honne  louche.  What  remains 
is  washed  off,  and  the  richly  embroidered  bathing-dress 
is  put  on,  when  the  lady  makes  the  tour  of  the  bath  and 
kisses  the  hands  of  the  elderly  ladies,  who  give  her  many 
good  wishes.     This  bath  ceremony  occupies  the    greater 


BIRTH   CEREMONIES.  269 

part  of  the  day,  and  refreshments  are  frequently  served 
to  the  guests.  Much  is  made  of  this  occasion,  as  it  is 
only  on  the  birth  of  a  first  child  that  these  ceremonies  are 
necessarily  observed.  With  other  births  the  parents  can 
do  as  they  choose. 

One  can  but  pity  a  Turkish  baby  so  h^ng  as  it  is  kept  in 
its  cradle,  — a  narrow  wooden  box  on  rockers,  in  which  is 
a  hard  mattress  and  no  pillow.  Into  this  the  child  is  so 
bound  that  the  head  alone  can  be  moved.  It  is  fiat  on  the 
back,  with  the  arms  straight  down  by  the  sides,  and  the 
legs  equally  straight,  with  the  toes  turned  in. 

Fortunately  this  custom  is  dying  out  among  the  more 
intelligent  Turks  and  Armenians,  who  have  also  used  this 
method ;  but  the  lower  classes  persist  in  it,  and  thus  con- 
tinue to  make  their  children  bow-legged  and  accustomed 
to  toe  in  when  walking.  While  in  the  cradle  babies  are 
occasionally  fed,  and  suck  almost  continually  a  bit  of 
some  sweet  prc})aration  tied  in  muslin. 

But  the  most  objectionable  feature  in  the  care  of  Turkish 
babies  is  the  manner  in  which  they  are  drugged  with 
opium,  poppy-heads,  and  other  narcotics,  by  which  they 
are  constantly  kept  half  asleep,  and  in  place  of  a  healthy 
cry  make  a  sad  little  moan.  They  have  no  appearance 
of  activity,  and  are  rarely  hungry.  Naturally  many 
maladies  are  induced  by  this  treatment,  all  of  which  the 
Turkish  mother  attributes  to  the  effect  of  the  evil  eye, 
and  treats  the  child  with  amulets  and  prayers  by  old 
women  and  sheiks,  who  arc  believed  to  have  a  gift  for 
healing.  Little  faith  is  placed  in  the  advice  of  doctors, 
and  their  directions  are  not  followed.  If  a  child  dies,  it 
is  fate,  —  "kismet." 

Death  frequently  occurs  from  over-eating  in  older 
children,  and  the  weaning-time  is  a  very  critical  period 
for  a  l)aby,  as  a  basket  containing  all  sorts  of  swoots  and 
fruits  is  left  at  its  disposal;  and  many  of  the  distended 


270  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

bowels  and  ungraceful  figures  of  Oriental  children  are  the 
result  of  improper  feeding. 

The  important  rite  of  circumcision  is  conducted  with 
some  strange  customs.  The  boys  are  from  four  to  ten 
years  old  at  the  time  of  the  ceremony,  and  the  poorer 
people  watch  for  an  occasion  when  the  son  of  a  wealthy 
man  is  to  be  circumcised,  and  beg  that  their  sons  may  be 
allowed  to  join  in  the  ceremonial.  When  this  occurs  in 
the  Imperial  Palace,  the  Sultan  is  not  allowed  to  refuse 
any  one ;  and  it  has  frequently  happened  that  the  thousands 
Avho  apply  make  an  enormous  demand  upon  the  public 
treasury.  Other  rich  men  may  decide  what  number  they 
will  benefit. 

The  Sunnet  Duhun,  as  it  is  called,  occupies  a  week. 
On  Monday  the  boys  first  go  to  the  bath,  where  their  hair 
is  plaited  with  gold  threads,  and  hangs  down  the  back  until 
the  moment  for  cutting  it  arrives.  They  are  next  pro- 
vided with  very  rich  clothing,  their  fezes  being  studded 
with  gems.  Dressed  in  all  this  finery,  they  are  led  from 
house  to  house  by  old  women  to  invite  their  friends  to  the 
ceremonies  of  the  week.  The  first  two  days  are  devoted 
to  entertainments  in  the  selamlik.  The  third  and  fourth 
days  are  principally  spent  in  the  haremliJc,  where  there 
is  music  and  dancing  and  much  gaiety.  The  boys  also 
ride  through  the  town  in  procession,  in  the  company  of 
their  Hod j as,  or  parish  priests,  the  family  barber,  and 
friends,  as  well  as  bands  of  music.  On  returning  to  the 
chosen  house,  the  fathers  of  the  boys  welcome  them,  assist 
them  to  dismount,  at  the  same  time  announcing  the  gifts 
to  be  bestowed  upon  their  sons.  These  may  be  lands  or 
any  other  property  that  the  father  can  afford.  If  any  boy 
has  no  relative  to  give  him  a  portion,  the  father  of  the 
chief  boy  endows  him  with  some  gift. 

Meantime  the  women  prepare  beds  in  the  haremlik,  to 
which  the  boys  are  carried  after  the  completion   of   the 


MARRIAGE   CEREMONIES.  271 

ceremonial.  On  this  day  there  are  gay  doings  in  both 
parts  of  the  house;  and  at  times  the  women  all  disappear, 
in  order  that  the  men  may  visit  the  boys.  Many  presents 
are  given  them  as  well  as  to  the  Hodja  and  barber,  while 
the  old  women  who  announce  to  the  mothers  the  completion 
of  the  ceremony  also  receive  money. 

Every  effort  is  made  to  amuse  the  boys  until  they  are 
taken  home,  and  entertainments  still  proceed  in  the  prin- 
cipal house.  Hospitality  is  a  virtue  of  the  Turks,  and 
on  these  occasions  it  is  most  liberally  shown.  They 
believe  it  to  be  a  religious  duty  to  provide  thus  for  the 
sons  of  the  poor. 

There  is  great  mortality  among  the  children  of  the 
Turks.  One  preventive  of  this  is  the  employment  of  wet 
nurses,  who  are  a  highly  privileged  class,  and  their  own 
sons  are  foster-brothers  of  the  adopted  nursling;  or  if 
the  child  of  the  nurse  is  a  girl,  she  is  permitted  to  see 
her  foster-brother  freely,  in  spite  of  the  rigid  separation 
of  the  sexes  under  other  circumstances. 

The  Armenian  birth  customs  very  much  resemble  those 
of  the  Turks,  and  have  many  superstitions  connected  with 
them;  but  instead  of  the  broom  to  warn  off  evil  s])ii'its, 
the  image  of  a  saint  is  used,  and  the  onion  replaced  by 
frequent  sprinkling  of  holy  water. 

The  Tui'kish  wedding  ceremonies  are  burdensome  for 
every  one  concerned,  and  are  in  many  r(>spec<s  childish 
and  inconsequential ;  but  with  orthodox  Mohammedans 
nothing  of  the  strict  custom  may  be  omitted. 

The  bride  and  groom  are  usually  mere  child  ion,  not 
infrequently  eleven  and  seventeen  years  old.  The  alli- 
ances are  necessarily  arranged  by  the  parents  or  near 
relatives  of  these  inexperienced  youths.  A  party  of  the 
bridegroom's  friends,  which  often  includes  his  mother, 
visits  the  house  of  the  l)rido;  and  she  serves  tliem  willi 
coffee,   kissfs  hnnds,   takes  ('in))ty  r-ups,    nnd    dls!ij)])('ai's. 


272  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

From  this  sliirht  opportunity  for  seeing  the  girl  she 
must  be  described  to  the  young  man;  and  if  he  is  favour- 
ably impressed,  his  friends  proceed  to  arrange  all  the  pre- 
liminaries of  the  marriage. 

A  rich  ti'<jusseau  is  furnished  for  the  bride  by  her 
famil}',  but  the  bridegroom  gives  her  a  dowry.  This  is 
made  necessary  by  the  freedom  with  which  he  can  divorce 
her.  He  has  only  to  say,  "  Cover  thy  face  ;  thy  nekijaJi  is 
in  thy  hands,"  and  she  must  go.  But  fortunately  he 
cannot  control  her  property,  and  she  can  take  with  her 
all  that  she  owns.  If  the  husband  has  spoken  in  haste, 
he  can  take  her  back  twice;  but  if  he  forgets  himself  the 
third  time,  she  must  be  married  to  another  man  before  she 
can  return  to  him.  This  law  is  intended  for  a  restraint 
upon  the  husbands  who  too  easily  declare  a  divorce.  Its 
results  are  revolting.  The  husband  hires  a  man  to  take 
his  place  for  one  night.  He  is  usually  old  and  of  an 
inferior  class.  In  the  morning  he  leaves  the  woman, 
saying,  "Thy  liberty  is  thine;  thou  art  no  longer  my 
wife."  Instances  have  occurred,  however,  in  which  these 
hired  husbands  would  not  thus  easily  resign  their  posi- 
tions, in  which  case  the  quick-tempered  husband  can  do 
nothing. 

Like  most  things  in  Turkey,  divorce  is  a  man's  privilege 
alone.  No  matter  what  a  woman  has  to  endure,  she  can- 
not leave  her  husband  without  his  full  consent.  Some  of 
the  cases  for  which  Moslems  divorce  their  wives  are  bar- 
renness, poor  health,  and  a  quarrelsome  disposition.  This 
latter  must  naturally  be  very  troublesome  in  a  harem,  and 
it  is  not  unlikely  that  fear  of  a  divorce  is  necessary  for 
the  maintenance  of  peace  in  these  curiously  organized 
households. 

To  return  to  the  marriage  ceremonies,  the  preliminaries 
being  arranged  and  the  amount  of  dowry  agreed  upon,  the 
legal    requirements   of  a  marriage  are   fulfilled  when  a 


MARRIAGE  CEREMONIES.  273 

Rodja,  priest  of  the  parish  in  which  the  bride  lives,  has 
assured  the  Kadi,  judge,  that  the  girl  is  free  to  marry, 
and  obtains  a  license  for  a  small  sum. 

The  bridegroom's  mother  then  visits  the  bride,  and 
presents  her  with  a  piece  of  red  silk  and  some  sugar- 
plums. The  silk  is  spread  on  the  floor ;  and  standing  on 
it  the  bride  kisses  the  hand  of  her  mother-in-law,  who 
in  return  blesses  the  bride.  The  red  silk  is  later  made 
into  an  under-garment.  The  bride  bites  one  of  the  sugar- 
plums in  two,  and  one  half  is  taken  by  the  mother-in-law 
to  her  son  as  a  suggestion  of  the  sweetness  which  the 
bride  is  to  bring  into  his  life. 

The  next  step  is  taken  by  the  Imam,  a  priest  of  higher 
rank  than  the  Hodja,  who  goes  to  the  door  of  the 
haremlik  with  a  company  of  the  friends  of  the  contract- 
ing parties.  The  l)ride,  standing  behind  the  door,  is 
asked  three  times  if  she  consents  to  marry  the  bride- 
groom, and  her  three  replies  are  heard  by  the  witnesses. 
The  Hodja  then  announces  the  amount  of  the  dowry  which 
the  bridegroom  has  promised,  and  calls  on  those  present 
three  times  to  witness  the  contract,  after  which  this  cere- 
mony is  concluded  with  a  short  prayer.  The  witnesses 
tlicn  offer  their  congratulations  in  these  words,  "May 
Allah  grant  harmony  between  their  two  stars!" 

Thus  is  the  betrothal  completed,  and  the  couple  most 
intei-cstcd  in  it  cannot  see  each  other  until  after  the  wed- 
ding festivities  have  been  held,  which  may  be  deferred  for 
years  even,  during  which  time  no  communication  is  per- 
mitted between  the  affianced  pair.  It  is  not  usual,  how- 
ever, for  many  weeks  to  elapse  between  the  end  of  the 
betrothal  and  the  wedding. 

The  trousseau  of  a  wealthy  bride  is  rich  and  costly. 
It  includes  many  sets  of  bedding,  each  one  having  two 
luattresses,  two  coverlets,  which  arc  richly  embroidered, 
and  covers  for  the  bolsters.     Besides  these    there  arc  a 

18 


274  CONSTANTINOPLE, 

great  number  of  dinncr-trays  with  services,  many  being 
of  sterling  silver.  The  kitchen  utensils  are  of  copper, 
and  very  numerous.  There  must  also  be  furniture  for  two 
rooms,  covered  with  gold-embroidered  stuffs,  as  well  as  a 
collection  of  curtains  and  rugs,  and  a  handsome  brazier. 

The  large  wardrobe  of  the  trousseau  includes  some 
costly  articles,  such  as  fur  jackets,  valuable  shawls, 
expensive  gowns  and  cloaks,  embroidered  slippers  and 
handkerchiefs,  parasols,  gloves,  and  many  PJuropean 
articles  which  have  recently  come  into  use  by  Turkish 
ladies. 

The  Duhun,  or  wedding  ceremony,  occupies  a  week,  and 
is  very  expensive.  Eight  days  before  it  begins  the  bride- 
groom sends  to  the  home  of  the  bride,  with  great  pomp 
and  ceremony,  certain  gifts  which  he  must  provide, 
among  which  is  the  wedding  dress.  In  very  recent  years 
this  part  of  the  programme  is  varied  in  some  instances ; 
the  bridegroom  presents  a  certain  sum  to  the  bride,  and 
she  purchases  such  things  as  he  should  give  her. 

The  wedding  customs  are  slightly  varied  in  different 
provinces,  while  Armenian,  Greek,  and  Bulgarian  mar- 
riages are  conducted  according  to  their  several  religions 
and  traditions;  Init  Turkish  weddings  in  Constantinople 
are  essentially  alike,   and  such  as  are  here  described. 

The  actual  festivities  begin  on  Monday;  and  one  of  the 
most  important  matters  is  the  sending  of  the  trousseau  to 
the  home  of  the  bridegroom.  Many  relatives  and  friends 
gather  at  the  bride's  house  for  this  i)urpose,  and  the 
affair  is  most  carefully  conducted.  The  trousseau  is 
carried  by  Jiammah,  porters,  who  arc  paid  a  sum  of 
money,  and  each  receive  an  embroidered  handkerchief 
from  the  bridegroom's  mother.  The  trousseau  being 
delivered  to  this  lady,  or  to  some  one  in  authority,  a 
party  of  the  bride's  friends  soon  arrive  for  the  purpose  of 
arranging  the  rooms  assigned  to  the  bride. 


MARRIAGE   CEREMONIES.  275 

Being  first  served  with  coffee  and  sweets,  they  proceed 
to  fasten  cords  along  the  walls  of  the  bridal  chamber,  on 
which  they  hang  the  most  important  and  costly  articles 
of  dress,  as  well  as  the  prayer  carpet  and  furred  garments. 
Above  these,  on  still  other  cords,  the  linen  and  lesser 
articles  are  suspended.  All  being  disposed  to  the  best 
advantage,  garlands  of  artificial  flowers  are  hung  above  the 
rows  of  cords.  An  alcove  is  reserved  for  jewels  and  other 
precious  objects,  which  are  placed  beneath  glass  shades. 

The  bride's  corner  is  converted  into  a  bower  by  means 
of  artificial  vines  and  blossoms  made  of  crape  and  silk. 
One  of  these  bridal  rooms,  which  it  requires  many  hours 
to  arrange,  presents  a  gorgeous  appearance.  Rich  stuffs, 
gold  and  silver  embroidery,  and  other  beautiful  objects 
are  so  skilfully  mingled  as  to  produce  an  effect  of  which 
a  magician  might  be  proud. 

This  most  important  room  completed,  a  second  is 
arranged  with  the  furniture  intended  for  it;  and  in  a 
third  apartment  or  hall  all  the  bedding  —  sometimes  as 
many  as  fifty  sets  —  is  spread  on  cases,  and  is  imposing 
in  its  rich  silk,  its  embroidery,  and  its  beautiful  cotton 
stuffs.  Beside  this  the  kitchen  utensils  are  displayed. 
Even  the  dust-pans  are  beautiful,  made  of  walnut-wood 
inlaid  with  silver.  Many  articles  arc  inlaid  with  mother- 
of-pearl;  and  the  candelabra,  stools,  trays,  and  various 
objects  in  ivory  and  crystal  are  in  striking  contrast 
with  the  brilliant  rich  colouring  of  the  copper  kitchen 
furnishings. 

On  Tuesday  the  lu-idegroom  is  called  on  for  the 
expenses  of  the  bride's  bath,  which  is  conducted  with 
groat  ceremony  and  care.  On  this  day  she  must  wear 
borrowed  garments,  the  reason  for  which  I  cannot  learn. 
Before  leaving  the  bath  the  l)ride  passes  three  times 
around  the  centre  platform,  and  kisses  the  hands  of  all 
the  guests. 


276  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Wednesday  is  an  important  day,  as  the  lady  friends  of 
the  bridegroom  then  visit  the  bride.  They  are  conducted 
upstairs  to  a  separate  apartment  from  that  occupied  by 
the  friends  of  the  bride,  and  the  two  parties  do  not  meet. 
Bitter  coffee  and  cigarettes  are  first  in  order,  after  which 
sweet  coffee  is  brought,  and  the  bride  is  led  into  the  room 
by  two  hanowmti,  —  women  of  importance  who  have  been 
married  but  once.  She  first  kisses  the  hand  of  her 
mother-in-law,  and  then  that  of  each  visitor  present,  after 
which  she  sits  a  brief  time  beside  her  new  mother  while 
they  exchange  bits  of  masticated  sugar,  which  symbolizes 
the  harmony  in  which  they  intend  to  live  with  each  other. 

Dancing-girls  and  musicians  entertain  the  two  assem- 
blies of  guests  by  turn,  and  each  visitor  bestows  small 
pieces  of  money  on  them.  When  the  friends  of  the  groom 
are  about  to  leave,  the  bride  is  taken  to  the  door ;  and  as 
the  guests  pass  out,  they  shower  her  with  small  coins. 
Great  freedom  is  allowed  to  children,  beggars,  and  all 
sorts  of  street-venders  on  the  occasion  of  a  wedding ;  and 
there  is  a  serious  scramble  by  these  people  for  the  coins, 
as  they  are  believed  to  bring  good  luck  to  those  who 
secure  them, 

A  general  invitation  is  given  to  the  Kena  ceremony  — 
or  the  application  of  the  henna — which  occurs  on  Wed- 
nesday evening,  although  it  more  especially  concerns  the 
maiden  friends  of  the  bride.  When  the  proper  hour 
arrives,  the  garden  is  illuminated,  and  a  procession  is 
led  by  the  bride  and  the  dancing-girls.  Each  person 
carries  a  taper,  wdiich  lights  up  her  jewels  and  the  colours 
of  her  costume  as  well  as  the  flowers  of  the  garden ;  and 
when  this  is  extensive  and  fine,  the  whole  effect  is  inde- 
scribably weird  and  unusual,  as  the  procession  winds  in 
and  out  of  the  various  paths  to  the  music  of  the  castanets 
and  a  wild,  semi-barbaric  sort  of  singing. 

Towards  morning  the  henna  mixture  is  made  ready; 


MARRIAGE   CEREMONIES.  277 

and  the  bride,  without lier  wedding  clothes,  enters  a  room 
where  her  mother-in-law  awaits  her.  She  shades  her 
eyes  with  her  left  arm,  and  is  seated  in  the  centre  of  the 
apartment.  Her  right  hand  is  covered  with  a  scarf,  and 
then  plastered  with  henna,  on  which  the  mother-in-law 
first  sticks  a  gold  coin,  and  all  present  follow  her  example. 
This  ceremony  is  repeated  with  the  left  hand,  and  the  feet 
are  also  stained  wnth  henna.  While  the  henna  is  impart- 
ing its  dye,  a  most  immodest  and  revolting  dance  is  per- 
formed, accompanied  with  indecent  songs  and  gestures. 

The  most  solemn  and  impressive  of  all  the  wedding 
ceremonies  is  the  girding  of  the  bride  by  her  father,  which 
occurs  just  before  her  leaving  home,  and  is  witnessed  by 
her  mother  and  sisters,  wdio,  as  well  as  the  father,  are 
usually  in  tears.  The  bride  falls  at  her  father's  feet, 
which  she  kisses.  She  also  kisses  his  hands;  while  he 
raises  her,  embraces  her.  and  puts  on  her  the  bridal 
girdle,  while  giving  her  his  parental  advice  and  his 
blessing. 

The  hour  on  Friday  at  which  the  friends  of  the  bride- 
groom conduct  the  bride  to  his  house  varies  from  early 
morning  to  late  afternoon,  but  he  does  not  see  her  until 
evening.  He  goes  to  the  mosque  to  pray ;  and  the  Imam 
accompanies  him  home,  where  a  short  prayer  is  said,  to 
which  the  guests  all  cry,  "Amin,  Amin !  "  The  much- 
tried  bridegroom  is  then  pushed  into  his  house  amid  a 
shower  of  blows;  and  the  company,  being  once  more 
refreshed  at  his  cost,  at  length  leaves  his  house  in  peace 
for  a  few  hours. 

As  the  bridegroom  ascends  the  stairs,  he  finds  in  the 
way  a  bowl  of  water,  which  he  kicks  over.  He  is  then  met 
by  the  Koulavouz,  who  leads  him  to  the  bridal  ai)artment, 
where  the  bride  receives  him  by  rising  and  kissing  his 
hand.  Her  veil  is  then  removed,  and  spread  on  the  floor. 
The  husband  kneels  on  it,  and  recites  a  prayer,  while  the 


278  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

wife  stands  on  its  border  behind  him.  They  then  sit 
down  side  by  side;  and  the  old  hidy  puts  their  heads 
together  and  hokls  a  mirror  before  them,  that  they  may 
thus  take  their  first  good  look  at  eaeh  other,  after  which 
they  are  served  with  coffee  and  left  alone. 

A  very  curious  feature  of  these  ceremonies  is  now  in 
order.  The  bridal  supper  cannot  be  served  until  the  hus- 
band has  induced  the  bride  to  speak  to  him ;  and  she  has 
been  advised  by  her  married  friends  to  keep  silence  as 
long  as  possible.  This  situation  is  most  tantalizing  to 
the  husband,  as  he  can  assume  no  control  over  his  wife 
until  she  replies  to  his  questions.  When  at  length  he 
succeeds  in  obtaining  a  few  words  from  her,  he  makes  a 
signal  for  the  supper  to  be  served,  and,  having  eaten 
together,  the  poor  bride  is  permitted  to  lay  aside  her 
wedding  finery,   and  is  left  alone  with  her  husband. 

But,  alas !  this  is  not  all.  The  tiresome  ceremonies 
which  have  now  continued  five  days  must  continue  two 
njore.  On  Saturday  great  crowds  of  women  —  some  with 
invitations  and  many  without  —  go  to  gaze  at  the  bride, 
who  is  again  arrayed  in  all  her  splendour;  for  the  wed- 
ding dress  is  embroidered  in  pearls  and  gold,  and  costs 
several  hundreds  of  dollars.  Innumerable  gifts  are  made, 
and  various  childish  and  monotonous  amusements  are 
introduced.  Conversation  is  accompanied  by  continual 
smoking,  coffee  and  sherbet  drinking,  while  immodest 
dancing  and  obscene  remarks  are  not  infrequent.  The 
vast  expense  of  weddings  in  rich  families  is  increased  by 
the  fact  that  the  entertainments  proceed  in  the  houses  of 
both  bride  and  groom;  and  the  cost  taxes  the  family 
revenues  for  years. 

When  the  young  couple  belong  to  the  highest  circles, 
the  bride  is  frequently  escorted  to  her  new  home  by  a 
procession  of  mounted  soldiers,  officials  of  rank,  and 
numerous  friends.     The  carriao^c  of  the  bride  is  followed 


MARRIAGE   CEREMONIES.  279 

by  others  filled  with  her  relatives  and  other  ladies.  I 
have  seen  such  a  procession  that  was  really  imposing.  It 
was  led  by  several  companies  of  soldiers  splendidly 
mounted  and  finely  dressed.  The  musicians  were  also 
riding  fine  horses,  and  w^ere  followed  by  still  other 
military  and  civil  officials. 

There  were  three  scarlet  and  gold  state  carriages  that 
were  as  effective  as  those  that  make  the  treasures  of  many 
European  museums.  Each  of  these  was  drawn  by  four 
spirited  horses,  while  the  coachman  and  eunuch  on  the 
box,  and  the  two  footmen  on  the  rack  behind  were  in 
scarlet  and  gold  uniforms,  the  two  latter  with  powdered 
wigs  and  white  silk  hose.  Many  other  elegant  carriages 
filled  with  ladies  followed,  and  the  whole  cortege  was 
extremely  brilliant. 

When  the  bride  is  thus  escorted  to  her  future  home,  her 
husband  meets  her  at  the  door,  gives  her  his  arm,  and 
conducts  her  to  the  bridal  bower,  before  which  they  con- 
l^end  as  to  which  shall  first  be  seated.  Each  endeavours 
to  step  on  the  foot  of  the  other,  and  the  successful  one  is 
thought  to  have  the  right  of  supremacy  and  decision  in 
such  matters  as  mutually  concern  them. 

Possibly  marriages  of  choice  or  romantic  marriages 
occur  among  the  Turks ;  but  they  are  rare,  and  the  con- 
trary is  more  often  true,  while  unsuitable  matches  for 
purely  selfish  motives  arc  constantly  made.  Not  infre- 
quently a  Turk  marries  a  deformed  or  disagreeable  wife 
who  can  bring  him  rank  or  fortune,  knowing  that  he  may 
have  three  other  wives  who  arc  more  to  his  taste,  and  as 
many  odalisks  as  he  can  suppoi't.  It  is  readily  seen  that 
so  long  as  plural  wives  and  liai-ems  exist,  the  women  of 
Turkey  must  i"emain  in  a  i)itial)le  and  degraded  condition, 
the  essential  misery  of  which  is  but  little  affected  by  the 
changes  they  have  hecni  permitted  to  make  in  matters  of 
dress  and  a  few  unimportant  customs. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

SUPERSTITIONS,    DERVISHES,    RAMADAN,    AND    FATALISM. 

IT  is  frequently  said  that  no  one  is  entirely  free  from 
superstition.  One  person  will  not  sit  at  table  with 
thirteen,  another  will  begin  no  journey  or  other  matter 
of  importance  on  Friday,  and  many  are  certain  of  some 
"bad  luck  "  if  they  happen  to  see  a  new  moon  over  the 
left  shoulder.  These  common  and  frivolous  superstitions, 
however,  seem  to  have  no  real  effect  on  the  lives  of  those 
who  cherish  them,  any  more  than  does  the  drawing  on  of 
the  left  stocking  before  the  right,  which  some  sensible 
people  esteem  to  be  a  grave  matter. 

Turkish  superstitions  are  not  so  lightly  considered. 
They  are  far  reaching  in  their  effects,  and  not  a  few 
human  beings  are  permitted  to  die  from  curable  maladies 
because  the  friends  of  the  patient,  and  even  the  patient 
himself,  believe  that  the  illness  is  caused  by  witchery. 
The  most  simple  and  natural  acts  of  one's  life  are  thought 
to  be  concerned  with  the  supernatural.  Plain  and  simple 
reasons  for  what  happens  are  almost  entirely  ignored; 
while  magicians,  spirits,  the  power  of  the  evil  eye,  and 
similar  explanations  are  given  for  all  the  ordinary  occur- 
rences of  life.  These  conditions  are  rendered  as  bad  as 
possible  by  the  fact  that  no  reasonable  methods  are  fol- 
lowed for  the  removal  of  evil  influences  and  the  cure  of 
the  sufferers.  The  incantations  and  villainous  doses  of 
quack-seers  are  the  only  recognized  cures,  and  these 
seers  are  frequently  disgusting  old  women  who  should  be 
excluded  from  all  communication  with  human  beings. 


SUPERSTITIONS.  281 

Certain  localities  are  believed  to  be  haunted  by  such 
armies  of  ghosts,  vampires,  Peris,  and  other  frightful 
spirits,  that  they  arc  shunned  if  possible;  or  if  they  must 
be  visited,  it  is  done  with  fear,  with  incantations  against 
the  evil  influences,  and  with  all  possible  haste.  The 
many  superstitions  which  cluster  around  Mount  Olympus 
belong  of  right  to  the  Greeks;  but  the  Turks  are  singu- 
larly ready  to  adopt  the  superstitions  of  other  nations, 
while  carefully  cherishing  their  own. 

The  deserted  villages  around  Olympus  are  believed  to 
be  inhabited  by  the  ghosts  of  the  Klephts,  which  can 
never  be  laid  to  rest  until  their  wrongs  are  avenged. 
Annually  on  the  day  of  the  patron  saint  of  this  region  a 
pilgrimage  is  made ;  and  the  descendants  of  the  Klephts, 
from  the  oldest  to  the  youngest,  are  brought  here  to  offer 
such  prayers  as  shall  calm  the  disturbed  spirits  of  the 
dead,  while  they  also  keep  alive  the  remembrance  of  their 
wrongs  and  the  desire  to  avenge  them. 

Turkish  legends  and  poems  are  full  of  the  most  fear- 
ful tales  of  horrid  spectres,  of  which  the  vampire  — 
Vrykolakas  —  is  the  most  repulsive  and  frightful.  The 
Greeks  have  an  intense  fear  that  their  dead  relatives  may 
become  vampires.  They  visit  their  graves  to  judge 
whether  they  rest  in  peace  or  not ;  and  if  a  body  does  not 
quickly  decompose,  they  use  means  to  calm  the  unhappy 
spirit. 

To  combat  all  these  dreaded  influences,  the  Turk  ha» 
recourse  to  his  amulets  and  prayers;  while  his  neighbour, 
the  equally  superstitious  Christian,  appeals  to  Christ,  to 
the  Virgin,  and  clasps  his  cross  and  other  images,  which 
he  believes  to  be  effective  in  dispelling  the  presence  and 
destroying  the  power  of  these  uncanny  beings. 

Happily  everything  has  its  opposite,  and  the  Turks  also 
believe  that  good  and  benevolent  i)owcrs  exist  among  the 
throngs  of  supernatural  beings  who  surround  them.     To 


282  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

these  they  look  for  cures  and  for  the  alleviation  of  many 
ills.  Certain  mineral  baths  which  cure  some  maladies 
are  thought  to  do  this  through  the  aid  of  the  beneficent 
and  invisible  beings  who  haunt  their  waters.  In  short, 
each  precinct,  each  fountain,  each  bath,  as  well  as  each 
grave,  has  its  especial  genii. 

The  belief  in  magic  is  so  sincere  that  all  who  have  any 
important  end  to  attain  endeavour  to  add  some  charm  to 
their  other  methods  of  accomplishing  what  they  desire ;  and 
all  misfortunes,  estrangements,  and  worries  are  promptly 
attributed  to  spells,  that  of  the  evil  eye  which  has  been 
cast  upon  the  sufferer  being  most  frequently  regarded  as 
the  untoward  influence.  The  result  is  readily  seen. 
These  people  live  in  continual  torment  through  the  fear 
of  magic. 

The  throwing  of  the  buyu  hoghcha  is  an  almost  uni- 
versal custom.  This  is  made  up  of  earth,  charcoal,  hair, 
human  bones,  and  some  bit  of  the  clothing  of  the  intended 
victim,  all  tied  in  a  rag.  If  it  is  desired  that  the  victim 
shall  die,  this  bundle  represents  his  heart,  and  forty-one 
needles  are  thrust  into  it.  High  and  low  resort  to  the 
huyu  hoghcha  alike ;  and  it  is  believed  to  destroy  or  restore 
love,  according  to  the  wish  with  which  it  is  thrown.  It 
is  said  that  after  Sultan  Abdul-Aziz  was  removed  from 
his  palace  an  almost  countless  number  of  these  bundles 
was  found  in  his  apartments.  Many  were  also  found  in 
the  rooms  of  Sultan  Abdul-Medjid.  The  Valideh  Sultana, 
the  favourites  of  the  Sultan,  the  viziers,  the  chief  of  the 
eunuchs,  and  the  numerous  women  of  the  harem,  all  try 
this  means  of  obtaining  or  strengthening  their  hold  upon 
the  Padishah,  who  believes  in  the  magical  power  of  this 
spell,  and  lives  in  constant  dread  of  it. 

The  antidotes  against  the  evil  eye  are  numerous,  many 
of  them  being  simple  and  harmless,  such  as  blue  glass, 
turquoises,  pearls,  alum,  wild  thyme,  bloodstone,  carne- 


SUPERSTITIONS.  283 

lian,  written  amulets,  a  certain  gland  from  the  neck  of 
an  ass,  hares'  heads,  terebinth,  garlic,  ostrich  eggs,  and 
many  other  small  objects  which  can  be  worn  constantly. 

The  cures  for  those  who  have  fallen  victims  to  the 
unfriendly  glance  are  equally  varied,  and  some  of  them 
are  extremely  disagreeable.  Sprinkling  with  holy  water, 
fumigating  with  the  smoke  of  the  Easter  Palms,  and 
wearing  sacred  amulets  are  the  chief  remedies  employed 
by  the  Christians ;  but  the  more  ignorant  of  the  various 
superstitious  peoples  of  Turkey  employ  many  curious 
spells  against  the  Nazar.  Six  grains  of  salt  are  put  on 
each  eye  of  the  victim,  and  then  burned  with  curses.  Six 
pieces  of  charcoal  are  put  in  a  green  vessel,  and  water 
poured  over  them  while  making  the  sign  of  the  cross.  A 
part  of  this  water  the  patient  drinks,  bathes  his  face  and 
hands  in  the  remainder,  and  then  throws  it  on  the  ground. 
Cloves  are  frequently  placed  on  live  coals  in  order  to 
detect  the  presence  of  the  evil  eye ;  and  if  any  explode,  the 
Nazar  is  surely  present,  and  must  be  exorcised.  Among 
a  certain  class  of  very  ignorant  people,  it  is  customary  to 
string  the  heads  of  forty  small  fish  on  a  certain  day  in 
February  and  hang  them  up  to  dry.  Whenever  a  child  is 
thought  to  be  the  victim  of  the  evil  eye,  these  fish-heads 
are  soaked,  and  the  poor  sufferer  is  made  to  drink  of  the 
nauseous  and  disgusting  fluid. 

A  full  account  of  the  j)reventives  and  antidotes  employed 
against  the  malign  influences  of  magic  and  of  super- 
natural beings  would  requii-e  a  volume;  and  in  the  use  of 
these,  astr(jlogers,  fortune-tellers,  and  dream-readers  ai'c 
constantly  consulted.  One  ol)vious  effect  of  this  widely 
s[)read  and  deeply  rooted  siqjei-stition  is  to  necessitate  the 
greatest  caution  in  expressing  praise  or  censure  of  any 
person  or  thing.  If  you  admire  beauty,  you  arc  thought 
to  envy  it,  and  it  follows  that  you  will  endeavour  to  destroy 
it.     If  you  praise  an  objerf,  fciir  is  nt  once  excited  lest  it 


284  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

should  be  spirited  away,  and  a  thousand  innocent  words 
and  glances  are  misinterpreted  through  the  influence  of 
this  omnipresent  superstition.  Dark-eyed  people  are 
thought  to  be  less  dangerous  than  those  with  gray  or  blue 
eyes,  and  those  with  red  hair  are  always  suspected  of 
witchcraft. 

Certain  remedies  are  thought  to  be  necessary  at  certain 
seasons,  such  as  blood-letting  in  the  spring,  when  the 
gypsies  sell  living  vipers  to  be  used  medicinally,  the 
exact  manner  of  their  use  being  unknown  to  me.  Freshly 
killed  frogs  and  birds  are  used  as  a  sort  of  poultice  to 
draw  out  pain ;  and  many  curiously  ineffective  means  are 
relied  on  for  driving  away  vermin,  with  a  tenacity  of 
faith  worthy  of  a  better  cause.  The  priests  sell  papers 
on  which  sentences  are  written,  and  these  are  nailed  to 
the  walls  of  the  infested  houses ;  or  on  a  certain  day  of 
the  year  copper  pans  are  beaten  all  over  the  house,  while 
serpents,  scorpions,  and  all  small  vermin  are  vociferously 
warned  to  flee. 

One  very  curious  feature  of  these  superstitious  customs 
is  the  way  in  which  Mohammedans  and  Christians,  who 
are  so  at  variance  in  other  matters,  are  agreed  in  these 
practices.  It  is  not  unusual  for  these  widely  differing 
sects  to  visit  the  sacred  places  of  their  religious  oppo- 
nents, especially  when  these  shrines  are  noted  for  their 
curative  effects.  Turkish  children  are  taken  to  Armenian 
churches  to  be  healed  by  the  prayers  of  Armenian  priests, 
and  Christian  invalids  return  these  compliments  by  being 
blown  upon,  and  even  spat  upon  by  Hodjas.  I  have  heard 
of  cases  in  which  Christians  have  taken  their  invalids  to 
the  dervishes  for  cures,  just  as  the  Moslems  take  their 
afflicted  ones. 

So  great  is  the  belief  in  dreams  that  the  most  important 
transactions  are  controlled  by  them.  The  young  girl 
believes  that  happy  dreams  foretell  her  future  bliss.     Men 


SUPERSTITIONS.  285 

of  far-reaching  ambitions  are  encouraged  or  depressed  by 
dreams.  Marriages  are  broken  off  by  reason  of  unfavour- 
able dreams,  and  alliances  that  had  never  been  suggested 
are  brought  about  by  more  propitious  visions.  Indeed 
the  fate  of  a  man,  and  of  all  who  are  related  to  him,  may 
easily  be  entirely  changed  by  a  dream;  and  wily  people 
frequently  make  use  of  a  dream,  and  through  their  own 
interpretation  of  it  accomplish  what  would  otherwise  have 
been  impossible. 

When  one  attempts  to  understand  the  importance  which 
the  Turk  attaches  to  omens,  he  soon  comes  to  feel  that 
this  is  absolutely  the  only  vital  thought  to  these  followers 
of  the  Prophet.  Every  minute  circumstance  of  life  is  an 
omen.  No  Turk  will  throw  away  his  nail-parings,  lest  if 
he  does  so  he  shall  lie  without  nails  at  the  resurrection! 
All  minor  accidents  forebode  disasters.  To  break  a  mirror 
or  spill  oil  indicates  misfortune  close  at  hand;  and  from 
the  lowest  to  the  highest  these  omens  are  constantly  in 
mind. 

When  the  birth  of  Abdul-Aziz  was  announced  to  his 
father,  the  latter  was  in  his  bath,  and  was  greatly  dis- 
turbed that  he  should  have  heard  such  news  when 
unclothed,  since  he  interpreted  the  omen  to  mean  that 
his  son,  a  future  Sultan,  would  leave  his  ])ooplc  and 
country  naked.  We  must  admit  that  this  jiredii'lion  was 
realized,  even  if  we  do  not  accept  the  omen;  and  whore 
such  numberless  superstitions  are  cherished,  such  coin- 
cidences are  naturally  of  frequent  occurrence,  —  all  the 
more  as  omens  are  differently  read  by  different  seers,  and 
necessarily  some  one  reader  of  mysteries  will  chance  to 
foretell  what  will  actually  occur.  Predictions,  too,  carry 
great  weight  with  the  Turks;  and  at  certain  impoi-tant 
junctures  prophets  and  astrologers  are  consulted,  and  if 
their  predictions  prove  untrue,  they  are  in  great  danger 
of  losing  their  lives.     For  iliis  reason  they  use  a  language 


286  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

SO  cunningly  mysterious  that  it  may  be  construed  to  mean 
whatever  may  happen. 

After  the  death  of  Abdul-Aziz  an  important  prediction 
was  made  to  the  effect  that  seven  sultans  must  rule  and 
most  of  them  be  slain,  before  the  Turkish  power  cor  be 
firmly  established.  I  am  told  that  the  present  S  .an, 
Abdul-Hamid  11. ,  is  in  constant  terror  of  cholera,  as  it 
has  been  predicted  that  he  will  die  of  this  plague. 

The  absolute  control  which  superstition  exerts  over 
Moslems,  and  their  unquestioning  faith  in  all  sor.s  of 
supernatural  powers,  account  in  great  measure  for  the 
popular  acceptance  of  the  dervishes  to  the  neglect  and 
even  scorn  of  the  Ulema,  or  orthodox  clergy  and  learned 
men  of  Islam. 

The  Ulema  embrace  three  principal  orders, —  the  Imams^ 
or  Ministers  of  Religion;  the  Muftis,  who  expound  the 
Sacred  Law ;  and  the  Kadis,  or  Mollahs,  who  are  juages. 
The  Sheik-ul-Islam  is  the  spiritual  head  of  all  Moham- 
medans, and  even  the  Sultan  cannot  deprive  him  of  his 
life  or  of  his  property.  This  exalted  religious  official 
wields  immense  power,  and  can  under  certain  circum- 
stances sentence  the  Sultan  to  deposition  or  death.  In 
fact,  neither  of  these  penalties  can  be  inflicted  on  a  Sultan 
except  under  the  authority  of  a  fetvah,  or  order,  from  the 
Sheik-ul-Islam. 

The  dervishes,  who  are  hated  by  the  Ulema,  are  per- 
sistently supported  by  the  people.  Their  power  rests  on 
their  claim  to  inspiration..  They  are  believed  to  be 
miracle-workers,  and  as  such  are  sincerely  venerated. 
Moreover,  they  scorn  rich  and  titled  men,  and  work  in 
behalf  of  the  masses.  This  fixes  the  affection  of  the 
people  on  them;  and  so  powerful  is  Turkish  superstition 
that  even  the  wealthy  and  exalted,  whom  the  dervish 
curses,  often  seek  his  apj)roljation  and  blessing.  Tbe 
boldness   of   the   dervishes    in    their   reproofs    and   even 


DERVISHES.  287 

anathemas  against  all  who  offend  them  is  proverbial ;  and 
their  escape  from  the  consequences  of  their  words  is  owing 
to  the  fear  of  the  masses,  who  believe  in  the  supernatural 
pow  s  of  these  fanatics.  This  belief  is  strengthened  by 
the  'observation  of  the  manner  in  which  these  men 
endi.  J  hardships,  and  the  imeducated  firmly  believe  that 
the  good  or  evil  wishes  of  a  dervish  will  surely  be 
realized.  They  have  unbounded  faith,  too,  in  their  healing 
powers ;  and  the  sick,  especially  children,  are  taken  to  the 
public  services  of  the  dervishes,  week  after  week,  in  the 
confident  hope  of  their  cure;  and  even  Christians, 
influenced  by  what  they  see  and  hear  of  the  wonders 
performed  by  the  dervishes,  are  occasionally  known  to 
put  their  sick  under  the  treatment  of  these  strangely 
repulsive  beings. 

The  dervishes  are  very  numerous,  and  are  of  various 
nationalities.  There  are  many  different  orders  among 
them,  and  individual  dervishes  vary  in  character  as  widely 
as  it  is  possible  for  men  to  do.  There  are  those  of  l)road 
culture  and  enlightened  views  who  chei-ish  naught  but 
good-will  towards  humanity.  Others  are .  men  of  the 
most  brutal  and  sensual  depravity,  which  proclaims  itself 
in  foul  abuse  of  others  and  in  vicious  cunning,  while 
their  lives  are  an  absolute  contradiction  of  the  asceticism 
which  they  profess.  The  wandering  dervishes  roam 
through  all  Mohammedan  countries,  a-nd  are  skilful  in 
arousing  the  passions  of  the  people  in  times  of  war  or  of 
political  excitement.  Many  of  them  join  the  moving 
armies,  and  play  upon  the  religious  feeling  of  both  officers 
and  soldiers  by  every  argument  at  their  command.  Afany 
instances  can  be  given  in  which  some  one  dervish  of  this 
class  has  exerted  an  almost  superhuman  influence  in 
arousing  the  Moslem  hatred  of  Chiistians,  and  initiating 
the  most  frightful  persecutions. 

The  three  importani  biolhrijioods  among  the  dervishes 


288  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

are  the  Mevlevi,  or  whirling  dervishes;  the  RifaH,  or 
howling  dervishes,  and  the  Bektashis.  The  last  are  very 
numerous,  and  deem  themselves  the  most  important 
religious  sect  of  the  whole  world,  on  account  of  the  miracu- 
lous manner  of  their  founding  by  Hadji  Bektash,  the 
same  holy  man  who  blessed  the  Janissaries  after  their 
institution  by  Sultan  Orchan,  and  gave  them  their  name, 
—  Yeni  cheri,  "the  new  troop."  Most  of  the  Janissaries 
became  Bektashis,  and  combined  the  spirit  of  the  monk 
with  the  profession  of  the  soldier  in  such  wise  as  to  render 
them  a  most  formidable  body.  They  have  been  called  the 
"Knights  Templars  of  Islam." 

Strictly  orthodox  Moslems  gradually  came  to  regard 
the  Bektashis  with  the  same  disapproval  that  they  felt  for 
the  Janissaries ;  and  after  the  extinction  of  the  soldiers  a 
persecution  of  the  monks  was  inaugurated,  which  has  been 
especially  cruel  in  Albania,  where  the  Bektashis  were 
numerous  and  popular.  One  of  the  chief  offences  of  these 
dervishes,  in  the  eyes  of  strict  Mohammedans,  is  the 
manner  in  which  their  wives  are  permitted  to  dispense 
with  the  customs  of  concealment,  so  vitally  important  to 
the  true  followers  of  the  Prophet. 

There  is  much  to  approve  and  even  to  admire  in  the 
creed  and  rules  of  the  Bektashi  order ;  but  the  forgetful- 
ness  of  these  rules  manifested  in  the  lives  of  these  men 
makes  it  impossible  to  believe  in  any  essential  self-dedica- 
tion to  a  religious  life,  such  as  is  implied  in  the  solemn 
words  of  their  Sheik  when  he  receives  them  into  the 
brotherhood.  He  puts  a  stone  in  the  girdle  of  the  new 
brother,  which  he  withdraws  and  replaces  seven  times, 
saying,  "I  tie  up  greediness  and  unbind  generosity;  1 
tie  up  anger  and  unbind  meekness;  1  tie  up  ignorance 
and  unbind  the  fear  of  God ;  I  tie  up  passion  and  unbind 
the  love  of  God;  I  tie  up  the  devilish  and  unbind  the 
divine." 


RAMADAN.  289 

Mohammedan  customs  vary  but  little  in  the  countries 
where  the  religion  of  the  Prophet  is  that  of  the  govern- 
ment. Friday  is  the  Sunday  of  the  Moslems,  but  is 
not  observed  with  the  strictness  with  which  Christians 
keep  their  Sabbath.  Moslem  men  go  to  the  mosque  for 
prayer,  and  there  is  a  part  of  the  mosque  to  which 
women  may  go;  but  except  in  the  season  of  Ramadan 
but  few  women  frequent  the  mosques,  and  these  are  prin- 
cipally so  old  that  their  comings  and  goings  occasion  no 
comment. 

The  fast  of  Ramadan  is  a  very  important  feature  of  the 
religious  duty  of  the  Moslem.  It  is  a  season  of  fasting 
by  day  and  feasting  by  night.  The  poorest  and  hardest- 
working  classes  are  most  faithful  in  their  observance  of 
it;  and  it  tells  severely  on  them,  for  they  labor  as  hard 
as  when  not  fasting,  and  can  eat  nothing  until  the  sunset 
gun  is  fired.  Among  the  better  classes  the  fast  is  more 
strictly  observed  by  the  women  than  by  the  men ;  in  fact, 
I  am  told  that  while  the  officials  and  gentlemen  of 
Tui'key  show  an  outward  respect  to  Ramadan,  on  account 
of  the  hold  it  has  upon  the  masses,  they  care  but  little 
for  it  personally.  There  are  still,  however,  many  good 
Moslems  who  devote  a  large  part  of  this  month  to  the 
study  of  the  Koran  and  to  good  works,  to  hospitality 
and  almsgiving,  and  to  the  cultivation  of  peace  and 
charity  with  all  men.  The  author  of  "The  People  of 
Turkey  "  gives  the  following  account  of  some  Ramadan 
customs :  — 

*'  Last  year  I  went  dressed  as  a  Turkish  lady  to  the  eveniug 
prayer  during  the  fast.  It  was  a  strange  sight  to  me,  and  the 
excitement  was  increased  by  the  knowledge  of  the  unpleasant 
consequences  that  would  follow  the  penetration  of  my  disguise. 
The  Turkish  women  seemed  out(;f  place  there  ;  their  levity  con- 
trasted markedly  with  the  grave  bearing  of  the  men  on  the  other 
side  of  the  [):ii(ition.     The  view  1    thus  obtained  of  the  beauti 

n 


290  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

fill  mosque  of  Sultan  Abmet  was  singularly  impressive.     The 
Ulema  in  their  green  and  white  turbans  and  graceful  robes,  ab- 
sorbed in  the  performance  of  their  religious  duties  ;  officers  in 
bright  uniforms,  and  civilians  in  red  fez  and  black  coat,  side  by 
side  with  wild-looking  dervishes,  and   the  common  people  in 
the  varied  and  picturesque  costumes  of  the  different  nations,  — 
all  knelt  in  rows  upon  the  soft  carpets,  or  went  through  the 
various  postures  of  that  religion  before  which  all  men  are  equal. 
Not  a  whisper  disturbed  the  clear,  melodious  voice  of  the  old 
Hodja,  as  he  pronounced  the  Terravi  prayers,  which  the  congre- 
gation took  up  in  chorus,  now  prostrating  their  faces  on  the 
ground,  now  slowly  rising;  you  could  fancy  it  a  green  corn- 
field, studded  with  poppies,  billowing  under  the  breeze.    Above 
were  the  numberless  lamps  that  shone  in  the  stately  dome.  .  .  . 
"  I  have  often  partaken  of  an  Iffar,  or  Ramadan  dinner.     It 
is  very  curious  to  observe  the  physiognomy  of  the  TejviaJds,  or 
great  smokers  and  coffee-driukers,  who,  as  the  moment  of  in- 
dulgence approaches,  become  restless  and  cross,  now  sighing 
for  the  firing  of  the  gun  that  proclaims  the  fast  at  an  end,  now 
indulging  in  bad  language  to  the  people  who  gather  round  and 
tease  them.     As  the  sun   approaches  the  horizon,    a  tray  is 
brought  in  laden  with  all  sorts  of  sweets,  salads,  salt-fish,  Ram- 
adan cakes,  fruit  and  olives,   contained  in  the  tiniest  coffee- 
saucers,  together  with  goblets  of  delicious  iced  sherbet.     When 
the  o-un  is  fired,  every  one  utters  a  Bismillah  and  takes  an  olive, 
that  fruit  being  considered  five  times  more  blessed  than  watet 
to  break  the  fast  with.     After  the  contents  of  the  tray  have 
been  sparingly  partaken  of,  dinner  is  announced,  and  all  gather 
i-ound  the  sofra;  few,  however,  eat  with  appetite,  or  relish  the 
dinner  half  so  much  as  they  do  the  cup  of  coffee  and  cigarettes 
that  follow. 

"  During  Ramadan  night  is  turned  into  day,  and  the  streets 
then  remind  one  of  carnival  time  in  Catholic  countries.  The 
wealthy  sit  up  all  night,  receiving  and  returning  calls,  giving 
evening  parties,  spending  the  time  in  a  round  of  feasts  and 
entertainments.  At  Stamboul,  when  the  prayer  of  the  Terravi 
—  which  is  recited   two  hours  after  sunset  —  is  over  in  the 


RAMADAN.  291 

mosque,  all  the  people  betake  themselves  to  the  esplanade  of 
the  Sulimanieh,  and  hundreds  of  elegant  carriages  containing 
Turkish  beauties  may  be  seen  cutting  their  way  through  the 
dense  crowd  of  promenaders.  The  bazaars  are  illuminated, 
and  all  the  fruit  and  refreshment  shops  are  open.  Eating, 
drinking  sherbet,  and  smoking  is  the  order  of  the  evening, 
besides  a  great  amount  of  flirtation.  I  cannot  say  that  there  is 
much  taste  or  refinement  in  this  unusual  but  tacitly  recognized 
passing  intercourse.  The  ladies  all  appear  in  high  spirits,  and 
tolerate,  and  even  seem  amused  by,  the  acts  of  gross  imperti- 
nence to  whicli  they  are  subjected  by  male  passers-by.  Some 
of  the  fast  men  and  mauvais  si/jeta  indulge  in  acts  and  languao^e 
that  would  certainly  cause  the  interference  of  the  police  in  an 
orderly  society.  .  .  .  The  little  respect  paid  to  women  in  this 
indiscriminate  melee,  where  the  dignity  of  the  Sultana  was  no 
more  regarded  than  the  modesty  of  the  lowly  pedestrian,  struck 
me  forcibly.  It  made  the  greater  impression  on  me  as  it  con- 
trasted strongly  with  the  respect  paid  to  her  under  other  cir- 
cumstances. 

"Three  hours  before  dawn,  drums  are  beaten  and  verses  sung 
through  the  streets  to  warn  the  people  to  prepare  for  the  sahor, 
or  supper,  after  which  an  hour's  leisure  is  accorded  for  smoking 
and  coffee-drinking,  when  the  firing  of  a  gun  announces  the 
moment  for  rinsing  the  mouth  and  sealing  it  against  food  until 
sunset.  All  Itiisiness  is  put  oflf  by  the  wealthy  diu-ing  the  day, 
which  is  filled  u[)  by  sleep  ;  while  the  poor  go  through  the  day's 
work  unrefreshed." 

Pilgrimages  arc  not  now  considered  by  the  Moslems 
so  obligatory  as  tliey  formerly  wei-e;  and  yet  the  assem- 
bling and  departure  of  the  pilgrims  wliich  occurs  fifteen 
days  before  the  beginning  of  Ramadan  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  sights  for  the  stranger  in  Constantinople. 
The  great  pilgrimage  embraces  visits  to  Damascus,  Jeru- 
salem, Mecca,  and  Medina,  — the  most  sacred  spots  of  <hc 
whole  earth  to  the  Mohammedan.  Those  w^ho  arc  will- 
ing to  undergo  the  hardships,  fatigues,  and  dangers  of 


292  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

this  terrible  journey  receive  certain  aid  from  the  govern- 
ment, in  the  way  of  free  passes  and  certain  other  privi- 
leges. Returning,  they  must  bear  a  special  tattoo-mark 
on  the  arm  and  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger,  which 
is  the  sign  and  seal  of  the  faithful  performance  of  this 
pilgrimage.  We  have  not  space  for  any  adequate  descrip- 
tion of  this  journey,  to  which  many  lives  are  annually 
sacrificed. 

If  the  religions  of  the  world  are  examined,  it  is  difficult 
to  find  one  that  has  no  hint  of  aliclicf  in  an  inevitable  des- 
tiny ;  but  it  has  been  left  for  the  followers  of  Mohammed 
gradually  to  assume,  teach,  and  act  upon  the  principle 
that  if  fate  —  kismet  —  has  ordained  a  thing,  no  human 
effort  can  avert  it.  The  Prophet  did  not  teach  this  doc- 
trine in  its  present  absolutism;  for  to-day,  in  Turkey, 
whatever  occurs,  from  the  gravest  matter  which  affects 
the  entire  nation  to  the  most  insignificant  detail  in  the 
life  of  the  humblest  individual,  is  due  to  kismet;  and  kis- 
met alone  is  regarded  as  the  cause  of  everything  alike. 

The  demoralizing  effect  of  this  doctrine  in  personal  life 
is  easily  apprehended.  No  one  strives  energetically  to 
accomplish  anything,  no  matter  how  capable  he  may  be 
or  how  ambitious,  because  of  this  upas-tree  of  doctrine 
which  forever  hangs  over  him.  He  does  nothing;  he 
simply  smokes,  and  waits  to  observe  what  his  kismet  will 
bring  to  him. 

Taking  a  wider  view,  that  which  renders  the  individual 
of  no  account,  works  out  the  same  result  in  the  nation ; 
and  to  this  blind  and  absolute  belief  in  kismet  may  be 
largely  attributed  the  inefficiency  and  weakness  of  the 
descendants  of  the  great  Orchan,  Mohammed  II.,  and 
Suleiman  the  Magnificent,  who,  Moslems  as  they  were, 
submitted  to  no  adverse  fate  without  bravely  struggling 
against  it. 

The  one  endeavour  of  the  absolute  fatalist  is  to  stifle  all 


FATALISM.  293 

emotion;  to  accei)t  with  equanimity  both  good  and  bad 
fortune;  to  attain  to  the  full  spirit  of  the  word  "Moslem," 
which  may  be  translated  "  resigned ; "  and  if  he  succeeds 
in  his  design,  he  becomes  less  even  than  the  beasts,  who 
strive  to  feed  themselves  rather  than  starve,  and  to 
protect  their  young  rather  than  let  them  die  by  any 
untoward  fate. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

EDUCATION    IN    CONSTANTINOPLE. 

THE  evil  influences  of  the  harem  system  are  by  no 
means  exhausted  in  their  effects  upon  the  mothers, 
but  are  visited  upon  the  chiklren  with  a  double  severity. 
The  influence  that  a  mother  should  have  over  her  chil- 
dren in  leading  them  to  all  that  is  good  and  great  is 
acknowledged  by  all  civilized  nations;  but  what  can  be 
expected  from  mothers  who  are  as  degraded  as  Turkish 
mothers  ? 

In  many  directions  these  women  are  as  childish  and 
as  much  in  need  of  guidance  as  the  children  themselves. 
Not  infrequently  the  disobedience  or  misbeliaviour  of  the 
child  simply  arouses  the  temper  of  the  mother,  and  a 
brawl  ensues ;  they  strike,  abuse,  and  even  curse  each 
other  with  great  energy.  And  little  boys  learn  at  an 
early  age  to  hold  themselves  superior  to  every  living 
member  of  the  opposite  sex,  their  own  mothers  being 
singularly  unimportant.  In  the  presence  of  the  father, 
and  other  men,  among  the  better  classes,  children  are 
quiet,  and  even  unnaturally  sedate ;  but  at  no  other  time 
are  they  under  any  restraint.  Neither  is  there  any 
proper  method  or  system  in  the  care  bestowed  on  chil- 
dren. They  have  no  regular  hours  for  sleep,  their  phys- 
ical cleanliness  is  much  neglected,  and  they  are  dressed 
in  the  most  slovenly  and  careless  manner;  while  no  wis- 
dom is  used  in  the  regulation  of  their  diet,  and  they  are 
absolutely  objects  of  pity,  and  fit  subjects  for  diseases  of 
all  sorts.     They  are  also  under  the  worst  of  moral  influ- 


EDUCATION  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE.  295 

ences,  constantly  witnessing  deceit  and  the  exhibition 
of  the  most  contemptible  traits  of  character,  while  they 
listen  to  vulgar  and  disgusting  conversation,  nothing 
being  withheld  on  account  of  their  presence.  Such  is 
the  life  of  children  whose  parents  are  opposed  to  all 
change,  and  object  to  the  companionship  and  influence 
of  Europeans. 

In  recent  years,  however,  there  have  been  instances  in 
which  the  little  girls  in  Turkish  families  have  been  given 
a  slight  education.  They  have  been  taught  to  use  a 
needle,  and  to  occupy  themselves  in  certain  feminine 
ways;  Ijut  the  Turks  so  fear  a  spirit  of  independence  or 
insubordination  in  their  daughters,  that  progress  in  this 
direction  is  discouragingly  slow.  Comparatively  few 
Turkish  girls  arc  provided  with  European  governesses, 
taught  European  languages,  or  given  anything  that  merits 
the  name  of  education. 

The  boys  of  the  best  Turkish  families  have  been  sent 
to  study  in  Europe  for  some  years,  and  are  frequently 
fond  of  study  and  quick  to  acquire  knowledge.  J>ut  it 
also  happens  that  these  boys  prefer  the  study  of  European 
life  before  that  of  the  schools;  and  their  acquaintance 
with  ballet-dancers  and  other  people  who  anuisc  tlieui 
and  help  to  spend  the  liberal  supplies  of  money  wliich 
they  receive,  is  far  more  intimate  than  with  the  studies 
they  are  supposed  to  pursue. 

Returning  to  Turkey,  they  are  anything  but  useful  men ; 
for  if  they  iticliuo  to  be  good  Mohannncdans,  it  is  almost 
impossible  for  them  to  approve  of  such  progressive  move- 
ments as  would  l)enerit  their  country.  If,  on  the  other 
hand,  they  have  essentially  thrown  off  the  Moslem  religion, 
they  have  acquired  nothing  of  serious  value  with  which 
to  replace  it;  they  are  simj)ly  sceptics, —  or  perhaps  that 
word  they  so  freely  apply  to  Christians  —  Giamir, 
infidel  —  better  expresses  what  they  have  become.     Ilav- 


296  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

ing  thus  no  principle  or  governing  motive  of  their  own, 
they  are  incapable  of  conferring  benefits  on  others  or 
of  advancing  the  interests  of  their  country  and  their 
people. 

Within  the  present  century  attempts  have  been  made 
to  raise  the  standard  of  education  in  Turkey.  No  schools 
worth  mentioning  exist  in  country  villages,  but  in  Con- 
stantinople and  in  the  chief  cities  of  Turkey  there  are 
preparatory  schools  in  which  the  elements  of  mathematics, 
/geography,  and  the  history  of  Turkey  are  taught.  From 
these  the  pupils  pass  to  a  higher  grade  of  schools,  also 
preparatory,  in  which  gratuitous  instruction  is  given  in 
such  branches  as  shall  fit  them  for  the  professions  which 
they  propose  to  follow.  The  courses  in  these  schools 
require  from  three  to  five  years  of  study,  and  are  followed 
by  the  marine,  artillery,  and  medical  schools.  There  are 
also,  at  Constantinople,  schools  for  teaching  foreign  lan- 
guages to  those  whose  employment  in  government  offices 
demands  such  knowledge;  others  for  the  instruction  of 
teachers  for  the  various  schools,  for  mechanical  teaching, 
and  certain  other  technical  instruction. 

But,  alas !  the  wise  plan  of  these  institutions,  originat- 
ing with  the  sagacious  Sultan  Mahmoud  and  inaugurated 
by  him  with  great  difficulty,  has  never  been  carried  out. 
The  students  are  not  properly  disciplined,  the  professors 
are  not  fully  equippecj  for  their  work,  and  there  has  been 
no  systematic  management  of  these  schools ;  neither  has 
their  number  been  increased.  They  have  not  been  intro- 
duced throughout  the  country ;  and,  in  fact,  what  is  dig- 
nified by  the  name  of  the  "Turkish  System  of  Education" 
is  a  poor  apology  for  anything  that  is  known  by  so  com- 
prehensive a  title. 

The  few  schools  which  exist  for  Moslem  girls  labour 
under  grave  difficulties.  The  pupils,  on  their  entrance 
to  the  school,  are  often  engaged  to  be  married,  and  hare 


EDUCATION   IN   CONSTANTINOPLE.  297 

SO  short  a  time  for  study  that  if  they  acquire  a  scanty 
knowledge  of  reading  and  writing  it  is  most  encouraging. 
It  is  certainly  to  their  advantage  to  be  taught  sewing, 
crochet-work,  and  the  like  industries ;  and  in  cases  where 
they  are  sent  to  school  at  an  earlier  age,  they  learn  what 
seems  like  a  vast  store  of  wisdom  to  their  female  relatives 
who  are  in  a  state  of  absolute  ignorance. 

In  1868  those  enlightened  men  Ali  Pasha  and  Fouad 
Pasha  determined  to  found  a  lyceum,  in  which  the 
youths  of  all  races  and  creeds  should  be  educated  together, 
with  the  aim  of  establishing  more  friendly  relations  be- 
tween the  different  peoples  who  are  subjects  of  the  Sultan. 
It  was  a  bold  scheme  and  a  wise  one,  but  the  antagonisms 
which  it  aroused  were  not  easily  overcome.  In  spite  of 
the  benefit  which  should  have  resulted  from  the  teaching 
of  the  physical  sciences,  history,  literature,  and  both 
classic  and  modern  languages,  the  race  prejudices  and 
the  different  religions  of  the  pupils  constantly  prevented 
the  realization  of  the  grand  inHucnces  for  which  the 
founders  of  the  Lyceum,  its  French  Director,  and  his 
teachers  had  so  enthusiastically  hoped. 

The  Mobil mmcdans  wished  the  Koran  to  be  read,  and 
the  fasts  and  feasts  which  it  enjoins  to  be  strictly  ob- 
served. Naturally,  the  Jews  and  Christians  could  not 
agree  about  their  food  and  other  matters  of  vital  impor- 
tance to  the  former.  Greeks,  Armenians,  Bulgarians,  and 
Roman  Catholics  each  had  their  special  grievances,  all 
of  which  were  of  great  moment  to  each  separate  sect. 
The  vexatious  question  as  to  what  Day  of  Rest  should  be 
observed  was  a  crucial  matter,  as  well  as  that  of  the 
observance  of  festivals,  both  national  and  ndigious. 

However,  in  spite  of  all  this,  the  Lyceum  hold  its  own, 
had  hundreds  of  students,  and  showed  satisfactory  results 
during  the  lives  of  its  founders;  but  its  success  was  never 
sufficient  to  warrant  the  fulfilment  of  the  original  idea, 


298  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

which  was  to  found  like  institutions  in  all  the  chief  towns 
of  Turkey. 

The  Mosque-Colleges,  called  MedressSs,  and  supported 
by  the  Mosques,  are  for  the  special  education  of  priests 
of  all  classes.  We  are  told  t^hat  Language  and  Theology 
are  the  branches  taught;  but  to  the  Arab  the  word  "Lan- 
guage" includes  many  things :  poetry,  rhetoric,  grammar, 
and  still  other  branches,  may  all  be  included  in  this  one 
study  of  Language.  Until  something  better  can  be  estab- 
lished in  Turkey,  the  Medresses  are  very  important  in 
their  influence  in  that  country ;  for  not  only  the  priests, 
but  the  scholars  of  all  professions  in  modern  times,  have 
been  instructed  in  these  Mosque-Colleges. 

As  in  every  country  of  the  world,  so  in  Turkey,  the 
Roman  Catholics  have  established  schools,  which  are  con- 
ducted on  their  usual  principle,  and  are  chiefly  directed 
to  the  religious  instruction  of  their  pupils  rather  than  to 
the  imparting  of  what  is  known  as  "book  knowledge." 

The  Protestants,  especially  the  Americans,  have  made 
a  greater  success  in  the  two  principal  colleges  —  one 
for  each  sex — whi«h  they  have  founded  at  Constanti- 
nople. 

In  1871  there  was  established  here,  by  some  American 
women,  a  High  School  for  girls,  which  so  prospered,  and 
so  clearly  proved  that  there  was  a  field  for  the  broader 
education  of  women  in  Turkey,  that  in  1890  the  "Amer- 
ican College  for  Girls  "  was  founded  by  Act  of  the  Com- 
monwealth of  Massachusetts,  where  the  young  women  of 
the  Orient  are  offered  opportunities  for  intellectual  cul- 
ture, and  for  the  formation  of  a  character  symmetrical 
with  high  moral  and  intellectual  standards. 

The  Corporation  of  the  College  is  authorized  to  grant 
such  testimonials  and  confer  such  honours  and  degrees  as 
are  conferred  by  the  various  institutions  of  learning  in 
Masssachusetts. 


EDUCATION  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE.  299 

The  college  is  located  on  the  Asiatic  shore  of  the 
Bosphorus,  and  has  a  charming  site.  The  first  building 
which  was  erected  here  is  called  Bowker  Hall,  and  was 
built  in  1876;  in  1882  Barton  Hall  was  added.  There 
are  four  acres  in  the  grounds  of  the  college,  which  are 
laid  out  with  skill  and  taste,  and  command  extensive 
views  of  the  Bosphorus  and  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 

This  college  has  all  the  departments  necessary  to  such 
an  institution;  its  social  life  is  pleasant,  and  of  great 
advantage  to  the  girls  who  gather  here,  where  teachers 
and  pupils  make  a  well-ordered  family.  The  curriculum 
is  extensive;  and  although  the  language  of  the  college  is 
English,  the  courses  in  languages  are  necessarily  many, 
as  the  students  represent  eight  or  ten  different  nationali- 
ties, embracing  Armenians,  Bulgarians,  Russians,  Greeks, 
French,  Germans,  English,  Americans,  and  Turks.  Pujjils 
come  from  great  distances,  —  Russia,  Roumania,  Greece, 
and  Macedonia,  as  well  as  the  most  distant  parts  of  the 
Turkish  Empire ;  while  the  attendance  from  Constantinople 
is  always  large. 

In  1893-94  there  were  one  hundred  and  seventy-three 
students,  ninety-five  of  whom  were  board iug  pupils  and 
completely  under  the  influences  of  the  college.  There 
are  preparatory  courses  which  admit  girls  at  an  early  age, 
and  even  classes  for  children  which  arc  under  the  over- 
sight of  the  college.  Thus  a  little  girl  may  be  put  under 
the  training  and  influence  of  the  college,  and  there  grow 
into  young  womanhood. 

A  visit  to  this  institution  is  a  true  pleasure,  and  Com- 
mencement Day  is  an  important  occasion;  the  large  audi- 
ence which  gathers  is  of  unusual  interest  by  reason  of  the 
many  nationalities  of  which  it  is  composed.  In  June, 
1894,  there  were  present  the  iT|)i-csentatives  of  the  Sul- 
tan, of  the  Ministry  of  Pnhlic  Insf  ruclion,  and  of  vari- 
ous legations,   as  well  as  of  llolx.Tt   College,   and  of  the 


300  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

I)eople  of  the  highest  position  and  widest  influence  in 
Constantinople. 

The  last-named  college,  founded  by  Christopher  R. 
Robert  of  New  York  in  1863,  has  become  an  acknowl- 
edged and  important  factor  in  the  life  of  the  young  men 
of  Eastern  Europe  and  the  Turkish  Empire.  This  col- 
lege has  raised  the  standard  of  national  education  in  that 
part  of  the  world,  and  has  been  largely  instrumental  in 
establishing  the  Bulgarian  nationality. 

More  than  three  hundred  students  had  graduated  here 
in  1894,  and  men  have  gone  out  from  Robert  College  wdio 
are  filling  posts  of  responsibility  in  all  walks  of  life,  —  in 
Church  and  State,  in  the  various  professions,  in  the 
armies  of  their  several  countries,  and  in  commercial  and 
agricultural  pursuits.  About  two  thousand  students, 
embracing  sixteen  nationalities,  have  attended  Robert 
College ;  and  a  recent  graduating  class,  which  numbered 
twenty-two,  delivered  orations  in  six  languages. 

Robert  College  has  as  fine  a  site  as  any  educational 
institution  in  the  world.  It  is  on  the  hill  which  over- 
looks the  Castle  of  Roumelia,  perhaps  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  many  beautiful  sites  on  the  Bosphorus.  The  report 
of  the  college  for  1893  says:  — 

"The  people  of  the  East  have  responded  heartily  to  this 
mauifestatiou  of  American  sympathy,  and  given  the  college 
their  confidence  and  support,  so  that  its  influence  has  been 
constantly  extending  in  full  harmony  with  the  educational 
development  of  the  country.  .  .  .  The  college  has  existed 
thirty  years,  and  its  reputation  now  rests  upon  the  character 
of  its  graduates  and  the  work  they  are  doing  in  the  world." 

If  a  boy  enters  the  preparatory  department  and  finishes 
the  course,  he  is  eight  years  in  the  college,  —  years  in 
which  his  character  is  formed,  his  standards  fixed,  and 
his   best   characteristics  and   tastes  developed.     It   is  a 


EDUCATION  IN  CONSTANTINOPLE.  801 

pleasure  to  hear,  as  I  have  several  times  done,  the  praises 
of  their  Alma  Mater  from  young  Bulgarians  who  have 
graduated  from  Robert  College,  and  been  long  enough  in 
the  world  to  know,  from  their  own  experiences,  what  its 
privileges  had  done  for  them,  —  what  was  its  full  power 
and  meaning  in  their  lives. 

That  these  American  colleges  have  made  a  great  im- 
pression on  this  part  of  the  world,  and  that  their  moral 
power  is  felt,  could  scarcely  be  more  clearly  demonstrated 
than  by  the  fact  that  an  address  by  the  President  of 
Robert  College,  on  the  "Nature  and  Object  of  College 
Education,"  was  published  in  full  by  the  Armenian,  Bul- 
garian, and  Greek  newspapers,  as  well  as  by  the  English. 


After  repeated  and  somewhat  protracted  visits  to  Con- 
stantinople, my  fust  and  last  thought  of  it  is  ahvays  a 
pleasure  and  a  regret,  —  a  pleasure  from  the  recollection 
of  the  unequalled  natural  beauty  of  its  position  and  sur- 
roundings, and  a  regret  that  no  words  can  conjure  up  a 
satisfactory  picture  of  these. 

Not  long  ago  a  friend  asked  me,  "What  is  the  very 
pleasantest  thing  to  be  done  in  Constantinople? "  I 
involuntarily  answered,  "To  go  out  of  it  and  all  around 
it,"  as  the  delights  of  its  suburbs  and  the  excursions  to 
be  made  in  them  presented  themselves  to  my  recollec- 
tion. On  one  occasion,  being  detained  there  much  longer 
than  I  liad  plniiiu'd  to  stay,  I  had  an  oi)i)ortunity  to  sec 
what  I  had  not  found  time  for  in  ))rovious  visits;  and 
since  that  experience  tlie  mention  of  this  city  calls  up 
to  me  a  vision  of  lovoly  hindscapcs,  enchanting  watei's, 
Itfiuitifnl  gardens,  splendid  trees,  luxurious  vines,  and 
exquisite  flowers,  which  is  so  much  more  vivid  than  the 
vision  of  (illhy  streets,  detestable  wooden  houses,  and  le;in 
do'/s  tliiit  tliese  latter  are  quite  overshadowed. 


302  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

He  who  sees  but  the  usual  "  sights  "  of  this  strange  city 
loses  many  delightful  days  which  should  be  spent  at  the 
islands  of  the  Marmora,  and  in  visits  to  various  points  on 
both  shores  of  the  Bosphorus,  which  impress  one  again 
and  again  with  the  overflowing  loveliness  of  all  this 
neighborhood  of  villages  and  villas,  bordering  the  love- 
liest of  waters  and  overarched  by  the  most  charming  of 
skies. 

It  has  frequently  been  said  that  the  Turk  has  always 
regarded  himself  as  a  pilgrim  and  stranger  in  Europe, 
and  there  are  wise  men  who  believe  that  the  remaining 
days  of  his  pilgrimage  are  few.  However  this  may  be, 
and  whoever  may  succeed  him,  it  is  true  that  if  any  spot 
exists  on  earth  where  peace  and  good-will  to  men  should 
reign,  where  the  influences  of  Nature  should  develop 
all  that  is  lovely  and  elevating  to  mankind,  — poetry,  art, 
and  all  the  gentler  virtues  and  graces  of  human  life,  —  it 
is  in  and  around  this  city  of  Constantine,  which  for  nearly 
four  centuries  and  a  half  has  been  the  Home  of  the 
Sultans. 


University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

305  De  Neve  Drive  -  Parking  Lot  17  •  Box  951388 

LOS  ANGELES,  CALIFORNIA  90095-1388 

Return  this  material  to  the  library  from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 


AA    000  770  245    9 


